Dometic Refrigerator Tips

[Eric Johnson]

Our original Dometic refrigerator has mysteriously quit cooling while on shore
power. I
opened the door and found it was warm inside. Checked the light at the bottom
and it was
showing red. I turned the unit off, waited awhile, turned it back on and the
light was green.
Checked it a couple of hours later and still no cooling.

Any ideas on what might be the problem? I had the circuit board replaced about
5 years ago
and it has worked great ever since. Could it be I need a new board again?

Thanks in advance for any help, suggestions.

Regards, Eric in San Antonio
84FC35SBWL2

[dthollis1961]

Eric,

Go to http://www.rvmobile.com/. They have an excellent
troubleshooting guide. I just replaced my Dometic with a larger
Norcold for $1000. New circuit boards for your fridge are about
$200.

David Hollis 84 FC35 Springfield,IL


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Johnson"
wrote:
>
> Our original Dometic refrigerator has mysteriously quit cooling
while on shore power. I
> opened the door and found it was warm inside. Checked the light
at the bottom and it was
> showing red. I turned the unit off, waited awhile, turned it back
on and the light was green.
> Checked it a couple of hours later and still no cooling.
>
> Any ideas on what might be the problem? I had the circuit board
replaced about 5 years ago
> and it has worked great ever since. Could it be I need a new
board again?
>
> Thanks in advance for any help, suggestions.
>
> Regards, Eric in San Antonio
> 84FC35SBWL2
>

[Eric Johnson]

Hi David,
Will do! Thanks for the information. How did you fit a larger fridge into the
old Dometic
space?
Regards, Eric
84FC35SBWL2
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "dthollis1961" wrote:
>
> Eric,
>
> Go to http://www.rvmobile.com/. They have an excellent
> troubleshooting guide. I just replaced my Dometic with a larger
> Norcold for $1000. New circuit boards for your fridge are about
> $200.
>
> David Hollis 84 FC35 Springfield,IL
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Johnson"
> wrote:
> >
> > Our original Dometic refrigerator has mysteriously quit cooling
> while on shore power. I
> > opened the door and found it was warm inside. Checked the light
> at the bottom and it was
> > showing red. I turned the unit off, waited awhile, turned it back
> on and the light was green.
> > Checked it a couple of hours later and still no cooling.
> >
> > Any ideas on what might be the problem? I had the circuit board
> replaced about 5 years ago
> > and it has worked great ever since. Could it be I need a new
> board again?
> >
> > Thanks in advance for any help, suggestions.
> >
> > Regards, Eric in San Antonio
> > 84FC35SBWL2
> >
>

[dthollis1961]

Eric,

Height is the only issue for a larger fridge. I removed the shelf
in the compartment above the fridge and moved it up the required
amount. Bought the fridge at bigdiscountrv.com. Good price, no tax
and free shipping to me in less than 3 days.

David Hollis 84 FC35 Springfield,IL


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Johnson"
wrote:
>
> Hi David,
> Will do! Thanks for the information. How did you fit a larger
fridge into the old Dometic
> space?
> Regards, Eric
> 84FC35SBWL2
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "dthollis1961"
wrote:
> >
> > Eric,
> >

[Ralph L. Fullenwider]

Hello Eric:

Lets explore some basic troubleshooting on this one.

First, the button at the bottom that was red, now green, after resetting is
for the LP only. Your refer, if not on automatic needs to be switched over
to LP at the eye brow of (panel) of the refer.
12 vdc
Now, no matter if on ac or lp, the refer board still needs 12 vdc to power
it up. So you need to check to be sure there is 12 vdc at the terminal
strip in the out side refer compartment. The terminal strip is at the base
of the refer just under the circuit board. If 12 vdc is present, there are
2 or 3 fuses on the circuit board that needs to be checked.

110 vac
Next, you need to ohm out the 110vac heater located beside the boiler tube
on the right. Find the wiring and trace to where the connectors are. making
sure power is off, undo the connectors and measure ohms across the 2
wires. You should read between 1.2 and 4 ohms, or a reading other than 0.
if the meter reads 0 then the heater is bad, replace it. If it ohms out,
then re connect the wires, apply 110 vac power, turn on the refer to manual
ac, then check for 110 vac at the connections going to the heater. The
boiler tube should be very warm to the touch or you can feel the insert
tube on the side of the boiler to see if it is getting hot.

Lp.
Switch the eye brow to manual lp and you should hear a click click click of
the igniter/re igniter trying to ignite the lp flame. go out and make sure
it lights, you may have to remove the cover plate to see the flame or use a
mirror.

If the AC heater is getting hot and the boiler tube is becoming warm, in 3
to 4 hours you should be able to feel the shelf plate in the refer getting
cold. If it remains warm or hot, then the coil unit of the refer is blocked
and time for a new unit.

If you need a new unit. There was a recall on Norcold units, due to fires
starting, so be sure to check that model and serial numbers if you go
Norcold. Most techs and RV repair places are reluctant to even work on
Norcolds right now because of law suites.

Personal I still think the Dometic is a better unit, but that is like tires
and insurance, everyone has their own ideas.

Start with the voltage check and take it one step at a time.

Safe travels,

Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm

>
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Johnson"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Our original Dometic refrigerator has mysteriously quit cooling
> > while on shore power. I
> > > opened the door and found it was warm inside. Checked the light
> > at the bottom and it was
> > > showing red. I turned the unit off, waited awhile, turned it back
> > on and the light was green.
> > > Checked it a couple of hours later and still no cooling.
> > >
> > > Any ideas on what might be the problem? I had the circuit board
> > replaced about 5 years ago
> > > and it has worked great ever since. Could it be I need a new
> > board again?
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance for any help, suggestions.
> > >
> > > Regards, Eric in San Antonio
> > > 84FC35SBWL2
> > >
> >
>
>

[Eric Johnson]

Hi Ralph,
Thanks for the information. It seems the unit came back from the dead after I
shut off the
12 vdc to the back of the coach and then put it back in service. It took a long
time to cool
back down but then we keep having 100+ºF days which doesn't help. I don't think
the fan
located in the outside compartment is working anymore. Got any info on a good
replacement for this fan? Is it on a thermostat or should it run when I flip
the switch in the
panel next to the kitchen sink, regardless of temperature? Better circulation
through there
might improve cooling on these hot days.
Regards, Eric in San Antonio
84FC35SBWL2

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
wrote:
>
> Hello Eric:
>
> Lets explore some basic troubleshooting on this one.
>
> First, the button at the bottom that was red, now green, after resetting is
> for the LP only. Your refer, if not on automatic needs to be switched over
> to LP at the eye brow of (panel) of the refer.
> 12 vdc
> Now, no matter if on ac or lp, the refer board still needs 12 vdc to power
> it up. So you need to check to be sure there is 12 vdc at the terminal
> strip in the out side refer compartment. The terminal strip is at the base
> of the refer just under the circuit board. If 12 vdc is present, there are
> 2 or 3 fuses on the circuit board that needs to be checked.
>
> 110 vac
> Next, you need to ohm out the 110vac heater located beside the boiler tube
> on the right. Find the wiring and trace to where the connectors are. making
> sure power is off, undo the connectors and measure ohms across the 2
> wires. You should read between 1.2 and 4 ohms, or a reading other than 0.
> if the meter reads 0 then the heater is bad, replace it. If it ohms out,
> then re connect the wires, apply 110 vac power, turn on the refer to manual
> ac, then check for 110 vac at the connections going to the heater. The
> boiler tube should be very warm to the touch or you can feel the insert
> tube on the side of the boiler to see if it is getting hot.
>
> Lp.
> Switch the eye brow to manual lp and you should hear a click click click of
> the igniter/re igniter trying to ignite the lp flame. go out and make sure
> it lights, you may have to remove the cover plate to see the flame or use a
> mirror.
>
> If the AC heater is getting hot and the boiler tube is becoming warm, in 3
> to 4 hours you should be able to feel the shelf plate in the refer getting
> cold. If it remains warm or hot, then the coil unit of the refer is blocked
> and time for a new unit.
>
> If you need a new unit. There was a recall on Norcold units, due to fires
> starting, so be sure to check that model and serial numbers if you go
> Norcold. Most techs and RV repair places are reluctant to even work on
> Norcolds right now because of law suites.
>
> Personal I still think the Dometic is a better unit, but that is like tires
> and insurance, everyone has their own ideas.
>
> Start with the voltage check and take it one step at a time.
>
> Safe travels,
>
> Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm
>
> >
> > >
> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Johnson"
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Our original Dometic refrigerator has mysteriously quit cooling
> > > while on shore power. I
> > > > opened the door and found it was warm inside. Checked the light
> > > at the bottom and it was
> > > > showing red. I turned the unit off, waited awhile, turned it back
> > > on and the light was green.
> > > > Checked it a couple of hours later and still no cooling.
> > > >
> > > > Any ideas on what might be the problem? I had the circuit board
> > > replaced about 5 years ago
> > > > and it has worked great ever since. Could it be I need a new
> > > board again?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks in advance for any help, suggestions.
> > > >
> > > > Regards, Eric in San Antonio
> > > > 84FC35SBWL2
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>

[Curt Sprenger]

Replacement Fan...Over a year ago I bought a surplus computer fan,
$4.00, and installed it using a household thermostat. It's set to run
when temp. gets to 90 degrees. It's still working, and quiet too.

Curt Sprenger 1987 PT38, Anaheim Hills, Calif.



Eric Johnson wrote:

> Hi Ralph,
> Thanks for the information. It seems the unit came back from the dead
> after I shut off the
> 12 vdc to the back of the coach and then put it back in service. It
> took a long time to cool
> back down but then we keep having 100+ºF days which doesn't help. I
> don't think the fan
> located in the outside compartment is working anymore. Got any info on
> a good
> replacement for this fan? Is it on a thermostat or should it run when
> I flip the switch in the
> panel next to the kitchen sink, regardless of temperature? Better
> circulation through there
> might improve cooling on these hot days.
> Regards, Eric in San Antonio
> 84FC35SBWL2
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> , "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
> wrote:
> >
> > Hello Eric:
> >
> > Lets explore some basic troubleshooting on this one.
> >
> > First, the button at the bottom that was red, now green, after
> resetting is
> > for the LP only. Your refer, if not on automatic needs to be
> switched over
> > to LP at the eye brow of (panel) of the refer.
> > 12 vdc
> > Now, no matter if on ac or lp, the refer board still needs 12 vdc to
> power
> > it up. So you need to check to be sure there is 12 vdc at the terminal
> > strip in the out side refer compartment. The terminal strip is at
> the base
> > of the refer just under the circuit board. If 12 vdc is present,
> there are
> > 2 or 3 fuses on the circuit board that needs to be checked.
> >
> > 110 vac
> > Next, you need to ohm out the 110vac heater located beside the
> boiler tube
> > on the right. Find the wiring and trace to where the connectors are.
> making
> > sure power is off, undo the connectors and measure ohms across the 2
> > wires. You should read between 1.2 and 4 ohms, or a reading other
> than 0.
> > if the meter reads 0 then the heater is bad, replace it. If it ohms
> out,
> > then re connect the wires, apply 110 vac power, turn on the refer to
> manual
> > ac, then check for 110 vac at the connections going to the heater. The
> > boiler tube should be very warm to the touch or you can feel the insert
> > tube on the side of the boiler to see if it is getting hot.
> >
> > Lp.
> > Switch the eye brow to manual lp and you should hear a click click
> click of
> > the igniter/re igniter trying to ignite the lp flame. go out and
> make sure
> > it lights, you may have to remove the cover plate to see the flame
> or use a
> > mirror.
> >
> > If the AC heater is getting hot and the boiler tube is becoming
> warm, in 3
> > to 4 hours you should be able to feel the shelf plate in the refer
> getting
> > cold. If it remains warm or hot, then the coil unit of the refer is
> blocked
> > and time for a new unit.
> >
> > If you need a new unit. There was a recall on Norcold units, due to
> fires
> > starting, so be sure to check that model and serial numbers if you go
> > Norcold. Most techs and RV repair places are reluctant to even work on
> > Norcolds right now because of law suites.
> >
> > Personal I still think the Dometic is a better unit, but that is
> like tires
> > and insurance, everyone has their own ideas.
> >
> > Start with the voltage check and take it one step at a time.
> >
> > Safe travels,
> >
> > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> > http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm
> <http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm>
> >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> , "Eric Johnson"
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Our original Dometic refrigerator has mysteriously quit cooling
> > > > while on shore power. I
> > > > > opened the door and found it was warm inside. Checked the light
> > > > at the bottom and it was
> > > > > showing red. I turned the unit off, waited awhile, turned it back
> > > > on and the light was green.
> > > > > Checked it a couple of hours later and still no cooling.
> > > > >
> > > > > Any ideas on what might be the problem? I had the circuit board
> > > > replaced about 5 years ago
> > > > > and it has worked great ever since. Could it be I need a new
> > > > board again?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks in advance for any help, suggestions.
> > > > >
> > > > > Regards, Eric in San Antonio
> > > > > 84FC35SBWL2
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>

[Ralph L. Fullenwider]

Hi Eric:

My apology, I had inadvertently over looked this E-mail. The original fan
does or did have a thermostat in line with the 12 vdc power and was set to
be on at 90 F and off at 70 ish F. When I replaced my fan, the large 12 vdc
fans found at truck stops or RV parts, I took the thermostat out of it and
went directly to the operator controlled switch on the panel.

Curt's solution worked for him as well, and not a bad one. I just like
larger fans pushing more air through the coils and out the top of the
stack. Either way, air is moving and that is the preferred thing.

I did an experiment out in Phoenix (119 F in the shade) when visiting our
Daughter. I took and umbrella and made a shade for the out side compartment
and it did help cool it down as well. Was going to put the smallest ZipDee,
like over the windows, over the refer out side compartment to match the
rest of the Coach. But that is an extreme, just thought it a good idea,
still do.

Glad your refer reset for you. The fridge temps should be in the area of 36
to 39F in the main box and 6 to 9 degrees F in the freezer, this is the
normal temps.

Ralph

At 10:01 PM 8/21/2006 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi Ralph,
>Thanks for the information. It seems the unit came back from the dead
>after I shut off the
>12 vdc to the back of the coach and then put it back in service. It took
>a long time to cool
>back down but then we keep having 100+ºF days which doesn't help. I don't
>think the fan
>located in the outside compartment is working anymore. Got any info on a
>good
>replacement for this fan? Is it on a thermostat or should it run when I
>flip the switch in the
>panel next to the kitchen sink, regardless of temperature? Better
>circulation through there
>might improve cooling on these hot days.
>Regards, Eric in San Antonio
>84FC35SBWL2
>
>--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
> wrote:
> >
> > Hello Eric:
> >
> > Lets explore some basic troubleshooting on this one.
> >
> > First, the button at the bottom that was red, now green, after
> resetting is
> > for the LP only. Your refer, if not on automatic needs to be switched over
> > to LP at the eye brow of (panel) of the refer.
> > 12 vdc
> > Now, no matter if on ac or lp, the refer board still needs 12 vdc to power
> > it up. So you need to check to be sure there is 12 vdc at the terminal
> > strip in the out side refer compartment. The terminal strip is at the base
> > of the refer just under the circuit board. If 12 vdc is present, there are
> > 2 or 3 fuses on the circuit board that needs to be checked.
> >
> > 110 vac
> > Next, you need to ohm out the 110vac heater located beside the boiler tube
> > on the right. Find the wiring and trace to where the connectors are.
> making
> > sure power is off, undo the connectors and measure ohms across the 2
> > wires. You should read between 1.2 and 4 ohms, or a reading other than 0.
> > if the meter reads 0 then the heater is bad, replace it. If it ohms out,
> > then re connect the wires, apply 110 vac power, turn on the refer to
> manual
> > ac, then check for 110 vac at the connections going to the heater. The
> > boiler tube should be very warm to the touch or you can feel the insert
> > tube on the side of the boiler to see if it is getting hot.
> >
> > Lp.
> > Switch the eye brow to manual lp and you should hear a click click
> click of
> > the igniter/re igniter trying to ignite the lp flame. go out and make sure
> > it lights, you may have to remove the cover plate to see the flame or
> use a
> > mirror.
> >
> > If the AC heater is getting hot and the boiler tube is becoming warm, in 3
> > to 4 hours you should be able to feel the shelf plate in the refer getting
> > cold. If it remains warm or hot, then the coil unit of the refer is
> blocked
> > and time for a new unit.
> >
> > If you need a new unit. There was a recall on Norcold units, due to fires
> > starting, so be sure to check that model and serial numbers if you go
> > Norcold. Most techs and RV repair places are reluctant to even work on
> > Norcolds right now because of law suites.
> >
> > Personal I still think the Dometic is a better unit, but that is like
> tires
> > and insurance, everyone has their own ideas.
> >
> > Start with the voltage check and take it one step at a time.
> >
> > Safe travels,
> >
> > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> > http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm

[Tom Warner]

Just a thought but if you have the optional
toaster that extends into the refrigerator cavity
from the left sidewall of the kiitchen it
restricts the smooth flow of air from the outside
panel up thru the cooling coils to the roof vent.
Take it out as I did and it makes a big difference.

Tom Warner
Vernon Center,NY
1985 PT 40


At 06:50 PM 8/21/2006, you wrote:
>Replacement Fan...Over a year ago I bought a surplus computer fan,
>$4.00, and installed it using a household thermostat. It's set to run
>when temp. gets to 90 degrees. It's still working, and quiet too.
>
>Curt Sprenger 1987 PT38, Anaheim Hills, Calif.
>
>
>
>Eric Johnson wrote:
>
> > Hi Ralph,
> > Thanks for the information. It seems the unit came back from the dead
> > after I shut off the
> > 12 vdc to the back of the coach and then put it back in service. It
> > took a long time to cool
> > back down but then we keep having 100+ºF days which doesn't help. I
> > don't think the fan
> > located in the outside compartment is working anymore. Got any info on
> > a good
> > replacement for this fan? Is it on a thermostat or should it run when
> > I flip the switch in the
> > panel next to the kitchen sink, regardless of temperature? Better
> > circulation through there
> > might improve cooling on these hot days.
> > Regards, Eric in San Antonio
> > 84FC35SBWL2
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > , "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello Eric:
> > >
> > > Lets explore some basic troubleshooting on this one.
> > >
> > > First, the button at the bottom that was red, now green, after
> > resetting is
> > > for the LP only. Your refer, if not on automatic needs to be
> > switched over
> > > to LP at the eye brow of (panel) of the refer.
> > > 12 vdc
> > > Now, no matter if on ac or lp, the refer board still needs 12 vdc to
> > power
> > > it up. So you need to check to be sure there is 12 vdc at the terminal
> > > strip in the out side refer compartment. The terminal strip is at
> > the base
> > > of the refer just under the circuit board. If 12 vdc is present,
> > there are
> > > 2 or 3 fuses on the circuit board that needs to be checked.
> > >
> > > 110 vac
> > > Next, you need to ohm out the 110vac heater located beside the
> > boiler tube
> > > on the right. Find the wiring and trace to where the connectors are.
> > making
> > > sure power is off, undo the connectors and measure ohms across the 2
> > > wires. You should read between 1.2 and 4 ohms, or a reading other
> > than 0.
> > > if the meter reads 0 then the heater is bad, replace it. If it ohms
> > out,
> > > then re connect the wires, apply 110 vac power, turn on the refer to
> > manual
> > > ac, then check for 110 vac at the connections going to the heater. The
> > > boiler tube should be very warm to the touch or you can feel the insert
> > > tube on the side of the boiler to see if it is getting hot.
> > >
> > > Lp.
> > > Switch the eye brow to manual lp and you should hear a click click
> > click of
> > > the igniter/re igniter trying to ignite the lp flame. go out and
> > make sure
> > > it lights, you may have to remove the cover plate to see the flame
> > or use a
> > > mirror.
> > >
> > > If the AC heater is getting hot and the boiler tube is becoming
> > warm, in 3
> > > to 4 hours you should be able to feel the shelf plate in the refer
> > getting
> > > cold. If it remains warm or hot, then the coil unit of the refer is
> > blocked
> > > and time for a new unit.
> > >
> > > If you need a new unit. There was a recall on Norcold units, due to
> > fires
> > > starting, so be sure to check that model and serial numbers if you go
> > > Norcold. Most techs and RV repair places are reluctant to even work on
> > > Norcolds right now because of law suites.
> > >
> > > Personal I still think the Dometic is a better unit, but that is
> > like tires
> > > and insurance, everyone has their own ideas.
> > >
> > > Start with the voltage check and take it one step at a time.
> > >
> > > Safe travels,
> > >
> > > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > > Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> > > http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm
> > <http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm>
> > >
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > , "Eric Johnson"
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Our original Dometic refrigerator has mysteriously quit cooling
> > > > > while on shore power. I
> > > > > > opened the door and found it was warm inside. Checked the light
> > > > > at the bottom and it was
> > > > > > showing red. I turned the unit off, waited awhile, turned it back
> > > > > on and the light was green.
> > > > > > Checked it a couple of hours later and still no cooling.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Any ideas on what might be the problem? I had the circuit board
> > > > > replaced about 5 years ago
> > > > > > and it has worked great ever since. Could it be I need a new
> > > > > board again?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks in advance for any help, suggestions.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Regards, Eric in San Antonio
> > > > > > 84FC35SBWL2
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

[Howard O. Truitt]

Eric,
BB has a replacement for the fan. They were reasonable on price compared to
Camping World. It is a heavy built fan not a light plastic one.
Howard Truitt
Camilla, Ga.
86 PT40

----- Original Message -----
From: Eric Johnson
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 6:01 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Dometic Refrigerator Tips


Hi Ralph,
Thanks for the information. It seems the unit came back from the dead after I
shut off the
12 vdc to the back of the coach and then put it back in service. It took a
long time to cool
back down but then we keep having 100+ºF days which doesn't help. I don't
think the fan
located in the outside compartment is working anymore. Got any info on a good
replacement for this fan? Is it on a thermostat or should it run when I flip
the switch in the
panel next to the kitchen sink, regardless of temperature? Better circulation
through there
might improve cooling on these hot days.
Regards, Eric in San Antonio
84FC35SBWL2

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
wrote:
>
> Hello Eric:
>
> Lets explore some basic troubleshooting on this one.
>
> First, the button at the bottom that was red, now green, after resetting is
> for the LP only. Your refer, if not on automatic needs to be switched over
> to LP at the eye brow of (panel) of the refer.
> 12 vdc
> Now, no matter if on ac or lp, the refer board still needs 12 vdc to power
> it up. So you need to check to be sure there is 12 vdc at the terminal
> strip in the out side refer compartment. The terminal strip is at the base
> of the refer just under the circuit board. If 12 vdc is present, there are
> 2 or 3 fuses on the circuit board that needs to be checked.
>
> 110 vac
> Next, you need to ohm out the 110vac heater located beside the boiler tube
> on the right. Find the wiring and trace to where the connectors are. making
> sure power is off, undo the connectors and measure ohms across the 2
> wires. You should read between 1.2 and 4 ohms, or a reading other than 0.
> if the meter reads 0 then the heater is bad, replace it. If it ohms out,
> then re connect the wires, apply 110 vac power, turn on the refer to manual
> ac, then check for 110 vac at the connections going to the heater. The
> boiler tube should be very warm to the touch or you can feel the insert
> tube on the side of the boiler to see if it is getting hot.
>
> Lp.
> Switch the eye brow to manual lp and you should hear a click click click of
> the igniter/re igniter trying to ignite the lp flame. go out and make sure
> it lights, you may have to remove the cover plate to see the flame or use a
> mirror.
>
> If the AC heater is getting hot and the boiler tube is becoming warm, in 3
> to 4 hours you should be able to feel the shelf plate in the refer getting
> cold. If it remains warm or hot, then the coil unit of the refer is blocked
> and time for a new unit.
>
> If you need a new unit. There was a recall on Norcold units, due to fires
> starting, so be sure to check that model and serial numbers if you go
> Norcold. Most techs and RV repair places are reluctant to even work on
> Norcolds right now because of law suites.
>
> Personal I still think the Dometic is a better unit, but that is like tires
> and insurance, everyone has their own ideas.
>
> Start with the voltage check and take it one step at a time.
>
> Safe travels,
>
> Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm
>
> >
> > >
> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Johnson"
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Our original Dometic refrigerator has mysteriously quit cooling
> > > while on shore power. I
> > > > opened the door and found it was warm inside. Checked the light
> > > at the bottom and it was
> > > > showing red. I turned the unit off, waited awhile, turned it back
> > > on and the light was green.
> > > > Checked it a couple of hours later and still no cooling.
> > > >
> > > > Any ideas on what might be the problem? I had the circuit board
> > > replaced about 5 years ago
> > > > and it has worked great ever since. Could it be I need a new
> > > board again?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks in advance for any help, suggestions.
> > > >
> > > > Regards, Eric in San Antonio
> > > > 84FC35SBWL2
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>






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