Overheating 3208 in a 90SP36
|
08-11-2006, 14:50
Post: #41
|
|||
|
|||
Overheating 3208 in a 90SP36
Hi Jeff,
Thanks for the information. If I understand you correctly, Ernie's bird had the additional cooler tied into the oil line returning from the radiator on the way back to the transmission. If this is so, you wouldn't need as big an air cooler since you aren't taking on the whole cooling load from the radiator. Is that right? Regards, Eric 84FC35SBWL2 --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Miller" > > The turbo engine could use a tranny cooler in more extreme > conditions, but I felt that the cooler installation in Ernie's > old 'bird, an air/oil cooler on the bottom surface of the RF > compartment with a rock-guard was an excellent addition on the outlet > of the radiator-cooler. With the 250hp, 4.63:1 gears, towing, and a > lead-foot I never saw alarming temperatures in that rig running 15psi > boost on any mountain I could find. The airflow under that > compartment is excellent, and high-pressure (high-density), enough > that you'll notice the foam insulation is eroded away on those > compartments in many coaches. The air there is pressurized by the air > trying to get around the front of the moving coach, and having to > squeeze between the ground and bumper. The differential in speed > between the coach and the road makes the air quite turbulent, also > good for cooling. > > Try synthetic fluids also, most people on RV forums agree that it > runs cooler in automatic transmissions. > > - Jeff Miller > in Holland, MI > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Johnson" > wrote: > > > > Hello Ernie & Company, > > I appreciate all the suggestions on installing a separate > transmission cooler. From the > > website Tom recommended as cooler source they recommend a two pass > cooler w/ > > dimensions of 22"X24"X1-1/2" plus a fan. There is quite a bit of > space in between frame > > rails about 1/2 way back if you mount it in a horizontal > orientation above the drive shaft > > and in front of retarder. Don't understand comments about the > rediline compartment. > > You guys thinking to cut the compartment walls away and use the > space for the cooler? > > Regards, Eric > > 84FC35SBWL2 > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, erniecarpet@ wrote: > > > > > > I believe the rediline was still in my FC. That is an excellent > place for > > > another air intake and you Cat would love you for the > modification. > > > > > > Ernie Ekberg > > > 83 PT40 > > > Livingston, Montana > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > |
|||
08-11-2006, 16:27
Post: #42
|
|||
|
|||
Overheating 3208 in a 90SP36
I built and installed a custom made transmission cooler by using two six
foot long 3/4" inside diameter fined heat exchanger tubes. I built brackets and stacked the tubes vertically aft of the transmission on the passenger side of the frame. It works so well I think the transmission helps cool the main radiator. I am going to BAJA for a few days, when I get back I will post a picture. I had overheating problems on the old engine so I put a radiator spray system, water injection into the pressure side of the intake manifold, and an auxiliary radiator mounted amidships between the frame with a thermostatically controlled electric fan. The radiator cools the water circulated to the water heater, or the chassis heaters before returning to the engine. Although all these things helped, I still would see temperatures over 200 degrees and would have to use all means available to keep from overheating. It turned out I had overlooked the main problem. I bought the coach with 5000 miles on a fresh rebuilt 3208. It turned out I had either a blown head gasket or a crack somewhere because I was getting exhaust gases in the radiator. This is one thing that is guaranteed to cause overheating. I do have a question for Jeff though, I just installed a complete 3208 250hp drop in my 82 FC and it runs very cool, yet I am only getting 9 PSI of boost. Is there something that is set to low on the engine from RIVA or did Ernie's coach have some tricks done to it? If so what magic might I do to get the boost up to 15psi without using propane, or turning the country side black? Thanks for any help Jim 1982 FCRB Yorba Linda, CA -----Original Message----- From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com [mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Eric Johnson Sent: Friday, August 11, 2006 7:51 PM To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Overheating 3208 in a 90SP36 Hi Jeff, Thanks for the information. If I understand you correctly, Ernie's bird had the additional cooler tied into the oil line returning from the radiator on the way back to the transmission. If this is so, you wouldn't need as big an air cooler since you aren't taking on the whole cooling load from the radiator. Is that right? Regards, Eric 84FC35SBWL2 --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com wrote: > > The turbo engine could use a tranny cooler in more extreme > conditions, but I felt that the cooler installation in Ernie's > old 'bird, an air/oil cooler on the bottom surface of the RF > compartment with a rock-guard was an excellent addition on the outlet > of the radiator-cooler. With the 250hp, 4.63:1 gears, towing, and a > lead-foot I never saw alarming temperatures in that rig running 15psi > boost on any mountain I could find. The airflow under that > compartment is excellent, and high-pressure (high-density), enough > that you'll notice the foam insulation is eroded away on those > compartments in many coaches. The air there is pressurized by the air > trying to get around the front of the moving coach, and having to > squeeze between the ground and bumper. The differential in speed > between the coach and the road makes the air quite turbulent, also > good for cooling. > > Try synthetic fluids also, most people on RV forums agree that it > runs cooler in automatic transmissions. > > - Jeff Miller > in Holland, MI > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > wrote: > > > > Hello Ernie & Company, > > I appreciate all the suggestions on installing a separate > transmission cooler. From the > > website Tom recommended as cooler source they recommend a two pass > cooler w/ > > dimensions of 22"X24"X1-1/2" plus a fan. There is quite a bit of > space in between frame > > rails about 1/2 way back if you mount it in a horizontal > orientation above the drive shaft > > and in front of retarder. Don't understand comments about the > rediline compartment. > > You guys thinking to cut the compartment walls away and use the > space for the cooler? > > Regards, Eric > > 84FC35SBWL2 > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > > > > > > I believe the rediline was still in my FC. That is an excellent > place for > > > another air intake and you Cat would love you for the > modification. > > > > > > Ernie Ekberg > > > 83 PT40 > > > Livingston, Montana > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > |
|||
08-12-2006, 02:39
Post: #43
|
|||
|
|||
Overheating 3208 in a 90SP36
Jim,I realize you are asking a specific person a question but let me
share an experiance with you. I to had a blown head gasket in our 3208T. I replaced both heads, gaskets etc. I also noted that my boost did not register what I thought it should (+/-15) so I asked the CAT guys to check it very closely. They hooked up a meter (mercury manometer I think) to check for sure. It turns out my dash guage is off it kinda "flutters". They assured me the turbp was spooling up and working the way it should. Could you guage be off as well? All I know is the coach runs much better than when we bought it. I can push it to a over 70mph but I NEVER drive it that fast. (fast don't last, offshore experiences) It was imperitive to me to have the motor set up correctly to CAT specs, no telling who was in there before. After, new heads, valve lash, fuel pump check to see if it was opening fully, rpm set to factory specs etc etc. The coach runs great now. ScottB 86FC35RB 4 SALE SC --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Jim" > > I built and installed a custom made transmission cooler by using two six > foot long 3/4" inside diameter fined heat exchanger tubes. I built brackets > and stacked the tubes vertically aft of the transmission on the passenger > side of the frame. It works so well I think the transmission helps cool the > main radiator. I am going to BAJA for a few days, when I get back I will > post a picture. > > I had overheating problems on the old engine so I put a radiator > spray system, water injection into the pressure side of the intake manifold, > and an auxiliary radiator mounted amidships between the frame with a > thermostatically controlled electric fan. The radiator cools the water > circulated to the water heater, or the chassis heaters before returning to > the engine. Although all these things helped, I still would see temperatures > over 200 degrees and would have to use all means available to keep from > overheating. It turned out I had overlooked the main problem. I bought the > coach with 5000 miles on a fresh rebuilt 3208. It turned out I had either a > blown head gasket or a crack somewhere because I was getting exhaust gases > in the radiator. This is one thing that is guaranteed to cause overheating. > > I do have a question for Jeff though, I just installed a complete > 3208 250hp drop in my 82 FC and it runs very cool, yet I am only getting 9 > PSI of boost. Is there something that is set to low on the engine from RIVA > or did Ernie's coach have some tricks done to it? If so what magic might I > do to get the boost up to 15psi without using propane, or turning the > country side black? > > Thanks for any help > > Jim > 1982 FCRB > Yorba Linda, CA > > -----Original Message----- > From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Eric Johnson > Sent: Friday, August 11, 2006 7:51 PM > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Overheating 3208 in a 90SP36 > > Hi Jeff, > Thanks for the information. If I understand you correctly, Ernie's bird had > the additional > cooler tied into the oil line returning from the radiator on the way back to > the > transmission. If this is so, you wouldn't need as big an air cooler since > you aren't taking > on the whole cooling load from the radiator. Is that right? > Regards, Eric > 84FC35SBWL2 > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > > wrote: > > > > The turbo engine could use a tranny cooler in more extreme > > conditions, but I felt that the cooler installation in Ernie's > > old 'bird, an air/oil cooler on the bottom surface of the RF > > compartment with a rock-guard was an excellent addition on the outlet > > of the radiator-cooler. With the 250hp, 4.63:1 gears, towing, and a > > lead-foot I never saw alarming temperatures in that rig running 15psi > > boost on any mountain I could find. The airflow under that > > compartment is excellent, and high-pressure (high-density), enough > > that you'll notice the foam insulation is eroded away on those > > compartments in many coaches. The air there is pressurized by the air > > trying to get around the front of the moving coach, and having to > > squeeze between the ground and bumper. The differential in speed > > between the coach and the road makes the air quite turbulent, also > > good for cooling. > > > > Try synthetic fluids also, most people on RV forums agree that it > > runs cooler in automatic transmissions. > > > > - Jeff Miller > > in Holland, MI > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > > > wrote: > > > > > > Hello Ernie & Company, > > > I appreciate all the suggestions on installing a separate > > transmission cooler. From the > > > website Tom recommended as cooler source they recommend a two pass > > cooler w/ > > > dimensions of 22"X24"X1-1/2" plus a fan. There is quite a bit of > > space in between frame > > > rails about 1/2 way back if you mount it in a horizontal > > orientation above the drive shaft > > > and in front of retarder. Don't understand comments about the > > rediline compartment. > > > You guys thinking to cut the compartment walls away and use the > > space for the cooler? > > > Regards, Eric > > > 84FC35SBWL2 > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > > > > > > > > > I believe the rediline was still in my FC. That is an excellent > > place for > > > > another air intake and you Cat would love you for the > > modification. > > > > > > > > Ernie Ekberg > > > > 83 PT40 > > > > Livingston, Montana > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > |
|||
08-12-2006, 03:38
Post: #44
|
|||
|
|||
Overheating 3208 in a 90SP36
Jim, Into the pressure side of the intake? thats an intercooler, or
have the effect of one. Bigger bang = bigger heat. Gregory O'Connor 94ptRomolandCa--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Jim" wrote: > > > I had overheating problems on the old engine so I put a radiator > spray system, water injection into the pressure side of the intake manifold, > and an auxiliary radiator mounted amidships between the frame with a > thermostatically controlled electric fan. The radiator cools the water > Thanks for any help > > Jim > 1982 FCRB > Yorba Linda, CA > |
|||
08-13-2006, 08:39
Post: #45
|
|||
|
|||
Overheating 3208 in a 90SP36
The Guy that builds our rad tanks says that the inrad cooler is
undersized by at least 30 percent when we rebuilt our rad we bulked up on the rad cooler size and changed to transynd Stephen 77fc35 --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Miller" wrote: > > No. > > With the 250hp in '84, there were some high-ambient- > temp/towing/mountain issues with transmission temperatures, BB > recognized this and offered an upgrade to an external trans cooler like > the '87-'89 had, ... abandoning the in-radiator cooler and adding the > new one to the outlet hose from the radiator. > > Running Allison Transynd (synthetic) or Mobil 1 synthetic will lower > transmission temps, it is better at carrying the heat away from the > transmission. For the transmissions with internal retarders I consider > it a must, ... but that's me. > > Many people have no problems running with a toad and running normal > thransmission temperatures, and the 4.89:1 gears are short enough that > the RPMs are kept fairly high. If you end up with low RPMs and torque- > converter out of lockup for extended periods, you will see higher temps. > > The '84-up models have a transmission temperature gauge, makes it > easier to watch. > > - Jeff Miller > in Holland, MI > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gardner Yeaw" > wrote: > > > > > > If I read the suggestions correctly, in an FC with the 4.88 gears > > and towing something an auxillary trany cooler would almost be a > > must. > > > > Gardner Almost a be. > |
|||
« Next Oldest | Next Newest »
|
User(s) browsing this thread: 2 Guest(s)