Hi Don.
On 01/07/2012 11:53 AM, "PDMcCripe@aol.com"
wrote:
We recently began
to experience intermittent failure of the old Dometic RM 3804 refrigerator,
indicative of an impending circuit board replacement or repair. However,
the problem has compounded in as much as I discovered also the failure of the
essential DC electrical power to the rear of the refrigerator. Replacing the
power source with an external 12 vdc battery restored operation to the
refrigerator. I'm unable to locate the fuse or other protective device for that
circuit in either the forward electrical bay or in any overhead compartments.
Does anyone have an idea where this seemingly easy-to-find item would reside in
a 1991 year/model PT40?
Mine is a 1995 BMC so we will not be a carbon copy.
The refer needs continuous power so the source should be
after the battery disconnect switch
before house and ignition master relays.
I believe the BMC feed point is adjacent to the charger/inverter on a post with
8 wires.
There are a few, but perhaps not the refer, circuit breakers in the road-side
basement as well.
They are "mount on the wall" type devices, not part of a bus bar
distribution array.
I'll know better when I finish cleaning up the connections before spring [I
have some corrosion].
The intermittent nature of your failure sounds a bit like mine.
My issue is with 15+ years of open connection block exposure to whatever.
The last straw was needing to hire a mechanic to find a bad connection on the
hydraulic pump for the levelers.
Now I have a "mission".
Protective devices also sometimes fail in this mode when they are the
self-reset type.
The worst-case failure might be vibration caused insulation failure for a wire
[tough to find and repair].
Also, back in
September and October I was searching for replacement faucet cartridges for my
shower/tub. All the responses I received referred me to Moen. Moen
however has denied ownership of the design I presented them in a photograph,
pointing out that Moen is plastic and my cartridge is all-metal. I'm
still searching. I can't declare with certainty that what I'm trying to
replace was an original part and it bears no manufacturer's name or number.
This particular installation is somewhat difficult to access by any approach
other than destructive.
I wonder if there is not some private rule in the plumbing industry to
not identify the make and model on the device itself?
My experience is like yours to the extent that my only solution was to take the
"guts" of the shower valve to a plumbing supply house for them to
match.
I'm certain I pay more there than in one of the box stores...
Heading for
Quartzsite in a week to join the Southwest Bluebirds and will continue the
search there.
Best of luck with your volt meter and pliers...
Skip