Roof vent leak

[James Harvie]

I was on top of my bus, last week, cleaning out the storage pods, and I noticed
3 things. I had a small crack in one of the vents, the diamond plate was loose,
and 2 of the brackets that hold those 3 bullhorns on, were broken. Yesterday I
went back up, tightened up the screws on the plate. I'm not sure if they have
nuts on the other end, but I thought I was going to have to drill oversize and
install oversize screws. They were all loose, some I got 8 or 9 turns out of
the screwdriver, but they all tightened up nice and tight. For the crack in the
vent, I cleaned it down with Enamel Reducer, and used that 2 part liquid epoxy.
You can get it in any auto parts store, and I'm not sure but maybe Wally World
has it too. Just look for the 2 plastic syringes tied together. One part is
blue, one clear. When you mix the two, it turns milky white, then about 20
seconds later, it turns clear. I applied it with a small Artists brush. I think
this is a good way to go. It is thick
enough, so if you have gaps, you can bridge them and I think would add
strenght.Just remember it dires in about a minute, so don't mix more than you
can use in that time. Not sure if it's paintable, or not I threw the package out
a long time ago. I plan on adding a Fantastic fan in that hole a little later,
but for now I have 2 lists. One's a" want" list, and one's a "need" list. I'm
doing the need list first, driveline maintanence, new tires etc. I may fabricate
new brackets, for those Bullhorns, I don't think those are heavy enough. I may
point them down too, to keep the debris out.

Jimmy Harvie

82FC 35 SB

Boston Ma.


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[mbulriss]

Jimmy,

It's pretty common to have to get up and tighten down the diamond
plate screws. I try to do it once a year.

The horn brackets are available from PMMI. There's a link for them in
the Parts database or in the Links. When I put the new ones one I let
the horn bellows rest on the diamond plate to take the pressure off
the brackets. They didn't make any vibration noise.

Mike Bulriss
1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"
San Antonio, TX


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, James Harvie
wrote:
>
> I was on top of my bus, last week, cleaning out the storage pods,
and I noticed 3 things. I had a small crack in one of the vents, the
diamond plate was loose, and 2 of the brackets that hold those 3
bullhorns on, were broken. Yesterday I went back up, tightened up the
screws on the plate. I'm not sure if they have nuts on the other end,
but I thought I was going to have to drill oversize and install
oversize screws. They were all loose, some I got 8 or 9 turns out of
the screwdriver, but they all tightened up nice and tight. For the
crack in the vent, I cleaned it down with Enamel Reducer, and used
that 2 part liquid epoxy. You can get it in any auto parts store, and
I'm not sure but maybe Wally World has it too. Just look for the 2
plastic syringes tied together. One part is blue, one clear. When you
mix the two, it turns milky white, then about 20 seconds later, it
turns clear. I applied it with a small Artists brush. I think this is
a good way to go. It is thick
> enough, so if you have gaps, you can bridge them and I think would
add strenght.Just remember it dires in about a minute, so don't mix
more than you can use in that time. Not sure if it's paintable, or not
I threw the package out a long time ago. I plan on adding a Fantastic
fan in that hole a little later, but for now I have 2 lists. One's a"
want" list, and one's a "need" list. I'm doing the need list first,
driveline maintanence, new tires etc. I may fabricate new brackets,
for those Bullhorns, I don't think those are heavy enough. I may point
them down too, to keep the debris out.
>
Jimmy Harvie
>
82FC 35 SB
>
Boston Ma.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go
> with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Leroy Eckert]

I do not know for certain about the plate screws because I have not had the
problem. If I took a guess, it would be that the screws screw into Rivnuts. As
for the blue and white epoxy, it works great until UV tears it up. It is
paintable.
Depending upon the material, there is a product out there called Plastic Weld
available at O'Reillys that works well if applied properly. I have used it on
plastic interior parts on the airplane with excellent results. It is paintable.
Another deal is to use JB Quick on fiberglass cracks if properly prepared, the
cracks stop. Just some info from a person who is off the chart on these things
and has good results.

Note: Properly prepared is the operative word. You can hurry the painter, but
you cannot hurry the paint.

Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
Niceville, FL





----- Original Message -----
From: James Harvie
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 12:58 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Roof vent leak


I was on top of my bus, last week, cleaning out the storage pods, and I
noticed 3 things. I had a small crack in one of the vents, the diamond plate was
loose, and 2 of the brackets that hold those 3 bullhorns on, were broken.
Yesterday I went back up, tightened up the screws on the plate. I'm not sure if
they have nuts on the other end, but I thought I was going to have to drill
oversize and install oversize screws. They were all loose, some I got 8 or 9
turns out of the screwdriver, but they all tightened up nice and tight. For the
crack in the vent, I cleaned it down with Enamel Reducer, and used that 2 part
liquid epoxy. You can get it in any auto parts store, and I'm not sure but maybe
Wally World has it too. Just look for the 2 plastic syringes tied together. One
part is blue, one clear. When you mix the two, it turns milky white, then about
20 seconds later, it turns clear. I applied it with a small Artists brush. I
think this is a good way to go. It is thick
enough, so if you have gaps, you can bridge them and I think would add
strenght.Just remember it dires in about a minute, so don't mix more than you
can use in that time. Not sure if it's paintable, or not I threw the package out
a long time ago. I plan on adding a Fantastic fan in that hole a little later,
but for now I have 2 lists. One's a" want" list, and one's a "need" list. I'm
doing the need list first, driveline maintanence, new tires etc. I may fabricate
new brackets, for those Bullhorns, I don't think those are heavy enough. I may
point them down too, to keep the debris out.
Jimmy Harvie
82FC 35 SB
Boston Ma.

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[James Harvie]

Mike, thanks. Mine screws were backed out on the outboard side, more than the
inside, It makes sense, more pressure there, because of the bow. Can you tell me
if those are machine screws, or sheet metal screws?. If they're Machine screws,
with nuts, next time, I'll try locktite. If that dosen't work, I'll replace the
outboards with studs, and nuts. And thanks for the tips on the brackets. I
haven't been in the parts base yet.

Jimmy Harvie

82FC 35 SB

Boston Ma.


mbulriss <mbulriss@...> wrote:
Jimmy,

It's pretty common to have to get up and tighten down the diamond
plate screws. I try to do it once a year.

The horn brackets are available from PMMI. There's a link for them in
the Parts database or in the Links. When I put the new ones one I let
the horn bellows rest on the diamond plate to take the pressure off
the brackets. They didn't make any vibration noise.

Mike Bulriss
1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"
San Antonio, TX

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, James Harvie
wrote:
>
> I was on top of my bus, last week, cleaning out the storage pods,
and I noticed 3 things. I had a small crack in one of the vents, the
diamond plate was loose, and 2 of the brackets that hold those 3
bullhorns on, were broken. Yesterday I went back up, tightened up the
screws on the plate. I'm not sure if they have nuts on the other end,
but I thought I was going to have to drill oversize and install
oversize screws. They were all loose, some I got 8 or 9 turns out of
the screwdriver, but they all tightened up nice and tight. For the
crack in the vent, I cleaned it down with Enamel Reducer, and used
that 2 part liquid epoxy. You can get it in any auto parts store, and
I'm not sure but maybe Wally World has it too. Just look for the 2
plastic syringes tied together. One part is blue, one clear. When you
mix the two, it turns milky white, then about 20 seconds later, it
turns clear. I applied it with a small Artists brush. I think this is
a good way to go. It is thick
> enough, so if you have gaps, you can bridge them and I think would
add strenght.Just remember it dires in about a minute, so don't mix
more than you can use in that time. Not sure if it's paintable, or not
I threw the package out a long time ago. I plan on adding a Fantastic
fan in that hole a little later, but for now I have 2 lists. One's a"
want" list, and one's a "need" list. I'm doing the need list first,
driveline maintanence, new tires etc. I may fabricate new brackets,
for those Bullhorns, I don't think those are heavy enough. I may point
them down too, to keep the debris out.
>
Jimmy Harvie
>
82FC 35 SB
>
Boston Ma.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go
> with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






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[Leroy Eckert]

Everthing is great. No complaints. The bus is just fine. Talladega in 3
weeks. Don't need a surge protector there. Oops, on second thought I may need
one. LOL
The next time your 172 cracks at the nose cowling, use JB Weld and paint. You
will not believe the results.

Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
Niceville. FL
Single and Multiengine Land Instrument rated Private Pilot, old aerobatic Swift
driver.




----- Original Message -----
From: James Harvie
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Roof vent leak


Leroy. Although JB weld has been around for about 40 years or so. I have never
been a beliver, of quick fixes. That is untill the oil pan in my plow truck
started leaking.lol I was looking at jacking up the engine, to remove the pan,
but instead, I sanded it down to shiney metal, cleaned it with carb clean and
threw a coat of that on. Now I swear by it, for certain applications. It dosen't
work too good for anything that needs structural support, but I'll bet it would
work real well as a liner on a battery box. I'll bet that roof has Rivnuts too,
I'll pull one out and look. Mabaglass works good on those airplane door panels
too. It's fiberglass combined with bondo.Oh and btw, how did you make out on
your fuel gauge problem ?
Jimmy Harvie
Leroy Eckert wrote: 82 FC 35 SB Boston I do not know for
certain about the plate screws because I have not had the problem. If I took a
guess, it would be that the screws screw into Rivnuts. As for the blue and white
epoxy, it works great until UV tears it up. It is paintable.
Depending upon the material, there is a product out there called Plastic Weld
available at O'Reillys that works well if applied properly. I have used it on
plastic interior parts on the airplane with excellent results. It is paintable.
Another deal is to use JB Quick on fiberglass cracks if properly prepared, the
cracks stop. Just some info from a person who is off the chart on these things
and has good results.

Note: Properly prepared is the operative word. You can hurry the painter, but
you cannot hurry the paint.

Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
Niceville, FL

----- Original Message -----
From: James Harvie
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 12:58 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Roof vent leak

I was on top of my bus, last week, cleaning out the storage pods, and I
noticed 3 things. I had a small crack in one of the vents, the diamond plate was
loose, and 2 of the brackets that hold those 3 bullhorns on, were broken.
Yesterday I went back up, tightened up the screws on the plate. I'm not sure if
they have nuts on the other end, but I thought I was going to have to drill
oversize and install oversize screws. They were all loose, some I got 8 or 9
turns out of the screwdriver, but they all tightened up nice and tight. For the
crack in the vent, I cleaned it down with Enamel Reducer, and used that 2 part
liquid epoxy. You can get it in any auto parts store, and I'm not sure but maybe
Wally World has it too. Just look for the 2 plastic syringes tied together. One
part is blue, one clear. When you mix the two, it turns milky white, then about
20 seconds later, it turns clear. I applied it with a small Artists brush. I
think this is a good way to go. It is thick
enough, so if you have gaps, you can bridge them and I think would add
strenght.Just remember it dires in about a minute, so don't mix more than you
can use in that time. Not sure if it's paintable, or not I threw the package out
a long time ago. I plan on adding a Fantastic fan in that hole a little later,
but for now I have 2 lists. One's a" want" list, and one's a "need" list. I'm
doing the need list first, driveline maintanence, new tires etc. I may fabricate
new brackets, for those Bullhorns, I don't think those are heavy enough. I may
point them down too, to keep the debris out.
Jimmy Harvie
82FC 35 SB
Boston Ma.

---------------------------------
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[James Harvie]

Leroy. Although JB weld has been around for about 40 years or so. I have never
been a beliver, of quick fixes. That is untill the oil pan in my plow truck
started leaking.lol I was looking at jacking up the engine, to remove the pan,
but instead, I sanded it down to shiney metal, cleaned it with carb clean and
threw a coat of that on. Now I swear by it, for certain applications. It dosen't
work too good for anything that needs structural support, but I'll bet it would
work real well as a liner on a battery box. I'll bet that roof has Rivnuts too,
I'll pull one out and look. Mabaglass works good on those airplane door panels
too. It's fiberglass combined with bondo.Oh and btw, how did you make out on
your fuel gauge problem ?
Jimmy
Harvie
Leroy Eckert wrote: 82 FC 35 SB Boston I
do not know for certain about the plate screws because I have not had the
problem. If I took a guess, it would be that the screws screw into Rivnuts. As
for the blue and white epoxy, it works great until UV tears it up. It is
paintable.
Depending upon the material, there is a product out there called Plastic Weld
available at O'Reillys that works well if applied properly. I have used it on
plastic interior parts on the airplane with excellent results. It is paintable.
Another deal is to use JB Quick on fiberglass cracks if properly prepared, the
cracks stop. Just some info from a person who is off the chart on these things
and has good results.

Note: Properly prepared is the operative word. You can hurry the painter, but
you cannot hurry the paint.

Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
Niceville, FL

----- Original Message -----
From: James Harvie
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 12:58 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Roof vent leak

I was on top of my bus, last week, cleaning out the storage pods, and I noticed
3 things. I had a small crack in one of the vents, the diamond plate was loose,
and 2 of the brackets that hold those 3 bullhorns on, were broken. Yesterday I
went back up, tightened up the screws on the plate. I'm not sure if they have
nuts on the other end, but I thought I was going to have to drill oversize and
install oversize screws. They were all loose, some I got 8 or 9 turns out of the
screwdriver, but they all tightened up nice and tight. For the crack in the
vent, I cleaned it down with Enamel Reducer, and used that 2 part liquid epoxy.
You can get it in any auto parts store, and I'm not sure but maybe Wally World
has it too. Just look for the 2 plastic syringes tied together. One part is
blue, one clear. When you mix the two, it turns milky white, then about 20
seconds later, it turns clear. I applied it with a small Artists brush. I think
this is a good way to go. It is thick
enough, so if you have gaps, you can bridge them and I think would add
strenght.Just remember it dires in about a minute, so don't mix more than you
can use in that time. Not sure if it's paintable, or not I threw the package out
a long time ago. I plan on adding a Fantastic fan in that hole a little later,
but for now I have 2 lists. One's a" want" list, and one's a "need" list. I'm
doing the need list first, driveline maintanence, new tires etc. I may fabricate
new brackets, for those Bullhorns, I don't think those are heavy enough. I may
point them down too, to keep the debris out.
Jimmy Harvie
82FC 35 SB
Boston Ma.

---------------------------------
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[Eric Johnson]

Jimmy,
Bennie at Wanderlodge suggested the fix below to repair roof plate screws that
keep
loosening up. I've used this fix and it's worked well for me for three years.
None of the
screws I've replaced this way have loosened up since.

1. Remove stripped screws
2. Fill hole with silicone sealant
3. Replace old screw with a hex head 14 X 1-1/2" HWH T/S 18-8 S/S screw.

Bennie told me the replacement screws are larger and have a lower thread pitch
than the factory original and tend to hold better.

Regards, Eric
84FC35SBWL2

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, James Harvie wrote:
>
> I was on top of my bus, last week, cleaning out the storage pods, and I
noticed 3 things.
I had a small crack in one of the vents, the diamond plate was loose, and 2 of
the brackets
that hold those 3 bullhorns on, were broken. Yesterday I went back up,
tightened up the
screws on the plate. I'm not sure if they have nuts on the other end, but I
thought I was
going to have to drill oversize and install oversize screws. They were all
loose, some I got
8 or 9 turns out of the screwdriver, but they all tightened up nice and tight.
For the crack
in the vent, I cleaned it down with Enamel Reducer, and used that 2 part liquid
epoxy. You
can get it in any auto parts store, and I'm not sure but maybe Wally World has
it too. Just
look for the 2 plastic syringes tied together. One part is blue, one clear. When
you mix the
two, it turns milky white, then about 20 seconds later, it turns clear. I
applied it with a
small Artists brush. I think this is a good way to go. It is thick
> enough, so if you have gaps, you can bridge them and I think would add
strenght.Just
remember it dires in about a minute, so don't mix more than you can use in that
time. Not
sure if it's paintable, or not I threw the package out a long time ago. I plan
on adding a
Fantastic fan in that hole a little later, but for now I have 2 lists. One's a"
want" list, and
one's a "need" list. I'm doing the need list first, driveline maintanence, new
tires etc. I may
fabricate new brackets, for those Bullhorns, I don't think those are heavy
enough. I may
point them down too, to keep the debris out.
>
Jimmy Harvie
>
82FC 35 SB
>
Boston Ma.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go
> with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[James Harvie]

What about a PA200R landing "gear up"?

Leroy Eckert wrote: Everthing is great. No
complaints. The bus is just fine. Talladega in 3 weeks. Don't need a surge
protector there. Oops, on second thought I may need one. LOL
The next time your 172 cracks at the nose cowling, use JB Weld and paint. You
will not believe the results.

Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
Niceville. FL
Single and Multiengine Land Instrument rated Private Pilot, old aerobatic Swift
driver.

----- Original Message -----
From: James Harvie
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Roof vent leak

Leroy. Although JB weld has been around for about 40 years or so. I have never
been a beliver, of quick fixes. That is untill the oil pan in my plow truck
started leaking.lol I was looking at jacking up the engine, to remove the pan,
but instead, I sanded it down to shiney metal, cleaned it with carb clean and
threw a coat of that on. Now I swear by it, for certain applications. It dosen't
work too good for anything that needs structural support, but I'll bet it would
work real well as a liner on a battery box. I'll bet that roof has Rivnuts too,
I'll pull one out and look. Mabaglass works good on those airplane door panels
too. It's fiberglass combined with bondo.Oh and btw, how did you make out on
your fuel gauge problem ?
Jimmy Harvie
Leroy Eckert wrote: 82 FC 35 SB Boston I do not know for
certain about the plate screws because I have not had the problem. If I took a
guess, it would be that the screws screw into Rivnuts. As for the blue and white
epoxy, it works great until UV tears it up. It is paintable.
Depending upon the material, there is a product out there called Plastic Weld
available at O'Reillys that works well if applied properly. I have used it on
plastic interior parts on the airplane with excellent results. It is paintable.
Another deal is to use JB Quick on fiberglass cracks if properly prepared, the
cracks stop. Just some info from a person who is off the chart on these things
and has good results.

Note: Properly prepared is the operative word. You can hurry the painter, but
you cannot hurry the paint.

Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
Niceville, FL

----- Original Message -----
From: James Harvie
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 12:58 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Roof vent leak

I was on top of my bus, last week, cleaning out the storage pods, and I noticed
3 things. I had a small crack in one of the vents, the diamond plate was loose,
and 2 of the brackets that hold those 3 bullhorns on, were broken. Yesterday I
went back up, tightened up the screws on the plate. I'm not sure if they have
nuts on the other end, but I thought I was going to have to drill oversize and
install oversize screws. They were all loose, some I got 8 or 9 turns out of the
screwdriver, but they all tightened up nice and tight. For the crack in the
vent, I cleaned it down with Enamel Reducer, and used that 2 part liquid epoxy.
You can get it in any auto parts store, and I'm not sure but maybe Wally World
has it too. Just look for the 2 plastic syringes tied together. One part is
blue, one clear. When you mix the two, it turns milky white, then about 20
seconds later, it turns clear. I applied it with a small Artists brush. I think
this is a good way to go. It is thick
enough, so if you have gaps, you can bridge them and I think would add
strenght.Just remember it dires in about a minute, so don't mix more than you
can use in that time. Not sure if it's paintable, or not I threw the package out
a long time ago. I plan on adding a Fantastic fan in that hole a little later,
but for now I have 2 lists. One's a" want" list, and one's a "need" list. I'm
doing the need list first, driveline maintanence, new tires etc. I may fabricate
new brackets, for those Bullhorns, I don't think those are heavy enough. I may
point them down too, to keep the debris out.
Jimmy Harvie
82FC 35 SB
Boston Ma.

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[James Harvie]

Eric, thanks, that's a big help. Next time these work loose, I'd like to make a
permenant repair
Jimmy Harvie
82 35 FC
Boston
Ma.
Eric Johnson wrote:
Jimmy,
Bennie at Wanderlodge suggested the fix below to repair roof plate screws that
keep
loosening up. I've used this fix and it's worked well for me for three years.
None of the
screws I've replaced this way have loosened up since.

1. Remove stripped screws
2. Fill hole with silicone sealant
3. Replace old screw with a hex head 14 X 1-1/2" HWH T/S 18-8 S/S screw.

Bennie told me the replacement screws are larger and have a lower thread pitch
than the factory original and tend to hold better.

Regards, Eric
84FC35SBWL2

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, James Harvie wrote:
>
> I was on top of my bus, last week, cleaning out the storage pods, and I
noticed 3 things.
I had a small crack in one of the vents, the diamond plate was loose, and 2 of
the brackets
that hold those 3 bullhorns on, were broken. Yesterday I went back up, tightened
up the
screws on the plate. I'm not sure if they have nuts on the other end, but I
thought I was
going to have to drill oversize and install oversize screws. They were all
loose, some I got
8 or 9 turns out of the screwdriver, but they all tightened up nice and tight.
For the crack
in the vent, I cleaned it down with Enamel Reducer, and used that 2 part liquid
epoxy. You
can get it in any auto parts store, and I'm not sure but maybe Wally World has
it too. Just
look for the 2 plastic syringes tied together. One part is blue, one clear. When
you mix the
two, it turns milky white, then about 20 seconds later, it turns clear. I
applied it with a
small Artists brush. I think this is a good way to go. It is thick
> enough, so if you have gaps, you can bridge them and I think would add
strenght.Just
remember it dires in about a minute, so don't mix more than you can use in that
time. Not
sure if it's paintable, or not I threw the package out a long time ago. I plan
on adding a
Fantastic fan in that hole a little later, but for now I have 2 lists. One's a"
want" list, and
one's a "need" list. I'm doing the need list first, driveline maintanence, new
tires etc. I may
fabricate new brackets, for those Bullhorns, I don't think those are heavy
enough. I may
point them down too, to keep the debris out.
> Jimmy Harvie
> 82FC 35 SB
> Boston Ma.
>
>
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[Leroy Eckert]

That can't be good, especially on the engine and prop. There are those who have
and those who will, all the while asking why that horn was making so much noise.
.

Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
Niceville, FL




----- Original Message -----
From: James Harvie
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2007 8:55 PM
Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Roof vent leak


What about a PA200R landing "gear up"?

Leroy Eckert wrote: Everthing is great. No complaints.
The bus is just fine. Talladega in 3 weeks. Don't need a surge protector there.
Oops, on second thought I may need one. LOL
The next time your 172 cracks at the nose cowling, use JB Weld and paint. You
will not believe the results.

Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
Niceville. FL
Single and Multiengine Land Instrument rated Private Pilot, old aerobatic
Swift driver.

----- Original Message -----
From: James Harvie
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Roof vent leak

Leroy. Although JB weld has been around for about 40 years or so. I have never
been a beliver, of quick fixes. That is untill the oil pan in my plow truck
started leaking.lol I was looking at jacking up the engine, to remove the pan,
but instead, I sanded it down to shiney metal, cleaned it with carb clean and
threw a coat of that on. Now I swear by it, for certain applications. It dosen't
work too good for anything that needs structural support, but I'll bet it would
work real well as a liner on a battery box. I'll bet that roof has Rivnuts too,
I'll pull one out and look. Mabaglass works good on those airplane door panels
too. It's fiberglass combined with bondo.Oh and btw, how did you make out on
your fuel gauge problem ?
Jimmy Harvie
Leroy Eckert wrote: 82 FC 35 SB Boston I do not know for
certain about the plate screws because I have not had the problem. If I took a
guess, it would be that the screws screw into Rivnuts. As for the blue and white
epoxy, it works great until UV tears it up. It is paintable.
Depending upon the material, there is a product out there called Plastic Weld
available at O'Reillys that works well if applied properly. I have used it on
plastic interior parts on the airplane with excellent results. It is paintable.
Another deal is to use JB Quick on fiberglass cracks if properly prepared, the
cracks stop. Just some info from a person who is off the chart on these things
and has good results.

Note: Properly prepared is the operative word. You can hurry the painter, but
you cannot hurry the paint.

Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
Niceville, FL

----- Original Message -----
From: James Harvie
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 12:58 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Roof vent leak

I was on top of my bus, last week, cleaning out the storage pods, and I
noticed 3 things. I had a small crack in one of the vents, the diamond plate was
loose, and 2 of the brackets that hold those 3 bullhorns on, were broken.
Yesterday I went back up, tightened up the screws on the plate. I'm not sure if
they have nuts on the other end, but I thought I was going to have to drill
oversize and install oversize screws. They were all loose, some I got 8 or 9
turns out of the screwdriver, but they all tightened up nice and tight. For the
crack in the vent, I cleaned it down with Enamel Reducer, and used that 2 part
liquid epoxy. You can get it in any auto parts store, and I'm not sure but maybe
Wally World has it too. Just look for the 2 plastic syringes tied together. One
part is blue, one clear. When you mix the two, it turns milky white, then about
20 seconds later, it turns clear. I applied it with a small Artists brush. I
think this is a good way to go. It is thick
enough, so if you have gaps, you can bridge them and I think would add
strenght.Just remember it dires in about a minute, so don't mix more than you
can use in that time. Not sure if it's paintable, or not I threw the package out
a long time ago. I plan on adding a Fantastic fan in that hole a little later,
but for now I have 2 lists. One's a" want" list, and one's a "need" list. I'm
doing the need list first, driveline maintanence, new tires etc. I may fabricate
new brackets, for those Bullhorns, I don't think those are heavy enough. I may
point them down too, to keep the debris out.
Jimmy Harvie
82FC 35 SB
Boston Ma.

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