no gas, no hot water

[mbulriss]

By now, you realize that you get a lot more responses when you
actually post your questions on the forum. Doesn't seem fair to
complain until then.

Since you have gotten several answers on the first three questions, I
will comment on the backup camera. You didn't realy indicate what's
wrong, so we'll start at ground zero. As Tom said, do you get a
television picture on the monitor when the key is off, but the monitor
is on? If so, then the monitor is functioning. If not, then it could
be either the tuner section or the tube section, which may be
repairable or not, but more probably time for a whole assembly change
to new system.

Based on the way you phrased your question, I'll assume that the
monitor works on TV but not on the backup camera when the key is on.
You can start debugging from the camera end or monitor end, but the
best first step might be to make sure you have 12V power at the
camera. If not, there's the first problem to fix. Once you have 12v
at the camera, see if you have a picture upfront. If not take the
output feed from the camera directly into the video input of a known
good TV to double check the camera. You will need a twist lock coax
connector (ethernet thin net?) to RCA converter plug for this
connection. Switch the TV to video input and see if you get a picture.
If not, bad camera. You can replace with virtually any 12v powered
camera, B/w or color as you wish - the monitor upfront is a color TV.
One caution on replacing the camera: if you get a very low light
camera with auto iris, you could get "white flaring" when exposed to
very bright sunlight. You then might need a polarizing filter to
allow the auto iris to compensate for the bright sunlight.

If you get a picture directly off the camera test, then you need to
test the coax run from the camera and the tuner input section. At the
front end, you can test the camera input to the tuner section in the
overhead bay over the driver by unscrewing the coax connector from the
camera in the back (that is on the upper right side of the tuner unit)
and directly feeding in a feed from a camcorder. You will need a RCA
to screw on coax converter plug. If you get a picture on the screen
from the camcorder with the key on and the tuner on, then the tuner
portion is OK. If not, then the coax input board on the tuner will
need need repair. Again, this assumes that the TV monitor worked in
the first step.

If everything worked up to now, the it is narrowed down to a bad coax
cable. At this point, you can test the coax run in two ways. You can
hook the camcorder into the camera end of the coax or hook up the
original camera again. Feed the coax end at the tuner into the video
of the small TV you were testing the camera with. Hooking it back up
to the known good monitor is also an option. With everything else
working, it almost has to be a bad coax run. If you get a picture on
this test, then there may have been some corrosion on the connectors
that has now been cleaned off by the various testing. If not, then it
is in fact the coax that is bad and needs to be replaced.

Good luck
Mike Bulriss
83 PT40 "Stagecoach" - For Sale
91 PT40 "Texas Minivan" - currently at Buckhorn Lake Resort in
Kerrville, TX

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "putneyflash"
wrote:
> I have a 1983 fc-35, I bought after hearing so much about
> wanderlodge.
> Seems like I have more things not working than i do working.
> I have several problems
> 1. No gas I gave narrowed it down to the sloenid valve, but can't get
> it to reset, it won't move at all. Any ideas.?
> 2. no hot water i have voltage to the junction box, but no amp draw,
> any one ever replace an heating element in one of these heaters>
> 3. someone said run two air intake lines out the front to get cool
> intake air and more volume.How?
> 4. Whats the larest on the backup camera? anyone got one fixed or
> replaced recently
>
> thanks for your help
> re brake