Additional Engine Cooling System

[Rob Robinson]

Bob can you tell me what is a 'swamp system' and how does it work?

On 22/06/07, Bob & Carol Howald` wrote:
>
> I ran a 4 inch scoop on my 84-1/2 pt. for several years. (might
> still be on it) it was made of stainless steel. It mounted vertically
> on the rear of the radiator grill using the existing screw holes.
> Easy to take on and off. I always thought it helped somewhat in the
> cooling although it's hard to document. I also had a store bought
> swamp system installed with the metered water controlled by a switch
> at the driver station this was very effective when used. Ernie, I had
> deerskins make the scoop they have the shop west of Springtown on the
> Jacksboro hwy. It had two slight bends in it, looked good. Bob 93pt40
> Illinois....
>
> geForum@yahoogroups.com , erniecarpet@...
> wrote:
> >
> > Would that scoop be better in the rear or in front of the louvered
> panel?
> > Ask me about carpet- I know little about aero-dynamics.
> >
> > Ernie Ekberg
> > 83PT40
> > Livingston, Mt
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ************************************** See what's free at
> http://www.aol.com.
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>



--
Rob, Sue & Merlin Robinson
94 WLWB


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[msecoolcal@...]

For some reason I can't seem to get any help here on this forum. You guys
are either a closed bunch or you all are just a few floors up from me, either
way I just thought I would add my two cents to the overheating issue. Wait, I
almost forgot there for a moment my position in the pecking order, my one
cent.

As to cooling, it seems to me that all cooling systems with a radiator work
the same. If everything is in its proper working order then it's a lot easier
to solve the overheating problem. I have been restoring antique cars for over
50 years and they seem to be the most problematic when it comes to cooling.
Many lessons have been learned cutting my teeth on old cars. A non
pressurized system starts right out of the gate with a handicap. Fortunately
having a
pressurized system makes the work go faster. In every case of overheating it
starts with a radiator not working to its maximum potential. Most often
clogged tubes. Once that's solved check the thermostat and never remove it or
alter
it. Next the timing of the engine and the heat range of the spark plugs. Do
an exhaust gas test on the radiator. This is for all systems including
generators.If all this is on target then the next step is the coolant. And yes I
know Diesel applications are different but not the cooling system.

Everybody has an opinion on the application of coolant. I am in a non freeze
zone and have never taken my rig out in real cold weather so what works for
me will not necessarily work for all. I do not use antifreeze EVER. I use a
combination of regular water (never use distilled water) and a product called -
hy-per lube. This has everything in it to take care of all the gremlins in
a cooling system. It can be added to antifreeze with no problem but antifreeze
should only be used in this combination in extreme weather conditions.
Antifreeze and plain water does not offer optimum cooling by itself. Coolant
technology has come a long way and has much to offer. I consider myself
fortunate
to have found a coolant combination that works. I have tested this combo in
everything from race cars to Ferraris. Presently its in everything I own
including my Bluebird that when first received had overheating problems on
hills,
no longer.

I am not patting myself on the back nor standing on a soap box just sharing
my experience with overheating and what has worked for me over the years. My
one cent worth. It is not necessary for any of you reproach my contribution
just read it and move on with your life.

Matthew
1979 fc 35 sb
two floors down in So Cal



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Bob & Carol Howald`]

Rob: The swamp cool system is an aux cooling system that take's
water from your potable water tank and spray's it on to the radiator.
The store bought system I had included a small pump,line's ,spray
jet's and controler. From the driver station you would turn the pump
on when needed and select one of three water delivery speed's
depending on need. The pump would force water to 6 nozzles that were
wire tied in front of the radiator. It was simple to install and
effective. Bob 93pt40..illinois





"Rob Robinson" wrote:
>
> Bob can you tell me what is a 'swamp system' and how does it work?
>
> On 22/06/07, Bob & Carol Howald` wrote:
> >
> > I ran a 4 inch scoop on my 84-1/2 pt. for several years. (might
> > still be on it) it was made of stainless steel. It mounted
vertically
> > on the rear of the radiator grill using the existing screw holes.
> > Easy to take on and off. I always thought it helped somewhat in
the
> > cooling although it's hard to document. I also had a store bought
> > swamp system installed with the metered water controlled by a
switch
> > at the driver station this was very effective when used. Ernie, I
had
> > deerskins make the scoop they have the shop west of Springtown on
the
> > Jacksboro hwy. It had two slight bends in it, looked good. Bob
93pt40
> > Illinois....
> >
> > geForum@yahoogroups.com , erniecarpet@
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Would that scoop be better in the rear or in front of the
louvered
> > panel?
> > > Ask me about carpet- I know little about aero-dynamics.
> > >
> > > Ernie Ekberg
> > > 83PT40
> > > Livingston, Mt
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ************************************** See what's free at
> > http://www.aol.com.
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Rob, Sue & Merlin Robinson
> 94 WLWB
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Don Bradner]

Bob, since one of the things we've been discussing is consumption, can you give
us any idea what your water consumption was with this system?

Don Bradner
90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
Eureka, CA

On 6/22/2007 at 2:37 PM Bob & Carol Howald` wrote:

>Rob: The swamp cool system is an aux cooling system that take's
>water from your potable water tank and spray's it on to the radiator.
>The store bought system I had included a small pump,line's ,spray
>jet's and controler. From the driver station you would turn the pump
>on when needed and select one of three water delivery speed's
>depending on need. The pump would force water to 6 nozzles that were
>wire tied in front of the radiator. It was simple to install and
>effective. Bob 93pt40..illinois

[Bob & Carol Howald`]

Don: I don't know. It could not have been much. the pump was a
very small sure-flow about the size of a doubled fist. the nozzel's
would spray a fine mist. The pump had variable speeds and I had it
hooked to my potable water tank. I don't think the amount of water
used would be very much. Bob 93pt-40


"Don Bradner" wrote:
>
> Bob, since one of the things we've been discussing is consumption,
can you give us any idea what your water consumption was with this
system?
>
> Don Bradner
> 90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
> Eureka, CA
>
> On 6/22/2007 at 2:37 PM Bob & Carol Howald` wrote:
>
> >Rob: The swamp cool system is an aux cooling system that take's
> >water from your potable water tank and spray's it on to the
radiator.
> >The store bought system I had included a small pump,line's ,spray
> >jet's and controler. From the driver station you would turn the
pump
> >on when needed and select one of three water delivery speed's
> >depending on need. The pump would force water to 6 nozzles that
were
> >wire tied in front of the radiator. It was simple to install and
> >effective. Bob 93pt40..illinois
>

[truitt44@...>]

I don't see why BB did not mount the grill over the radiator the same as on the
other side over the batteries using the pressure struts. On my coach the grill
over the radiator has about two dozen screws in it. It's not mounted simple like
yours Leroy. I guess BB learned as they went along.
Howard Truitt
Camilla, Ga.
86 PT40

>
> From: "Leroy Eckert"
> Date: 2007/06/21 Thu PM 09:44:51 EDT
> To:
> Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Additional Engine Cooling System
>
> I think the scoop would need to be designed to be easily removed to access the
radiator grill. On my coach there are four spring loaded screws on top that hold
the grill in place. The bottom has brackets that the grill sits in. Pretty
simple.
> Making one out of 20 gauge #8 polished stainless steel without welds may be
another story. Painted fiberglass may be a cheaper alternative.
>
> Leroy Eckert
> 1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
> Niceville, FL

[erniecarpet@...]

Hi Bob- will check them out when i get home-

Ernie Ekberg
83PT40
Livingston, Mt
---90 degrees



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[msecoolcal@...]

Ken,
Please refer to _www.hyperlube.com_ (http://www.hyperlube.com) for the
answer to any technical questions. If my toast comes out medium and on both
sides
then I know all is right with the world beyond that you got me.

Matthew
1979fc35sb
Just two floors down in So Cal



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[four_heavyfeet]

Matthew,Does this product Hy-per lube address Molybdate,Nitrite, and
water cavitation around the cylinder wall?

Ken Kalmakoff
1982sb 35
Richmond BC Canada

>
> For some reason I can't seem to get any help here on this forum.
You guys
> are either a closed bunch or you all are just a few floors up from
me, either
> way I just thought I would add my two cents to the overheating
issue. Wait, I
> almost forgot there for a moment my position in the pecking order,
my one
> cent.
>
> As to cooling, it seems to me that all cooling systems with a
radiator work
> the same. If everything is in its proper working order then it's a
lot easier
> to solve the overheating problem. I have been restoring antique
cars for over
> 50 years and they seem to be the most problematic when it comes to
cooling.
> Many lessons have been learned cutting my teeth on old cars. A non
> pressurized system starts right out of the gate with a handicap.
Fortunately having a
> pressurized system makes the work go faster. In every case of
overheating it
> starts with a radiator not working to its maximum potential. Most
often
> clogged tubes. Once that's solved check the thermostat and never
remove it or alter
> it. Next the timing of the engine and the heat range of the spark
plugs. Do
> an exhaust gas test on the radiator. This is for all systems
including
> generators.If all this is on target then the next step is the
coolant. And yes I
> know Diesel applications are different but not the cooling system.
>
> Everybody has an opinion on the application of coolant. I am in a
non freeze
> zone and have never taken my rig out in real cold weather so what
works for
> me will not necessarily work for all. I do not use antifreeze EVER.
I use a
> combination of regular water (never use distilled water) and a
product called -
> hy-per lube. This has everything in it to take care of all the
gremlins in
> a cooling system. It can be added to antifreeze with no problem but
antifreeze
> should only be used in this combination in extreme weather
conditions.
> Antifreeze and plain water does not offer optimum cooling by
itself. Coolant
> technology has come a long way and has much to offer. I consider
myself fortunate
> to have found a coolant combination that works. I have tested this
combo in
> everything from race cars to Ferraris. Presently its in everything
I own
> including my Bluebird that when first received had overheating
problems on hills,
> no longer.
>
> I am not patting myself on the back nor standing on a soap box just
sharing
> my experience with overheating and what has worked for me over the
years. My
> one cent worth. It is not necessary for any of you reproach my
contribution
> just read it and move on with your life.
>
> Matthew
> 1979 fc 35 sb
> two floors down in So Cal
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[ronmarabito2002]

Unfortunately, Hyper-Lube does not provide any protection against
cavitation, which was brought up by another individual in a previous
message. You might get better cooling, but there are no SCA's in the
stuff. Gasoline engines do not have this problem. Only diesel
engines. I suggest you contact your engine manufacturer for their
recommendations related to this matter.

R.E. (Ron) Marabito, Dallas, TX 92WB40
Wanderlodge Forum Moderator

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, msecoolcal@... wrote:
>
> Ken,
> Please refer to _www.hyperlube.com_ (http://www.hyperlube.com) for
the
> answer to any technical questions. If my toast comes out medium and
on both sides
> then I know all is right with the world beyond that you got me.
>
> Matthew
> 1979fc35sb
> Just two floors down in So Cal
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>