Battey Banks, how much is enough?/ Wash State WL get together.

[Tom Warner]

In my opinion you are courting disaster installing Absorptive glass
mat (AGM) batteries (or any batteries for that matter) in the same
compartment with a charger/inverter even if it is vented since it is
not true that they never give off gas. If during the charging cycle
you exceed 14 VDC, (and the Heart 2500 does that) , you can destroy
the AGM batteries due to thermal runnaway, causing at its worse the
escape of gel and binder material from the vents. You can also
produce the same environment when you install the batteries near a
charger/inverter that produces heat, and the 2500 produces lots of it
in warm weather. just my thoughts on the matter.

tom Warner
1982 FC35
Vernon Center,NY



At 09:41 AM 3/12/2006, you wrote:
>I have a rear bath FC, results in greater compartment
>capacity. Installed a 2500 inverter/charger with 4 6v AGM in the
>compartment forward of the rear axle. AGMs are pricey but I'm told
>they work in a non vented compartment and as I haven't blown any
>thing up yet I guess that's true. Replaced the 4 6vs with truck
>cranking 12v in the RF compartment. Jeff Milller is very familiar
>with my electrical modifications and he could comment on the particulars.
>Mike Hohnstein
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: hsaddock
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 7:32 AM
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Battey Banks, how much is
> enough?/ Wash State WL get together.
>
>
> Tony:
> While I agree with you that a set of starting only batteries would
> be better, most early through late 80's FC's were equipped with only
> the 4 six volt bank in the front left and a separate battery in the
> generator tray to start the generator. This configuration has
> worked really quite well for the last 20-30 years for most FC
> owners, especially if you spend the majority of your time where
> shore power is available. It does require more thought regarding
> battery management and care not to run your main bank down below its
> ability to start the engine or you will have to wait for the
> generator and chargers to re-charge your batteries. (shouldn't
> anyway to prolong battery life) However, if you spend a lot of time
> dry camping (especially if you camp off the beaten path) or if would
> like a third level of battery redundancy, a starting battery is a
> good addition. But as Frank stated, you give up storage space that
> is MUCH needed on a FC33 and some of the folks who have "stuck" the
> starting OR extra main batteries in a lower compartment have not
> done so with a lot of planning. This could lead to a number of
> problems - 1) lead/acid batteries give off hydrogen, especially as
> they re-charge - very explosive - if kept in a closed environment
> and an ignition source becomes present (compartment light switch,
> match, items clanging around in the compartment) big explosion -
> these batteries really need to be kept in a location with free air
> movement, 2) how do you keep them watered if they are way back in a
> compartment, 3) how do you connect them to the coach electrical
> system - they need to be recharged via the alternator but isolated
> from the rest of the batteries or you will not have any redundancy
> as they will all go dead together. (In your case, I would not leave
> the battery selector switch in the both position as normal operation
> as both banks will go dead together defeating the primary reason for
> having separate banks)
>
> All this said, I would like to install a set of starting batteries
> (a third battery bank) as I do a fair amount of dry camping and
> would like assurance that I can start the coach whenever I want to
> if I mess-up and run the main battery bank too low. I would
> appreciate any info you can share on how your starting bank is
> installed especially if it address's items 1,2 &3 above. Thanks!
>
> Harry Saddock
> 83FC35
> South Windsor, CT
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Anthony Louis Pawley
> wrote:
> >
> > Ahhhh, but I disagree strongly my fellow FC33 colleague. This
> is the first I've heard of FC's only having 6 volt batteries. My
> FC33 has four 6 volts, and one 12volt 8D battery. I really like
> this set up. Above the four 6 volts in the left front compartment
> thee is a selector switch for either side, or both, which I usually
> leave on the latter.
> >
> > Its helped, and saved my ass a few times. When I bought my WL
> in 2003, litle did I know, but the batteries(along with alot of
> other things) were on their last legs. It didn't help when the
> alternator went out when I was living in Flagstaff, but having that
> extra 8D on the right front compartment sure has helped.
> >
> > By the Way, does anyone on the list know who owneed my coach
> previously? I bought it in Mt. Vernon, Wash. and the dealer said
> the couple lived in Blaine. I know there is a couple here on the
> list who have a FC35 and live in Blaine, would they or anyone else
> in Wa State have a clue? The FMCA plate on the front is in the low
> forty thousand digit if that helps.
> >
> > Also to Jon "Bremerton Rebel Bird", and Dave Beatty. I would
> very much like to mmet you guya at the Tokeland get together, but I
> already have that weekend tentatively planned for Colo Springs
> unfortunately. Haven't decided whether to take the whole week off
> and drive the Bird out there or just fly yet, but I really regret
> not making it out to the coast to see you guys!
> >
> > Have a good one!!!!
> >
> > Sincerely, Tony Pawley
> > 1979 FC33 with 3208T
> > FullTimin' it in Ballard for two and a
> half years now!
> > Frank wrote:
> >
> > In my mind
> > it
> > would be a waste of battery capacity to dedicate a pair of batts
> > to
> > soley engine start.
> >
> > frank
> > 85FC33
> > Woodbridge, va.
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Yahoo! Mail
> > Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
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