Painting project

[Don Bradner]

I did my best not to go down to the zinc, and was successful to a great part -
up on that blue in many cases the original coats went
blue/gold/red/gold/silver/primer! Where I did go through I used a self-etching
primer, and all surfaces, painted or otherwise were prepped with Nason Silicone
Wax Remover.

On 7/16/2007 at 11:40 PM Gardner Yeaw wrote:

>What did you do to prep the galvanized surface to insure the primer
>got a good hold?
>
>Gardner
>78fc33
>
>--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
> wrote:
>>
>> Nason calls for 2 coats with metallic, but I find that it is color-
>specific dependent on the amount of pigment in the paint. The gold
>has to go on very thin or it will run - less solids, so it takes 5
>coats. The red takes 2, and the blue and silver take 3. Nason could
>probably be considered "econo Imron" and it is not easy to tell how
>they differ, since Imron has a couple of non-clearcoat products
>(3500 and 400) as well.

[smquandt]

Don



Great job, I have to do the same with mine some day, same place. I'll be
full of questions then.



Steve Quandt

1993 PT-40

Iron Mountain, MI



-----Original Message-----
From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Don Bradner
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 7:20 PM
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Painting project



I did my best not to go down to the zinc, and was successful to a great part
- up on that blue in many cases the original coats went
blue/gold/red/gold/silver/primer! Where I did go through I used a
self-etching primer, and all surfaces, painted or otherwise were prepped
with Nason Silicone Wax Remover.

On 7/16/2007 at 11:40 PM Gardner Yeaw wrote:

>What did you do to prep the galvanized surface to insure the primer
>got a good hold?
>
>Gardner
>78fc33
>
>--- In WanderlodgeForum@
yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
> wrote:
>>
>> Nason calls for 2 coats with metallic, but I find that it is color-
>specific dependent on the amount of pigment in the paint. The gold
>has to go on very thin or it will run - less solids, so it takes 5
>coats. The red takes 2, and the blue and silver take 3. Nason could
>probably be considered "econo Imron" and it is not easy to tell how
>they differ, since Imron has a couple of non-clearcoat products
>(3500 and 400) as well.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Gardner Yeaw]

Leroy,
Thanks. My paint is pealing in places right down to the galvanized
surface. It would seem that I really should get down to that and
start fresh when/if I actually do start painting. I may do the Front
and rear, then think about the sides and roof. In the North East the
weather just isn't stable enough for planning a big paint job.

Gardner
78FC33


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Leroy Eckert"
wrote:
>
> I know your post was for Don. Scuff it with ScotchBright and
follow with PrepSol. And be certain you do not use a can of silicone
lubricant anywhere nearby. Fisheyes will be the result. Just do not
have that stuff in the shop.
> Leroy Eckert
> 1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors'
> Niceville, FL
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Gardner Yeaw
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 6:40 PM
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Painting project
>
>
> What did you do to prep the galvanized surface to insure the
primer
> got a good hold?
>
> Gardner
> 78fc33
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
> wrote:
> >
> > Nason calls for 2 coats with metallic, but I find that it is
color-
> specific dependent on the amount of pigment in the paint. The
gold
> has to go on very thin or it will run - less solids, so it takes
5
> coats. The red takes 2, and the blue and silver take 3. Nason
could
> probably be considered "econo Imron" and it is not easy to tell
how
> they differ, since Imron has a couple of non-clearcoat products
> (3500 and 400) as well.
> >
> > On 7/16/2007 at 5:43 PM Leroy Eckert wrote:
> >
> > >I have not used that product. I would expect that you could
thin
> the
> > >final coat (I use three coats with Impron)with a little more
> reducer to
> > >create a wet coat to get the paint to lay out if you are not
> satisfied.
> > >Just do not get in a hurry.That is what I did with Imron on
my
> airplane.
> > >To aid in prep work, the most important part of a paint job,
I
> use a hand
> > >held sand blaster I purchased from the paint store. Blasting
sand
> from Ace
> > >Hardware can speed up the prep process over rivets and tight
> spots. You
> > >gotta shower when finished. The rain drop spots may be able
to be
> removed
> > >by wet sanding and buffing with compound.
> > >Looks really good. Great job.
> > >Leroy Eckert
> > >1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
> > >Niceville, FL
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Leroy Eckert]

You can do it one section at a time if your plan properly. Use seams in the
metal taped off properly and over a period of time not one single person will
ever know unless you tell them.
Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
Niceville, FL
Royale Conversion
----- Original Message -----
From: Gardner Yeaw
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 7:50 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Painting project


Leroy,
Thanks. My paint is pealing in places right down to the galvanized
surface. It would seem that I really should get down to that and
start fresh when/if I actually do start painting. I may do the Front
and rear, then think about the sides and roof. In the North East the
weather just isn't stable enough for planning a big paint job.

Gardner
78FC33

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Leroy Eckert"
wrote:
>
> I know your post was for Don. Scuff it with ScotchBright and
follow with PrepSol. And be certain you do not use a can of silicone
lubricant anywhere nearby. Fisheyes will be the result. Just do not
have that stuff in the shop.
> Leroy Eckert
> 1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors'
> Niceville, FL
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Gardner Yeaw
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 6:40 PM
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Painting project
>
>
> What did you do to prep the galvanized surface to insure the
primer
> got a good hold?
>
> Gardner
> 78fc33
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
> wrote:
> >
> > Nason calls for 2 coats with metallic, but I find that it is
color-
> specific dependent on the amount of pigment in the paint. The
gold
> has to go on very thin or it will run - less solids, so it takes
5
> coats. The red takes 2, and the blue and silver take 3. Nason
could
> probably be considered "econo Imron" and it is not easy to tell
how
> they differ, since Imron has a couple of non-clearcoat products
> (3500 and 400) as well.
> >
> > On 7/16/2007 at 5:43 PM Leroy Eckert wrote:
> >
> > >I have not used that product. I would expect that you could
thin
> the
> > >final coat (I use three coats with Impron)with a little more
> reducer to
> > >create a wet coat to get the paint to lay out if you are not
> satisfied.
> > >Just do not get in a hurry.That is what I did with Imron on
my
> airplane.
> > >To aid in prep work, the most important part of a paint job,
I
> use a hand
> > >held sand blaster I purchased from the paint store. Blasting
sand
> from Ace
> > >Hardware can speed up the prep process over rivets and tight
> spots. You
> > >gotta shower when finished. The rain drop spots may be able
to be
> removed
> > >by wet sanding and buffing with compound.
> > >Looks really good. Great job.
> > >Leroy Eckert
> > >1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
> > >Niceville, FL
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[mbulriss]

Wow, I'll second that 'Atta Boy'! Way to go Don. I don't have the
patience to be a good painter.

Mike Bulriss
1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"
San Antoni, TX



--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, David Brady wrote:
>
> Looks like a million bucks Don, way to go.
>
> David Brady
> '02 LXi, Smokey
> NC
>
> Don Bradner wrote:
> >
> > Our ongoing lengthy project list since we acquired Blue Thunder in
> > January includes replacement of old operational equipment such as
> > batteries, shocks, tires, and alternators; physical changes to agree
> > with our wants, such as washer/dryer, bookcase/desk/office chair, and
> > bay slideout trays; and cosmetic items.
> >
> > The latter is/was primarily paint. Several years in the Arizona sun
> > had baked much of the clear coat off on both sides and the back. The
> > front cap is fine, but has likely been repainted at some point. I did
> > the worst single spot (blue on the back cap) before we left for a
> > month of travels in early May, and the rest has been my most
> > time-consuming project since we got back.
> >
> > I'm pretty much a neophyte when it comes to spray-painting, so this
> > has been a learning experience with a lot of picking the brains at
the
> > local Dupont shop, where most of the guys have body-shop experience.
> > The bulk of the labor, of course, is in surface prep and masking.
> >
> > I looked through the pictures I have on hand to find a couple that
> > were illustrative of the problem and tried to take similar "after"
> > pictures. The first one, http://tinyurl.com/2w53e2
> > <http://tinyurl.com/2w53e2> was taken in February in Casa Grande. It
> > is part of a telephoto shot, so there's quite a bit of
> > fore-shortening, and the lighting was very flat which reduced
> > contrast, but you can see the missing clear coat pretty well.
> >
> > Since the blue heats up more, it is much more affected than the
> > stripes; in fact the side stripes below the bend are fine and were
> > left alone. The area below the stripes (what do you call that piece,
> > anyway? Looks designed to direct water flow from the roof outward)
was
> > a particular problem. It is a compound curve, making sanding with a
> > block difficult. It was missing clear coat in oval patterns, with the
> > areas over ribs still holding the coat. Trying to feather the edges
> > didn't work well, as clearcoat kept peeling away, so it was
> > essentially necessary to sand it all.
> >
> > The upper part of the gold and red stripes weren't as bad looking,
but
> > still had bad peeling. This picture: http://tinyurl.com/2w6ukx
> > <http://tinyurl.com/2w6ukx> was taken in Phoenix by the inspector we
> > hired pre-purchase.
> >
> > Here are the after links for roughly the same two views:
> > http://tinyurl.com/2kjvqo <http://tinyurl.com/2kjvqo>
> > http://tinyurl.com/2jv2lf <http://tinyurl.com/2jv2lf>
> >
> > I'm pretty happy with the results, although I did get a small,
> > unpredicted, rain shower about an hour after I finished the other
side
> > late last week, and there are some pock marks in the paint on three
> > panels. You can't really tell from the ground, so I'm waiting
until it
> > is cured a bit more to see what a bit of 1500-grit sanding and
> > polishing does.
> >
> > Don Bradner
> > 90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
> > Eureka, CA
> >
> >
> >
------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.6/902 - Release Date:
7/15/2007 2:21 PM
> >
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Don Bradner]

I did a lot of that. The weather here provides very few days conducive to long
painting stints outside. Most mornings there is fog/drizzle, and by the time the
surfaces are dry, the wind is up above 5mph and too steady to catch a break.

Of course prep takes most of the time, but for painting I would have to wait for
a morning where it was clear or nearly clear, and maybe a one-hour painting
window with calm air.

Don Bradner
90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
Eureka, CA

On 7/16/2007 at 8:03 PM Leroy Eckert wrote:

>You can do it one section at a time if your plan properly. Use seams in
>the metal taped off properly and over a period of time not one single
>person will ever know unless you tell them.
>Leroy Eckert
>1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
>Niceville, FL
>Royale Conversion
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Gardner Yeaw
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 7:50 PM
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Painting project
>
>
> Leroy,
> Thanks. My paint is pealing in places right down to the galvanized
> surface. It would seem that I really should get down to that and
> start fresh when/if I actually do start painting. I may do the Front
> and rear, then think about the sides and roof. In the North East the
> weather just isn't stable enough for planning a big paint job.

[Gardner Yeaw]

Leroy,
I know you are right about one section at a time. My problem is
that I still have a job. I can only get to work on the Bird one day
per good weather weekend. There just ain't enough time to keep it
running well, washed, waxed, etc. and think about painting.

Gardner
78FC33

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Leroy Eckert"
wrote:
>
> You can do it one section at a time if your plan properly. Use
seams in the metal taped off properly and over a period of time not
one single person will ever know unless you tell them.
> Leroy Eckert
> 1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
> Niceville, FL
> Royale Conversion
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Gardner Yeaw
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 7:50 PM
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Painting project
>
>
> Leroy,
> Thanks. My paint is pealing in places right down to the
galvanized
> surface. It would seem that I really should get down to that and
> start fresh when/if I actually do start painting. I may do the
Front
> and rear, then think about the sides and roof. In the North East
the
> weather just isn't stable enough for planning a big paint job.
>
> Gardner
> 78FC33
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Leroy Eckert"
> wrote:
> >
> > I know your post was for Don. Scuff it with ScotchBright and
> follow with PrepSol. And be certain you do not use a can of
silicone
> lubricant anywhere nearby. Fisheyes will be the result. Just do
not
> have that stuff in the shop.
> > Leroy Eckert
> > 1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors'
> > Niceville, FL
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Gardner Yeaw
> > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 6:40 PM
> > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Painting project
> >
> >
> > What did you do to prep the galvanized surface to insure the
> primer
> > got a good hold?
> >
> > Gardner
> > 78fc33
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Nason calls for 2 coats with metallic, but I find that it is
> color-
> > specific dependent on the amount of pigment in the paint. The
> gold
> > has to go on very thin or it will run - less solids, so it
takes
> 5
> > coats. The red takes 2, and the blue and silver take 3. Nason
> could
> > probably be considered "econo Imron" and it is not easy to
tell
> how
> > they differ, since Imron has a couple of non-clearcoat
products
> > (3500 and 400) as well.
> > >
> > > On 7/16/2007 at 5:43 PM Leroy Eckert wrote:
> > >
> > > >I have not used that product. I would expect that you could
> thin
> > the
> > > >final coat (I use three coats with Impron)with a little
more
> > reducer to
> > > >create a wet coat to get the paint to lay out if you are
not
> > satisfied.
> > > >Just do not get in a hurry.That is what I did with Imron on
> my
> > airplane.
> > > >To aid in prep work, the most important part of a paint
job,
> I
> > use a hand
> > > >held sand blaster I purchased from the paint store.
Blasting
> sand
> > from Ace
> > > >Hardware can speed up the prep process over rivets and
tight
> > spots. You
> > > >gotta shower when finished. The rain drop spots may be able
> to be
> > removed
> > > >by wet sanding and buffing with compound.
> > > >Looks really good. Great job.
> > > >Leroy Eckert
> > > >1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
> > > >Niceville, FL
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Leroy Eckert]

I know what you mean. I spent 5 years of Sundays restoring an airplane. It is
gratifying. However you can go anywhere in your coach with it half painted and
that is perfectly ok. Enjoy it while you work on it. It took me five years to
fly it then I sold it to my partner. lol
Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-Smoke N Mirrors"
Niceville, FL
Royale Conversion

----- Original Message -----
From: Gardner Yeaw
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 9:08 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Painting project


Leroy,
I know you are right about one section at a time. My problem is
that I still have a job. I can only get to work on the Bird one day
per good weather weekend. There just ain't enough time to keep it
running well, washed, waxed, etc. and think about painting.

Gardner
78FC33

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Leroy Eckert"
wrote:
>
> You can do it one section at a time if your plan properly. Use
seams in the metal taped off properly and over a period of time not
one single person will ever know unless you tell them.
> Leroy Eckert
> 1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
> Niceville, FL
> Royale Conversion
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Gardner Yeaw
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 7:50 PM
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Painting project
>
>
> Leroy,
> Thanks. My paint is pealing in places right down to the
galvanized
> surface. It would seem that I really should get down to that and
> start fresh when/if I actually do start painting. I may do the
Front
> and rear, then think about the sides and roof. In the North East
the
> weather just isn't stable enough for planning a big paint job.
>
> Gardner
> 78FC33
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Leroy Eckert"
> wrote:
> >
> > I know your post was for Don. Scuff it with ScotchBright and
> follow with PrepSol. And be certain you do not use a can of
silicone
> lubricant anywhere nearby. Fisheyes will be the result. Just do
not
> have that stuff in the shop.
> > Leroy Eckert
> > 1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors'
> > Niceville, FL
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Gardner Yeaw
> > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 6:40 PM
> > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Painting project
> >
> >
> > What did you do to prep the galvanized surface to insure the
> primer
> > got a good hold?
> >
> > Gardner
> > 78fc33
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Nason calls for 2 coats with metallic, but I find that it is
> color-
> > specific dependent on the amount of pigment in the paint. The
> gold
> > has to go on very thin or it will run - less solids, so it
takes
> 5
> > coats. The red takes 2, and the blue and silver take 3. Nason
> could
> > probably be considered "econo Imron" and it is not easy to
tell
> how
> > they differ, since Imron has a couple of non-clearcoat
products
> > (3500 and 400) as well.
> > >
> > > On 7/16/2007 at 5:43 PM Leroy Eckert wrote:
> > >
> > > >I have not used that product. I would expect that you could
> thin
> > the
> > > >final coat (I use three coats with Impron)with a little
more
> > reducer to
> > > >create a wet coat to get the paint to lay out if you are
not
> > satisfied.
> > > >Just do not get in a hurry.That is what I did with Imron on
> my
> > airplane.
> > > >To aid in prep work, the most important part of a paint
job,
> I
> > use a hand
> > > >held sand blaster I purchased from the paint store.
Blasting
> sand
> > from Ace
> > > >Hardware can speed up the prep process over rivets and
tight
> > spots. You
> > > >gotta shower when finished. The rain drop spots may be able
> to be
> > removed
> > > >by wet sanding and buffing with compound.
> > > >Looks really good. Great job.
> > > >Leroy Eckert
> > > >1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
> > > >Niceville, FL
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Gardner Yeaw]

Leroy,
If I have a choice of taking a trip or working on the Bird, the
trip wins. What I dream of is a restoration campground. One that
caters to folks restoring coaches of any make. It would be great if
such a place existed. Imagine having a group of experienced RV
technicians, mechanics, interior specialists, and other kinds of
services in a concentraited area. Pull in, set up, and get out the
Mastercard.

Gardner
78FC33

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Leroy Eckert"
wrote:
>
> I know what you mean. I spent 5 years of Sundays restoring an
airplane. It is gratifying. However you can go anywhere in your
coach with it half painted and that is perfectly ok. Enjoy it while
you work on it. It took me five years to fly it then I sold it to my
partner. lol
> Leroy Eckert
> 1990 WB-Smoke N Mirrors"
> Niceville, FL
> Royale Conversion
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Gardner Yeaw
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 9:08 PM
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Painting project
>
>
> Leroy,
> I know you are right about one section at a time. My problem is
> that I still have a job. I can only get to work on the Bird one
day
> per good weather weekend. There just ain't enough time to keep
it
> running well, washed, waxed, etc. and think about painting.
>
> Gardner
> 78FC33
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Leroy Eckert"
> wrote:
> >
> > You can do it one section at a time if your plan properly. Use
> seams in the metal taped off properly and over a period of time
not
> one single person will ever know unless you tell them.
> > Leroy Eckert
> > 1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
> > Niceville, FL
> > Royale Conversion
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Gardner Yeaw
> > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 7:50 PM
> > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Painting project
> >
> >
> > Leroy,
> > Thanks. My paint is pealing in places right down to the
> galvanized
> > surface. It would seem that I really should get down to that
and
> > start fresh when/if I actually do start painting. I may do the
> Front
> > and rear, then think about the sides and roof. In the North
East
> the
> > weather just isn't stable enough for planning a big paint job.
> >
> > Gardner
> > 78FC33
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Leroy Eckert"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > I know your post was for Don. Scuff it with ScotchBright and
> > follow with PrepSol. And be certain you do not use a can of
> silicone
> > lubricant anywhere nearby. Fisheyes will be the result. Just
do
> not
> > have that stuff in the shop.
> > > Leroy Eckert
> > > 1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors'
> > > Niceville, FL
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Gardner Yeaw
> > > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 6:40 PM
> > > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Painting project
> > >
> > >
> > > What did you do to prep the galvanized surface to insure the
> > primer
> > > got a good hold?
> > >
> > > Gardner
> > > 78fc33
> > >
> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Nason calls for 2 coats with metallic, but I find that it
is
> > color-
> > > specific dependent on the amount of pigment in the paint.
The
> > gold
> > > has to go on very thin or it will run - less solids, so it
> takes
> > 5
> > > coats. The red takes 2, and the blue and silver take 3.
Nason
> > could
> > > probably be considered "econo Imron" and it is not easy to
> tell
> > how
> > > they differ, since Imron has a couple of non-clearcoat
> products
> > > (3500 and 400) as well.
> > > >
> > > > On 7/16/2007 at 5:43 PM Leroy Eckert wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >I have not used that product. I would expect that you
could
> > thin
> > > the
> > > > >final coat (I use three coats with Impron)with a little
> more
> > > reducer to
> > > > >create a wet coat to get the paint to lay out if you are
> not
> > > satisfied.
> > > > >Just do not get in a hurry.That is what I did with Imron
on
> > my
> > > airplane.
> > > > >To aid in prep work, the most important part of a paint
> job,
> > I
> > > use a hand
> > > > >held sand blaster I purchased from the paint store.
> Blasting
> > sand
> > > from Ace
> > > > >Hardware can speed up the prep process over rivets and
> tight
> > > spots. You
> > > > >gotta shower when finished. The rain drop spots may be
able
> > to be
> > > removed
> > > > >by wet sanding and buffing with compound.
> > > > >Looks really good. Great job.
> > > > >Leroy Eckert
> > > > >1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
> > > > >Niceville, FL
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Rob Robinson]

I think you just described Elkhart Indiana

On 16/07/07, Gardner Yeaw wrote:
>
> Leroy,
> If I have a choice of taking a trip or working on the Bird, the
> trip wins. What I dream of is a restoration campground. One that
> caters to folks restoring coaches of any make. It would be great if
> such a place existed. Imagine having a group of experienced RV
> technicians, mechanics, interior specialists, and other kinds of
> services in a concentraited area. Pull in, set up, and get out the
> Mastercard.
>
> Gardner
> 78FC33
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com,
> "Leroy Eckert"
> wrote:
> >
> > I know what you mean. I spent 5 years of Sundays restoring an
> airplane. It is gratifying. However you can go anywhere in your
> coach with it half painted and that is perfectly ok. Enjoy it while
> you work on it. It took me five years to fly it then I sold it to my
> partner. lol
> > Leroy Eckert
> > 1990 WB-Smoke N Mirrors"
> > Niceville, FL
> > Royale Conversion
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Gardner Yeaw
> > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 9:08 PM
> > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Painting project
> >
> >
> > Leroy,
> > I know you are right about one section at a time. My problem is
> > that I still have a job. I can only get to work on the Bird one
> day
> > per good weather weekend. There just ain't enough time to keep
> it
> > running well, washed, waxed, etc. and think about painting.
> >
> > Gardner
> > 78FC33
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com,
> "Leroy Eckert"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > You can do it one section at a time if your plan properly. Use
> > seams in the metal taped off properly and over a period of time
> not
> > one single person will ever know unless you tell them.
> > > Leroy Eckert
> > > 1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
> > > Niceville, FL
> > > Royale Conversion
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Gardner Yeaw
> > > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 7:50 PM
> > > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Painting project
> > >
> > >
> > > Leroy,
> > > Thanks. My paint is pealing in places right down to the
> > galvanized
> > > surface. It would seem that I really should get down to that
> and
> > > start fresh when/if I actually do start painting. I may do the
> > Front
> > > and rear, then think about the sides and roof. In the North
> East
> > the
> > > weather just isn't stable enough for planning a big paint job.
> > >
> > > Gardner
> > > 78FC33
> > >
> > > --- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com,
> "Leroy Eckert"
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I know your post was for Don. Scuff it with ScotchBright and
> > > follow with PrepSol. And be certain you do not use a can of
> > silicone
> > > lubricant anywhere nearby. Fisheyes will be the result. Just
> do
> > not
> > > have that stuff in the shop.
> > > > Leroy Eckert
> > > > 1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors'
> > > > Niceville, FL
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: Gardner Yeaw
> > > > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 6:40 PM
> > > > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Painting project
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > What did you do to prep the galvanized surface to insure the
> > > primer
> > > > got a good hold?
> > > >
> > > > Gardner
> > > > 78fc33
> > > >
> > > > --- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com,
> "Don Bradner"
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Nason calls for 2 coats with metallic, but I find that it
> is
> > > color-
> > > > specific dependent on the amount of pigment in the paint.
> The
> > > gold
> > > > has to go on very thin or it will run - less solids, so it
> > takes
> > > 5
> > > > coats. The red takes 2, and the blue and silver take 3.
> Nason
> > > could
> > > > probably be considered "econo Imron" and it is not easy to
> > tell
> > > how
> > > > they differ, since Imron has a couple of non-clearcoat
> > products
> > > > (3500 and 400) as well.
> > > > >
> > > > > On 7/16/2007 at 5:43 PM Leroy Eckert wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > >I have not used that product. I would expect that you
> could
> > > thin
> > > > the
> > > > > >final coat (I use three coats with Impron)with a little
> > more
> > > > reducer to
> > > > > >create a wet coat to get the paint to lay out if you are
> > not
> > > > satisfied.
> > > > > >Just do not get in a hurry.That is what I did with Imron
> on
> > > my
> > > > airplane.
> > > > > >To aid in prep work, the most important part of a paint
> > job,
> > > I
> > > > use a hand
> > > > > >held sand blaster I purchased from the paint store.
> > Blasting
> > > sand
> > > > from Ace
> > > > > >Hardware can speed up the prep process over rivets and
> > tight
> > > > spots. You
> > > > > >gotta shower when finished. The rain drop spots may be
> able
> > > to be
> > > > removed
> > > > > >by wet sanding and buffing with compound.
> > > > > >Looks really good. Great job.
> > > > > >Leroy Eckert
> > > > > >1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
> > > > > >Niceville, FL
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>



--
Rob, Sue & Merlin Robinson
94 WLWB


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]