Radiator cap
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01-17-2007, 13:58
Post: #1
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Radiator cap
Am in the process of replacing the engine coolant of unknown type
with 27.5 gallons of Fleetcharge coolant. I noticed that the radiator cap is a little tired and replaced it with the same one a 7PSI cap since I figured that it is the correct one. Looked in my Detroit Diesel factory manual and it recommends that all on road engines use a minimum of a 9PSI cap. Just talked to Shane Fedeli and he also has a 7PSI cap installed and his factory manual also recommends the 9PSI cap. The blue box owners manual does not say what kind of cap the radiator takes. Is there a reason that BB used a 7PSI cap instead of the recommended 9PSI cap? What is everyone else using and is this the original BB cap? Seems to me that the 9PSI cap would result in a higher temperature to be safely reached if there is a problem before the coolant boiled. Tom Warner Vernon Center,NY 1985 PT 40 with a 6V92 |
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01-17-2007, 23:06
Post: #2
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Radiator cap
Tom,
I just braved the cold morning (about 50 degrees), and looked at my cap...it too is a 7lb'er. I guess they did the same with the 8V also.... Kevin McKeown Yorba Linda, CA 1986 38' PT 8V92 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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01-18-2007, 01:26
Post: #3
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Radiator cap
Keeping my 7PSI cap here so far.
Ron, No. California 85PT36 --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Tom Warner > > What is everyone else using and is this the > original BB cap? Seems to me that the 9PSI cap would result in a > higher temperature to be safely reached if there is a problem before > the coolant boiled. > Tom Warner > Vernon Center,NY > 1985 PT 40 with a 6V92 > |
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01-18-2007, 02:21
Post: #4
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Radiator cap
Mine has a 13lb cap, its been there since I purchased the coach and I do not
know if it is original. So far all is well. Seems like I saw a post where someone else had a 13lb cap, changed to 7lb and fluid would belch out of the puke tank. Leroy Eckert 1990 WB-40 "Smoke N Mirrors" Niceville, FL ----- Original Message ----- From: Tom Warner To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 7:58 PM Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] radiator cap Am in the process of replacing the engine coolant of unknown type with 27.5 gallons of Fleetcharge coolant. I noticed that the radiator cap is a little tired and replaced it with the same one a 7PSI cap since I figured that it is the correct one. Looked in my Detroit Diesel factory manual and it recommends that all on road engines use a minimum of a 9PSI cap. Just talked to Shane Fedeli and he also has a 7PSI cap installed and his factory manual also recommends the 9PSI cap. The blue box owners manual does not say what kind of cap the radiator takes. Is there a reason that BB used a 7PSI cap instead of the recommended 9PSI cap? What is everyone else using and is this the original BB cap? Seems to me that the 9PSI cap would result in a higher temperature to be safely reached if there is a problem before the coolant boiled. Tom Warner Vernon Center,NY 1985 PT 40 with a 6V92 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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01-18-2007, 04:04
Post: #5
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Radiator cap
Hello...
Just my longwinded $.02 worth... A long time ago when car companies werent' so dam greedy... the radiators were by today's standards... "heavy duty". Back then the radiator had more than enough capacity under normal usage that the cap was just that... a cap.. When corporate greed started kicking in... (worse than it was)they finally figured out that by making skinnier and cheaper radiators, they could get away with it by finally making the cap & system pressurized. It goes like this... the stronger the spring, the higher the pressures are and...the thinner the radiator gets until they are at the current compromise... greediness, cheapness and of course selling you more expensive anti-freeze. Back then you could put ordinary alchohol, kerosene or ... a methanol based antifreeze (as in cheap stuff) but as the pressure rose, so did the temperature which would boil out the old time (cheap stuff) If my memory hasn't failed.. I believe that @ 13 pounds you are in the super-heated range past 212 degrees. When the cap is now removed the fluid expands and wah-lah... boil over... Hmm... I think it was for every 1 pound cap pressure, the radiator could get hotter by 10 degree before blowing... Some of the memories are getting a bit foggy now but the lesson is there... I am presuming that due to the nature of a deisel motor, your radiator is quite large in capacity and you, in using a 7-9 pound cap have been getting away with it because you haven't pushed your unit.. Wanna' really test your 7 pound cap out... find a long steep grade and watch the needle climb... Finally the thermostat is NOT a radiator cap, that is for engine temperature regulating. Of course this article is subject to bashing etc. PS: My 1950 merc had a no pressure cap and yes, you could drive without it...radiator was 3 or more inches thick... Bill.. FWIW... Get the right mandated cap! |
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01-18-2007, 05:15
Post: #6
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Radiator cap
All I can say is, WOW, my heads gonna explode.
MH ----- Original Message ----- From: badbillybiker To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 10:04 AM Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Radiator cap Hello... Just my longwinded $.02 worth... A long time ago when car companies werent' so dam greedy... the radiators were by today's standards... "heavy duty". Back then the radiator had more than enough capacity under normal usage that the cap was just that... a cap.. When corporate greed started kicking in... (worse than it was)they finally figured out that by making skinnier and cheaper radiators, they could get away with it by finally making the cap & system pressurized. It goes like this... the stronger the spring, the higher the pressures are and...the thinner the radiator gets until they are at the current compromise... greediness, cheapness and of course selling you more expensive anti-freeze. Back then you could put ordinary alchohol, kerosene or ... a methanol based antifreeze (as in cheap stuff) but as the pressure rose, so did the temperature which would boil out the old time (cheap stuff) If my memory hasn't failed.. I believe that @ 13 pounds you are in the super-heated range past 212 degrees. When the cap is now removed the fluid expands and wah-lah... boil over... Hmm... I think it was for every 1 pound cap pressure, the radiator could get hotter by 10 degree before blowing... Some of the memories are getting a bit foggy now but the lesson is there... I am presuming that due to the nature of a deisel motor, your radiator is quite large in capacity and you, in using a 7-9 pound cap have been getting away with it because you haven't pushed your unit.. Wanna' really test your 7 pound cap out... find a long steep grade and watch the needle climb... Finally the thermostat is NOT a radiator cap, that is for engine temperature regulating. Of course this article is subject to bashing etc. PS: My 1950 merc had a no pressure cap and yes, you could drive without it...radiator was 3 or more inches thick... Bill.. FWIW... Get the right mandated cap! [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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01-18-2007, 06:13
Post: #7
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Radiator cap
Tom, the DDA shop in Billings (Interstate Diesel) says they would use
the 9 lb cap if your cooling system is in good overall condition, especially with the added cooling capacity given the interior heaters & additional coolers in the Birds. My 6V92 has a Gates 6-8 lb cap on it. Will probably just put a new 9 lb cap on it & keep the 6-8 as a spare when I go back together with the new radiator etc. Terry Neal Bozeman, MT 82PT40 74FC34 Tom Warner wrote: > Am in the process of replacing the engine coolant of unknown type > with 27.5 gallons of Fleetcharge coolant. I noticed that the > radiator cap is a little tired and replaced it with the same one a > 7PSI cap since I figured that it is the correct one. Looked in my > Detroit Diesel factory manual and it recommends that all on road > engines use a minimum of a 9PSI cap. Just talked to Shane Fedeli and > he also has a 7PSI cap installed and his factory manual also > recommends the 9PSI cap. > > The blue box owners manual does not say what kind of cap the radiator > takes. Is there a reason that BB used a 7PSI cap instead of the > recommended 9PSI cap? What is everyone else using and is this the > original BB cap? Seems to me that the 9PSI cap would result in a > higher temperature to be safely reached if there is a problem before > the coolant boiled. > Tom Warner > Vernon Center,NY > 1985 PT 40 with a 6V92 > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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01-18-2007, 07:26
Post: #8
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Radiator cap
Mike - Does your head explode at 7 or 9 PSI?
![]() > > All I can say is, WOW, my heads gonna explode. > MH > ----- Original Message ----- > From: badbillybiker > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 10:04 AM > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Radiator cap > > > Hello... > Just my longwinded $.02 worth... > A long time ago when car companies werent' so dam greedy... the > radiators were by today's standards... "heavy duty". > Back then the radiator had more than enough capacity under normal usage > that the cap was just that... a cap.. > When corporate greed started kicking in... (worse than it was) they > finally figured out that by making skinnier and cheaper radiators, they > could get away with it by finally making the cap & system pressurized. > It goes like this... the stronger the spring, the higher the pressures > are and...the thinner the radiator gets until they are at the current > compromise... greediness, cheapness and of course selling you more > expensive anti-freeze. Back then you could put ordinary alchohol, > kerosene or ... a methanol based antifreeze (as in cheap stuff) but as > the pressure rose, so did the temperature which would boil out the old > time (cheap stuff) If my memory hasn't failed.. I believe that @ 13 > pounds you are in the super-heated range past 212 degrees. When the cap > is now removed the fluid expands and wah-lah... boil over... > Hmm... I think it was for every 1 pound cap pressure, the radiator > could get hotter by 10 degree before blowing... > Some of the memories are getting a bit foggy now but the lesson is > there... I am presuming that due to the nature of a deisel motor, your > radiator is quite large in capacity and you, in using a 7-9 pound cap > have been getting away with it because you haven't pushed your unit.. > Wanna' really test your 7 pound cap out... find a long steep grade and > watch the needle climb... Finally the thermostat is NOT a radiator cap, > that is for engine temperature regulating. Of course this article is > subject to bashing etc. PS: My 1950 merc had a no pressure cap and yes, > you could drive without it...radiator was 3 or more inches thick... > Bill.. FWIW... > Get the right mandated cap! > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > |
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01-18-2007, 07:56
Post: #9
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Radiator cap
Neither, the it was the political comments.
MH ----- Original Message ----- From: freewill2008 To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 1:26 PM Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Radiator cap Mike - Does your head explode at 7 or 9 PSI? ![]() > > All I can say is, WOW, my heads gonna explode. > MH > ----- Original Message ----- > From: badbillybiker > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 10:04 AM > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Radiator cap > > > Hello... > Just my longwinded $.02 worth... > A long time ago when car companies werent' so dam greedy... the > radiators were by today's standards... "heavy duty". > Back then the radiator had more than enough capacity under normal usage > that the cap was just that... a cap.. > When corporate greed started kicking in... (worse than it was) they > finally figured out that by making skinnier and cheaper radiators, they > could get away with it by finally making the cap & system pressurized. > It goes like this... the stronger the spring, the higher the pressures > are and...the thinner the radiator gets until they are at the current > compromise... greediness, cheapness and of course selling you more > expensive anti-freeze. Back then you could put ordinary alchohol, > kerosene or ... a methanol based antifreeze (as in cheap stuff) but as > the pressure rose, so did the temperature which would boil out the old > time (cheap stuff) If my memory hasn't failed.. I believe that @ 13 > pounds you are in the super-heated range past 212 degrees. When the cap > is now removed the fluid expands and wah-lah... boil over... > Hmm... I think it was for every 1 pound cap pressure, the radiator > could get hotter by 10 degree before blowing... > Some of the memories are getting a bit foggy now but the lesson is > there... I am presuming that due to the nature of a deisel motor, your > radiator is quite large in capacity and you, in using a 7-9 pound cap > have been getting away with it because you haven't pushed your unit.. > Wanna' really test your 7 pound cap out... find a long steep grade and > watch the needle climb... Finally the thermostat is NOT a radiator cap, > that is for engine temperature regulating. Of course this article is > subject to bashing etc. PS: My 1950 merc had a no pressure cap and yes, > you could drive without it...radiator was 3 or more inches thick... > Bill.. FWIW... > Get the right mandated cap! > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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01-18-2007, 12:17
Post: #10
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Radiator cap
As I remember form a automotive class in 1970, about the time all this
emissions stuff was getting started, in order to meet some of the requirements it was necessary to raise the average combustion temperature while lowering the peak temperature. This "average" temperature was approaching the free air boiling point of the coolant so in order to raise the boiling point of the coolant, in many cases still only water, the coolant pressure had to be raised. Diesels were not subject to these regulations and they use larger volumes of coolant and dual valve thermostats which maintain a higher coolant velocity to reduce hot spots. This was not really an option for automotive engines because of economics, weight, and the idle cycle emission criteria. - Chuck Wheeler - 82 FC 31 SB Fort Worth, TX _____ From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com [mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of badbillybiker Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 10:05 AM To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Radiator cap Hello... Just my longwinded $.02 worth... A long time ago when car companies werent' so dam greedy... the radiators were by today's standards... "heavy duty". Back then the radiator had more than enough capacity under normal usage that the cap was just that... a cap.. When corporate greed started kicking in... (worse than it was)they finally figured out that by making skinnier and cheaper radiators, they could get away with it by finally making the cap & system pressurized. It goes like this... the stronger the spring, the higher the pressures are and...the thinner the radiator gets until they are at the current compromise... greediness, cheapness and of course selling you more expensive anti-freeze. Back then you could put ordinary alchohol, kerosene or ... a methanol based antifreeze (as in cheap stuff) but as the pressure rose, so did the temperature which would boil out the old time (cheap stuff) If my memory hasn't failed.. I believe that @ 13 pounds you are in the super-heated range past 212 degrees. When the cap is now removed the fluid expands and wah-lah... boil over... Hmm... I think it was for every 1 pound cap pressure, the radiator could get hotter by 10 degree before blowing... Some of the memories are getting a bit foggy now but the lesson is there... I am presuming that due to the nature of a deisel motor, your radiator is quite large in capacity and you, in using a 7-9 pound cap have been getting away with it because you haven't pushed your unit.. Wanna' really test your 7 pound cap out... find a long steep grade and watch the needle climb... Finally the thermostat is NOT a radiator cap, that is for engine temperature regulating. Of course this article is subject to bashing etc. PS: My 1950 merc had a no pressure cap and yes, you could drive without it...radiator was 3 or more inches thick... Bill.. FWIW... Get the right mandated cap! [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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