94pt 'cool o matic' gally exhaust fan

[Joyce and Richard Hayden]

That's fine Pete. If you want it after that let me know.

Happy trails.

Dick Hayden - '87 PT 38 - Lake Stevens, WA

----- Original Message -----

From: "aeonix1@mac.com"

To: "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com"

Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2008 6:27 AM

Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] 94pt 'cool o matic' gally exhaust fan

Dick,

I appreciate the offer -- but I'm about to start moving the rig more
frequently, so I don't have an address where I can receive the stuff
-- at least not until January.

Thanks.

Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
"aeonix1@mac.com"
On the road near Scranton, PA

On Sep 30, 2008, at 7:09 PM, Joyce and Richard Hayden wrote:

> Pete,
> I, like Curt, removed the cool-o-matic unit and replaced with a
> Fantastic. The motor with blade and grille are good and you may
> have them for the shipping if you like. If interested let me know
> soon as we are heading to our winter quarters near the middle of Oct.
>
> Dick Hayden - '87 PT 38 - Lake Stevens, WA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Pete Masterson
> To: "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com"
> Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 9:48 AM
> Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] 94pt 'cool o matic' gally exhaust fan
>
> The Fantastic Fan as a replacement makes sense ... but I like the
> cool-o-matic because it allows me to run the fan (and get
> ventilation) even if its raining.
>
> Does anyone have info about "Maxxaire" or other alternatives that
> might allow all-weather use of the fan?
>
> Note, my cool-o-matic quit a few days ago. I'm not sure if it's the
> thermostat or the fan itself -- or a fuse (anybody know where the
> fuse is?). (I don't know when I'll have time to do a full trouble-
> shooting on the fan while we're on the road...)
>
> Pete Masterson
> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> "aeonix1%40mac.com"
> On the road near Scranton, PA
>
> On Sep 30, 2008, at 11:25 AM, Curt Sprenger wrote:
>
> > Greg,
> >
> > Replace the cool-0-matic with an Fantastic Fan, the rain sensor, 3
> > speed, in/out. Wire it to the same cool-O-matic thermostat wires.
> > You'll have a new fan and more light in the kitchen.
> >
> > On Tue, Sep 30, 2008 at 7:55 AM, Gregory OConnor
> > <"Gregoryoc%40aol.com"> wrote:
> > My center exhaust fan is a 12 volt roof mount exhaust. I keep it
> > running on a wall mounted thermostat(as designed) set at 90degF
> > with a window open and a cheap home style heater duct filter in the
> > window. works good, the filter gets choked with dust that would
> > otherwise settle in the parked bus or fan blades and motor(should
> > have a window open at each end but am too lazy).
> >
> > I took the fan housing apart to clean and lube a noisy bearing and
> > uncovered a stowed three speed switch under the fan. the switch says
> > potentiometer and has two springs at back which I believe are heat
> > sinks (they get hot). I would like to have access to the switch to
> > reduce the speed while drycamping (layoff Leroy) and conserve
> > battery. I also like the idea of a slower moving fan while stored
> > and unattended and a higher speed fan while cooking.
> >
> > I was thinking of hard wireing around the switch and moving the
> > potentiometer/switch to the wall near the thermostat . if you have
> > the switch where the fan mfg designed (thru a hole in the cover) you
> > cant slid in the headliner blank. Prob with moving the switch is
> > the "heat sink" in the wall???? I dont even know if the thermostat
> > has a wire 'to the fan' or 'to a relay - to the fan'??? also of
> > concern is the need for a heat sink?? does a product that produce
> > heat (pot switch),not consume energy?? would a rheostat be a better
> > choice for the wall??? gotta learn more about potentiometer vs
> > rheostat, both cool words but must be more to their differences.
> >
> > Greg94ptCa
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Curt Sprenger
> > 1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
> > Anaheim Hills, CA
> >
>
>
>

[Joyce and Richard Hayden]

Pete,

I found a direct replacement for that stat at Lowe's in Yuma last winter.

Dick Hayden - '87 PT 38 - Lake Stevens, WA

----- Original Message -----

From: "aeonix1@mac.com"

To: "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com"

Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2008 6:31 AM

Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 94pt 'cool o matic' gally exhaust fan

Good info!! Just what I needed to know. If I can find a Walmart in
this state, I'll take a look at the Hunter thermostat.

Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
"aeonix1@mac.com"
On the road near Scranton, PA

On Sep 30, 2008, at 9:56 PM, Don Bradner wrote:

> Mine also has Green, Brown, and White. Green-to-white turns the
> Kool-o-matic on, Brown to white is the heater.
>
> I replaced with a Hunter 42999B from Wal-Mart, digital. Green to
> the G terminal, Brown to W, White to Rh, with a jumper from Rh to
> Rc. Y has no connection.
>
> Works very, very well.
>
> Don Bradner
> 90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
> Posting today by satellite near Rodanthe, on the NC Outer Banks
> My location: http://www.bbirdmaps.com/user2.cfm?user=1
>
> On 9/30/2008 at 4:47 PM Pete Masterson wrote:
>
>> I checked all the fuses in the overhead (it's different on a PT-42)
>> power center and didn't find any blown fuses/tripped breakers.
>>
>> After disassembling a few things, I'm suspecting that the thermostat
>> is shot. There's a lot of corrosion on the back side, down where the
>> switches are mounted.
>>
>> I'm aware of how to turn on the fan, so that's not the problem. I
>> previously had intermittent operation (that is, the fan would cycle
>> on and off -- without regard to the thermostat setting -- but then it
>> seemed to (mostly) be working as expected for several months. Last
>> Friday, it refused to go on despite whatever manipulation. In the
>> past, when the fan failed to come on, slamming the front door often
>> started it up -- but even that doesn't work now.
>>
>> I took some things apart and found no 'juice' at the fan.
>>
>> The thermostat has 3 wires coming it its backside, white, green, and
>> brown. Shorting either the green or brown to the white (presumably
>> ground) causes the toe-heater to come on. (This was with the middle
>> part of the thermostat removed, so the switches weren't active.) How
>> the thermostat circuits work is a mystery to me.
>>
>> I'm going to try to find a replacement thermostat at a home center
>> (although, we're heading into Amish country in a couple of days, so
>> finding a home center with anything but lanterns might prove
>> difficult...)
>>
>>
>> Pete Masterson
>> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
>> "aeonix1%40mac.com"
>> On the road near Scranton, PA
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sep 30, 2008, at 3:35 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote:
>>
>>> Kool o matic fan fuse on 94pt is
>>> front overhead component panel circuit block A "sk5"
>>> above driver ,in cabinet block close to street side,
>>>
>>> to turn on the fan you need to play wit the center thermostat
>>> try puttining one switch to cool and the fan on auto with the
>>> thermostat on a low temp setting. to have it run on auto you need to
>>> pick cool I guess it keeps from exhaustinng generated heat.
>>> Greg94pt
>>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------
>>
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

[Pete Masterson]

I'll look for a Lowes. This part of Pennsylvania that we're in
doesn't seem to have many big box stores (haven't even seen a
Walmart) -- but we're heading down toward Lancaster, and that part of
the state seems to be more populated.

Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
aeonix1@...
On the road near Scranton, PA



On Oct 1, 2008, at 1:41 PM, Joyce and Richard Hayden wrote:

> Pete,
> I found a direct replacement for that stat at Lowe's in Yuma last
> winter.
>
> Dick Hayden - '87 PT 38 - Lake Stevens, WA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Pete Masterson
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2008 6:31 AM
> Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 94pt 'cool o matic' gally
> exhaust fan
>
> Good info!! Just what I needed to know. If I can find a Walmart in
> this state, I'll take a look at the Hunter thermostat.
>
> Pete Masterson
> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> aeonix1@...
> On the road near Scranton, PA
>
> On Sep 30, 2008, at 9:56 PM, Don Bradner wrote:
>
> > Mine also has Green, Brown, and White. Green-to-white turns the
> > Kool-o-matic on, Brown to white is the heater.
> >
> > I replaced with a Hunter 42999B from Wal-Mart, digital. Green to
> > the G terminal, Brown to W, White to Rh, with a jumper from Rh to
> > Rc. Y has no connection.
> >
> > Works very, very well.
> >
> > Don Bradner
> > 90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
> > Posting today by satellite near Rodanthe, on the NC Outer Banks
> > My location: http://www.bbirdmaps.com/user2.cfm?user=1
> >
> > On 9/30/2008 at 4:47 PM Pete Masterson wrote:
> >
> >> I checked all the fuses in the overhead (it's different on a PT-42)
> >> power center and didn't find any blown fuses/tripped breakers.
> >>
> >> After disassembling a few things, I'm suspecting that the
> thermostat
> >> is shot. There's a lot of corrosion on the back side, down where
> the
> >> switches are mounted.
> >>
> >> I'm aware of how to turn on the fan, so that's not the problem. I
> >> previously had intermittent operation (that is, the fan would cycle
> >> on and off -- without regard to the thermostat setting -- but
> then it
> >> seemed to (mostly) be working as expected for several months. Last
> >> Friday, it refused to go on despite whatever manipulation. In the
> >> past, when the fan failed to come on, slamming the front door often
> >> started it up -- but even that doesn't work now.
> >>
> >> I took some things apart and found no 'juice' at the fan.
> >>
> >> The thermostat has 3 wires coming it its backside, white, green,
> and
> >> brown. Shorting either the green or brown to the white (presumably
> >> ground) causes the toe-heater to come on. (This was with the middle
> >> part of the thermostat removed, so the switches weren't active.)
> How
> >> the thermostat circuits work is a mystery to me.
> >>
> >> I'm going to try to find a replacement thermostat at a home center
> >> (although, we're heading into Amish country in a couple of days, so
> >> finding a home center with anything but lanterns might prove
> >> difficult...)
> >>
> >>
> >> Pete Masterson
> >> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> >> aeonix1@...
> >> On the road near Scranton, PA
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> On Sep 30, 2008, at 3:35 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote:
> >>
> >>> Kool o matic fan fuse on 94pt is
> >>> front overhead component panel circuit block A "sk5"
> >>> above driver ,in cabinet block close to street side,
> >>>
> >>> to turn on the fan you need to play wit the center thermostat
> >>> try puttining one switch to cool and the fan on auto with the
> >>> thermostat on a low temp setting. to have it run on auto you
> need to
> >>> pick cool I guess it keeps from exhaustinng generated heat.
> >>> Greg94pt
> >>>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------------
> >>
> >> Yahoo! Groups Links
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>

[Leroy Eckert]

I would bet you a steak at Hungry Hunter that you can move that speed control switch to the wall. You may need to change the wire gauge to do so. Leroy Eckert 1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors Dahlonega, GA --- On Wed, 10/1/08, Gregory OConnor wrote: From: Gregory OConnor Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 94pt 'cool o matic' gally exhaust fan To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Date: Wednesday, October 1, 2008, 11:34 AM The thermostat output wires probably doesnt even power the fan. most likely it powers a bosch relay. [*]there is a fuse for the thermostat power (above driver sk10) this power wire to the thermostat is green [*]and a fuse for the fan relay power (above driver sk10) power wire is orange/black. [*]The fan relay switch (K8,a bosh relay above driver) gets a 12v signal from the thermostatfixture to send another source of 12v power power(sk10) to the fan [/list] The thermostat sends a signal back to the relay above the driver. that signal causes the relay to make contact and connects the sk10 fuse to the fan. the potentiometer at the fan then dictates the speed. for the fan to work both fuses the relay and the potentiometer must check out ok. you can test the fan inplace by hooking it up to a portable carbattery jump pack. if it runs it still may not be good, could be drawing too much amps and the reason some issue of power faulted in one of the fuese, relays or potentiometer. an ampmeter between the battery and the power should prove draw ( I dont know how to measure amp draw). My fan has a lable that says 8 .5 amp full speed. since the fan is not powered directly by the thermostat I can not relocate the potentiometer to the thermostat wall. Greg94ptCa

[Gregory OConnor]

Leroy, now you did it, we were headed out to VeraCruz for fish now I
want steak. I removed the speed control and hardwired the fan under
the cover so now it only runs at full speed. I dont believe the
wire to the fan passes the thermostat?? I know changing voltage to
the relay wont adjust the fan but for a steak dinner, Im game

Greg94ptCa
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Leroy Eckert
wrote:
>
> I would bet you a steak at Hungry Hunter that you can move that
speed control switch to the wall. You may need to change the wire
gauge to do so.
> Leroy Eckert
> 1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
> Dahlonega, GA
>
> --- On Wed, 10/1/08, Gregory OConnor wrote:
> From: Gregory OConnor
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 94pt 'cool o matic' gally exhaust
fan
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Wednesday, October 1, 2008, 11:34 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> The thermostat output wires probably doesnt even power
the fan. most likely it powers a bosch relay.
>
> there is a fuse for the thermostat power (above driver sk10) this
power wire to the thermostat is green
> and a fuse for the fan relay power (above driver sk10) power wire
is orange/black.
> The fan relay switch (K8, a bosh relay above driver) gets a 12v
signal from the thermostat fixture to send another source of 12v
power power(sk10) to the fan
>   The thermostat sends a signal back to the relay above the
driver. that signal causes the relay to make contact and connects
the sk10 fuse to the fan. the potentiometer at the fan then
dictates the speed. for the fan to work both fuses the relay and
the potentiometer must check out ok.
> you can test the fan inplace by hooking it up to a portable
carbattery jump pack.   if it runs it still may not be good, could
be drawing too much amps and the reason some issue of power faulted
in one of the fuese, relays or potentiometer.
> an ampmeter between the battery and the power should prove draw (
I dont know how to measure amp draw). My fan has a lable that says
8 .5 amp full speed.
> since the fan is not powered directly by the thermostat I can not
relocate the potentiometer to the thermostat wall.
> Greg94ptCa
>

[g_man1146]

Greg,

I took the easy way out when we had our '90 with the same fan and
switch setup. I re-installed the switch near it's original location
inside the fan with the shaft facing down. Then I drilled a hole and
fabricated a removable, long shaft knob. I had a sliding fan cover
that required removing the knob to close.

Rich D. '99LXi43' CT

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor"
wrote:
>
> My center exhaust fan is a 12 volt roof mount exhaust. I keep it
> running on a wall mounted thermostat(as designed) set at 90degF
> with a window open and a cheap home style heater duct filter in the
> window. works good, the filter gets choked with dust that would
> otherwise settle in the parked bus or fan blades and motor(should
> have a window open at each end but am too lazy).
>
> I took the fan housing apart to clean and lube a noisy bearing and
> uncovered a stowed three speed switch under the fan. the switch
says
> potentiometer and has two springs at back which I believe are heat
> sinks (they get hot). I would like to have access to the switch to
> reduce the speed while drycamping (layoff Leroy) and conserve
> battery. I also like the idea of a slower moving fan while stored
> and unattended and a higher speed fan while cooking.
>
> I was thinking of hard wireing around the switch and moving the
> potentiometer/switch to the wall near the thermostat . if you have
> the switch where the fan mfg designed (thru a hole in the cover)
you
> cant slid in the headliner blank. Prob with moving the switch is
> the "heat sink" in the wall???? I dont even know if the thermostat
> has a wire 'to the fan' or 'to a relay - to the fan'??? also of
> concern is the need for a heat sink?? does a product that produce
> heat (pot switch),not consume energy?? would a rheostat be a better
> choice for the wall??? gotta learn more about potentiometer vs
> rheostat, both cool words but must be more to their differences.
>
> Greg94ptCa
>

[Don Bradner]

Hmm. You did a good job - I didn't know that the configuration wasn't stock!
Some intermediate owner made off with the knob, so when I want to adjust I use a
pair of needle-nose pliers. Keep meaning to pick up a knob at an electronics
supply, but it hasn't been a priority.

Don Bradner
90 PT40 "Blue Thunder" (original owner Rich D)
Posting today by satellite from Selma, North Carolina
My location: http://www.bbirdmaps.com/user2.cfm?user=1

On 10/2/2008 at 1:35 PM g_man1146 wrote:

>Greg,
>
>I took the easy way out when we had our '90 with the same fan and
>switch setup. I re-installed the switch near it's original location
>inside the fan with the shaft facing down. Then I drilled a hole and
>fabricated a removable, long shaft knob. I had a sliding fan cover
>that required removing the knob to close.
>
>Rich D. '99LXi43' CT
>
>--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor"
> wrote:
>>
>> My center exhaust fan is a 12 volt roof mount exhaust. I keep it
>> running on a wall mounted thermostat(as designed) set at 90degF
>> with a window open and a cheap home style heater duct filter in the
>> window. works good, the filter gets choked with dust that would
>> otherwise settle in the parked bus or fan blades and motor(should
>> have a window open at each end but am too lazy).
>>
>> I took the fan housing apart to clean and lube a noisy bearing and
>> uncovered a stowed three speed switch under the fan. the switch
>says
>> potentiometer and has two springs at back which I believe are heat
>> sinks (they get hot). I would like to have access to the switch to
>> reduce the speed while drycamping (layoff Leroy) and conserve
>> battery. I also like the idea of a slower moving fan while stored
>> and unattended and a higher speed fan while cooking.
>>
>> I was thinking of hard wireing around the switch and moving the
>> potentiometer/switch to the wall near the thermostat . if you have
>> the switch where the fan mfg designed (thru a hole in the cover)
>you
>> cant slid in the headliner blank. Prob with moving the switch is
>> the "heat sink" in the wall???? I dont even know if the thermostat
>> has a wire 'to the fan' or 'to a relay - to the fan'??? also of
>> concern is the need for a heat sink?? does a product that produce
>> heat (pot switch),not consume energy?? would a rheostat be a better
>> choice for the wall??? gotta learn more about potentiometer vs
>> rheostat, both cool words but must be more to their differences.
>>
>> Greg94ptCa
>>
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Don Bradner
90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
My location: http://www.bbirdmaps.com/user2.cfm?user=1

[Tom McCarthy]

If the Kool-a-Matic works, let it be. It is a great fan.


Tommy 2 Shoes McCarthy
Powy CA
95 PT42

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Curt Sprenger"
wrote:
>
> Greg,
>
> Replace the cool-0-matic with an Fantastic Fan, the rain sensor, 3
speed,
> in/out. Wire it to the same cool-O-matic thermostat wires. You'll
have a
> new fan and more light in the kitchen.
>
> On Tue, Sep 30, 2008 at 7:55 AM, Gregory OConnor
wrote:
>
> > My center exhaust fan is a 12 volt roof mount exhaust. I keep it
> > running on a wall mounted thermostat(as designed) set at 90degF
> > with a window open and a cheap home style heater duct filter in
the
> > window. works good, the filter gets choked with dust that would
> > otherwise settle in the parked bus or fan blades and motor(should
> > have a window open at each end but am too lazy).
> >
> > I took the fan housing apart to clean and lube a noisy bearing and
> > uncovered a stowed three speed switch under the fan. the switch
says
> > potentiometer and has two springs at back which I believe are heat
> > sinks (they get hot). I would like to have access to the switch to
> > reduce the speed while drycamping (layoff Leroy) and conserve
> > battery. I also like the idea of a slower moving fan while stored
> > and unattended and a higher speed fan while cooking.
> >
> > I was thinking of hard wireing around the switch and moving the
> > potentiometer/switch to the wall near the thermostat . if you have
> > the switch where the fan mfg designed (thru a hole in the cover)
you
> > cant slid in the headliner blank. Prob with moving the switch is
> > the "heat sink" in the wall???? I dont even know if the thermostat
> > has a wire 'to the fan' or 'to a relay - to the fan'??? also of
> > concern is the need for a heat sink?? does a product that produce
> > heat (pot switch),not consume energy?? would a rheostat be a
better
> > choice for the wall??? gotta learn more about potentiometer vs
> > rheostat, both cool words but must be more to their differences.
> >
> > Greg94ptCa
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Curt Sprenger
> 1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
> Anaheim Hills, CA
>