Electrical Gremlins

[Gregory OConnor]

With the toad, If every thing fails at the same time, sounds like a
ground because ground is common to all the functions. when the
problem resurfaces, I would use a battery jumper cable and hook one
end on the toad -battery terminal and the other on the bus -battery.

battery voltage is one thing but voltage at the bus plug and at the
toad end of the umbilical cable may prove the weak link. you can
also test resistance within the cord to see if it is passing all
avalable current.

the volvo tail lights are amber turn and if your toad is not, there
must be a 'diode federal/european 4 to 3 wire converter' someplace.
maybe that has isues. even if you are not using the converter it may
be wired in and messing up the works.


I had problems with tail lights(Using blinker and brakelight would
turn all lights dim). turned out to be within the volvo light
units.


Jake and cruise?? would the jake not cancel out the cruise? maybe
that default is where the problem is
GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandCa

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson
wrote:
> 3. I also had troubles with the umbilical cable between the coach
and
> the toad. While the various lights are important, the greatest
> concern is that the transmission lube pump for the toad receives
its
> power from the coach through the cable. I cleaned the contacts
with
> "tuner cleaner" and used some dielectric grease that improved
(but
> did not solve) the problem. It seemed to be particularly bad on
cold
> mornings with the lube-pump alarm cutting in and out frequently
for
> the first 5 to 10 miles. (Much cable jiggling and
plugging/unplugging
> would seem to help.) The wires to/from the connectors seem to be
> tight and in good condition.
>
> I checked all the ground straps and ensured that they were all
tight
> (no loose connections were found). Battery voltage was indicated
at
> 12.85 to 12.9 -- normal for the AGM batteries in the coach.
>
> Any thoughts/comments would be appreciated. I plan to start
checking
> the voltages on the various connections -- and to look for loose
or
> corroded connectors. I also plan to disconnect the various ground
> straps, clean the contacts, and reassemble them.
>
> Pete Masterson
> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> El Sobrante CA
> aeonix1@...
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Gregory OConnor]

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson
wrote:
>

>
> 3. I also had troubles with the umbilical cable between the coach
and
> the toad. While the various lights are important, the greatest
> concern is that the transmission lube pump for the toad receives
its
> power from the coach through the cable. I cleaned the contacts
with
> "tuner cleaner" and used some dielectric grease that improved
(but
Pete, I was thinking about the cold weather issue and how it related
to your electrical problem. when the toad oil is cold and just
starting to be pulled, the amp draw of the pump is greatest. if the
juice to run the pump comes from the bus, that wire ,the common wire
and all connections needs to be able to push all those amps.

Once you run a dc motor with insuffient amps you start to screw it
up and it then requires more and more amps to run. Pushing too many
amps across terminals that are not designed for the load will burn
the teminals also.

GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandCa



> did not solve) the problem. It seemed to be particularly bad on
cold
> mornings with the lube-pump alarm cutting in and out frequently
for
> the first 5 to 10 miles. (Much cable jiggling and
plugging/unplugging
> would seem to help.) The wires to/from the connectors seem to be
> tight and in good condition.
> Pete Masterson
> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> El Sobrante CA
> aeonix1@...
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Pete Masterson]

No... it was _headlights_ and cruise. On my '95, the jake (an exhaust-
type) is fully integrated with the automatic transmission and cruise
control. When cruise is set, the jake will cycle on-off on down
slopes to keep the speed in check. Only touching the brake turns off
the cruise.

Now, having written that, it makes me wonder if I'm getting some
'crosstalk' between the tail and _brake_ lights that might be killing
the cruise control...

I do have diodes in the toad brake lights. I would have been happier
with retaining the "European" tail/turn separation, but the umbilical
cords didn't have enough wires to allow that _and_ to provide power
to the transmission lube pump (required for my toad). The only
obvious symptom is the alarm for the lube pump that activates when
power isn't getting through. If it were only the lights, I'd never
know once we're on the road.

I have two umbilical cords that I've checked and tested. The first
time I encountered the problem, I actually had a loose wire in the
umbilical cord plug -- but that's been fixed. Both cables test
"clean" without undue resistance.

Thanks.

Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
El Sobrante CA
aeonix1@...



On Dec 27, 2007, at 9:55 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

> <snip>
>
> Jake and cruise?? would the jake not cancel out the cruise? maybe
> that default is where the problem is
> GregoryO'Connor
> 94ptRomolandCa
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]