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Grounding and Thermostat - '90SP36
11-30-2005, 00:14
Post: #3
Grounding and Thermostat - '90SP36
No such thing as too much "grounding" for any of the
Birds.

Run #10 gauge, THHN or so (Home Depot, Lowes)
"stranded," copper wire, direct from battery ground to
coach front (I have run one down each side to join at
front, and in unique color for visual spotting along
the route, but two is probably overkill). The THHN
has gasoline and oil-resistant, outer covering in
addition to regular insulated covering. Extra coating
lasts a few years, which is a few more than the
regular, at nominal extra cost. Stranded wire, versus
solid, permits better "flexing" over time without
breakage. Terminate the ground(s) at a buss-bar or
terminal strip (Radio Shack) and label as "12V ground"
to avoid any potential confusion with 110V circuitry.

"Connect away" to your hearts content; you will see
instant improvements.

John Suter


> I can't help with the dash ground.
> Don
> 89 SP 36'
> Butler, PA
>
> Anybody have an Idea of how hard it is to change
> thermostat(s)
> on a '90 3208 and perhaps a layout of their
> location?
> Also, Is there a central grounding point for the
> dash gauges,
> and where is it located?
>
> Thanks,
> Chuck Harrison
> 90 WLSP36
> Akron, Ohio
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




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Messages In This Thread
Grounding and Thermostat - '90SP36 - williamcharrison - 11-29-2005, 06:37
Grounding and Thermostat - '90SP36 - dspithaler@... - 11-29-2005, 07:20
Grounding and Thermostat - '90SP36 - John Suter - 11-30-2005 00:14
Grounding and Thermostat - '90SP36 - williamcharrison - 11-30-2005, 08:06



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