Hydro-Hot systems

[George Lowry]

Having lived with the Aqua Hot system for over ten years and having
installed one and replaced another, I think I might be able to shed some
light on the subject. For background: I installed the complete system
in the GM bus conversion the wife and I designed and built. That was
installed in the early nineties and worked flawlessly as long as we had
the coach. The '95 BB we now have had an Aqua hot installed when we got
it. Obviously it was left in cold country, unwinterized, and the
domestic water heater coil split. I elected to replace the unit with a
rebuilt unit from Vehicle Systems.

As for annual maintenance: Vehicle Systems recommends that the
"nozzle/filter" be replaced annually. I chose to replace on condition
and found that it needed replacement about every three years. The newer
ones have a filter screen that can be cleaned, reducing cost. I carry a
couple with me just in case. The burner can does need replacing
periodically. I had to replace mine, in the GM bus, once in over ten
years of operation.

My current coach is all electric - no propane. There are pluses and
minuses to either system. I have to either be plugged in or be running
the generator. I really need 50 amp power - not always easy to find. I
have a cheater that I built so that I can use two 30 outlets or a 30 and
a 20 to power the two legs of the coach. Now the wife really loves the
large (19 cu. ft.) refrigerator which has ice and water in the door as
well as being frost free; But it is a power hog. Makes boon docking
difficult as the generator needs to be running most of the time. She is
adapting to using the two burner electric cook top.

I firmly feel that the hydronic heat is much nicer than the forced hot
air. In any newer coach, we will have Hydronic heat. As far as heating
domestic hot water, we have never run out. True, the Aqua Hot has a
larger tank and a few other items that the Hydro Hot does not. Both are
quite adequate and I believe that I would use the Hydro Hot if I were in
your shoes. I would definitely keep the electric toe kick heaters. We
use them exclusively when heating requirements are low, only kicking on
the Aqua Hot when more heat capacity is needed. The electric element in
the Aqua Hot was designed to be used for low heat requirements and as a
backup for the diesel burner. BB hooked theirs up so that both could be
used at the same time. Vehicle Systems originally designed it so that
they would be used separately. (BTW, I had one of the original units.)

You are looking at quite a bit of work which will include the removal of
the propane systems but installation of the hydronic heating system
which will require running water lines for all the heat exchanger
units. I used 1/2" copper but BB used rubber hoses which should be
easier to retrofit.

Cost wise, I think it will cost closer to $8,000 for material by the
time you are done, not counting the refer and cook top. If I can be of
any help, let me know.

George Lowry
'95 WBDA 4203
Spearfish, SD Currently at TTN in Soledad Canyon, CA heading south. Be
in Palm Springs next week, then to the WMHA rally in Indio.


John Suter wrote:

>Hi Roger,
>
>
>
>>As part of the refurb on my '84 PT40WL, I am
>>considering removing
>>all the propane heat, refrigerator, hot water heater
>>and cooktop
>>systems along with the electric heaters throughout
>>the coach and
>>installing the hydro-Hot system.
>>
>>
>
> WOW that is a mouthful. In our (wife and I)
>opinion, one of the best upgrades BB made in late 90's
>was to Aqua-Hot system; however, it appears to require
>regular annual attention to diesel burner section and
>every 2-3 yr replacement of the mixing system "guts;"
>shouldn't be a problem for you mechanically, but a
>cost consideration.
>
> How about considering the possibility of leaving the
>refrig, cooktop, and elect heaters as is?
> Understand the primary heating for the
>Aqua-hot/Hydro-hot is electric and the diesel only
>fires when the elect can't maintain the required
>temps. Second, understand the diesel burner is only
>50,000BTU so sufficient hot water (for showering) is
>very dependent upon the incoming water temp and its
>required temp rise; AND that same burner has to
>generate the heat for coach heating. E.g. Even with
>cool, not cold, outside temps, you will not get a long
>hot shower without shutting down the coach heat
>temporarily. Therefore, you will "want" to keep the
>elect boost heaters; even the newer models with their
>double insulated glass, have at least 2 to augment.
>
>
>
>>This would free up some space, remove a lot of
>>weight and electric
>>circuits as well as provide updated heat for the
>>coach.
>>
>>
>
> Doubt you'll net any weight savings and don't recall
>size of the propane tank in your model, but with
>refrig backup and cooktop, would likely only need a
>40gal or so.
> We'd also have "to sit a spell and chat" before I'd
>be convinced about "removing a lot of electric
>circuits" - the numerous branches and loops for at
>least 3 zones are likely to require more circuits, not
>fewer.
>
>
>
>>The deeper I get into this project the more I
>>realize the massive
>>nature of the Blue Bird coach. This baby is like a
>>tank.
>>Everything is super-duty in design and function.
>>
>>
>
> That's one reason we fools keep on buyin' 'em.
>
>
>
>>What are your opinions on this conversion. The
>>Hydro-Hot is about
>>$5,500.
>>
>>
>
> Probably can't cost justify, but it would give you a
>project to be proud of having added, and some
>"bragging rights" among the rest of us.
>
>
>
>
>>As a retired ATP and long time A&P and IA I
>>have dertainly
>>have the time, the tools, the shop and the ability
>>to do the
>>conversion. Just looking for wiser heads to input
>>their thoughts on
>>this. Thanks,
>>
>>
>
> Boy, that's unfairly puttin' on the pressure.
>
>John Suter, (ret: CFII etc.)
>2000LXi and prior
>
>
>
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