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Replacing Black and Gray Drain Valves
05-13-2005, 15:21
Post: #1
Replacing Black and Gray Drain Valves
I'm planning on replacing both of the above valves. Any advice on any
special tools and/or precautions I should take? Thanks.
Henry@... 1979 FC 35, McAllen, Tx
Quote this message in a reply
05-13-2005, 15:35
Post: #2
Replacing Black and Gray Drain Valves
Henry do you have a side bath with the dump tubes running down the side and
ending just in front of the drivers side middle bay?

tom
1982 FC35
Vernon Center,Ny

At 10:21 PM 5/13/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>I'm planning on replacing both of the above valves. Any advice on any
>special tools and/or precautions I should take? Thanks.
>Henry@... 1979 FC 35, McAllen, Tx
>
Quote this message in a reply
05-14-2005, 12:48
Post: #3
Replacing Black and Gray Drain Valves
Tom. Sounds like you have the idea but, to clarify, here's what I have. Mine
is a left side bath and the bath is about in the center, probably a foot or two
in front of center, of the coach. The exterior plubing exits the bus in front
of the bath room so that the "beginning" of the lines would be between the
restroom and driver's seat. The lines then proceed toward the rear of the bus
ending somewhere between the bathroom and kitchen which is also on the left
side. Thanks, Henry@... 1979 FC/SB 35, McAllen, Tx.


Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 23:35:22 -0400
From: Tom Warner
Subject: Re: Replacing Black and Gray Drain Valves

Henry do you have a side bath with the dump tubes running down the side and
ending just in front of the drivers side middle bay?

tom
1982 FC35
Vernon Center,Ny
Quote this message in a reply
05-14-2005, 13:25
Post: #4
Replacing Black and Gray Drain Valves
Sounds exactly like mine. You decide which valve you want to install
(either electric Drain Master (the ones I installed), or Dupree air valves)
and then buy ten foot of 3" ABS black pipe, three 90 degree elbows, a
sanitary T, 3" adapter male thread on one end female slip joint on the
other, drain end to accept the cap, All purpose pipe cement. A can of
special pipe dope compatible with PVC pipe.

The tank towards the front of the coach is the grey water tank. Cut the
pipe off flush with the first elbow so that as much as possible of the PVC
(white) pipe is still coming out of the tank. You will glue a 90 degree
elbow to this later.

The tank towards the rear is the black water tank. You probably have a
Dupree manual valve on it. Cut the valve off as near the tank as you can
comfortably get. If your tank is like mine there is a PVC junction block
welded to the tank with female 3# threads.After you cut off the valve you
can unscrew it from the tank. You will thread in the new ABS or PVC 3" male
thread into it. Sometimes its hard to find a ABS one but the PVC one will
work fine.

I believe the electric drain valves work best on the forward control
coaches since they can be installed horizontally and you can still get
easily to the manual override functikon. I dry fitted the pieces together
first making sure I allowed enough pipe to extend the full depth of the
joints. Then I put a short length of masking tape across each joint to mark
exactly where they should be aligned when gluing them up.

The directions for installing the switches come with the valve although I
made my own for about $5 instead of $50.

Tom
1982 FC35
Vernon Center,NY



At 07:48 PM 5/14/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>Tom. Sounds like you have the idea but, to clarify, here's what I
>have. Mine is a left side bath and the bath is about in the center,
>probably a foot or two in front of center, of the coach. The exterior
>plubing exits the bus in front of the bath room so that the "beginning" of
>the lines would be between the restroom and driver's seat. The lines then
>proceed toward the rear of the bus ending somewhere between the bathroom
>and kitchen which is also on the left side. Thanks,
>Henry@... 1979 FC/SB 35, McAllen, Tx.
>
>
> Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 23:35:22 -0400
> From: Tom Warner
>Subject: Re: Replacing Black and Gray Drain Valves
>
>Henry do you have a side bath with the dump tubes running down the side and
>ending just in front of the drivers side middle bay?
>
>tom
>1982 FC35
>Vernon Center,Ny
>
>
>
>
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Quote this message in a reply
05-15-2005, 08:14
Post: #5
Replacing Black and Gray Drain Valves
Henry,

This is an unpleasant, but necessary task I took on last summer.

On your year coach, the black tank is in front, and the grey is in
the rear. This configuration changed in '82-'86 with the slightly
larger side bath, and the shower being in the forward portion.

To save some dollars, buy a 3" ABS pipe coupling and cut the large
drain pipe on your coach, this way you can reuse it. I'd suggest
cutting it towards an elbow to facilitate reassembly, a hacksaw works
well.

Cut the "Randy Valves" (that's what I like to call them) on the tank
side of each valve. The main thing here is to try not to cut the
tank hardware and you will be able to reuse that as well. Once the
cutting is complete, take a small flat screwdriver and tap it into
the seam between the black ABS of the Randy valve, and white PVC of
the tank all along the seam. If you have a dremel type tool, use it
first to cut a notch in the inside collar remnant of the valve, then
use the screwdriver to pry the remains out being careful not to mar
up the coupling too much. It came out fairly easily for me, I
notched it though.

With the pipe off, cut the remains of the valves as closely to the
valve as possible. You'll need to make another cut in the main drain
pipe to accomodate for this shortening of the pipe at these two
points.

Once you have each valve out of the tank, scuff sand inside the tank
collar a bit (might have to use the small screwdriver again to knock
of some small chunks of glue), use the purple all purpose primer,
then glob on a bunch of all purpose cement (you're using both PVC and
ABS materials). The valve seems to fit a little sloppy so use plenty
of cement. You'll want to be ready to hold the valves in place for a
while until they dry, so be ready with a clamp system or blocks or
something, and keep an eye on it or you may have valve handles
pointing straight down!

Once dry, you can reinstall the drain pipe. Dry fit it first and
make the appropriate cut for the loss of material near the valves on
the other side of the elbows. Again, it'll need to be supported
until dry. Might have a helper with a rubber hammer at one end since
this is a much tighter fit than the valves into the tank, the glue
seems to grab on quick also.

I found the ABS parts I needed at a local camping supply store. I
don't recall the hardware stores having much ABS.

The Valves came from Randy Dupree on his website, and work very
nicely.

Reusing the parts is key here. The ABS will last a long time, no
need to just pitch it. Plus, if I can save a buck or two every time
I do a 'bird project, I could fill my tank by the end of a season!

Gary Miller
83 FC 33
Wauwatosa, WI

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Henry Claeys
wrote:
> Tom. Sounds like you have the idea but, to clarify, here's what I
have. Mine is a left side bath and the bath is about in the center,
probably a foot or two in front of center, of the coach. The
exterior plubing exits the bus in front of the bath room so that
the "beginning" of the lines would be between the restroom and
driver's seat. The lines then proceed toward the rear of the bus
ending somewhere between the bathroom and kitchen which is also on
the left side. Thanks, Henry@H... 1979 FC/SB 35, McAllen, Tx.
>
>
> Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 23:35:22 -0400
> From: Tom Warner
> Subject: Re: Replacing Black and Gray Drain Valves
>
> Henry do you have a side bath with the dump tubes running down the
side and
> ending just in front of the drivers side middle bay?
>
> tom
> 1982 FC35
> Vernon Center,Ny
Quote this message in a reply
05-15-2005, 08:27
Post: #6
Replacing Black and Gray Drain Valves
guys,i'm not sure he needs to cut anything out just yet,it sounds like a good
flushing and some new gutz and he will be as good as new! randydupree93wb
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Miller
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2005 4:14 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Replacing Black and Gray Drain Valves


Henry,

This is an unpleasant, but necessary task I took on last summer.

On your year coach, the black tank is in front, and the grey is in
the rear. This configuration changed in '82-'86 with the slightly
larger side bath, and the shower being in the forward portion.

To save some dollars, buy a 3" ABS pipe coupling and cut the large
drain pipe on your coach, this way you can reuse it. I'd suggest
cutting it towards an elbow to facilitate reassembly, a hacksaw works
well.

Cut the "Randy Valves" (that's what I like to call them) on the tank
side of each valve. The main thing here is to try not to cut the
tank hardware and you will be able to reuse that as well. Once the
cutting is complete, take a small flat screwdriver and tap it into
the seam between the black ABS of the Randy valve, and white PVC of
the tank all along the seam. If you have a dremel type tool, use it
first to cut a notch in the inside collar remnant of the valve, then
use the screwdriver to pry the remains out being careful not to mar
up the coupling too much. It came out fairly easily for me, I
notched it though.

With the pipe off, cut the remains of the valves as closely to the
valve as possible. You'll need to make another cut in the main drain
pipe to accomodate for this shortening of the pipe at these two
points.

Once you have each valve out of the tank, scuff sand inside the tank
collar a bit (might have to use the small screwdriver again to knock
of some small chunks of glue), use the purple all purpose primer,
then glob on a bunch of all purpose cement (you're using both PVC and
ABS materials). The valve seems to fit a little sloppy so use plenty
of cement. You'll want to be ready to hold the valves in place for a
while until they dry, so be ready with a clamp system or blocks or
something, and keep an eye on it or you may have valve handles
pointing straight down!

Once dry, you can reinstall the drain pipe. Dry fit it first and
make the appropriate cut for the loss of material near the valves on
the other side of the elbows. Again, it'll need to be supported
until dry. Might have a helper with a rubber hammer at one end since
this is a much tighter fit than the valves into the tank, the glue
seems to grab on quick also.

I found the ABS parts I needed at a local camping supply store. I
don't recall the hardware stores having much ABS.

The Valves came from Randy Dupree on his website, and work very
nicely.

Reusing the parts is key here. The ABS will last a long time, no
need to just pitch it. Plus, if I can save a buck or two every time
I do a 'bird project, I could fill my tank by the end of a season!

Gary Miller
83 FC 33
Wauwatosa, WI

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Henry Claeys
wrote:
> Tom. Sounds like you have the idea but, to clarify, here's what I
have. Mine is a left side bath and the bath is about in the center,
probably a foot or two in front of center, of the coach. The
exterior plubing exits the bus in front of the bath room so that
the "beginning" of the lines would be between the restroom and
driver's seat. The lines then proceed toward the rear of the bus
ending somewhere between the bathroom and kitchen which is also on
the left side. Thanks, Henry@H... 1979 FC/SB 35, McAllen, Tx.
>
>
> Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 23:35:22 -0400
> From: Tom Warner
> Subject: Re: Replacing Black and Gray Drain Valves
>
> Henry do you have a side bath with the dump tubes running down the
side and
> ending just in front of the drivers side middle bay?
>
> tom
> 1982 FC35
> Vernon Center,Ny




------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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WanderlodgeForum-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Quote this message in a reply
05-15-2005, 08:57
Post: #7
Replacing Black and Gray Drain Valves
Sorry!

I'm catching up on posts. Must have missed something...

Gary Miller
83 FC 33
Wauwatosa, WI

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, randydupree
wrote:
> guys,i'm not sure he needs to cut anything out just yet,it sounds
like a good flushing and some new gutz and he will be as good as new!
randydupree93wb
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Gary Miller
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2005 4:14 PM
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Replacing Black and Gray Drain
Valves
>
>
> Henry,
>
> This is an unpleasant, but necessary task I took on last summer.
>
> On your year coach, the black tank is in front, and the grey is
in
> the rear. This configuration changed in '82-'86 with the
slightly
> larger side bath, and the shower being in the forward portion.
>
> To save some dollars, buy a 3" ABS pipe coupling and cut the
large
> drain pipe on your coach, this way you can reuse it. I'd suggest
> cutting it towards an elbow to facilitate reassembly, a hacksaw
works
> well.
>
> Cut the "Randy Valves" (that's what I like to call them) on the
tank
> side of each valve. The main thing here is to try not to cut the
> tank hardware and you will be able to reuse that as well. Once
the
> cutting is complete, take a small flat screwdriver and tap it
into
> the seam between the black ABS of the Randy valve, and white PVC
of
> the tank all along the seam. If you have a dremel type tool, use
it
> first to cut a notch in the inside collar remnant of the valve,
then
> use the screwdriver to pry the remains out being careful not to
mar
> up the coupling too much. It came out fairly easily for me, I
> notched it though.
>
> With the pipe off, cut the remains of the valves as closely to
the
> valve as possible. You'll need to make another cut in the main
drain
> pipe to accomodate for this shortening of the pipe at these two
> points.
>
> Once you have each valve out of the tank, scuff sand inside the
tank
> collar a bit (might have to use the small screwdriver again to
knock
> of some small chunks of glue), use the purple all purpose primer,
> then glob on a bunch of all purpose cement (you're using both PVC
and
> ABS materials). The valve seems to fit a little sloppy so use
plenty
> of cement. You'll want to be ready to hold the valves in place
for a
> while until they dry, so be ready with a clamp system or blocks
or
> something, and keep an eye on it or you may have valve handles
> pointing straight down!
>
> Once dry, you can reinstall the drain pipe. Dry fit it first and
> make the appropriate cut for the loss of material near the valves
on
> the other side of the elbows. Again, it'll need to be supported
> until dry. Might have a helper with a rubber hammer at one end
since
> this is a much tighter fit than the valves into the tank, the
glue
> seems to grab on quick also.
>
> I found the ABS parts I needed at a local camping supply store.
I
> don't recall the hardware stores having much ABS.
>
> The Valves came from Randy Dupree on his website, and work very
> nicely.
>
> Reusing the parts is key here. The ABS will last a long time, no
> need to just pitch it. Plus, if I can save a buck or two every
time
> I do a 'bird project, I could fill my tank by the end of a season!
>
> Gary Miller
> 83 FC 33
> Wauwatosa, WI
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Henry Claeys
> wrote:
> > Tom. Sounds like you have the idea but, to clarify, here's
what I
> have. Mine is a left side bath and the bath is about in the
center,
> probably a foot or two in front of center, of the coach. The
> exterior plubing exits the bus in front of the bath room so that
> the "beginning" of the lines would be between the restroom and
> driver's seat. The lines then proceed toward the rear of the bus
> ending somewhere between the bathroom and kitchen which is also
on
> the left side. Thanks, Henry@H... 1979 FC/SB 35, McAllen,
Tx.
> >
> >
> > Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 23:35:22 -0400
> > From: Tom Warner
> > Subject: Re: Replacing Black and Gray Drain Valves
> >
> > Henry do you have a side bath with the dump tubes running down
the
> side and
> > ending just in front of the drivers side middle bay?
> >
> > tom
> > 1982 FC35
> > Vernon Center,Ny
>
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WanderlodgeForum/
>
> b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> WanderlodgeForum-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Quote this message in a reply
05-15-2005, 09:18
Post: #8
Replacing Black and Gray Drain Valves
no problem,your post is good,he may need it! randy
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Miller
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2005 4:57 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Replacing Black and Gray Drain Valves


Sorry!

I'm catching up on posts. Must have missed something...

Gary Miller
83 FC 33
Wauwatosa, WI

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, randydupree
wrote:
> guys,i'm not sure he needs to cut anything out just yet,it sounds
like a good flushing and some new gutz and he will be as good as new!
randydupree93wb
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Gary Miller
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2005 4:14 PM
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Replacing Black and Gray Drain
Valves
>
>
> Henry,
>
> This is an unpleasant, but necessary task I took on last summer.
>
> On your year coach, the black tank is in front, and the grey is
in
> the rear. This configuration changed in '82-'86 with the
slightly
> larger side bath, and the shower being in the forward portion.
>
> To save some dollars, buy a 3" ABS pipe coupling and cut the
large
> drain pipe on your coach, this way you can reuse it. I'd suggest
> cutting it towards an elbow to facilitate reassembly, a hacksaw
works
> well.
>
> Cut the "Randy Valves" (that's what I like to call them) on the
tank
> side of each valve. The main thing here is to try not to cut the
> tank hardware and you will be able to reuse that as well. Once
the
> cutting is complete, take a small flat screwdriver and tap it
into
> the seam between the black ABS of the Randy valve, and white PVC
of
> the tank all along the seam. If you have a dremel type tool, use
it
> first to cut a notch in the inside collar remnant of the valve,
then
> use the screwdriver to pry the remains out being careful not to
mar
> up the coupling too much. It came out fairly easily for me, I
> notched it though.
>
> With the pipe off, cut the remains of the valves as closely to
the
> valve as possible. You'll need to make another cut in the main
drain
> pipe to accomodate for this shortening of the pipe at these two
> points.
>
> Once you have each valve out of the tank, scuff sand inside the
tank
> collar a bit (might have to use the small screwdriver again to
knock
> of some small chunks of glue), use the purple all purpose primer,
> then glob on a bunch of all purpose cement (you're using both PVC
and
> ABS materials). The valve seems to fit a little sloppy so use
plenty
> of cement. You'll want to be ready to hold the valves in place
for a
> while until they dry, so be ready with a clamp system or blocks
or
> something, and keep an eye on it or you may have valve handles
> pointing straight down!
>
> Once dry, you can reinstall the drain pipe. Dry fit it first and
> make the appropriate cut for the loss of material near the valves
on
> the other side of the elbows. Again, it'll need to be supported
> until dry. Might have a helper with a rubber hammer at one end
since
> this is a much tighter fit than the valves into the tank, the
glue
> seems to grab on quick also.
>
> I found the ABS parts I needed at a local camping supply store.
I
> don't recall the hardware stores having much ABS.
>
> The Valves came from Randy Dupree on his website, and work very
> nicely.
>
> Reusing the parts is key here. The ABS will last a long time, no
> need to just pitch it. Plus, if I can save a buck or two every
time
> I do a 'bird project, I could fill my tank by the end of a season!
>
> Gary Miller
> 83 FC 33
> Wauwatosa, WI
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Henry Claeys
> wrote:
> > Tom. Sounds like you have the idea but, to clarify, here's
what I
> have. Mine is a left side bath and the bath is about in the
center,
> probably a foot or two in front of center, of the coach. The
> exterior plubing exits the bus in front of the bath room so that
> the "beginning" of the lines would be between the restroom and
> driver's seat. The lines then proceed toward the rear of the bus
> ending somewhere between the bathroom and kitchen which is also
on
> the left side. Thanks, Henry@H... 1979 FC/SB 35, McAllen,
Tx.
> >
> >
> > Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 23:35:22 -0400
> > From: Tom Warner
> > Subject: Re: Replacing Black and Gray Drain Valves
> >
> > Henry do you have a side bath with the dump tubes running down
the
> side and
> > ending just in front of the drivers side middle bay?
> >
> > tom
> > 1982 FC35
> > Vernon Center,Ny
>
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WanderlodgeForum/
>
> b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> WanderlodgeForum-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WanderlodgeForum/

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
WanderlodgeForum-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.



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