Maiden Voyage Complete!!!

[Leroy Eckert]

Your coach may be slightly different than my 1990. Propane: Manual valve on, gas in the tank, and no fire in the reefer or cook top can be caused by two or three things depending on how your coach is configured. 1. You should have an electronics master switch; mine is in the overhead over the pilot. It shuts off a number of items including the LP gas. Since you said your monitor panel is working apparently it is on. Check anyway. My coach has an additional switch near the floor by the fridge that activates the gas solenoid. It shuts off gas at the tank without turning the manual valve. It is in the wrong spot because it can be activated by the leg of the dinette chair. If it is not on, no gas. If all is well, it may take several tries to get the cook top to fire because of air in the lines. 2. It appears that your Sporlan valve is stuck in the fill position. In this position water will run into the tank and eventually overflow on the ground if shore water is not turned off. You will not have shore water or pump water but the pump will run continuously if turned on. With the fill switch in the off position you can use the pump or plug in shore water your choice. Sporlan valve should be under the bed near the pump. Take it apart and clean it and see if that does the trick. 3. My condensate drain for the front a/c is located under the faring of the front wheel well. It is a red tube. 4. I cannot help with the level system. Leroy Eckert 1990 WB-40 Royale Dahlonega, GA Smoke N Mirrors --- On Mon, 6/23/08, coreyg67 wrote: From: coreyg67 Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Maiden Voyage Complete!!! To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, June 23, 2008, 1:52 PM More questions for you guys! I spent the majority of the weekend playing around with the coach to try and correct some problems, as well as to better learn my way around. 1. The propane tank shows to be a little over a 1/2 full, and I verified this by removing the panel in the driver side bay and looking at the guage on the tank itself. Problem is, I cant get the fridge, or the princess cooktop to light. I have checked the main valve at the tank, it is on. The LPG master switch is on, and the detector pad under the kitchen cabinets has both lights green, so I'm assuming this should tell me the valve is open, and all is functioning correctly. I do have a second detector pad mounted to the wall above the dinette, (driver side) but cannot get anything on the pad to light up. any suggestions? 2. I fixed the leak on the freshwater system, but i don't totally understand the operation of the switches in the water/sewage service bay. No matter which way i have the switch flipped for the tank fill, it appears that the tank continues to fill, and I cant get any pressure from the city side of the system. So far I have had very little luck getting any water to pump through the system at all. I'm sure there is an easy method of setting this up properly, but I'm not familiar with this system. 3. The front A/C unit is leaking water in the coach, so I'm assuming the condensate drain is blocked. I have found the drain (i think) for the middle and rear units, but dont know where the drain for the front unit is located? 4. I'm working on the leveling system, and currently waiting for a return call from HWH. I did find the brain for the system last night in the bay and found three blown 15amp fuses. These were the three fuses servicing the battery input, ignition input, and I don't recall the last input. Hopefully if I can locate the cause of the blown fuses, we will finally be able to level the coach. Does anyone have any ideas where I should start to trouble shoot the fuse problem? Thanks again everyone for all the help, this is so much fun to learn my way around with your help!! Corey & Jenni Graham 1996 PT 42' --- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", "Stephen Birtles" wrote: > > > Give me a call 1 888 668 4288 > stephen > dupreeproducts. com > > > > > --- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", "coreyg67" wrote: > > > > More questions. > > > > I have several drawers that will not stay in the locked position, so > every time we turn > > right, the drawers come flying open. Is there any trick to > repairing the guides, or are > > they a replace only type item? > > > > I am also having a problem locating a list of replacement bulbs for > the coach. I have > > thumbed through every manual that came with the bus, and cant find > any light bulb info. > > Is there a list somewhere that contains part numbers for lights? I > need just about every > > bulb in the coach from headlight to taillight and everything in > between. I'm hoping to > > get a big shopping list and go buy all the necessary bulbs at once > rather than make 6 > > trips to the automotive supply house. > > > > Im having a locksmith come out tomorrow to rekey everything and get > multiple keys to > > the coach so that I can have access to everything, then I am going > to spend the > > afternoon cleaning the radiator as I learned in the Temps thread > that is going around. I > > noticed temps around 215 for oil, which seemed high to me, so I > figure a good cleaning > > is in order. > > > > Can anyone tell me what the full power boost level should be? I am > only getting 17psi > > on full throttle pulls up hills, and I really figured I would be > closer to 24-25psi. > > > > Thanks again everyone, sorry Im writing a novel!! > > > > Corey and Jenni Graham > > 1996 PT 42' > > Prosper,TX > > > > > > --- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", Pete Masterson > wrote: > > > > > > > > > On Jun 16, 2008, at 8:22 PM, coreyg67 wrote: > > > > > > > Still no luck on the levelers. I pulled the panel from the front > > > > of the coach, replaced both > > > > fuse #24 and #69 just to see, no luck. Checked all the sensors on > > > > the bay doors, best I > > > > can tell, all are functioning. I did find two that the ground had > > > > broken, but after fixing > > > > ground, no luck still. > > > > Pulled HWH panel from wall, and checked to see if wire was > > > > disconnected, all seems > > > > proper. So now I'm starting to worry. It is rather uncomfortable > > > > walking in and sleeping > > > > in a coach that is on an incline or angle, so I really need to > > > > figure this out. > > > > > > > > I will begin to list some of the other problems. > > > > > > > > 1. no key for safe, > > > > > > Ace key is used (the round ones) -- probably need a locksmith to get > > > in to that one. Try the plastic barrel of a pen -- that was famously > > > used to pick similar locks on bicycle locks. > > > > > > > 2. door lock button for front door will not lock door, although I > > > > can hear it trying. > > > > > > Probably the door isn't correctly aligned with the latch. The > > > solenoid is not very strong and isn't able to overcome even the > least > > > amount of friction. It's possible that something is loose inside the > > > door. You'll have to take off the inside panel to work on that. Be > > > sure the door is tightly closed when you try. > > > > > > > 3. Compartment lock will not lock front curbside compartment, > > > > although I can hear it > > > > trying to. This isnt good, I don't have a key for the bays > > > > > > See a locksmith about making up a set of keys for the bays. The key > > > to the electric hookup cord is the same as the bays on my coach. > > > > > > I had one sticky latch on my coach. You can take off the inside > cover > > > on the bay door (bunch of screws around the perimeter) -- then clean > > > and lubricate the latch mechanism. It ought to work, then (if you > can > > > hear it clicking when you hit the lock button). If there's no sound, > > > then there might be a loose wire. > > > > > > The keyless entry pad will lock the front door (if it was working) > > > and the compartments by hitting the two right-most buttons (5/6 and > > > 7/8) at the same time. Enter your 5 digit code then immediately > press > > > "6" and that should unlock the bay doors (that work). > > > > > > > 4. fridge is not cooling, but freezer works great > > > ?? What kind of fridge? I have a home-style Amana. I was told by the > > > previous owner that it was once recharged with "freon". > > > > > > > 5. Engine break works great most of the time, but then other times > > > > it wont engage. It > > > > will still shift transmission for breaking, but no Jake brake > > > > > > Possibly a wiring problem -- I have some weirdness with my Jake > > > brake. I also suspect that the on-off switch is malfunctioning. > > > During a recent service visit at CCW, they put the computer on the > > > system and got a report of a "problem" on the DD side of the DDEC > > > unit. My Jake brake was apparently rewired to avoid the fault in the > > > DDEC (instead of low-med-high, I only have low and high settings). > > > The "solution" is a new DDEC board -- very expensive. > > > > > > > 6. standard items such as light bulbs, needs servicing all the way > > > > around, rope light has > > > > several burned out bulbs, needs replacing > > > > > > Me too. Some of the "burned out" light bulbs actually were ok, but > > > the ground or something was not good. Just fiddling with the light > > > and fixture brought a couple back to life. The rope lights are > > > probably hopeless. The entire rope would have to be replaced. I > > > mostly only use the one around the base of the bed (at night) and > > > once the novelty wore off, I've rarely turned on the others. > > > > > > > 7. The fresh water drain in the bay with the pumps has a broken > > > > valve, so I cant get good > > > > pressure from the fresh water system. I did get it to pressurize, > > > > by rigging the valve > > > > shut, and it appears everything is in good working order. > > > > > > You don't really need that valve anyway. The main fresh water dump > > > valve is in the sewer dump side -- a white pipe with manual slide > > > valve behind the tall door. > > > > > > My pumps were leaking so I replaced them with a single variable > speed > > > pump and I simplified the plumbing, eliminating the expansion > tank. I > > > re-plumbed the drain valve and installed a brass valve. > > > > > > I got "flair-it" compression fittings from pexconnection. com to > > > transfer from the (gray) polybutylene plumbing to (new) Pex tubing > > > and a "Flair-it" (note the spelling) pex to mpt (pipe thread) > fitting > > > -- then I used "normal" hardware store plumbing parts to re- plumb > the > > > drain valve. > > > > > > > 8. I have no idea how to use the aquahot, and I am a little afraid > > > > to mess something up. > > > > > > > Do you have any hot water? If you do, the aquahot is already > working. > > > To use it: > > > turn on aqua hot switch (labeled hydronic heating) on the dash. That > > > allows the diesel burner to operate. It has no effect on the 2000 > > > watt electric element that works when you're plugged into shore power. > > > > > > Turn on the three AC switches on the dash. (This is non- intuitive: > > > turn on AC for heat.) > > > > > > Set the Dometic thermostats (the rectangular, gray ones) to a higher > > > temperature than ambient. Heat should shortly start coming out of > > > various places. Under the galley and probably under the sofa. There > > > are little radiators all around. On an older coach, some of the fans > > > may not be working. There are also A-H radiators in the basement and > > > a special low-temperature thermostat (minimum setting 40 degrees) on > > > the forward bulkhead inside the first curbside bay. Use in freezing > > > temperature situations to keep the bays from freezing and keep the > > > plumbing (in the basement) from freezing. > > > > > > There are two "regular" thermostats in the bath. One controls an > > > electric toe kick space heater the other controls the aquahot > > > (hydronic) heat. > > > > > > The heat in the bedroom comes out from behind the bed in the side- > > > island arrangement. (controlled by the bedroom thermostat). The > > > various hydronic heaters will have a little or a lot of fan noise, > > > depending. > > > > > > You can check the A-H unit, when the heat is turned on, you should > > > hear the burner start up. There is an exhaust pipe just below the > A-H > > > that will get quite warm when the burner is running. > > > > > > The A-H also has a 2000 watt electric element that gives heat for > > > domestic hot water when the coach is plugged in to shore power or on > > > the generator. The burner (burns diesel) will fire up if there's no > > > electricity. The A-H is a continuous flow water heater, so you never > > > run out of hot water (if everything is set properly). > > > > > > The hot water in the A-H is about 16 gallons, the electric element > > > can't keep up with (say) a shower, so you'll run out of hot at 16 > > > gallons. You can take an endless shower if you have the burner > running. > > > > > > When you're on the road, the A-H gets heat from the engine cooling > > > system to provide hot water and hydronic heating. > > > > > > You should probably contact A-H (they're in the Denver area as I > > > recall) and get a referral to a local A-H service technician. The > A-H > > > should have the burner orifice replaced annually and some other > > > burner compartment cleaning, etc. An A-H technician can explain more > > > about the care and operation of the unit. > > > > > > Be absolutely sure that the coolant (see the overflow container) on > > > the bulkhead behind and to one side of the A-H system) is properly > > > filled. Running the burner without coolant will risk serious > > > (expensive) internal damage to the burner section. In the two years > > > I've had my coach, the A-H has rarely required any additional > > > coolant. Use the same stuff you use for the DD series 60. (Note that > > > there are specific coolant requirements for the Series 60 -- do not > > > use regular automotive coolant.) > > > > > > The burner uses about 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of diesel per hour (if I > > > recall correctly). But it doesn't run all the time so it's not a big > > > drain on your fuel. > > > > > > > > > > > I guess I need to find someone in the DFW area whom is familiar > > > > with Bluebirds, > > > > preferably a 96', and pay them to walk through the entire coach > > > > with me and help with > > > > all my little questions. > > > > > > Go to a Lone Star Birds rally -- there are usually several folks who > > > can help you. > > > > > > Pete Masterson > > > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42 > > > El Sobrante CA > > > aeonix1@ > > > > > >

[Pete Masterson]

Keep in mind that these 'birds are old enough to have had owner mods. You mentioned your tubes were red ... mine were clear plastic. Dunno which was OEM or if neither were. I was under the front edge of the coach (working on another matter -- moisture in one of the headlights) when I noticed the drain tube dangling and saw (through the clear tubing) that it had a couple of feet of water in it. After poking at it and being unable to express any water, I cut off the end that had a black thing that looked like some sort of one-way valve or screen, presumably to keep insects from entering the tube. 

With the "thing" removed, now the tube runs freely and I haven't had any trouble with insects, so far. 

It was on the very end of the tube. It was very obvious.

Sometimes I get leaking inside the coach from my center unit (and sometimes there is condensation running over the edge of the coach). So I know there's some problems with that one. The leaking depends on the slope and lean of the coach at the time of the leak. While up on jacks at CCW, the center AC dumped a considerable bit of moisture in the galley cabinet over the sink. Fortunately it was _exactly_ where we store dish towels -- and they absorbed the moisture. I have the cabinets open to air, now. (But they seem to be dry.)

I planned to remove the cover and clean out that one before our next major trip (in a few weeks). Perhaps I'll just block off the drain holes, if it's possible that the tube causes a leak inside. (I don't really mind the water running down the coach side wall that far back...)

I replaced my front and rear ACs with new ones about 2 years ago...

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 23, 2008, at 12:26 PM, bumpersbird wrote:

Pete,

There is a one way valve on the end on the drain tubes??????

How far up are they?

I tried to clear them and had no luck. My BB GURU told me to block the 

drain up at the roof. I did and it stopped leaking inside the coach.

Now I get AC runoff on the drivers window and sometime a vortex makes 

it hit the windshield as I'm driving, very annoying.

Kurt Horvath

95PT-42 WLWB

10AC