auxilliary air compressor maintenance

[R J]

Thanks again John,

Talked to Mike at BB and got a schematic of how to do
it. Will send it to you if you want it for your file.
It looks like something that an experienced RV tech
should be able to follow.

Not relative to the schematic, but, I'm left
wondering why they don't have the aux comp on an
inverter too?

--- John Suter wrote:

> Oh, I'm sorry, Ron, to hear your 110V compressor bit
> the dust.
>
> --- luckyron1 wrote:
> > Hey John,
> > As it turned out, the aux comp stopped running
> > yesterday. We are
> > hooked up to shorepower, the slide is out, and the
> > 12 volt
> > compressor is functioning normally when the toilet
> > flushes; and a
> > little extra from time to time during the day for
> > the other non-
> > engine related air-acuated devices. I have a new
> > Gast Compressor
> > (same model) on the way to us and will probably
> have
> > it by the
> > middle of next week; will have it installed by a
> > local RV Tech. In
> > the interim I want to make sure we don't burn out
> > the 12 volt
> > compressor.
>
> I take it you do not have a switch currently
> installed for the 12V compressor. You can purchase
> any brand of single pole, on/off switch, rated at 12
> volts or more, and 15 amps or more, from NAPA or
> Radio
> Shack. Personally, I would choose one with "screw
> type" terminals, to make the electrical connections
> easy on yourself.
> Although the switch doesn't need a "through metal"
> mounting location or bracket, if one is readily
> available I'd use it and purchase the type switch
> that
> will protrude thru it. If not, the switch can
> simply
> become an "in line" type, lying loose. Simply cut
> one
> of the two wires running to the 12V compressor at
> least 2 or more inches from the motor, strip
> approximately 1/2 inch of insulation from each of
> the
> newly cut ends, and attach each end to one of the
> switch screw terminals. If you create the "lying
> loose" model, tape everything securely with
> electrical
> tape, leaving the throw free to move.
>
> > I'm thinking that to be on the safe
> > side that we should
> > probably put the slide in?;
>
> The slide is hydraulically driven and the seals
> can
> be inflated by starting the engine, so no need to
> worry either way.
>
> > turn off the aux comp
> > breaker;
>
> I would turn off the dash switch and the breaker
> as
> you do not know what caused the electrical failure
> of
> the 110V motor. A high resistance problem could
> continue to feed 110V to the motor and, although a
> small probability of heat/fire, why take any chance.
>
> > open both
> > the gray and black water valves; cease using the
> > stair-well
> > cover....
>
> No need again, as the engine air compressor can be
> used to provide any air necessary by simply starting
> the engine and letting the air build.
>
> > In the mean time I have overcome some of my early
> > alzheimers and
> > recalled that my air toilet wouldn't work when my
> 12
> > volt died about
> > 2 yrs. ago, so it would follow that the 2
> > compressors weren't
> > plumbed together as some birders have had done.
> I'm
> > wondering how
> > to do it or have it done. Do you have a diagram
> or
> > something?
>
> I wouldn't want to give detailed advice via the
> net
> without seeing exactly what you have now. (BB
> seldom
> seems to create more than one the same LOL).
> Shouldn't be that costly to have knowledgeable shop
> re-plumb the system for you. I'd estimate 1/2 hour
> or
> so to determine what you now have, and another 1/2
> to
> 1 hour to join all together plus whatever
> adjustments/modifications to pressure regulators are
> necessary to get all to work peacefully with one
> another. Remember to advise, you are trying to
> connect engine air, 110V air and 12V air so all work
> every air device.
>
> Hope this helps more than confuses.
>
> John Suter
>
>
>
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