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1988 FC water coach heater question
05-24-2006, 10:04
Post: #1
1988 FC water coach heater question
Bruce,

I can't offer much help, but I'm sure other FC owners will chime in. I have
a 86 PT, and there are plumbing-style gate valves in my engine compartment
that can be manually cranked closed (similar to turning off the water to your
home sprinkler system). This prohibits coolant/antifreeze from circulating
to your heaters, and closes the engine coolant system to just the engine
radiator.

I would think the FC's have a similar system. The winter/summer switch on
my PT opens or closes a Sporlan valve in my engine compartment which allows
the coolant to flow into the chassis heater system, and the "Aux Pump" switch
is a booster flow pump that helps push all that coolant through 70' of coolant
hoses and heater cores.

Look for that Sporlan valve (in-line brass device with a electromagnetic
solenoid on top with two wires)...it can be rebuilt for about $15, or replaced
for about $40. Since it's summer, if your BB has those gate valves, maybe you
can just close off the chassis heaters from the BB's engine cooling system,
and fix the Sporlan valve when it's convenient.

How about some FC's owners...any suggestions or advice?

Best of luck...I can only imagine what it's like competing against chassis
heaters in 100 degree weather with the A/C.

Kevin McKeown
Yorba Linda, CA (about 85 beautiful degrees today!)
1986 38' PT




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Quote this message in a reply
05-24-2006, 13:13
Post: #2
1988 FC water coach heater question
We are on our maiden voyage in the new to us Bird. I will post a story
of the trip later. Right now I have a small problem. I have the blue
Box for our unit but section 10 with all the plumbing and electrical
diagrams is missing. Our coach has a heater (engine hot water) under
the kitchen drawers beside the fridge. We are in AZ. It was 101 today.
My wife went to get something from the drawers and she said she almost
burned herself. I checked and the heater core. It is damn hot. Checked
the switch for summer/winter and it is set on summer. How do I stop
the water from circulating to the heaters? I know the switch is
supposed to activate a solenoid. Where is that solenoid located? Why
couldnt they use a simple Ranco valve? Without the diagram for the
heaters I am having trouble figuring how this works. Are there
seperate lines going to the water heater? For now I would like to just
install a simple gate valve to stop the water from entering the
heater. I havent yet checked to see if the other heaters are also hot.

Thanks: Bruce
Quote this message in a reply
05-24-2006, 13:51
Post: #3
1988 FC water coach heater question
On my 82 FC there are two gate valves in heater hoses up behind the
driver's side wheel near the engine. I assume these shut off the flow
to the coach.

Kerry

82 FC 35
Denver-

-- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "birdshill123"
wrote:
>
> We are on our maiden voyage in the new to us Bird. I will post a story
> of the trip later. Right now I have a small problem. I have the blue
> Box for our unit but section 10 with all the plumbing and electrical
> diagrams is missing. Our coach has a heater (engine hot water) under
> the kitchen drawers beside the fridge. We are in AZ. It was 101 today.
> My wife went to get something from the drawers and she said she almost
> burned herself. I checked and the heater core. It is damn hot. Checked
> the switch for summer/winter and it is set on summer. How do I stop
> the water from circulating to the heaters? I know the switch is
> supposed to activate a solenoid. Where is that solenoid located? Why
> couldnt they use a simple Ranco valve? Without the diagram for the
> heaters I am having trouble figuring how this works. Are there
> seperate lines going to the water heater? For now I would like to just
> install a simple gate valve to stop the water from entering the
> heater. I havent yet checked to see if the other heaters are also hot.
>
> Thanks: Bruce
>
Quote this message in a reply
05-24-2006, 14:29
Post: #4
1988 FC water coach heater question
Under the sink against the back wall is a strip electric heater for
freeze-heat, and under the sink in the kickboard is an electric
heater, sure it isn't one of these?

The summer/winter switch should shut down flow to the heaters, if
not then you need a sporlan valve rebuild kit as it apparently
isn't shutting off, very common.

- Jeff Miller
in Holland, MI


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "birdshill123"
wrote:
>
> We are on our maiden voyage in the new to us Bird. I will post a
story
> of the trip later. Right now I have a small problem. I have the
blue
> Box for our unit but section 10 with all the plumbing and
electrical
> diagrams is missing. Our coach has a heater (engine hot water)
under
> the kitchen drawers beside the fridge. We are in AZ. It was 101
today.
> My wife went to get something from the drawers and she said she
almost
> burned herself. I checked and the heater core. It is damn hot.
Checked
> the switch for summer/winter and it is set on summer. How do I
stop
> the water from circulating to the heaters? I know the switch is
> supposed to activate a solenoid. Where is that solenoid located?
Why
> couldnt they use a simple Ranco valve? Without the diagram for the
> heaters I am having trouble figuring how this works. Are there
> seperate lines going to the water heater? For now I would like to
just
> install a simple gate valve to stop the water from entering the
> heater. I havent yet checked to see if the other heaters are also
hot.
>
> Thanks: Bruce
>
Quote this message in a reply
05-24-2006, 14:31
Post: #5
1988 FC water coach heater question
On my coach (82 FC), there are two standard plumbing valves just like
your home garden hose spigot in what look like heater hoses running
back from the radiator. They are behind the front left wheel. They
cut off all water flow to the back.

The summer/winter switch activates a solenoid that allows water to
flow to the interior heat exchangers. Interestingly enough, even
in "summer" mode, water should still flow back through the lines to
heat the hot water heater for your over-the-road hot water. But
there are two different return lines, one that goes through the heat
exchangers, one that doesn't. That's what the solenoid controls.

I chased the opposite problem on my FC, the interior heat exchangers
would not receive water. I ultimately determined that a wire had
come loose from the back of the winter/summer switch, once
reattached, it worked perfectly.

Good luck.

Scott Forman
82 FC35RB
Memphis

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "birdshill123"
wrote:
>
> We are on our maiden voyage in the new to us Bird. I will post a
story
> of the trip later. Right now I have a small problem. I have the
blue
> Box for our unit but section 10 with all the plumbing and
electrical
> diagrams is missing. Our coach has a heater (engine hot water)
under
> the kitchen drawers beside the fridge. We are in AZ. It was 101
today.
> My wife went to get something from the drawers and she said she
almost
> burned herself. I checked and the heater core. It is damn hot.
Checked
> the switch for summer/winter and it is set on summer. How do I stop
> the water from circulating to the heaters? I know the switch is
> supposed to activate a solenoid. Where is that solenoid located?
Why
> couldnt they use a simple Ranco valve? Without the diagram for the
> heaters I am having trouble figuring how this works. Are there
> seperate lines going to the water heater? For now I would like to
just
> install a simple gate valve to stop the water from entering the
> heater. I havent yet checked to see if the other heaters are also
hot.
>
> Thanks: Bruce
>
Quote this message in a reply
05-24-2006, 16:02
Post: #6
1988 FC water coach heater question
Same basic system on the FC Kevin. As I recall there 3 manual valves, which is
what I had on my FC also. If you close those, the Sporland valves associated
with the "summer/summer" switch won't have any effect. You also won't have any
hot water from the engine when running. So, one of those valves is for the hot
water and maybe you wouldn't want to close that one.

Dick Hayden - '87 PT 38 - Lake Stevens, WA
----- Original Message -----
From: krminyl@...
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 7:04 PM
Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] 1988 FC water coach heater question


Bruce,

I can't offer much help, but I'm sure other FC owners will chime in. I have
a 86 PT, and there are plumbing-style gate valves in my engine compartment
that can be manually cranked closed (similar to turning off the water to your
home sprinkler system). This prohibits coolant/antifreeze from circulating
to your heaters, and closes the engine coolant system to just the engine
radiator.

I would think the FC's have a similar system. The winter/summer switch on
my PT opens or closes a Sporlan valve in my engine compartment which allows
the coolant to flow into the chassis heater system, and the "Aux Pump" switch
is a booster flow pump that helps push all that coolant through 70' of
coolant
hoses and heater cores.

Look for that Sporlan valve (in-line brass device with a electromagnetic
solenoid on top with two wires)...it can be rebuilt for about $15, or replaced
for about $40. Since it's summer, if your BB has those gate valves, maybe
you
can just close off the chassis heaters from the BB's engine cooling system,
and fix the Sporlan valve when it's convenient.

How about some FC's owners...any suggestions or advice?

Best of luck...I can only imagine what it's like competing against chassis
heaters in 100 degree weather with the A/C.

Kevin McKeown
Yorba Linda, CA (about 85 beautiful degrees today!)
1986 38' PT




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Quote this message in a reply
05-24-2006, 16:28
Post: #7
1988 FC water coach heater question
That's right Dick.

What I did was to cut off the 1" lines at the radiator (two) and the one
up front forward of the co-pilot seat. My concern was the original 1"
lines would spring a leak and cause problems. It was to be a future
project but the coach was sold. Just run the generator for 20 minutes
and you will have hot water for the coach and if plugged in you get the
same result...providing everything is in working order. You can always
tackle the engine water circulation/heating system project in the future.

Curt Sprenger 1987 PT38, Anaheim Hills, Calif.



Richard Hayden wrote:

> Same basic system on the FC Kevin. As I recall there 3 manual valves,
> which is what I had on my FC also. If you close those, the Sporland
> valves associated with the "summer/summer" switch won't have any
> effect. You also won't have any hot water from the engine when
> running. So, one of those valves is for the hot water and maybe you
> wouldn't want to close that one.
>
> Dick Hayden - '87 PT 38 - Lake Stevens, WA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: krminyl@...
> To:
> WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 7:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] 1988 FC water coach heater question
>
>
> Bruce,
>
> I can't offer much help, but I'm sure other FC owners will chime
> in. I have
> a 86 PT, and there are plumbing-style gate valves in my engine
> compartment
> that can be manually cranked closed (similar to turning off the
> water to your
> home sprinkler system). This prohibits coolant/antifreeze from
> circulating
> to your heaters, and closes the engine coolant system to just the
> engine
> radiator.
>
> I would think the FC's have a similar system. The winter/summer
> switch on
> my PT opens or closes a Sporlan valve in my engine compartment
> which allows
> the coolant to flow into the chassis heater system, and the "Aux
> Pump" switch
> is a booster flow pump that helps push all that coolant through 70'
> of coolant
> hoses and heater cores.
>
> Look for that Sporlan valve (in-line brass device with a
> electromagnetic
> solenoid on top with two wires)...it can be rebuilt for about $15,
> or replaced
> for about $40. Since it's summer, if your BB has those gate valves,
> maybe you
> can just close off the chassis heaters from the BB's engine cooling
> system,
> and fix the Sporlan valve when it's convenient.
>
> How about some FC's owners...any suggestions or advice?
>
> Best of luck...I can only imagine what it's like competing against
> chassis
> heaters in 100 degree weather with the A/C.
>
> Kevin McKeown
> Yorba Linda, CA (about 85 beautiful degrees today!)
> 1986 38' PT
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS Recreational
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vehicles<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Recr...ation\
al+vehicles&w2=Recreational+vehicle+financing&w3=Recreational+vehicle+repair&w4=\
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Quote this message in a reply
05-24-2006, 17:28
Post: #8
1988 FC water coach heater question
Twenty minutes to get hot water - that's exactly what I it took on ours, both
the old one and this new (to us) one.

Dick Hayden - '87 PT 38 - Lake Stevens, WA

----- Original Message -----
From: Curt Sprenger
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 9:28 PM
Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] 1988 FC water coach heater question


That's right Dick.

What I did was to cut off the 1" lines at the radiator (two) and the one
up front forward of the co-pilot seat. My concern was the original 1"
lines would spring a leak and cause problems. It was to be a future
project but the coach was sold. Just run the generator for 20 minutes
and you will have hot water for the coach and if plugged in you get the
same result...providing everything is in working order. You can always
tackle the engine water circulation/heating system project in the future.

Curt Sprenger 1987 PT38, Anaheim Hills, Calif.



Richard Hayden wrote:

> Same basic system on the FC Kevin. As I recall there 3 manual valves,
> which is what I had on my FC also. If you close those, the Sporland
> valves associated with the "summer/summer" switch won't have any
> effect. You also won't have any hot water from the engine when
> running. So, one of those valves is for the hot water and maybe you
> wouldn't want to close that one.
>
> Dick Hayden - '87 PT 38 - Lake Stevens, WA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: krminyl@...
> To:
> WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 7:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] 1988 FC water coach heater question
>
>
> Bruce,
>
> I can't offer much help, but I'm sure other FC owners will chime
> in. I have
> a 86 PT, and there are plumbing-style gate valves in my engine
> compartment
> that can be manually cranked closed (similar to turning off the
> water to your
> home sprinkler system). This prohibits coolant/antifreeze from
> circulating
> to your heaters, and closes the engine coolant system to just the
> engine
> radiator.
>
> I would think the FC's have a similar system. The winter/summer
> switch on
> my PT opens or closes a Sporlan valve in my engine compartment
> which allows
> the coolant to flow into the chassis heater system, and the "Aux
> Pump" switch
> is a booster flow pump that helps push all that coolant through 70'
> of coolant
> hoses and heater cores.
>
> Look for that Sporlan valve (in-line brass device with a
> electromagnetic
> solenoid on top with two wires)...it can be rebuilt for about $15,
> or replaced
> for about $40. Since it's summer, if your BB has those gate valves,
> maybe you
> can just close off the chassis heaters from the BB's engine cooling
> system,
> and fix the Sporlan valve when it's convenient.
>
> How about some FC's owners...any suggestions or advice?
>
> Best of luck...I can only imagine what it's like competing against
> chassis
> heaters in 100 degree weather with the A/C.
>
> Kevin McKeown
> Yorba Linda, CA (about 85 beautiful degrees today!)
> 1986 38' PT
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS Recreational
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ehicles&w2=Recreational+vehicle+financing&w3=Recreational+vehicle+repair&w4=Recr\
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Quote this message in a reply
05-25-2006, 01:47
Post: #9
1988 FC water coach heater question
Bruce,

Good to here the new Bird is running strong.
I will attempt to answer a few of your questions.
I agree with all the following posting responses.
But would like to add: The Turbo wines, watch the gages, Pyro
and boost and listen to the wine. You will get the feel for it.

There are three Red handled gate valves. two under the drivers seat
floor, this will turn off all hot coolant in the loop through the
rear of the coach. Another on the passenger side to turn off the
coolant to the front driver/passenger chassis heater. There is also
a solenoid valve in this loop, switch is on dash labeled (Front heat)
There are two Sporlan valves in the rear loop.
One is under the rear street side bumper, Reach up and feel the
grease and road dirt, Have someone press the winter/sumer switch.
You should hear the click and feel the valve open close. Do the same
with the other sporlan valve. This one took me a long time to locate.
It is rearward of the two gate valves, high above the left front
tire wrapped inside a bundle of wire and hosing. Again you can hear
the click and feel the valve operate. These two valves need a repair
kit, the coolant badly deteriorates the rubber diaphrams. WHen you
fine a supplier for the Sporlan repair Kits # KS-BR18, purchase at
least three, you will need them. The valve is part # K-BR184.

Jeff is correct on the brakes, They do use a lot of air. Air up
stomp and hold the brake pedal, for a minute or two, After the
initial air loss, a leak will show on the gage.
Your to do repair list is starting.

Bill 88 FC Mihcigan


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "birdshill123"
wrote:
>
> We are on our maiden voyage in the new to us Bird. I will post a
story
> of the trip later. Right now I have a small problem. I have the
blue
> Box for our unit but section 10 with all the plumbing and
electrical
> diagrams is missing. Our coach has a heater (engine hot water)
under
> the kitchen drawers beside the fridge. We are in AZ. It was 101
today.
> My wife went to get something from the drawers and she said she
almost
> burned herself. I checked and the heater core. It is damn hot.
Checked
> the switch for summer/winter and it is set on summer. How do I
stop
> the water from circulating to the heaters? I know the switch is
> supposed to activate a solenoid. Where is that solenoid located?
Why
> couldnt they use a simple Ranco valve? Without the diagram for the
> heaters I am having trouble figuring how this works. Are there
> seperate lines going to the water heater? For now I would like to
just
> install a simple gate valve to stop the water from entering the
> heater. I havent yet checked to see if the other heaters are also
hot.
>
> Thanks: Bruce
>
Quote this message in a reply
05-25-2006, 02:06
Post: #10
1988 FC water coach heater question
BRuce,

Another thought:

If you are curious as to what a Sporlan Valve looks like.
The fresh water tank fill Sporlan valve is located under the
bed, left of the hotwater tank, near the fresh water pump.
THis also will need cleaned or repaired eventually.

Bill 88 FC


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "birdshill123"
wrote:
>
> We are on our maiden voyage in the new to us Bird. I will post a
story
> of the trip later. Right now I have a small problem. I have the
blue
> Box for our unit but section 10 with all the plumbing and
electrical
> diagrams is missing. Our coach has a heater (engine hot water)
under
> the kitchen drawers beside the fridge. We are in AZ. It was 101
today.
> My wife went to get something from the drawers and she said she
almost
> burned herself. I checked and the heater core. It is damn hot.
Checked
> the switch for summer/winter and it is set on summer. How do I
stop
> the water from circulating to the heaters? I know the switch is
> supposed to activate a solenoid. Where is that solenoid located?
Why
> couldnt they use a simple Ranco valve? Without the diagram for the
> heaters I am having trouble figuring how this works. Are there
> seperate lines going to the water heater? For now I would like to
just
> install a simple gate valve to stop the water from entering the
> heater. I havent yet checked to see if the other heaters are also
hot.
>
> Thanks: Bruce
>
Quote this message in a reply
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