auxilliary air compressor maintenance

[John Suter]

Oh, I'm sorry, Ron, to hear your 110V compressor bit
the dust.

--- luckyron1 wrote:
> Hey John,
> As it turned out, the aux comp stopped running
> yesterday. We are
> hooked up to shorepower, the slide is out, and the
> 12 volt
> compressor is functioning normally when the toilet
> flushes; and a
> little extra from time to time during the day for
> the other non-
> engine related air-acuated devices. I have a new
> Gast Compressor
> (same model) on the way to us and will probably have
> it by the
> middle of next week; will have it installed by a
> local RV Tech. In
> the interim I want to make sure we don't burn out
> the 12 volt
> compressor.

I take it you do not have a switch currently
installed for the 12V compressor. You can purchase
any brand of single pole, on/off switch, rated at 12
volts or more, and 15 amps or more, from NAPA or Radio
Shack. Personally, I would choose one with "screw
type" terminals, to make the electrical connections
easy on yourself.
Although the switch doesn't need a "through metal"
mounting location or bracket, if one is readily
available I'd use it and purchase the type switch that
will protrude thru it. If not, the switch can simply
become an "in line" type, lying loose. Simply cut one
of the two wires running to the 12V compressor at
least 2 or more inches from the motor, strip
approximately 1/2 inch of insulation from each of the
newly cut ends, and attach each end to one of the
switch screw terminals. If you create the "lying
loose" model, tape everything securely with electrical
tape, leaving the throw free to move.

> I'm thinking that to be on the safe
> side that we should
> probably put the slide in?;

The slide is hydraulically driven and the seals can
be inflated by starting the engine, so no need to
worry either way.

> turn off the aux comp
> breaker;

I would turn off the dash switch and the breaker as
you do not know what caused the electrical failure of
the 110V motor. A high resistance problem could
continue to feed 110V to the motor and, although a
small probability of heat/fire, why take any chance.

> open both
> the gray and black water valves; cease using the
> stair-well
> cover....

No need again, as the engine air compressor can be
used to provide any air necessary by simply starting
the engine and letting the air build.

> In the mean time I have overcome some of my early
> alzheimers and
> recalled that my air toilet wouldn't work when my 12
> volt died about
> 2 yrs. ago, so it would follow that the 2
> compressors weren't
> plumbed together as some birders have had done. I'm
> wondering how
> to do it or have it done. Do you have a diagram or
> something?

I wouldn't want to give detailed advice via the net
without seeing exactly what you have now. (BB seldom
seems to create more than one the same LOL).
Shouldn't be that costly to have knowledgeable shop
re-plumb the system for you. I'd estimate 1/2 hour or
so to determine what you now have, and another 1/2 to
1 hour to join all together plus whatever
adjustments/modifications to pressure regulators are
necessary to get all to work peacefully with one
another. Remember to advise, you are trying to
connect engine air, 110V air and 12V air so all work
every air device.

Hope this helps more than confuses.

John Suter



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