solenoid acting up

[Michael]

Thanks Greg for the Youtube link is good, very helpful, I'll need to watch
more of them.

I have four solar panels and felt its safer for the electrical system to be
shut down for extended periods of time.

I have to trace out some wires and figure out why my clocks and AC have no
12volt.

Thanks Michael


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "timvasqz" wrote:
>
> Mike why would you want to turn it off? It sounds like 'on' it is one of the
phantom loads (a constant or continuous duty solenoid). You could bypass the
electrical gateway by disabling the switch input to the solenoid and connecting
the two heavy duty (12v when powered) wires together. Once completed, the AT
switch provides no theft protection and the items are always enabled.
> If the only reason you turn the at switch to "protect" is to remove the amp
draw and battery use, just remove the device???? I never use my at switch for
theft protection.
>
> voltage will not show battery consumption.Voltage is a measure of ability.
amp is a measure of volume. heat will prove consumption of amp hours.
>
> One other test of the solenoid would be continuity . remove both cables
(large power) and test the continuity threw the input and output of the
solenoid. ohms at infinity would be the reading you want when the solenoid is
off and 0 is the measure of good continuity . the trick is to make sure you
maintain 12 volts and ground to the switch side of the solenoid.
>
> When I make changes and additions I document them in a spiral notebook for the
NO. these notes more useful then documented oil changes and oil samples which
are only good for false security, higher resale and excuses after the fact.
>
> video for continuity testing
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wslo0QSrs58
>
> Greg of Tim&Greg
> 94ptca
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Michael" <michael3536@> wrote:
> >
> > Wayne,
> > I put the positive lead to heavy cable while still connected at the
solenoid and the neg to ground/body. Positioned it to view through the
windshield, turn the switch off and still had 3 to 4 volts at the cable.
> >
> > I then disconnected the cable and tried the switch with the meter still
hooked up to the same heavy terminal end at the solenoid and same ground and the
solinoid worked fine.
> >
> > What other tests should I do to find out where that low voltage is coming
from?
> >
> >
> > about the ac
> > My AC does have 120vac and also call for 12vdc. I have a clicker instead
of wired control I'v got photos of the schematic but have a hard time posting
them..
> >
> > Do I have to be careful hooking up a circuit tracer that sends a signal
though the wires? Any pointers for tracing wires back to fuses? These are small
wires I trying to find.
> >
> > Thanks for your insights-- Michael
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wayne Kotila wrote:
> > >
> > > Michael:
> > >
> > > Do you mean that when you have one of the heavy guage wires taken off the
solenoid relay that you no longer have an apparent stray voltage reading at the
smaller relay coil terminals?
> > > I would suspect that the unusual symptoms your having with other dash
components may be related like you said but your bedroom clock probably isn't.
Wanderlodges have so many different fuse/breaker panels and use a mix of
protective devises from the self resetting breakers to glass fuses. In your
bedroom panels make shure you check to see if your getting 12 volt power past
all of your breakers and fuses. Also does your coach have two 12 volt power main
shut off switchs? On my PT40 one of the main 12 volt shut off switchs is in an
overhead living room cabinet and it shuts off power to the front and rear clocks
and a few other things, you may want to also check that shut off if you have it.
> > > When you say you have no 12 volt power to your rear carrier AC unit, what
do you mean? If you are talking about the bedroom roof or central air
conditioner, those run on 120 volts ac only, (there is no 12 volt control
circuit on them).
> > > Wayne
> > > 1985PT40
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ________________________________
> > > From: Michael <michael3536@>
> > > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Tuesday, June 9, 2009 9:44:38 PM
> > > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: solenoid acting up
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Wayne
> > >
> > > I may have not worded my question right---
> > >
> > > I am having trouble with the Anti/Theft switch on my dash that controls a
solenoid/relay in the lower generator fan bay. It is a 200 Amp sp st
Cutler-Hammer solenoid that when turned off still has 3 or 4 volts running
thought it to the dash. When that happens my step extend switch light flashes
and some switch chatters and only completely shuts of when I activate a switch
like the heated mirrors with a large draw.
> > >
> > > When the cable is disconnected and a meter is attached the solenoid works
every time showing 12vdc and the o or .01 vdc when off.
> > >
> > > The solenoid either has feedback? or is broken? I'm not that swift on
electricity.
> > >
> > > I have 3 components that are not working and may not even be connected, My
dash clock, bedroom clock and I've lost 12vdc to my rear bedroom Carrier AC
unit. I think my bedroom clock and AC unit may be connected They seem to be
powed from the old dometic control wires.
> > >
> > > Thanks for your help and I apologize for not being clearer.....
> > >
> > > Michael
> > >
> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "Michael" <michael3536@ ...>
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > How do you test a test solenoid?
> > > >
> > > > my A/T switch does not completely shut off the power to the dash
> > > >
> > > > I got out my meter and performed these tests;
> > > >
> > > > #1 found it had 3.8 to 4.5 volts still passing through the relay when
> > > > switched off and went to "0" only when I activated another switch with a
> > > > larger draw like the (mirror heat) The step extend switch just changes
> > > > the tone of a low voltage chatter.
> > > >
> > > > #2 with load wire disconnected from the switch, it seemed to
> > > > work consistently, showing only .01 or.02 VDC on the meter.
> > > >
> > > > I'm not sure what that means or how I should really test it.... why
> > > > would it work without a load?
> > > >
> > > > I've checked temperature of the relay when left on and gets up to 120+
> > > > degrees. Is that normal? I hate to lose all that energy to heat.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for any help
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

[timvasqz]

The two issues may not be related. the ac 12 volts may be a problem at the dash
ac control switch or relay that the switch trips.

Greg of Tim&Greg
94ptca

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Michael" <michael3536@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks Greg for the Youtube link is good, very helpful, I'll need to watch
more of them.
>
> I have four solar panels and felt its safer for the electrical system to be
shut down for extended periods of time.
>
> I have to trace out some wires and figure out why my clocks and AC have no
12volt.
>
> Thanks Michael
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "timvasqz" wrote:
> >
> > Mike why would you want to turn it off? It sounds like 'on' it is one of the
phantom loads (a constant or continuous duty solenoid). You could bypass the
electrical gateway by disabling the switch input to the solenoid and connecting
the two heavy duty (12v when powered) wires together. Once completed, the AT
switch provides no theft protection and the items are always enabled.
> > If the only reason you turn the at switch to "protect" is to remove the amp
draw and battery use, just remove the device???? I never use my at switch for
theft protection.
> >
> > voltage will not show battery consumption.Voltage is a measure of ability.
amp is a measure of volume. heat will prove consumption of amp hours.
> >
> > One other test of the solenoid would be continuity . remove both cables
(large power) and test the continuity threw the input and output of the
solenoid. ohms at infinity would be the reading you want when the solenoid is
off and 0 is the measure of good continuity . the trick is to make sure you
maintain 12 volts and ground to the switch side of the solenoid.
> >
> > When I make changes and additions I document them in a spiral notebook for
the NO. these notes more useful then documented oil changes and oil samples
which are only good for false security, higher resale and excuses after the
fact.
> >
> > video for continuity testing
> > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wslo0QSrs58
> >
> > Greg of Tim&Greg
> > 94ptca
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Michael" <michael3536@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Wayne,
> > > I put the positive lead to heavy cable while still connected at the
solenoid and the neg to ground/body. Positioned it to view through the
windshield, turn the switch off and still had 3 to 4 volts at the cable.
> > >
> > > I then disconnected the cable and tried the switch with the meter still
hooked up to the same heavy terminal end at the solenoid and same ground and the
solinoid worked fine.
> > >
> > > What other tests should I do to find out where that low voltage is coming
from?
> > >
> > >
> > > about the ac
> > > My AC does have 120vac and also call for 12vdc. I have a clicker instead
of wired control I'v got photos of the schematic but have a hard time posting
them..
> > >
> > > Do I have to be careful hooking up a circuit tracer that sends a signal
though the wires? Any pointers for tracing wires back to fuses? These are small
wires I trying to find.
> > >
> > > Thanks for your insights-- Michael
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wayne Kotila
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Michael:
> > > >
> > > > Do you mean that when you have one of the heavy guage wires taken off
the solenoid relay that you no longer have an apparent stray voltage reading at
the smaller relay coil terminals?
> > > > I would suspect that the unusual symptoms your having with other dash
components may be related like you said but your bedroom clock probably isn't.
Wanderlodges have so many different fuse/breaker panels and use a mix of
protective devises from the self resetting breakers to glass fuses. In your
bedroom panels make shure you check to see if your getting 12 volt power past
all of your breakers and fuses. Also does your coach have two 12 volt power main
shut off switchs? On my PT40 one of the main 12 volt shut off switchs is in an
overhead living room cabinet and it shuts off power to the front and rear clocks
and a few other things, you may want to also check that shut off if you have it.
> > > > When you say you have no 12 volt power to your rear carrier AC unit,
what do you mean? If you are talking about the bedroom roof or central air
conditioner, those run on 120 volts ac only, (there is no 12 volt control
circuit on them).
> > > > Wayne
> > > > 1985PT40
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ________________________________
> > > > From: Michael <michael3536@>
> > > > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, June 9, 2009 9:44:38 PM
> > > > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: solenoid acting up
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Wayne
> > > >
> > > > I may have not worded my question right---
> > > >
> > > > I am having trouble with the Anti/Theft switch on my dash that controls
a solenoid/relay in the lower generator fan bay. It is a 200 Amp sp st
Cutler-Hammer solenoid that when turned off still has 3 or 4 volts running
thought it to the dash. When that happens my step extend switch light flashes
and some switch chatters and only completely shuts of when I activate a switch
like the heated mirrors with a large draw.
> > > >
> > > > When the cable is disconnected and a meter is attached the solenoid
works every time showing 12vdc and the o or .01 vdc when off.
> > > >
> > > > The solenoid either has feedback? or is broken? I'm not that swift on
electricity.
> > > >
> > > > I have 3 components that are not working and may not even be connected,
My dash clock, bedroom clock and I've lost 12vdc to my rear bedroom Carrier AC
unit. I think my bedroom clock and AC unit may be connected They seem to be
powed from the old dometic control wires.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for your help and I apologize for not being clearer.....
> > > >
> > > > Michael
> > > >
> > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "Michael" <michael3536@ ...>
wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > How do you test a test solenoid?
> > > > >
> > > > > my A/T switch does not completely shut off the power to the dash
> > > > >
> > > > > I got out my meter and performed these tests;
> > > > >
> > > > > #1 found it had 3.8 to 4.5 volts still passing through the relay when
> > > > > switched off and went to "0" only when I activated another switch with
a
> > > > > larger draw like the (mirror heat) The step extend switch just changes
> > > > > the tone of a low voltage chatter.
> > > > >
> > > > > #2 with load wire disconnected from the switch, it seemed to
> > > > > work consistently, showing only .01 or.02 VDC on the meter.
> > > > >
> > > > > I'm not sure what that means or how I should really test it.... why
> > > > > would it work without a load?
> > > > >
> > > > > I've checked temperature of the relay when left on and gets up to 120+
> > > > > degrees. Is that normal? I hate to lose all that energy to heat.
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks for any help
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

[GARY MINKER]

If it is not fuses it will be molex connectors. Go to Caig Labs for cleaner Gary --- On Fri, 6/12/09, timvasqz wrote: From: timvasqz Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: solenoid acting up To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Date: Friday, June 12, 2009, 12:52 AM The two issues may not be related. the ac 12 volts may be a problem at the dash ac control switch or relay that the switch trips. Greg of Tim&Greg 94ptca --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "Michael" <michael3536@ ...> wrote: > > Thanks Greg for the Youtube link is good, very helpful, I'll need to watch more of them. > > I have four solar panels and felt its safer for the electrical system to be shut down for extended periods of time. > > I have to trace out some wires and figure out why my clocks and AC have no 12volt. > > Thanks Michael > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "timvasqz" wrote: > > > > Mike why would you want to turn it off? It sounds like 'on' it is one of the phantom loads (a constant or continuous duty solenoid). You could bypass the electrical gateway by disabling the switch input to the solenoid and connecting the two heavy duty (12v when powered) wires together. Once completed, the AT switch provides no theft protection and the items are always enabled. > > If the only reason you turn the at switch to "protect" is to remove the amp draw and battery use, just remove the device???? I never use my at switch for theft protection. > > > > voltage will not show battery consumption. Voltage is a measure of ability. amp is a measure of volume. heat will prove consumption of amp hours. > > > > One other test of the solenoid would be continuity . remove both cables (large power) and test the continuity threw the input and output of the solenoid. ohms at infinity would be the reading you want when the solenoid is off and 0 is the measure of good continuity . the trick is to make sure you maintain 12 volts and ground to the switch side of the solenoid. > > > > When I make changes and additions I document them in a spiral notebook for the NO. these notes more useful then documented oil changes and oil samples which are only good for false security, higher resale and excuses after the fact. > > > > video for continuity testing > > http://www.youtube. com/watch? v=Wslo0QSrs58 > > > > Greg of Tim&Greg > > 94ptca > > > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "Michael" <michael3536@ > wrote: > > > > > > Wayne, > > > I put the positive lead to heavy cable while still connected at the solenoid and the neg to ground/body. Positioned it to view through the windshield, turn the switch off and still had 3 to 4 volts at the cable. > > > > > > I then disconnected the cable and tried the switch with the meter still hooked up to the same heavy terminal end at the solenoid and same ground and the solinoid worked fine. > > > > > > What other tests should I do to find out where that low voltage is coming from? > > > > > > > > > about the ac > > > My AC does have 120vac and also call for 12vdc. I have a clicker instead of wired control I'v got photos of the schematic but have a hard time posting them.. > > > > > > Do I have to be careful hooking up a circuit tracer that sends a signal though the wires? Any pointers for tracing wires back to fuses? These are small wires I trying to find. > > > > > > Thanks for your insights-- Michael > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, Wayne Kotila wrote: > > > > > > > > Michael: > > > > > > > > Do you mean that when you have one of the heavy guage wires taken off the solenoid relay that you no longer have an apparent stray voltage reading at the smaller relay coil terminals? > > > > I would suspect that the unusual symptoms your havingwith other dash components may be related like you said but your bedroom clock probably isn't. Wanderlodges have so many different fuse/breaker panels and use a mix of protective devisesfrom the self resetting breakers to glass fuses. In your bedroom panels make shure you check to see if your getting 12 volt power past all of your breakers and fuses. Also does your coach have two 12 volt power main shut off switchs? On my PT40 one of the main 12 volt shut off switchs isin anoverhead living room cabinet and it shuts off power to the front and rear clocks and a few other things, you may want to also check that shut off if you have it. > > > > When you say you have no 12 volt power to your rear carrier AC unit, what do you mean? If you are talking about the bedroom roof or central air conditioner, thoserun on120 volts ac only, (there is no 12 volt control circuit on them). > > > > Wayne > > > > 1985PT40 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ____________ _________ _________ __ > > > > From: Michael <michael3536@ > > > > > To: WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com > > > > Sent: Tuesday, June 9, 2009 9:44:38 PM > > > > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: solenoid acting up > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Wayne > > > > > > > > I may have not worded my question right--- > > > > > > > > I am having trouble with the Anti/Theft switch on my dash that controls a solenoid/relay in the lower generator fan bay. It is a 200 Amp sp st Cutler-Hammer solenoid that when turned off still has 3 or 4 volts running thought it to the dash. When that happens my step extend switch light flashes and some switch chatters and only completely shuts of when I activate a switch like the heated mirrors with a large draw. > > > > > > > > When the cable is disconnected and a meter is attached the solenoid works every time showing 12vdc and the o or .01 vdc when off. > > > > > > > > The solenoid either has feedback? or is broken? I'm not that swift on electricity. > > > > > > > > I have 3 components that are not working and may not even be connected, My dash clock, bedroom clock and I've lost 12vdc to my rear bedroom Carrier AC unit. I think my bedroom clock and AC unit may be connected They seem to be powed from the old dometic control wires. > > > > > > > > Thanks for your help and I apologize for not being clearer..... > > > > > > > > Michael > > > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "Michael" <michael3536@ ...> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > How do you test a test solenoid? > > > > > > > > > > my A/T switch does not completely shut off the power to the dash > > > > > > > > > > I got out my meter and performed these tests; > > > > > > > > > > #1 found it had 3.8 to 4.5 volts still passing through the relay when > > > > > switched off and went to "0" only when I activated another switch with a > > > > > larger draw like the (mirror heat) The step extend switch just changes > > > > > the tone of a low voltage chatter. > > > > > > > > > > #2 with load wire disconnected from the switch, it seemed to > > > > > workconsistently, showing only .01 or.02 VDC on the meter. > > > > > > > > > > I'm not sure what that means or how I should really test it.... why > > > > > would it work without a load? > > > > > > > > > > I've checked temperature of the relay when left on and gets up to 120+ > > > > > degrees. Is that normal? I hate to lose all that energy to heat. > > > > > > > > > > Thanks for any help > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >

[GARY MINKER]

Those giant solenoids will occasionally blow up inside and have a carbon track leak on the main terminals. Remove all wired from it. Check for a few hundred Ohms resistance on the coil leads. An infinite reading from the coil leads to the case and infinite from the main pins to each other, the case and coil wires. If you get a few hundred KOhms, the solenoid is leaking and will get worse or eventually catch fire. Also, Activate the solenoid and read ZERO Ohms main pin to main pin to show there is no pitting or burning on the main contact surfaces Gary --- On Tue, 6/9/09, Michael <michael3536@...> wrote: From: Michael <michael3536@...> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: solenoid acting up To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, June 9, 2009, 11:27 PM Wayne I may have not worded my question right--- I am having trouble with the Anti/Theft switch on my dash that controls a solenoid/relay in the lower generator fan bay. It is a 200 Amp sp st Cutler-Hammer solenoid that when turned off still has 3 or 4 volts running thought it to the dash. When that happens my step extend switch light flitters and some switch chatters and will only completely shut off when I activate another switch like the heated mirrors that has a large draw. When the cable is disconnected and a meter is attached the solenoid works every time showing 12vdc and "o" or .01 vdc when off. The solenoid either has feedback? or is broken? A friend has suggested a bad ground but do not know how to go about finding one.. I've been looking and checking for bad fuses and trying to get a understanding of schematics ----- but no luck yet Also I seem to be missing the key for the relays in the front panel they are numbered and on my schematic but not described. A new Cutler- Hammer solenoid is 200$ and it may not be the problem I have 3 other components that are not working and may or may not be connected or caused by the low voltage/solenoid problem My upper dash clock is out, my bedroom clock and I've lost 12vdc to my rear bedroom Carrier AC unit. I think my bedroom clock and AC unit are powered from the old Dometic control wiring harness / plug. I have not found any fuses that are out. I've purchased a circuit tester but do not really know were the lines go and read that I could hurt components that are still connected or at the other end. Thanks for your help and I apologize for not being clearer..... Michael --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "Michael" <michael3536@ ...> wrote: > > How do you test a test solenoid? > > my A/T switch does not completely shut off the power to the dash > > I got out my meter and performed these tests; > > #1 found it had 3.8 to 4.5 volts still passing through the relay when > switched off and went to "0" only when I activated another switch with a > larger draw like the (mirror heat) The step extend switch just changes > the tone of a low voltage chatter. > > #2 with load wire disconnected from the switch, it seemed to > workconsistently, showing only .01 or.02 VDC on the meter. > > I'm not sure what that means or how I should really test it.... why > would it work without a load? > > I've checked temperature of the relay when left on and gets up to 120+ > degrees. Is that normal? I hate to lose all that energy to heat. > > Thanks for any help >

[Michael]

Thank you Gary --- I will do that test. A original replacement solenoid is
$200 and I did not want to throw parts at it -- Michael


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, GARY MINKER wrote:
>
> Those giant solenoids will occasionally blow up inside and have a carbon track
leak on the main terminals. Remove all wired from it. Check for a few hundred
Ohms resistance on the coil leads. An infinite reading from the coil leads to
the case and infinite from the main pins to each other, the case and coil wires.
If you get a few hundred KOhms, the solenoid is leaking and will get worse or
eventually catch fire. Also, Activate the solenoid and read ZERO Ohms main pin
to main pin to show there is no pitting or burning on the main contact surfaces
> Gary
>
> --- On Tue, 6/9/09, Michael <michael3536@...> wrote:
>
> From: Michael <michael3536@...>
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: solenoid acting up
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, June 9, 2009, 11:27 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Wayne
>
>
>
> I may have not worded my question right---
>
>
>
> I am having trouble with the Anti/Theft switch on my dash that controls a
>
> solenoid/relay in the lower generator fan bay. It is a 200 Amp sp st
>
> Cutler-Hammer solenoid that when turned off still has 3 or 4 volts running
>
> thought it to the dash. When that happens my step extend switch light flitters
>
> and some switch chatters and will only completely shut off when I activate
another switch
>
> like the heated mirrors that has a large draw.
>
>
>
> When the cable is disconnected and a meter is attached the solenoid works
>
> every time showing 12vdc and "o" or .01 vdc when off.
>
>
>
> The solenoid either has feedback? or is broken? A friend has suggested a bad
ground but do not know how to go about finding one.. I've been looking and
checking for bad fuses and trying to get a understanding of schematics -----
but no luck yet
>
>
>
> Also I seem to be missing the key for the relays in the front panel they are
numbered and on my schematic but not described.
>
>
>
> A new Cutler- Hammer solenoid is 200$ and it may not be the problem
>
>
>
> I have 3 other components that are not working and may or may not be
connected or caused by the low voltage/solenoid problem
>
>
>
> My upper dash clock is out, my bedroom clock and I've lost 12vdc to my rear
bedroom Carrier AC unit.
>
>
>
> I think my bedroom clock and AC unit are powered from the old Dometic control
wiring harness / plug. I have not found any fuses that are out. I've
purchased a circuit tester but do not really know were the lines go and read
that I could hurt components that are still connected or at the other end.
>
>
>
> Thanks for your help and I apologize for not being clearer.....
>
>
>
> Michael
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "Michael" <michael3536@ ...> wrote:
>
> >
>
> > How do you test a test solenoid?
>
> >
>
> > my A/T switch does not completely shut off the power to the dash
>
> >
>
> > I got out my meter and performed these tests;
>
> >
>
> > #1 found it had 3.8 to 4.5 volts still passing through the relay when
>
> > switched off and went to "0" only when I activated another switch with a
>
> > larger draw like the (mirror heat) The step extend switch just changes
>
> > the tone of a low voltage chatter.
>
> >
>
> > #2 with load wire disconnected from the switch, it seemed to
>
> > work consistently, showing only .01 or.02 VDC on the meter.
>
> >
>
> > I'm not sure what that means or how I should really test it.... why
>
> > would it work without a load?
>
> >
>
> > I've checked temperature of the relay when left on and gets up to 120+
>
> > degrees. Is that normal? I hate to lose all that energy to heat.
>
> >
>
> > Thanks for any help
>
> >
>