Battery compartment redo

[John & Barb Ely]

Bob Howald:
I am recalling soldering lore from many eons ago when I was an AC tech, and
I think you may want to consider looking at those new cable ends.
In order for a solder joint to stick, ALL components must be above the
melting point of the solder. If not, you get a cold solder joint. I may
have misread but it sounds as if you stuck cold cable into hot
solder. Almost by definition, the solder in direct contact with the cable
as it slipped into that pool would have dropped below its melting
point. The chances are pretty good that your copper ends stuck only
partially on the 4 aught cable and will eventually break, in the mean time
providing a nice spot for hidden corrosion. I recommend that you reheat
those joints, applying the heat to the cable. It will be a whole lot
easier to do that now and avoid the frustration a year from now of trying
to figure out why your batteries aren't charging, etc.

John Ely, 86PT40, Rapid City, SD On the road

[Tom]

Bob/John when making battery cables I would not solder the connections
since it tends to weaken the cable where the cable and terminal meet. The
best method is to use a large battery crimper that gives a good solid hex
crimp that escentially forces the strands of wire into a solid mass and the
terminal is then solidly crimped around it. You will notice that cables for
house entrances etc are always crimped like this and never soldered. You
then need to shrink a thick wall heat shrink with interior melt glue over
the connection so that it will not corrode.


Tom
1982 FC35
Vernon Center,Ny
In the beautiful Mohawk Valley of NY

At 09:05 AM 4/15/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>Bob Howald:
>I am recalling soldering lore from many eons ago when I was an AC tech, and
>I think you may want to consider looking at those new cable ends.
> In order for a solder joint to stick, ALL components must be above the
>melting point of the solder. If not, you get a cold solder joint. I may
>have misread but it sounds as if you stuck cold cable into hot
>solder. Almost by definition, the solder in direct contact with the cable
>as it slipped into that pool would have dropped below its melting
>point. The chances are pretty good that your copper ends stuck only
>partially on the 4 aught cable and will eventually break, in the mean time
>providing a nice spot for hidden corrosion. I recommend that you reheat
>those joints, applying the heat to the cable. It will be a whole lot
>easier to do that now and avoid the frustration a year from now of trying
>to figure out why your batteries aren't charging, etc.
>
>John Ely, 86PT40, Rapid City, SD On the road

[Jeff Miller]

Like Tom, I prefer a good crimp, a good crimp connector, and heat-
shrink with internal adheasive.

For many wire gauges you can buy crimp connectors with the heat-shrink
and glue attached which makes for easy installation, a good idea where
exposed to the elements.

- Jeff Miller
http://www.wanderlodge.net


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Tom wrote:
> Bob/John when making battery cables I would not solder the
connections <<snip>>

[erniecarpet@...]

Aren't the cables from a welding supply better and easier to work with?
ERnie-83PT40--with a killer ground strap in texas


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Miller]

BTW, a good mechanical connection is key (crimp or otherwise) as the
solder is a poor conductor compared to copper.

- Jeff Miller
http://www.wanderlodge.net


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Miller"
wrote:
>
> Like Tom, I prefer a good crimp, a good crimp connector, and heat-
> shrink with internal adheasive.
>
> For many wire gauges you can buy crimp connectors with the heat-
shrink
> and glue attached which makes for easy installation, a good idea
where
> exposed to the elements.
>
> - Jeff Miller
> http://www.wanderlodge.net
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Tom wrote:
> > Bob/John when making battery cables I would not solder the
> connections <<snip>>

[Jeff Miller]

I bought a really nice braided and tinned double-strap ground for
Stephen and Tristan's 8V96 PT40, got it from my friends at the local
fleet supplier, lugs on both ends. I really like the flexibility of
braided straps in that weight.

I think Stephen liked it better than the 4/0 stuff also.

As far as welding cable, very easy to work with, but not pre-tinned
like the marine cables. I'm not sure what the difference is in
insulation (heat or chemical resistance, flame spread, temperature
resistance, smoke production, lots of stuff to consider in UL listed
cables). Welding cables sure are a lot less $$ though.

The local West Marine sells the heavy-gauge marine cables by the foot,
red and black, have crimper and lugs too.

- Jeff Miller
http://www.wanderlodge.net


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, erniecarpet@a... wrote:
> Aren't the cables from a welding supply better and easier to work
with?
> ERnie-83PT40--with a killer ground strap in texas
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Tom]

Welding cable works fine but just remember that the covering is no where as
sturdy as regular battery cable. For the welding cable to be flexible the
individual wires are much finer and the outer covering is softer and more
flexilbe. When I recabled my coach I used 4/0 welding cable.

For those with FC models of Bluebird one of the best modifications you can
do is move the inverter/charger to the passenger outside compartment. This
will drastically reduce the voltage loss in the cables. The present cables
from the batteries to the charger go from the charger across the coach and
terminate under the passenger side steps and from there up to the front
making this length of cable far to long to pull the current necessary to
add for instance a microwave.

tom
1982 FC35
Vernon Center,NY
In the beautiful Mohawk Valley of NY

At 08:49 PM 4/15/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>Aren't the cables from a welding supply better and easier to work with?
>ERnie-83PT40--with a killer ground strap in texas

[Jeff Miller]

Good idea.

I installed in the original charger bay which required heavier cables
to offset the possible voltage drop, still saw a drop close to 1/2v
at 130a draw (running roof A/C). Part of that was factory alternator
cables however, later upgraded.

Pre- '95 PT charger/inverter installations present another challenge,
no clean location for the inverter behind the rear axle. I've seen a
couple of installations in the bedroom and rear closet.


- Jeff Miller
http://www.wanderlodge.net


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Tom
wrote:>>snip<<> For those with FC models of Bluebird one of the best
modifications you can
> do is move the inverter/charger to the passenger outside
compartment. This
> will drastically reduce the voltage loss in the cables. The present
cables
> from the batteries to the charger go from the charger across the
coach and
> terminate under the passenger side steps and from there up to the
front
> making this length of cable far to long to pull the current
necessary to
> add for instance a microwave.
>