docking lights

[pattypape]

Yep,good info.,

I think Jay is correct about the 50 watts vs 100 watts.
The tractor light is about $8.00.
The more you spend the more you get.
Position the bulb socket to get the correct light beam angle.
And rotate the bulb to align the grid lines horizontally
and vertically. This just makes it look better.

Bill 88 FC Michigan



--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Jay Darst"
wrote:
>
> Scott,
>
> I changed one of my landing lights also. Can be a bit of a job!
>
> First remove the screws surrounding the fixture, the ones with
heads
> looking at you while standing beside your Bird. These are a
phillips
> screw threw the fixture and thenb the sheet metal.
>
> Once you have the fixture loose, snip the wires and bring the
> fixture inside on the work bench. You will be re connecting the
> wires with a male/female fully insulated plugs. This way you'll be
> able to remove the fixture in the future without shortening the
> already too short wires.
>
> On the bench with the fixture, you'll see 3 3/8" head self taping
> screws holding a retainer that holds the eye ball in its place.
> Remove the 3 screws and then push the Eyeball out of its fixture.
>
> Now comes the hard part. You need to find the seam were the front
> and back half of the eyeball meet and split it. this can be a
chore
> due to the massive amount of white corrosion which torments
aluminum.
>
> I ended up using a hacksaw to cut the joint a bit, maybe an inch
> long gash. Did so on the bottom side so in the future the cut
would
> drain any moisture from the eyeball. Once the inch long cut is
> opened, stick a screw driver/prybar in the gas and pry it apart.
>
> once its apart, you'll be able to change the bulb. I actually
broke
> the bulb to remove it from the eye. That allowed me to remove the
> rubber ring that actually holds the bulb in place and clean the
> rubber ring plus treat it with silicone grease which will keep the
> rubber ring pliable for years to come.
>
> The correct bulb is
>
> < http://www.topbulb.com/find/Product_Description.asp?
> intProductID=42032 >
>
> Its more money than the farm tractor bulbs, but ihas the correct
> beam spread ofr the purpose and it is 100watt insted of the farm
> tractor 50 watter.
>
> More questions, call me 217-971-0036cell
>
> Jay Darst
> 85PT40
> Springfield, IL where we are preparing to head for S. Padre
Island,
> TX on Christmas day. My family in 85PT40 and brother Dan and wife
> Barb in 86FC35RB... yea baby!!!
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Scott Forman"
> <sforman@r...> wrote:
> >
> > Ralph,
> >
> > Can you elaborate on how the bulb comes out? I spent the better
> half
> > of a day trying to figure it out and couldn't...but then again,
I
> am
> > not the handiest guy in the world, either. I still have one
> burned
> > out I'd like to replace.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > The eyeball is actually aluminum. It builds up a coating of
> white
> > > crystalline between the two halves that is hard to break lose.
I
> > use the
> > > rubber handle of a hammer to tap all the way around to break
the
> > surface
> > > tension but not the part, then soak it lime away for an hour
or
> so
> > then use
> > > a penetrating oil and let it seep into the hair line
separation
> > before
> > > using the putty knife then screwdriver on both sides at once
to
> > start it
> > > apart. In the front half of the housing, there are two slots
on
> > each side
> > > that will allow the old bulb to be turned and come out then re
> > install the
> > > same way, with the rubber gaskets, slide the halves back
> together
> > then
> > > using a rubber hammer to seat the halves tightly.
> > >
> > > Safe travels,
> > >
> > > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > > Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> > > http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm
> > >
> > > At 02:23 PM 12/21/2005 +0000, you wrote:
> > >
> > > >NAPA has docking lights part # 4411.
> > > >It is a farm tractor headlight.
> > > >
> > >
> >
>