A DC Power Conundrum

[John Suter]

If you don't receive a better answer, try "trouble
shooting" the DC circuit with a good digital
voltmeter.

As you know, the circuit will require both a good
positive and a good negative from the same DC source;
and a break in either will prevent the circuit from
properly operating. I'd be especially suspicious of
the ground/negative side.

Additionally, if either the positive or negative
leads/wires possesses an unusual resistance, a drop in
the voltage may occur under load - which can occur
with corroded connections and/or too small gauge of
wire and too high current/amperage required by the
appliance - therefore, if you can't measure the
voltage under load and without load at the refrig
itself, measure the voltage at the hot lead of the
solenoid post at the same time as the refrig is
presumably operating, to determine if the voltage is
dropping under load. Voltage drop problems take a bit
of time to isolate and correct.

John Suter




--- bluebirdfitz wrote:

> My Dometic refrigerator on our 78FC 31 is currently
> getting its DC power from the genset
> battery. I am not really sure why, but I am trying
> to shift it to drawing on the house banks
> instead. There is a solenoid on the inside right of
> the genset tray. I found a hot lead on
> the solenoid post, but when I hook up the terminal
> that was on the genset battery post to
> the solenoid post the fridge won't turn on. Is
> there a difference in the power supply that I
> don't know about (and I'll admit, I don't know
> much!). Is there a better way to access the
> DC on the house banks?
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> John Fitz
> 78 FC31
> Maynard MA
>
>
>
>



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