Refrigerator help needed.

[Ralph L. Fullenwider]

Hi Troy:

It is time to clean the flue tube of rust and soot and also clean the
baffle that hangs in the flue tube.
Open the anti flame blow out cap on top of the flue tube. You will see a
bent wire hanging on the inside of the tube, pull the baffle out taking
care not to disturb the bend in the wire and wire brush the baffle. Then
you need a flue tube brush to clean the tube with. Sort of like running a
brush down the barrel of a rifle to clean it.
The baffle makes the rising heat swirl to evenly distribute the heat in the
proper proportions and the built up scale inside the tube prevents the heat
from causing the ammonia/water to boil at the proper temp causing the super
heated gas to rise to the evaporator and the water to separate and flow
back to the chamber.

It heats on electric because the heat transfer is to the out side of the
flue tube causing the above reaction.

Safe travels,

Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm



At 03:27 AM 8/10/2005 +0000, you wrote:
>The refrigerator is not cooling when operating on gas. It works fine
>when hooked up to electricity. I pulled the burner out and cleaned
>it, reinstalled. I also removed the vent cover on the roof to verify
>there was no blockage. I also brushed the fins while the roof cover
>was off. I have the wind shield off and the flame is all blue and
>looks to be burning the full length of the flame tube. The
>refrigerator is a Dometic RM1300. How long should it take to begin
>cooling? Are there other things to check? There is also a fan behind
>the refrigerator and when I turn the fan on at the galley panel should
>the fan be spinning or is thermostatically controlled?
>
>Troy, Waconia MN
>1983 FC33