GFI Faults and interior light replacemts

[Curt Sprenger]

I agree with stephen, no hot ballasts. Stephen's ballasts are much better quality than the older ballasts. I replaced all our ballasts with those from Stephen...all continue to work after three plus years...and NOT HOT. I don't not recall why, but I did use screws to anchor them...probable me as I only do things in OVER KILL MODE.


Curt Sprenger
1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
Anaheim Hills, CA

On Mon, Jan 5, 2009 at 2:53 PM, Stephen Birtles <"cape0001@hotmail.com"> wrote:

\the ballasts do not run hot

Stephen

dupreeproducts.com





--- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", GARY MINKER

wrote:

>

> Doublesided tape on a balast could be a fire hazard if the balast

runs hot. Tempting as it may be, I would use screws.

>

> --- On Mon, 1/5/09, Hugh Turner wrote:

>

> From: Hugh Turner

> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: GFI Faults and interior light replacemts

> To: "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com"

> Date: Monday, January 5, 2009, 6:10 AM

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "jcpryn"

wrote:

>

>

>

> Hello,

>

>

>

> Helping a friend with his BB 84fc35' and out of the blue he started

>

> getting immediate ground faults. We shut off all of the breakers and

>

> still getting the fault. plugged the cord in by it's self and no

>

> faults, but as soon as it's plugged into the BB the GFI trips.

>

>

>

> Any ideas?

>

>

>

> thanks

>

> John

>

>

>

> John

>

> Last year on a trip to MS 110vac worked fine on genset. When I got to

>

> campground as soon as I plugged into their 50 amp shore power I got a

>

> hot to neutral short did the simple things first. 1. Had campground

>

> check their side 2. went through some of the checks you did 3. took

>

> out the connection box to check it ok 4. called plant for help. When I

>

> described the problem Jessie told me they had problems on the PT with

>

> water and other stuff getting on the contacts The had a repair the did

>

> to correct the problem told me he lets parts know I may need a switch

>

> ($800 est). After aboout a 1/2 a day in MS in August I finally of

>

> removing seat, carpeting and all the other stuff on top or around the

>

> access plate was able to get the switch out. Once it was out the

>

> safetline module was the of the problem it had shorted. I removed it

>

> have not had any problems since, just make sure you have a way

>

> (checklist, bright color cord, remove before flight streamer etc) to

>

> remind you that you are on shore power before you pull out taking the

>

> park power system with you. The red and yellow light are not the ones

>

> I am talking about they get their input from the module I am talking

>

> about. I do not know where is located it the FC itthe one you rotate

>

> to select the input voltage good luck hope this works

>

>

>

> Hugh Turner

>

> 84 PT 40

>

[freewill2008]

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "timvasqz" wrote:
> Bob, did they work before and now brighter and more efficient?
BG: Yes.
> can you see as good under the old style as under the Stephen
Supplied Ballast.
BG: With new tubes and ballasts the dim fixtures became as bright as
the ones that had been working right.
> Just went out and took a look at my bus lights and I need all of
> them on to see as well as my home office with 280w worth of
> incandescent only.
BG: They run dim in winter if the bus is cool inside. They warm up
and get brighter after a few minutes. If all the fixures are the
same brightness (or dimness) you may be seeing the effect of cold.
They also run dim with old tubes and failing ballasts. I don't think
the interior lights are designed to be "office bright". These are
luxury coaches designed for a life of leisure y'know
> then the term Ballast is just a reference we use in place
> of 'thingamajig',
BG: "Ballast" is the name for the old 110AC coil type. The term has
stuck for 12V and 110V solid-state types.
> with the cooler StephenStyle it may be that the tape insulate the
> metal case from heating the thingamajig.
BG: The orginal 12V solid state ballasts in my fixtures were encased
in solid plastic. The designers were not worried about heat.
Bob Griesel 'FC31 WLII WA

[GARY MINKER]

Hi The encasement in solid plastic is used as a heat sink. This is a common practice in multi killowatt transformers. It is done at high vacume to insure that all the air is expelled. --- On Tue, 1/6/09, freewill2008 wrote: From: freewill2008 Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: GFI Faults and interior light replacemts To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, January 6, 2009, 1:40 AM --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "timvasqz" wrote: > Bob, did they work before and now brighter and more efficient? BG: Yes. > can you see as good under the old style as under the Stephen Supplied Ballast. BG: With new tubes and ballasts the dim fixtures became as bright as the ones that had been working right. > Just went out and took a look at my bus lights and I need all of > them on to see as well as my home office with 280w worth of > incandescent only. BG: They run dim in winter if the bus is cool inside. They warm up and get brighter after a few minutes. If all the fixures are the same brightness (or dimness) you may be seeing the effect of cold. They also run dim with old tubes and failing ballasts. I don't think the interior lights are designed to be "office bright". These are luxury coaches designed for a life of leisure y'know > then the term Ballast is just a reference we use in place > of 'thingamajig' , BG: "Ballast" is the name for the old 110AC coil type. The term has stuck for 12V and 110V solid-state types. > with the cooler StephenStyle it may be that the tape insulate the > metal case from heating the thingamajig. BG: The orginal 12V solid state ballasts in my fixtures were encased in solid plastic. The designers were not worried about heat. Bob Griesel 'FC31 WLII WA

[GARY MINKER]

A 12 volt dc input ballast is simply a chopper that makes several hundred ac volts at about 20,000 cycles. When it first turns on, it also gives a small spike in the high voltage to ionize the gas inside the flourescent tube and off it goes. They have no other good use except for zapping mosquitos --- On Mon, 1/5/09, timvasqz wrote: From: timvasqz Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: GFI Faults and interior light replacemts To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, January 5, 2009, 9:04 PM Curious why folks use you for balast purchase. is it unique to a 12v light over the 110v fluorescent light of a typical home appliance. My assumption is the Wanderlodge fluorescent light are 12v???? never had an issue or so I think they would not get brighter by replacing one. I did notice that DickH had brighter F lights at Q'08. I also wondered if the balast control amperage would a balast choice be used to balance the juice to control motor speed or light intensity inplace of a power hog rehostat? Gregory ofTim&Greg --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "Stephen Birtles" wrote: > > it makes your lights light > or balances your ship > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "timvasqz" wrote: > > > > Steve, what does a ballast do? > > GregoryO'Connor ofTim&Greg > > 94ptCa > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "Stephen Birtles" > > wrote: > > > > > > \the ballasts do not run hot > > > Stephen > > > dupreeproducts. com > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, GARY MINKER > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > Doublesided tape on a balast could be a fire hazard if the balast > > > runs hot. Tempting as it may be, I would use screws. > > > > > > > > --- On Mon, 1/5/09, Hugh Turner wrote: > > > > > > > > From: Hugh Turner > > > > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: GFI Faults and interior light > > replacemts > > > > To: WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com > > > > Date: Monday, January 5, 2009, 6:10 AM > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "jcpryn" > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Hello, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Helping a friend with his BB 84fc35' and out of the blue he > > started > > > > > > > > getting immediate ground faults. We shut off all of the > > breakers and > > > > > > > > still getting the fault. plugged the cord in by it's self and > > no > > > > > > > > faults, but as soon as it's plugged into the BB the GFI trips. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Any ideas? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > thanks > > > > > > > > John > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > John > > > > > > > > Last year on a trip to MS 110vac worked fine on genset. When I > > got to > > > > > > > > campground as soon as I plugged into their 50 amp shore power I > > got a > > > > > > > > hot to neutral short did the simple things first. 1. Had > > campground > > > > > > > > check their side 2. went through some of the checks you did 3. > > took > > > > > > > > out the connection box to check it ok 4. called plant for help. > > When I > > > > > > > > described the problem Jessie told me they had problems on the PT > > with > > > > > > > > water and other stuff getting on the contacts The had a repair > > the did > > > > > > > > to correct the problem told me he lets parts know I may need a > > switch > > > > > > > > ($800 est). After aboout a 1/2 a day in MS in August I finally of > > > > > > > > removing seat, carpeting and all the other stuff on top or > > around the > > > > > > > > access plate was able to get the switch out. Once it was out the > > > > > > > > safetline module was the of the problem it had shorted. I > > removed it > > > > > > > > have not had any problems since, just make sure you have a way > > > > > > > > (checklist, bright color cord, remove before flight streamer > > etc) to > > > > > > > > remind you that you are on shore power before you pull out > > taking the > > > > > > > > park power system with you. The red and yellow light are not the > > ones > > > > > > > > I am talking about they get their input from the module I am > > talking > > > > > > > > about. I do not know where is located it the FC itthe one you > > rotate > > > > > > > > to select the input voltage good luck hope this works > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Hugh Turner > > > > > > > > 84 PT 40 > > > > > > > > > >

[GARY MINKER]

The good news is that there are LED replacements for many lamps in the coach with many more on the way.Have a look at ebay. there is a great dealer in CA. --- On Mon, 1/5/09, timvasqz wrote: From: timvasqz Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: GFI Faults and interior light replacemts To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, January 5, 2009, 11:46 PM Bob, did they work before and now brighter and more efficient? can you see as good under the old style as under the StephenSupplied Ballast. Just went out and took a look at my bus lights and I need all of them on to see as well as my home office with 280w worth of incandescent only. then the term Ballast is just a reference we use inplace of 'thingamajig' , I agree it sounds more professional to use Ballast. With the old style heat makers, mounting metal to metal may have held the function of heat sink to cool the electronics. with the cooler StephenStyle it may be that the tape insulate the metal case from heating the thingamajig. GregoryO'Connor ofTim&Greg 94ptRomolandCa --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "freewill2008" wrote: > > 110 AC ballasts have only one job to do: Place a coil (some > inductance) across the leads to the tube. This offsets the > capacative nature of the tube and lets it draw enuf AC power to light > up. Modern solid-state ballasts immitate the coil but more > efficiently. > > The 12 volt "ballast" is more than a ballast. Each one is also an > inverter. 12 volts is first converted to 100+ volts and then fed to > the tube while simulating the effect of the coil as with a 110 > ballast. > > I replaced about half the ballasts in our 84FC with units supplied by > Stephen 5 years ago. The fixtures have worked fine since. > > Bob Griesel '84 FC31 WLII WA > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "Don Bradner" > wrote: > > > > Definitely 12 volt ballasts are different from 110 volt ballasts. > > > > The issue here, though, is two different types of > ballasts, "magnetic" vs electronic. I've never looked at my ballasts, > but given their age I expect they are magnetic (coil transformers > involved). That type is about 70% efficient, with the other 30% being > generated as heat. > > > > Electronic ballasts like Stephen sells are typically around 95% > efficient, with 5% lost as heat. > > > > I converted my retail store from magnetic to electronic a number of > years ago - lower heat, lower total power use, and no more dangerous > smoking ballasts! > > > > On 1/6/2009 at 2:04 AM timvasqz wrote: > > > > >Curious why folks use you for balast purchase. is it unique to a > > >12v light over the 110v fluorescent light of a typical home > > >appliance. My assumption is the Wanderlodge fluorescent light are > > >12v???? never had an issue or so I think they would not get > brighter > > >by replacing one. I did notice that DickH had brighter F lights at > > >Q'08. I also wondered if the balast control amperage would a > > >balast choice be used to balance the juice to control motor speed > or > > >light intensity inplace of a power hog rehostat? > > > > > > > > >Gregory ofTim&Greg > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "Stephen Birtles" > > > wrote: > > >> > > >> it makes your lights light > > >> or balances your ship > > >> > > >> > > >> --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "timvasqz" > > >wrote: > > >> > > > >> > Steve, what does a ballast do? > > >> > GregoryO'Connor ofTim&Greg > > >> > 94ptCa > > >> > > > >> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "Stephen Birtles" > > >> > wrote: > > >> > > > > >> > > \the ballasts do not run hot > > >> > > Stephen > > >> > > dupreeproducts. com > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, GARY MINKER > > > > > >> > > wrote: > > >> > > > > > >> > > > Doublesided tape on a balast could be a fire hazard if the > > >balast > > >> > > runs hot. Tempting as it may be, I would use screws. > > >> > > > > > >> > > > --- On Mon, 1/5/09, Hugh Turner wrote: > > >> > > > > > >> > > > From: Hugh Turner > > >> > > > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: GFI Faults and interior > > >light > > >> > replacemts > > >> > > > To: WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com > > >> > > > Date: Monday, January 5, 2009, 6:10 AM > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. > > >com, "jcpryn" > > >> > > wrote: > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > Hello, > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > Helping a friend with his BB 84fc35' and out of the blue > he > > >> > started > > >> > > > > > >> > > > getting immediate ground faults. We shut off all of the > > >> > breakers and > > >> > > > > > >> > > > still getting the fault. plugged the cord in by it's > self > > >and > > >> > no > > >> > > > > > >> > > > faults, but as soon as it's plugged into the BB the GFI > > >trips. > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > Any ideas? > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > thanks > > >> > > > > > >> > > > John > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > John > > >> > > > > > >> > > > Last year on a trip to MS 110vac worked fine on genset. > > >When I > > >> > got to > > >> > > > > > >> > > > campground as soon as I plugged into their 50 amp shore > > >power I > > >> > got a > > >> > > > > > >> > > > hot to neutral short did the simple things first. 1. Had > > >> > campground > > >> > > > > > >> > > > check their side 2. went through some of the checks you > did > > >3. > > >> > took > > >> > > > > > >> > > > out the connection box to check it ok 4. called plant for > > >help. > > >> > When I > > >> > > > > > >> > > > described the problem Jessie told me they had problems on > > >the PT > > >> > with > > >> > > > > > >> > > > water and other stuff getting on the contacts The had a > > >repair > > >> > the did > > >> > > > > > >> > > > to correct the problem told me he lets parts know I may > need > > >a > > >> > switch > > >> > > > > > >> > > > ($800 est). After aboout a 1/2 a day in MS in August I > > >finally of > > >> > > > > > >> > > > removing seat, carpeting and all the other stuff on top or > > >> > around the > > >> > > > > > >> > > > access plate was able to get the switch out. Once it was > out > > >the > > >> > > > > > >> > > > safetline module was the of the problem it had shorted. I > > >> > removed it > > >> > > > > > >> > > > have not had any problems since, just make sure you have a > > >way > > >> > > > > > >> > > > (checklist, bright color cord, remove before flight > streamer > > >> > etc) to > > >> > > > > > >> > > > remind you that you are on shore power before you pull out > > >> > taking the > > >> > > > > > >> > > > park power system with you. The red and yellow light are > not > > >the > > >> > ones > > >> > > > > > >> > > > I am talking about they get their input from the module I > am > > >> > talking > > >> > > > > > >> > > > about. I do not know where is located it the FC itthe one > > >you > > >> > rotate > > >> > > > > > >> > > > to select the input voltage good luck hope this works > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > Hugh Turner > > >> > > > > > >> > > > 84 PT 40 > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > >> > > > > > > > > > > > >----------- --------- --------- ------- > > > > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > >