Webasto Clicks then stops

[GregOConnor]

The controller worked perfect after I did two repairs on it. one solder joint was incomplete and the other joint was not soldered at all. I cycled the webasto for 5 hours while I worked in the yard and all worked well. My unsettling concern is what exactly did I fix,,,, and was that dumb luck actually the the failure issue. ,, I dig holes for a living and don't trust my electronic skills, (Tim vehemently conferred) , plus I plan to sell the bus and want it working with a better degree of professionalism so I shipped the box off to be rebuilt.
I called Frerichs Electronics and asked to hear what he actual did to the boards and he confirmed that the components are usually good but he re soldered 30 points and usually replaces several diodes that prove to be fail points. He sounds like an honest and nice guy. the charge is $330.00 with a core or $100.00 more if you dont send a core. Phone: 308-440-5154
Email: frerichs@rcom-ne.com. He commented that these boards prove to have robust components but poor craftsmanship when assembled. He was not surprised that one pin was not soldered and commented that it probably made halfway good contact until there was a spark that left carbon dust. I may put in in new motor bearings on the blower after his remark. I wish I had a clamp on dc amp meter to check the dc draw and compare it to engineer spec.

One other concern I have is the adjustable combustion air intake. that intake is under the blower motor and not vented outside the stainless box. I guess one function of having it in the enclosed box is that it removes warm air from the box,, sucking new air from gaps in the cover .... blowing it out the burn tube with the exhaust. I guess it also takes cooler air over the fuelpump, blower, gears and fuel solenoid while it gets fed to the fire. NO where have I found how to adjust the adjustable intake?? I did find a paragraph 3.3 which said it regulates combustion air at the intake. air quantity to fuel quantity dependent on nozzle size but no where have I found a reference on where to place it for my 3.5 nozzle. I note that my adjustment screw is lose and the damper was moved. It may be that this is causing a bit of smoke I see at the start of flame?? I need to look at where it is set now and open it a bit to see if it reduces the start up smoke.
Here are some images of what is in the box
to open place the box in a vise upside down resting on the side tabs very loose. tap on the black lip with a clean cut flat plate then gently pull the board out. the board is riding on a aluminum track inside of the box.



one cool attribute of this forum and server is the entire 4 meg image file is stored. you can view the file completely and have a close look at the un repaired solder side of the circuit board and find the un soldered pin. 1-click on the image to open it in the forum page then 2- click again with right mouse button and chose 'open image in new tab' or view image, or some thing like that depending on the browser you use. 3- go to the new tab then 4-click the mag glass or the + on the pointer to open the full image. you will then be able to scroll using the side page tab-sliders. (hint bottom left up )

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The image of the pump was loaded by accident. this is a pump on a weed chem sprayer I took to order a replacement pump or mounting parts. I decided to leave it up to show that I am a progressive goat-roaping rancher. . .... Notice the bailing wire holding it on is stainless steel.