30 AMP OPS

[Pete Masterson]

Bill,

This is great information --- and makes good sense to me. I really
appreciate it as it didn't make sense to me that two 30 amp breakers
would trip with 16 amps load on each... or 30 and 1, etc.

I'll have to poke around at the cook top to see what voltage it
operates with (I assumed that it was 220 as it's a 2-burner version
of a 4 burner cook top I had prior to converting my home to a gas
range). I suppose, however, that it could be 110v as it only has half
(or less) the demand of the 4 burner home version. Hopefully I can
find the papers on the cook top in the blue box as the manufacturer's
plate (if it is present) is inaccessible without disassembling stuff.

I have a strong respect for electrical devices and so far I have
successfully avoided completing any circuits with any parts of my
body involved --- and I plan to keep it that way!

Pete Masterson
aeonix1@...
'95 Bluebird Wanderlodge WBDA 4203
El Sobrante, CA




On Aug 13, 2006, at 10:20 AM, Wilhelmus Schreurs wrote:

> Hi all:
>
> The wiring that we have in our homes and also in our BB is all
> single phase wiring. Very rarly would one find 3 phase wiring
> other than in either a commercial or industrial application.
> We use single phase power, with two legs.
>
>
> “with your 30amp 220 volt breaker at the house you have 30 amp
> available on each leg (red,black) but not at the same time, you can
> draw 30 amps through that breaker total. Ie: 30 on one leg and
> zero on the other, or 15 and 15, or run a total of 30*110 =- 3300
> watts. By design the breaker will trip if you draw more than 30
> amps in any combination.
>
> This is false. In a 220 volt circuit, in which you have 2 legs,
> it is possible to draw a total of 30 amps * 220 volts for a total
> of 6600 watts. HOWEVER, each LEG is only designed to carry a total
> of 30 amps * 110 volts or 3300 watts., so if one leg is overloaded
> it will trip both breakers.
<snip>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[jwasnewski]

I forgot a couple of things. When only the 30amp aux system is on shore
power my leg 2 operates a/c front and rear, the water heater, and not
the center a/c. The inverter/charger does not go into the charging
mode but goes into the invert mode and apparently operates the interior
110v lights and outletsbecause they work fine. The 12v monitors,
tanks, clock, alarms etc, electrical master controlled do not operate
off leg 2 aux power, and neither does the reefer, it goes to LP. So, it
appears that in a pinch with only the aux power plugged to shore power,
it's a one night deal.

Thanks,

Leroy Eckert
1990-WB40
Niceville, FL

[Gregory OConnor]

Bill, thanks for clearing that up. Jeff M also pointed out that the
50amp220 provides 100 amp110. I'm gonna turn all the lights on at
home to see if I have 800amps on my 400amp220 box.

Bill asked twice the risk of tripping a breaker" as you have more power
available to use.>

when you tie both legs of your panel to the same 110 30 amp, all 110
in the bus will run past the 30 amp breaker. Things like chargers
and hotwaterheaters and a fridge that auto on and off are hard to
manage. 30 amp hookup limiting half of the bus is a design and a
cheater is a cheater. If you pay for 30 amps and use another leg that
cheater is a theifer.

Bill stated can flow around the windings in some cases>

Dont know that it does or can but I dont think it is good to open any
220 circuit when you only have 110 avaliable. I have seen a cooktop
control dial bleed electricity to the dead leg and act like a dimmer
switch to all the appliances on that leg. this could have the same
results that John warns us of .

I had an instance where one leg went out in a rental. When the
electric cooktop220 was turned on and all the lights on the other leg
dimmed on via the range control.

ground/neutral connection. In our homes, the ground and neutral are
bonded together, and in our coaches they are not. When you are tied
into the power system, the bonding will take place at the park
receptacle.> Why are they not bonded together in the bus? I would
have never known this if you didnt point it out. (being
unknowledgable can really get someone killed)

GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandCa
accomplished and certified ditch digger



--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wilhelmus Schreurs
wrote:
>
> Hi all:
>
> The wiring that we have in our homes and also in our BB is all
single phase wiring. Very rarly would one find 3 phase wiring other
than in either a commercial or industrial application.
> We use single phase power, with two legs.
>
>
> "with your 30amp 220 volt breaker at the house you have 30 amp
available on each leg (red,black) but not at the same time, you can
draw 30 amps through that breaker total. Ie: 30 on one leg and zero
on the other, or 15 and 15, or run a total of 30*110 =- 3300 watts.
By design the breaker will trip if you draw more than 30 amps in any
combination.
>
> This is false. In a 220 volt circuit, in which you have 2 legs,
it is possible to draw a total of 30 amps * 220 volts for a total of
6600 watts. HOWEVER, each LEG is only designed to carry a total of
30 amps * 110 volts or 3300 watts., so if one leg is overloaded it
will trip both breakers.
>
> Pete: you mention about a cheater cable, well there are all sorts
of types of cheater cables, you need to know the type that you
require.
> Ie: if you have a cheater cable that you can connect into two 30
amp circuits at a trailer park, it is possible to get 30 amps with
220 volts, or in other words, if your stove is 220 volts you can use
it. The problem here is, it might be possible to have both 30 amps
on the same leg, and this would give you 60 amps * 110 volts, but no
220 volts.
> : Even if you can hook both legs of the coach up to a pedestal at
a park, the park receptacles must be on different legs for you to get
220 volt in the coach for ac and such. Cheaters tie both sides of
the coach panel together into a common leg. You end up with twice
the risk of tripping a breaker. 220 volt applieances that get turned
on may act like a cheater as current may flow around the windings and
or rheostants
>
> As I mentioned above, cheaters can tie both sides of the coach
panel together, but it might not as well, this depends on the park
receptacle if they are on separate legs or not. I cannot understand
the statement about "you end up with twice the risk of tripping a
breaker" as you have more power available to use. Also maybe Greg
can shed some light on where the current can flow around the windings
in some cases.
>
> : to trip a 50 amp breaker you can draw 51 amps off one leg etc
etc".
> The circuit breakers we have in our homes, and what we use in our
BB, are called "thermal breakers". They trip with a function of
heat, which is produced by amperage. Different types of breakers can
have a different curve characteristic to them, ie: for a 50 amp
breaker it might take 52 amps at 3 or 4 minutes to trip, 60 amps – 30
seconds, 75 amps instant. Other breaker could be slower or faster.
>
> : Typically, the 110 volt light over the table use a "dimmer"
switch. In the "maximum dim" position, the light will not
illuminate. Yet, should one come in contact with the hot wire of the
light fixture, a nasty/possibility fatal surprise awaits. 110v is
present. The dimmer has simply temporarily reduced the amperage
below the amount required for illumination, but the 110
volt "electrical potential" is fully available, just like a duplex
(plug in) wall socket.
> John has a very good point here, and did you know that being
unknowledgable can really get you, or someone else killed
>
> One main difference between our homes and our BB coaches is the
ground/neutral connection. In our homes, the ground and neutral are
bonded together, and in our coaches they are not. When you are tied
into the power system, the bonding will take place at the park
receptacle. So when you are changing any of your light switches or
receptacles, pay particular attention that the ground and neutral
does not touch or get mixed up, if it does, the body/chassis of your
coach could become live.
>
> Good point John: even as an accomplished and certified
electrician, I would not want to mix and match power sources either.
>
> Pete: If you have 30 amps 110 volts coming into your coach, and
you only want to use one burner of your stove, assuming your stove
burner is 110 volts, go for it. You might have to reduce other loads
on in the coach for the time you are using the burner.
>
> Gosh I love this electrical stuff.
>
> Bill
> 84FC35SB
> Terrace, BC
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Now you can have a huge leap forward in email: get the new Yahoo!
Mail.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[John Suter]

Hi again, Leroy.

We probably need to modify a few minor items.
Generically, the 50 amp male shore connection is
110-120v, not quite the same 220-240v as you likely
have in your home at your electric dryer and that is
typically why the male-female plugs for the dryer are
different from the ones you find in the Bird;
although, if the pedestal legs feeding the Bird are
out of phase with one another, 220-240V will be
present when measured from leg 1 to leg 2. (This "out
of phase" condition which results in 240V should not
be confused with "3-phase, 208V," although the
engineering concept is similar; 3-phase equipment,
mostly motors, must be specifically engineered to run
on three-phase current). Nevertheless, I am unaware
of any Birds 2004 or earlier that require, or use,
240V for appliances, although the generator will/does
produce it.

Your hypothetical #1, accomplishes what the normally
BB-provided 30A-male to 50A-female connector is
designed for, except it is internally wired to feed
both legs of 50A male and thus both legs of the main
panel, as long as no power is detected at the aux
connection. On many Birds, when power is detected at
the aux, one leg of the main panel will automatically
transfer to become powered solely by the aux feed,
while the other remains unchanged and fed thru the 50A
cord, however it is fed.

> 1. Purchase a 240 female to fit my permanent 240
> male shore cable
> and wire one leg in it to a 30amp shore plug. That
> should give me 30
> amps on leg 1 then plug my 30amp aux connection into
> either another
> 30amp shore power or 20amp shore power to get 30amps
> or 20 amps
> respectively on leg 2.

Best regards,

John Suter


--- jwasnewski wrote:

> Hi Folks: Thanks to all of you who responded to my
> inquiry. I think
> each of you have it correct, now I would like a
> double check,
> please. Been out at the bus for cleaning,
> polishing, inspecting
> etc. I studied my maunal on 30 AMP ops. It's
> rather vague, but here
> is what I think.
> I have a 30 amp aux connection which powers my Leg
> 2. My 50amp 240
> permanent connector powers everything, both 120
> legs. That should be
> 100amps. The manual calls for having adaptors which
> I do not have.
> I think I can do the following:
>
> 1. Purchase a 240 female to fit my permanent 240
> male shore cable
> and wire one leg in it to a 30amp shore plug. That
> should give me 30
> amps on leg 1 then plug my 30amp aux connection into
> either another
> 30amp shore power or 20amp shore power to get 30amps
> or 20 amps
> respectively on leg 2. In my configuration, I think
> it is the only
> way to get 2 legs of any kind of power. My
> inverter/charger runs off
> leg 1. Then I gotta really manage power in the
> summer.
>
> 2. The 240amp female has a ground, a
> white(neutral) X & Y
> connections representing 2 120 legs, I think. I
> would need to
> determine whether X or Y on my permanent shore power
> cable powers leg
> 1 in the bus when I wire it to a 30 amp plug.
>
> I do not plan to use this configuration but I would
> like to be ready
> to do so if needed.
>
> I handle 12v very well, 120v not as well. Does the
> foregoing sound
> correct?
>
> So that very faint humming noise I here when
> everyone is asleep is
> the transfer switch. I was about to go searching for
> the source. Now
> I won't.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Leroy Eckert
> 1990WB40
> Niceville, FL
>
>
>
>
>
>


__________________________________________________
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[Wilhelmus Schreurs]

greg: I think we are pretty well all on the same wavelength. makes for good
discussion for sure. I have been a bus nut for over 3 decades and I have seen
some terrible looking wiring jobs, we are somewhat different here as this is a
good factory built unit, and many people here to help us keep the coach in good
repair.

Bill
84FC35SB
Terrace, B.C.

Gregory OConnor wrote:
Bill, thanks for clearing that up. Jeff M also pointed out that the
50amp220 provides 100 amp110. I'm gonna turn all the lights on at
home to see if I have 800amps on my 400amp220 box.

Bill asked twice the risk of tripping a breaker" as you have more power
available to use.>

when you tie both legs of your panel to the same 110 30 amp, all 110
in the bus will run past the 30 amp breaker. Things like chargers
and hotwaterheaters and a fridge that auto on and off are hard to
manage. 30 amp hookup limiting half of the bus is a design and a
cheater is a cheater. If you pay for 30 amps and use another leg that
cheater is a theifer.

Bill stated can flow around the windings in some cases>

Dont know that it does or can but I dont think it is good to open any
220 circuit when you only have 110 avaliable. I have seen a cooktop
control dial bleed electricity to the dead leg and act like a dimmer
switch to all the appliances on that leg. this could have the same
results that John warns us of .

I had an instance where one leg went out in a rental. When the
electric cooktop220 was turned on and all the lights on the other leg
dimmed on via the range control.

ground/neutral connection. In our homes, the ground and neutral are
bonded together, and in our coaches they are not. When you are tied
into the power system, the bonding will take place at the park
receptacle.> Why are they not bonded together in the bus? I would
have never known this if you didnt point it out. (being
unknowledgable can really get someone killed)

GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandCa
accomplished and certified ditch digger

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wilhelmus Schreurs
wrote:
>
> Hi all:
>
> The wiring that we have in our homes and also in our BB is all
single phase wiring. Very rarly would one find 3 phase wiring other
than in either a commercial or industrial application.
> We use single phase power, with two legs.
>
>
> "with your 30amp 220 volt breaker at the house you have 30 amp
available on each leg (red,black) but not at the same time, you can
draw 30 amps through that breaker total. Ie: 30 on one leg and zero
on the other, or 15 and 15, or run a total of 30*110 =- 3300 watts.
By design the breaker will trip if you draw more than 30 amps in any
combination.
>
> This is false. In a 220 volt circuit, in which you have 2 legs,
it is possible to draw a total of 30 amps * 220 volts for a total of
6600 watts. HOWEVER, each LEG is only designed to carry a total of
30 amps * 110 volts or 3300 watts., so if one leg is overloaded it
will trip both breakers.
>
> Pete: you mention about a cheater cable, well there are all sorts
of types of cheater cables, you need to know the type that you
require.
> Ie: if you have a cheater cable that you can connect into two 30
amp circuits at a trailer park, it is possible to get 30 amps with
220 volts, or in other words, if your stove is 220 volts you can use
it. The problem here is, it might be possible to have both 30 amps
on the same leg, and this would give you 60 amps * 110 volts, but no
220 volts.
> : Even if you can hook both legs of the coach up to a pedestal at
a park, the park receptacles must be on different legs for you to get
220 volt in the coach for ac and such. Cheaters tie both sides of
the coach panel together into a common leg. You end up with twice
the risk of tripping a breaker. 220 volt applieances that get turned
on may act like a cheater as current may flow around the windings and
or rheostants
>
> As I mentioned above, cheaters can tie both sides of the coach
panel together, but it might not as well, this depends on the park
receptacle if they are on separate legs or not. I cannot understand
the statement about "you end up with twice the risk of tripping a
breaker" as you have more power available to use. Also maybe Greg
can shed some light on where the current can flow around the windings
in some cases.
>
> : to trip a 50 amp breaker you can draw 51 amps off one leg etc
etc".
> The circuit breakers we have in our homes, and what we use in our
BB, are called "thermal breakers". They trip with a function of
heat, which is produced by amperage. Different types of breakers can
have a different curve characteristic to them, ie: for a 50 amp
breaker it might take 52 amps at 3 or 4 minutes to trip, 60 amps – 30
seconds, 75 amps instant. Other breaker could be slower or faster.
>
> : Typically, the 110 volt light over the table use a "dimmer"
switch. In the "maximum dim" position, the light will not
illuminate. Yet, should one come in contact with the hot wire of the
light fixture, a nasty/possibility fatal surprise awaits. 110v is
present. The dimmer has simply temporarily reduced the amperage
below the amount required for illumination, but the 110
volt "electrical potential" is fully available, just like a duplex
(plug in) wall socket.
> John has a very good point here, and did you know that being
unknowledgable can really get you, or someone else killed
>
> One main difference between our homes and our BB coaches is the
ground/neutral connection. In our homes, the ground and neutral are
bonded together, and in our coaches they are not. When you are tied
into the power system, the bonding will take place at the park
receptacle. So when you are changing any of your light switches or
receptacles, pay particular attention that the ground and neutral
does not touch or get mixed up, if it does, the body/chassis of your
coach could become live.
>
> Good point John: even as an accomplished and certified
electrician, I would not want to mix and match power sources either.
>
> Pete: If you have 30 amps 110 volts coming into your coach, and
you only want to use one burner of your stove, assuming your stove
burner is 110 volts, go for it. You might have to reduce other loads
on in the coach for the time you are using the burner.
>
> Gosh I love this electrical stuff.
>
> Bill
> 84FC35SB
> Terrace, BC
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Now you can have a huge leap forward in email: get the new Yahoo!
Mail.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






---------------------------------
Now you can have a huge leap forward in email: get the new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Wilhelmus Schreurs]

Pete:
you going to the Beullton rally in late October??
Bill

Pete Masterson wrote:
Bill,

This is great information --- and makes good sense to me. I really
appreciate it as it didn't make sense to me that two 30 amp breakers
would trip with 16 amps load on each... or 30 and 1, etc.



---------------------------------
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---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Wilhelmus Schreurs]

Leroy, you pretty well got it BUT one big thing to remember, if you make up your
cable yourself, you gonna have one female with two males. That second male
could be the dangerous one, if for some reason the park receptacle is wired
wrong, you will have 120 volts on the male plug.
Something to think about.

Bill

jwasnewski wrote:
Hi Folks: Thanks to all of you who responded to my inquiry. I think
each of you have it correct, now I would like a double check,
please. Been out at the bus for cleaning, polishing, inspecting
etc. I studied my maunal on 30 AMP ops. It's rather vague, but here
is what I think.
I have a 30 amp aux connection which powers my Leg 2. My 50amp 240
permanent connector powers everything, both 120 legs. That should be
100amps. The manual calls for having adaptors which I do not have.
I think I can do the following:

1. Purchase a 240 female to fit my permanent 240 male shore cable
and wire one leg in it to a 30amp shore plug. That should give me 30
amps on leg 1 then plug my 30amp aux connection into either another
30amp shore power or 20amp shore power to get 30amps or 20 amps
respectively on leg 2. In my configuration, I think it is the only
way to get 2 legs of any kind of power. My inverter/charger runs off
leg 1. Then I gotta really manage power in the summer.

2. The 240amp female has a ground, a white(neutral) X & Y
connections representing 2 120 legs, I think. I would need to
determine whether X or Y on my permanent shore power cable powers leg
1 in the bus when I wire it to a 30 amp plug.

I do not plan to use this configuration but I would like to be ready
to do so if needed.

I handle 12v very well, 120v not as well. Does the foregoing sound
correct?

So that very faint humming noise I here when everyone is asleep is
the transfer switch. I was about to go searching for the source. Now
I won't.

Thanks again.

Leroy Eckert
1990WB40
Niceville, FL






---------------------------------
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Voice

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[The Squires]

Leroy,

The dogbone adapters that we usually use for RVs actually short both hot 50A
blades to the one hot on the 30A side. That way you have 110 to both sides.
You have to manage the current in the RV like not running both A/C units at
the same time. I learned this the hard way when making a 100' extension
cord when the RV is parked at the house.

Jimmy
-----Original Message-----
From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of jwasnewski
Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2006 3:05 PM
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] 30 AMP OPS


Hi Folks: Thanks to all of you who responded to my inquiry. I think
each of you have it correct, now I would like a double check,
please. Been out at the bus for cleaning, polishing, inspecting
etc. I studied my maunal on 30 AMP ops. It's rather vague, but here
is what I think.
I have a 30 amp aux connection which powers my Leg 2. My 50amp 240
permanent connector powers everything, both 120 legs. That should be
100amps. The manual calls for having adaptors which I do not have.
I think I can do the following:

1. Purchase a 240 female to fit my permanent 240 male shore cable
and wire one leg in it to a 30amp shore plug. That should give me 30
amps on leg 1 then plug my 30amp aux connection into either another
30amp shore power or 20amp shore power to get 30amps or 20 amps
respectively on leg 2. In my configuration, I think it is the only
way to get 2 legs of any kind of power. My inverter/charger runs off
leg 1. Then I gotta really manage power in the summer.

2. The 240amp female has a ground, a white(neutral) X & Y
connections representing 2 120 legs, I think. I would need to
determine whether X or Y on my permanent shore power cable powers leg
1 in the bus when I wire it to a 30 amp plug.

I do not plan to use this configuration but I would like to be ready
to do so if needed.

I handle 12v very well, 120v not as well. Does the foregoing sound
correct?

So that very faint humming noise I here when everyone is asleep is
the transfer switch. I was about to go searching for the source. Now
I won't.

Thanks again.

Leroy Eckert
1990WB40
Niceville, FL






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[erniecarpet@...]

In a message dated 8/13/2006 7:01:11 PM Central Daylight Time,
jwasnewski@... writes:


> This forum is like Fox news. You report, we decide.

We will keep doing our part- giving out information that we have learned or
gleaned from others for FREE. No subscription required!!
Ernie Ekberg
83 PT40
Livingston, Montana



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Leroy Eckert]

John:

Thanks, If I understand correctly the 50amp factory male has 4 wires, two legs,
one shared neutral and a ground. If the 30 amp to 50 amp female were to power
both bus legs the female 50 amp wiring connection would be ground, neutral and
black ( 3rd wire) split to the two other posts. That would give me 15 amps per
leg? Like I said I have never really studied 110 and phases and such. Guess I
better get at it, or purchase a 50amp to 30 amp connector so that I can get 2
legs in my configuration if I ever need it. It really doesn't make sense for
leg one to go away if the aux power leg two is sensed but it appears that is
the way it is wired. Thanks for the help. If you can figure it out I think iI
can wire it.

Leroy Eckert
1990WB40
Niceville, FL








----- Original Message -----
From: John Suter
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2006 4:15 PM
Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] 30 AMP OPS


Hi again, Leroy.

We probably need to modify a few minor items.
Generically, the 50 amp male shore connection is
110-120v, not quite the same 220-240v as you likely
have in your home at your electric dryer and that is
typically why the male-female plugs for the dryer are
different from the ones you find in the Bird;
although, if the pedestal legs feeding the Bird are
out of phase with one another, 220-240V will be
present when measured from leg 1 to leg 2. (This "out
of phase" condition which results in 240V should not
be confused with "3-phase, 208V," although the
engineering concept is similar; 3-phase equipment,
mostly motors, must be specifically engineered to run
on three-phase current). Nevertheless, I am unaware
of any Birds 2004 or earlier that require, or use,
240V for appliances, although the generator will/does
produce it.

Your hypothetical #1, accomplishes what the normally
BB-provided 30A-male to 50A-female connector is
designed for, except it is internally wired to feed
both legs of 50A male and thus both legs of the main
panel, as long as no power is detected at the aux
connection. On many Birds, when power is detected at
the aux, one leg of the main panel will automatically
transfer to become powered solely by the aux feed,
while the other remains unchanged and fed thru the 50A
cord, however it is fed.

> 1. Purchase a 240 female to fit my permanent 240
> male shore cable
> and wire one leg in it to a 30amp shore plug. That
> should give me 30
> amps on leg 1 then plug my 30amp aux connection into
> either another
> 30amp shore power or 20amp shore power to get 30amps
> or 20 amps
> respectively on leg 2.

Best regards,

John Suter


--- jwasnewski wrote:

> Hi Folks: Thanks to all of you who responded to my
> inquiry. I think
> each of you have it correct, now I would like a
> double check,
> please. Been out at the bus for cleaning,
> polishing, inspecting
> etc. I studied my maunal on 30 AMP ops. It's
> rather vague, but here
> is what I think.
> I have a 30 amp aux connection which powers my Leg
> 2. My 50amp 240
> permanent connector powers everything, both 120
> legs. That should be
> 100amps. The manual calls for having adaptors which
> I do not have.
> I think I can do the following:
>
> 1. Purchase a 240 female to fit my permanent 240
> male shore cable
> and wire one leg in it to a 30amp shore plug. That
> should give me 30
> amps on leg 1 then plug my 30amp aux connection into
> either another
> 30amp shore power or 20amp shore power to get 30amps
> or 20 amps
> respectively on leg 2. In my configuration, I think
> it is the only
> way to get 2 legs of any kind of power. My
> inverter/charger runs off
> leg 1. Then I gotta really manage power in the
> summer.
>
> 2. The 240amp female has a ground, a
> white(neutral) X & Y
> connections representing 2 120 legs, I think. I
> would need to
> determine whether X or Y on my permanent shore power
> cable powers leg
> 1 in the bus when I wire it to a 30 amp plug.
>
> I do not plan to use this configuration but I would
> like to be ready
> to do so if needed.
>
> I handle 12v very well, 120v not as well. Does the
> foregoing sound
> correct?
>
> So that very faint humming noise I here when
> everyone is asleep is
> the transfer switch. I was about to go searching for
> the source. Now
> I won't.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Leroy Eckert
> 1990WB40
> Niceville, FL
>
>
>
>
>
>

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