refrigerator problems

[George Lowry]

Getting into the middle of this - I just checked the Amana 19 Cu Ft
refer that came standard in my coach. It has the ice maker/ice water
and is frost free. The data plate says it uses 9.8 amps @ 120 volts.
We have never had a problem while traveling or when parked, though we
do have a large battery bank which would be required in ANY all
electric coach. I know that we can cut energy consumption by turning
off the frost free feature but, the boss likes it.

BTW, in our converted coach, we had an electric Norcold 8 Cu Ft refer
and it only pulled 2.5 amps @ 120 volts and 9 amps at 12 volts. We
drove it for over ten years without any problems also.

BTW, we spend some time in Quartzsite boondocking as well as other
places. It can be done.

George Lowry
'95 WBDA 4203
Spearfish, SD Currently in NORCAL for Dr Appointments.

Tim Hannink wrote:

> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Tom Warner
> wrote:
>
>>Tim that would be nice if it were true but its not. You are
>
> quoting
>
>>the energy star propoganda. It actually pulls over 1800 watts when
>>the compressor starts. The hotter it got the more the compressor
>>would run and it would quickly run your batteries down if you were
>>not connected to a power source or on generator. The RV models are
>>much more efficient having better insulation and more efficient
>>methods of cooling.
>
>
> Please don't accuse me of disseminating false information unless you
> have something besides your own opinion to back up your statement.
>
> Yes, a refrigerator uses a large amount of starting current but the
> average 18 cu ft frost-free fridge uses 750-watts when running and
> it runs approximately 1/3 of the time it is plugged in.
>
> Information on the power usage of appliances is available all over
> the internet from government sources, power utilities and appliance
> manufacturers, so take your pick and do your own research.
>
>
>>By the way how do you secure a regular refrigerator so it does not
>>come flying out in a hard maneuver?
>
>
> The same way an RV refrigerator is secured. Install a piece of angle
> channel to the top and sides of the fridge and screw it to the
> opening. I would also add additional rigid insulation to the walls
> of the refrigerator compartment to fill in the gap between the sides
> of the fridge and the compartment walls.
>
> Good luck
>
> Tim Hannink
> Winter Park, FL
> 1981 FC-33SB
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