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New Building
11-18-2005, 13:37
Post: #5
New Building
Hi Howard,
I have built three buildings for my Birds. Actually, I over-engineer my
workshops so the Bluebird will fit inside.
First, I would be sure whatever plans you put together meet or exceed
any applicable codes. I always went to meet the building inspectors and they
have always been very helpful when they realize that you want to do it "really
right". You pay your taxes, let them answer some of your questions. (Spoken by a
career gov't employee!)
I built my own forms and used a pier and beam design with the anchor
bolts for steel members cast in the concrete pour. This building (my last one)
had 3/4" x 24" anchor bolts for the mid span columns. For rebar I used #3
(3/8") on 14 inch centers everywhere the Bird would not be sitting. For the
"vehicle lane" I used #5 on 6" centers just in case I had several jackstands
instead of eight tires holding the weight. The beams around the perimeter have
#4 rebar 6" apart horizontally and vertically. I used a "keylock metal
screed-type partition" for all my joints with the rebar actually passing thru
it. I used 3000 PSI concrete at least 6 " thick.
But, the best suggestion I can make is to be sure you put conduit (1
1/2" or 2") from the load center to all over the shop. I have it running to the
center of each wall, 12" from each corner, to each column, and whereevr you can
imagine you'll have an appliance or machine. Also consider several floor drains.
I made three 12" X 12" boxes in the floor with a drain and a hose bib in each
one. Also, you might put a 50 Amp receptical at each end of the building so you
could plug it in, no matter which way you pull it in. I am still adding circuits
and still have some empty conduit.
If you are going to put a service pit (I really wish I had!) countersink
waterproof lights and recepticals in the walls and put several drains in the
floor (with sediment baskets). That way you can use a pressure washer in the
pit and easily clean it up when you are finished. Also, put a 3"X3" steel angle
around the edge to keep things from rolling in the pit. You could also put a 2"
ledge inside so you could put in framed sections of expanded metal to keep us
old blisters from stumbling into the pit! If you did several 3 foot sections
they would be easy to lift or slide over each other. You could probably get away
with steps in only one end that would allow you to go down under the rear end as
part of your normal "preflight". Your idea of having it 12 feet long is good
because most of what your are going to be working on or looking at is in the
rear. You can swing it around to grease the front and check the brakes and
generator.
See how easy it is to get friends to help you spend money!!!

"Howard O. Truitt" wrote:
I'm getting ready to build a storage building for my 86 8V92 PT40. The
previous owner had kept it in a barn on his farm. I would appreciate
some advise on the concrete pad. I plan on building a 16'x56' building
with 14'x14' roll up doors on each end. I had one builder say to
compact the dirt well and pour 4" of 2000# concrete with fiber the
other says I need to pour 6" of 3000# concrete with wire.
I also plan on putting in a 42" wide by 42" deep by 12' long service
pit.
I would appreciate your imput.
Howard Truitt
Camilla, Ga.
86 8V92 PT40






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Messages In This Thread
New Building - Howard O. Truitt - 11-18-2005, 11:05
New Building - ronmarabito2002 - 11-18-2005, 11:36
New Building - Wallace Craig - 11-18-2005, 11:51
New Building - Blair - 11-18-2005, 12:22
New Building - Robert Johannesen - 11-18-2005 13:37
New Building - Gregory OConnor - 11-18-2005, 17:08
New Building - dspithaler@... - 11-18-2005, 21:31
New Building - John Suter - 11-18-2005, 23:44
New Building - Blair - 11-19-2005, 02:08
New Building - Richard Hayden - 11-19-2005, 14:43
New Building - Dan Darst - 11-19-2005, 15:52
New Building - Howard O. Truitt - 11-20-2005, 08:06
New Building - Richard Hayden - 11-22-2005, 15:22



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