opening up dashboard

[Gardner Yeaw]

OK, I need to lift up the dash board in my 78FC33 to replace some
switches. I am contemplating using indicator switches so I can see at a
glance what is on and off. I also need to get the guage lights to work.

That said, I realize that I can create new problems since the
connections are pretty old and perhaps corroded and ready to break. I
won't do it when I have a trip planned but will wait until the season
ends and I am down for the winter. I suppose I need to reach under and
disconnect the tach and spedometer cables. Are there any other common
connections that need to be addressed prior to lifting? Also, should I
lift from the front or rear?

Gardner
78FC33

[Eric Johnson]

Hello Gardner,
I did a similar operation on our '84 FC awhile back. Not sure how different a
'78 is but
sure there are some similarities. Here are some things I learned in the
process:

1. Take the steering wheel off using the proper puller, you'll need the access.
2. The tach and speedo are driven electrically and you don't need to undo any
cable
drives.
3. I restored reliable dash lights by moving the wire to another connector on
the headlight
switch. This bypasses the reostat which is often the problem with lack of
light. Now,
when I pull on the headlight switch I get nice, bright gauge/panel lights.
4. You want to be especially careful with handling the electroluminescent
panels. The
electrical connections to them are very fragile. My understanding is these
panels can be
replaced if you damage them but they aren't cheap. You'll want to get some
knowledgeable advice from others if you want to drill holes and add items to the
panel.
Concern would again be with damaging the electrolumenescent lighting.
5. Screws around the border of the panel have to be removed. In addition, on
my coach,
one of the screws that held the CB mike bracket in place also had to be removed
to take
the top panel out.
6. I made all repairs and bulb changes with panels pulled back enough to get
access to
the back but didn't attempt to totally disconnect and remove them.

Good luck, Eric in San Antonio
84FC35SBWL2
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gardner Yeaw" wrote:
>
> OK, I need to lift up the dash board in my 78FC33 to replace some
> switches. I am contemplating using indicator switches so I can see at a
> glance what is on and off. I also need to get the guage lights to work.
>
> That said, I realize that I can create new problems since the
> connections are pretty old and perhaps corroded and ready to break. I
> won't do it when I have a trip planned but will wait until the season
> ends and I am down for the winter. I suppose I need to reach under and
> disconnect the tach and spedometer cables. Are there any other common
> connections that need to be addressed prior to lifting? Also, should I
> lift from the front or rear?
>
> Gardner
> 78FC33
>

[one_dusty_hoot]

On my '77, remove the perimeter screws,lift straight up, side to
side, rest one side, reach under to un-screw speedometer if you need
to go up more than a few inches. Tach was elec, no EL dash.

Many, many circuits run through the ignition sw, an overloaded
circuit. Use Bosh relays, esp on lighting, Fuel shut-off.
Bob Janes, Greenville, SC

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Johnson"
wrote:
>
> Hello Gardner,
> I did a similar operation on our '84 FC awhile back. Not sure how
different a '78 is but
> sure there are some similarities. Here are some things I learned
in the process:
>
> 1. Take the steering wheel off using the proper puller, you'll
need the access.
> 2. The tach and speedo are driven electrically and you don't need
to undo any cable
> drives.
> 3. I restored reliable dash lights by moving the wire to another
connector on the headlight
> switch. This bypasses the reostat which is often the problem with
lack of light. Now,
> when I pull on the headlight switch I get nice, bright gauge/panel
lights.
> 4. You want to be especially careful with handling the
electroluminescent panels. The
> electrical connections to them are very fragile. My understanding
is these panels can be
> replaced if you damage them but they aren't cheap. You'll want to
get some
> knowledgeable advice from others if you want to drill holes and add
items to the panel.
> Concern would again be with damaging the electrolumenescent
lighting.
> 5. Screws around the border of the panel have to be removed. In
addition, on my coach,
> one of the screws that held the CB mike bracket in place also had
to be removed to take
> the top panel out.
> 6. I made all repairs and bulb changes with panels pulled back
enough to get access to
> the back but didn't attempt to totally disconnect and remove them.
>
> Good luck, Eric in San Antonio
> 84FC35SBWL2
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gardner Yeaw"
wrote:
> >
> > OK, I need to lift up the dash board in my 78FC33 to replace
some
> > switches. I am contemplating using indicator switches so I can
see at a
> > glance what is on and off. I also need to get the guage lights to
work.
> >
> > That said, I realize that I can create new problems since the
> > connections are pretty old and perhaps corroded and ready to
break. I
> > won't do it when I have a trip planned but will wait until the
season
> > ends and I am down for the winter. I suppose I need to reach
under and
> > disconnect the tach and spedometer cables. Are there any other
common
> > connections that need to be addressed prior to lifting? Also,
should I
> > lift from the front or rear?
> >
> > Gardner
> > 78FC33
> >
>

[Leroy Eckert]

Gardner, be very careful with the EL panels. The wires are attached with what
looks like silicone to the back of the panel. The panel operates from inverter
cubes. I cannot tell you what color the cubes are, I believe blue, because I
cannot find mine anywhere. I also believe, could be wrong, that adding holes of
any kind to the EL panel will ruin it. Expensive fix. Check with Stephen
Birtles, he retro-fits these EL panels. He will pop up on this question, I'm
sure.

Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40
Niceville, FL






----- Original Message -----
From: Gardner Yeaw
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 10:01 AM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] opening up dashboard


OK, I need to lift up the dash board in my 78FC33 to replace some
switches. I am contemplating using indicator switches so I can see at a
glance what is on and off. I also need to get the guage lights to work.

That said, I realize that I can create new problems since the
connections are pretty old and perhaps corroded and ready to break. I
won't do it when I have a trip planned but will wait until the season
ends and I am down for the winter. I suppose I need to reach under and
disconnect the tach and spedometer cables. Are there any other common
connections that need to be addressed prior to lifting? Also, should I
lift from the front or rear?

Gardner
78FC33





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Tom Warner]

I dont believe the 1978 has an EL dash.

tom warner
Vernon Center,NY
1985 PT 40


At 11:01 AM 9/21/2006, you wrote:
> OK, I need to lift up the dash board in my 78FC33 to replace some
>switches. I am contemplating using indicator switches so I can see at a
>glance what is on and off. I also need to get the guage lights to work.
>
> That said, I realize that I can create new problems since the
>connections are pretty old and perhaps corroded and ready to break. I
>won't do it when I have a trip planned but will wait until the season
>ends and I am down for the winter. I suppose I need to reach under and
>disconnect the tach and spedometer cables. Are there any other common
>connections that need to be addressed prior to lifting? Also, should I
>lift from the front or rear?
>
> Gardner
> 78FC33

[dspithaler@...]

Guys
On my 79 FC when I wanted to lift the dash I would unscrew the
speedometer cable from under the coach. It was easier to get to down there. I
then had
plenty of slack to lift the dash.
Don
89 SP 36'
Butler, PA

On my '77, remove the perimeter screws,lift straight up, side to
side, rest one side, reach under to un-screw speedometer if you need
to go up more than a few inches. Tach was elec, no EL dash.

Many, many circuits run through the ignition sw, an overloaded
circuit. Use Bosh relays, esp on lighting, Fuel shut-off.
Bob Janes, Greenville, SC







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Gardner Yeaw]

I do not have an EL dash so that is not an issue. I believe the spedo
is mechanical, I don't know about the tach. The tach doesn't seem to
read right, it doesn't go over 2200 even if the engine revs higher.
The spedo does a lot of bouncing, but I don't think I will have a
speeding issue! (haha). I still have many things to figure out, bot
one step at a time.

thanks for the responses,
Gardner
78FC33


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gardner Yeaw"
wrote:
>
> OK, I need to lift up the dash board in my 78FC33 to replace
some
> switches. I am contemplating using indicator switches so I can see
at a
> glance what is on and off. I also need to get the guage lights to
work.
>
> That said, I realize that I can create new problems since the
> connections are pretty old and perhaps corroded and ready to break.
I
> won't do it when I have a trip planned but will wait until the
season
> ends and I am down for the winter. I suppose I need to reach under
and
> disconnect the tach and spedometer cables. Are there any other
common
> connections that need to be addressed prior to lifting? Also,
should I
> lift from the front or rear?
>
> Gardner
> 78FC33
>