Door repairs

[bumpersbird]

Ditto!!

This is an word for word description of the door on my coach.

I had a wind noise from around the door. I had to adjust the latch
bar in somewhat. I ground a small flat spot in the large washer to
get it adjusted in towards the jam.

I takes a little authority to get the it to latch but there is no
door movement when closed and according to the wife no more wind
noise.

Kurt Horvath
95 PT-42
10AC
>
> I'll note that the door on my coach must be shut with authority
(like
> you mean it) or the automotive-type lock won't latch properly.
This
> was the situation with the original weather stripping and with the
> weather stripping I installed. Once the automotive latch is
properly
> activated, then the dead bolt lines up properly.
>
> If you try to open the door with the dead bolt locked, then when
the
> automotive latch releases, the pressure on the dead bolt is
> sufficient that the solenoid won't move it. Depending on which
side
> of the door you're on, you either have to pull or push on the door
to
> relieve the pressure on the dead bolt, then the solenoid will
through
> the bolt.
>
> Pete Masterson
> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> El Sobrante CA
> aeonix1@...
>
>
>
> On Jun 11, 2008, at 8:22 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote:
>
> > Ryan, when I use the keyless on my '94 I have to push on the door
to
> > line up the deadbolt. This is all done blind folded as I cant see
or
> > feel what is going on in the jamb. I think someone replaced the
> > seal with a too ambitious foam/rubber product. fat seals endup
> > causing the door operator to slam and place a hard turn on the
> > lock. One other issue is that the door on my 94 is alumnium and
> > swells more than the steel frame in the sun. just some things to
> > consider with your project
> >
>

[brad barton]

Pete,

That is exactly what happens on mine. Very frustrating. Also no real way that anyone knows of to adjust it.

BradBarton00LXiDFW bbartonwx@...

---

To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
From: aeonix1@...
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 09:56:22 -0700
Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Door repairs

I'll note that the door on my coach must be shut with authority (like you mean it) or the automotive-type lock won't latch properly. This was the situation with the original weather stripping and with the weather stripping I installed. Once the automotive latch is properly activated, then the dead bolt lines up properly.

If you try to open the door with the dead bolt locked, then when the automotive latch releases, the pressure on the dead bolt is sufficient that the solenoid won't move it. Depending on which side of the door you're on, you either have to pull or push on the door to relieve the pressure on the dead bolt, then the solenoid will through the bolt.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 11, 2008, at 8:22 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

Ryan, when I use the keyless on my '94 I have to push on the door to

line up the deadbolt. This is all done blind folded as I cant see or

feel what is going on in the jamb. I think someone replaced the

seal with a too ambitious foam/rubber product. fat seals endup

causing the door operator to slam and place a hard turn on the

lock. One other issue is that the door on my 94 is alumnium and

swells more than the steel frame in the sun. just some things to

consider with your project

---

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[George Burke]

Leroy, Welcome to the club. When it all comes down to it, we are all pretty much Whacko. Also don't worry about hearing voices from time to time. A friend once told me that the time to WORRY is when you no longer hear them! LOL!!! George Burke 1977 FC31 Charlotte

On Tue, Jun 10, 2008 at 9:20 PM, Leroy Eckert <"jwasnewski@yahoo.com"> wrote:

As usual I am on the outside looking in on the lock deal but that is ok. I do not use mine even though it works because I am very catastrophic failure or natural disaster superstitious. I have a home fire escape plan which has a basement in a two story home with two exit doors other than the garage. In addition I have 6 smoke detectors.

In a building in case of fire do not use the elevator use the stairs.
In the bus, in case of fire the auto remote lock will not work. There is only one way out except for the windows and the sooner you are out the better. I keep a mini sledge in the bedroom just in case, to hell with depending on the windows to slide even though they do. You just cannot be to careful.


Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40 Royale
Dahlonega, GA
Smoke N Mirrors
Whacko and hear voices from time to time.

Ryan Wright <"ryanpwright@gmail.com"> wrote:

Two questions,

1. Where can I get a new door seal? Mine is old and falling apart.

2. Any tips on getting the remote lock to work reliably? Mine works
sporadically. Sometimes it's fine, other times it just refuses. Can't

be the switch because both the dash switches and the bedroom switch
work (or don't) at the same time. I want to install a keyless entry,
but need to make the door lock work reliably first.

Thank you,


-Ryan
'86 PT-40 8V92

[Pete Masterson]

I've examined the door geometry very closely. It doesn't seem like there's any real solution -- it appears to be a "feature" (as in "that's not a bug, it's an undocumented feature")... When my weather stripping was failing, the door was easier to close, but then there were some air leaks and wind noise. Once I renewed the weather strip (with a profile that was quite similar to the original) then the door was a bit harder to close, but the air leaks and wind noise was gone. 

I've adjusted to it and have become accustomed to using a firm hand when closing the door. It's not really an excessive amount of force, but it is rather more than is required for most vehicles. I chalk it up to being a Blue Bird quirk.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 12, 2008, at 6:48 PM, brad barton wrote:

Pete, 
That is exactly what happens on mine.  Very frustrating.  Also no real way that anyone knows of to adjust it.

Brad Barton 00LXiDFW "bbartonwx@hotmail.com"

---

To: "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com"
From: "aeonix1@mac.com"
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 09:56:22 -0700
Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Door repairs

I'll note that the door on my coach must be shut with authority (like you mean it) or the automotive-type lock won't latch properly. This was the situation with the original weather stripping and with the weather stripping I installed. Once the automotive latch is properly activated, then the dead bolt lines up properly. 

If you try to open the door with the dead bolt locked, then when the automotive latch releases, the pressure on the dead bolt is sufficient that the solenoid won't move it. Depending on which side of the door you're on, you either have to pull or push on the door to relieve the pressure on the dead bolt, then the solenoid will through the bolt.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 11, 2008, at 8:22 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

Ryan, when I use the keyless on my '94 I have to push on the door to 

line up the deadbolt. This is all done blind folded as I cant see or 

feel what is going on in the jamb.  I think someone replaced the 

seal with a too ambitious foam/rubber  product. fat seals endup 

causing the door operator to slam and place a hard turn on the 

lock.  One other issue is that the door on my 94 is alumnium and 

swells more than the steel frame in the sun. just some things to 

consider with your project

---

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[Gregory OConnor]

The most annoying noise resulting from wind at the entry door comes
from atop the passanger seat. 1- opening up the airvent pressurizes
the cab enough to keep air from entering.(close rear windows also) 2-
Saying "What,,, What,,,, What,,," is effective in reduction of seat
noise. I don't get the 'skin the cat anology' but these are two of
those other ways.

Less weather strip is needed at the hinge side. too much will lift
the hinge and soon distort. hollow strips seem to seal better with
less pressure but when you distort the mechanics, you end up needing
newspaper sticking out the jam.
GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandCa

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, David Brady
wrote:
>
> Yes, that piano hinge doesn't help. It was okay on a school bus
> (with 2 doors meeting in the center), but it's not quite good
enough
> on a single door motorhome. What we need is a true automotive
> style door hinge, which pulls the door out away from the vehicle
> rather than a piano hinge which severely pinches the weather
stripping
> adjacent to the hinge. Alas, we're probably stuck with it.
>
> David
> '02 LXi, NC
>
> Pete Masterson wrote:
> >
> > I've examined the door geometry very closely. It doesn't seem
like
> > there's any real solution -- it appears to be a "feature" (as in
> > "that's not a bug, it's an undocumented feature")... When my
weather
> > stripping was failing, the door was easier to close, but then
there
> > were some air leaks and wind noise. Once I renewed the weather
strip
> > (with a profile that was quite similar to the original) then the
door
> > was a bit harder to close, but the air leaks and wind noise was
gone.
> >
> >
> > I've adjusted to it and have become accustomed to using a firm
hand
> > when closing the door. It's not really an excessive amount of
force,
> > but it is rather more than is required for most vehicles. I
chalk it
> > up to being a Blue Bird quirk.
> >
> > Pete Masterson
> > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> > El Sobrante CA
> > aeonix1@...
> >
> >
> >
> > On Jun 12, 2008, at 6:48 PM, brad barton wrote:
> >
> >> Pete,
> >> That is exactly what happens on mine. Very frustrating. Also
no
> >> real way that anyone knows of to adjust it.
> >>
> >> Brad Barton 00LXiDFW bbartonwx@...
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------------------------------------
------------
> >> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> >>
> >> From: aeonix1@...
> >> Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 09:56:22 -0700
> >> Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Door repairs
> >>
> >> I'll note that the door on my coach must be shut with
authority
> >> (like you mean it) or the automotive-type lock won't latch
> >> properly. This was the situation with the original weather
> >> stripping and with the weather stripping I installed. Once
the
> >> automotive latch is properly activated, then the dead bolt
lines
> >> up properly.
> >>
> >> If you try to open the door with the dead bolt locked, then
when
> >> the automotive latch releases, the pressure on the dead
bolt is
> >> sufficient that the solenoid won't move it. Depending on
which
> >> side of the door you're on, you either have to pull or push
on
> >> the door to relieve the pressure on the dead bolt, then the
> >> solenoid will through the bolt.
> >>
> >> Pete Masterson
> >> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> >> El Sobrante CA
> >> aeonix1@...
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> On Jun 11, 2008, at 8:22 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote:
> >>
> >> Ryan, when I use the keyless on my '94 I have to push
on the
> >> door to
> >> line up the deadbolt. This is all done blind folded as
I cant
> >> see or
> >> feel what is going on in the jamb. I think someone
replaced the
> >> seal with a too ambitious foam/rubber product. fat
seals endup
> >> causing the door operator to slam and place a hard turn
on the
> >> lock. One other issue is that the door on my 94 is
alumnium and
> >> swells more than the steel frame in the sun. just some
things to
> >> consider with your project
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ----------------------------------------------------------------
--------
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networks to
> >> join you on Windows Live™ Messenger. Invite friends now!
> >> <https://www.invite2messenger.net/im/?
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> >
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
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> > Checked by AVG.
> > Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1500 - Release Date:
6/12/2008 4:58 PM
> >
>

[David Brady]

Yes, that piano hinge doesn't help. It was okay on a school bus

(with 2 doors meeting in the center), but it's not quite good enough

on a single door motorhome. What we need is a true automotive

style door hinge, which pulls the door out away from the vehicle

rather than a piano hinge which severely pinches the weather stripping

adjacent to the hinge. Alas, we're probably stuck with it.



David

'02 LXi, NC



Pete Masterson wrote:

I've examined the door geometry very closely. It doesn't seem like
there's any real solution -- it appears to be a "feature" (as in
"that's not a bug, it's an undocumented feature")... When my weather
stripping was failing, the door was easier to close, but then there
were some air leaks and wind noise. Once I renewed the weather strip
(with a profile that was quite similar to the original) then the door
was a bit harder to close, but the air leaks and wind noise was gone. 

I've adjusted to it and have become accustomed to using a firm
hand when closing the door. It's not really an excessive amount of
force, but it is rather more than is required for most vehicles. I
chalk it up to being a Blue Bird quirk.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 12, 2008, at 6:48 PM, brad barton wrote:

Pete, 

That is exactly what happens on mine.  Very frustrating.  Also no real
way that anyone knows of to adjust it.



Brad Barton 00LXiDFW "bbartonwx@hotmail.com"

---

To: "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com"

From: "aeonix1@mac.com"

Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 09:56:22 -0700

Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Door repairs

I'll note that the door on my coach must
be shut with authority (like you mean it) or the automotive-type lock
won't latch properly. This was the situation with the original weather
stripping and with the weather stripping I installed. Once the
automotive latch is properly activated, then the dead bolt lines up
properly. 

If you try to open the door with the dead bolt locked, then
when the automotive latch releases, the pressure on the dead bolt is
sufficient that the solenoid won't move it. Depending on which side of
the door you're on, you either have to pull or push on the door to
relieve the pressure on the dead bolt, then the solenoid will through
the bolt.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 11, 2008, at 8:22 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

Ryan, when I use the keyless on my '94 I have to push on
the door to 

line up the deadbolt. This is all done blind folded as I
cant see or 

feel what is going on in the jamb.  I
think someone replaced the 

seal with a too ambitious foam/rubber  product.
fat seals endup 

causing the door operator to slam and place a hard turn on
the 

lock.  One other issue is that
the door on my 94 is alumnium and 

swells more than the steel frame in the sun. just some
things to 

consider with your project

---

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networks to join you on Windows Live™ Messenger. Invite friends now!

No virus found in this incoming message.

Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1500 - Release Date: 6/12/2008 4:58 PM

[David Brady]

That's right, adjacent to the hinge the factory installed a layer of

double sided tape and then weather stripping on top of that. To

thin that combo I got rid of the tape and installed a thin self adhesive

rubber weather strip. It works, my door actually closes pretty

easily compared to how it worked before my magic.



David Brady

'02 LXi, NC (I never did like cats)



Gregory OConnor wrote:

The most annoying noise resulting from wind at the entry door
comes

from atop the passanger seat. 1- opening up the airvent pressurizes

the cab enough to keep air from entering.(close rear windows also) 2-

Saying "What,,, What,,,, What,,," is effective in reduction of seat

noise. I don't get the 'skin the cat anology' but these are two of

those other ways.



Less weather strip is needed at the hinge side. too much will lift

the hinge and soon distort. hollow strips seem to seal better with

less pressure but when you distort the mechanics, you end up needing

newspaper sticking out the jam.

GregoryO'Connor

94ptRomolandCa



--- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com",
David Brady "dmb993@..."

wrote:

>

> Yes, that piano hinge doesn't help. It was okay on a school bus

> (with 2 doors meeting in the center), but it's not quite good

enough

> on a single door motorhome. What we need is a true automotive

> style door hinge, which pulls the door out away from the vehicle

> rather than a piano hinge which severely pinches the weather

stripping

> adjacent to the hinge. Alas, we're probably stuck with it.

>

> David

> '02 LXi, NC

>

> Pete Masterson wrote:

> >

> > I've examined the door geometry very closely. It doesn't seem


like

> > there's any real solution -- it appears to be a "feature" (as
in

> > "that's not a bug, it's an undocumented feature")... When my

weather

> > stripping was failing, the door was easier to close, but then


there

> > were some air leaks and wind noise. Once I renewed the
weather

strip

> > (with a profile that was quite similar to the original) then
the

door

> > was a bit harder to close, but the air leaks and wind noise
was

gone.

> >

> >

> > I've adjusted to it and have become accustomed to using a
firm

hand

> > when closing the door. It's not really an excessive amount of


force,

> > but it is rather more than is required for most vehicles. I

chalk it

> > up to being a Blue Bird quirk.

> >

> > Pete Masterson

> > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

> > El Sobrante CA

> > aeonix1@... <"aeonix1@"...>

> >

> >

> >

> > On Jun 12, 2008, at 6:48 PM, brad barton wrote:

> >

> >> Pete,

> >> That is exactly what happens on mine. Very frustrating.
Also

no

> >> real way that anyone knows of to adjust it.

> >>

> >> Brad Barton 00LXiDFW bbartonwx@...
<"bbartonwx@"...>

> >>

> >>

> >> ----------------------------------------------------------

------------

> >> To: "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com"

> >>

> >> From: aeonix1@... <"aeonix1@"...>

> >> Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 09:56:22 -0700

> >> Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Door repairs

> >>

> >> I'll note that the door on my coach must be shut with

authority

> >> (like you mean it) or the automotive-type lock won't latch

> >> properly. This was the situation with the original weather

> >> stripping and with the weather stripping I installed.
Once

the

> >> automotive latch is properly activated, then the dead
bolt

lines

> >> up properly.

> >>

> >> If you try to open the door with the dead bolt locked,
then

when

> >> the automotive latch releases, the pressure on the dead

bolt is

> >> sufficient that the solenoid won't move it. Depending on

which

> >> side of the door you're on, you either have to pull or
push

on

> >> the door to relieve the pressure on the dead bolt, then
the

> >> solenoid will through the bolt.

> >>

> >> Pete Masterson

> >> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

> >> El Sobrante CA

> >> aeonix1@... <"aeonix1@"...>

> >>

> >>

> >>

> >> On Jun 11, 2008, at 8:22 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

> >>

> >> Ryan, when I use the keyless on my '94 I have to push

on the

> >> door to

> >> line up the deadbolt. This is all done blind folded as

I cant

> >> see or

> >> feel what is going on in the jamb. I think someone

replaced the

> >> seal with a too ambitious foam/rubber product. fat

seals endup

> >> causing the door operator to slam and place a hard turn

on the

> >> lock. One other issue is that the door on my 94 is

alumnium and

> >> swells more than the steel frame in the sun. just some

things to

> >> consider with your project

> >>

> >>

> >>

> >> ----------------------------------------------------------

--------

> >> Instantly invite friends from Facebook and other social

networks to

> >> join you on Windows Live™ Messenger. Invite friends now!

> >> <https://www.invite2messenger.net/im/?

source=TXT_EML_WLH_InviteFriends>

> >

> >

> > ----------------------------------------------------------

-------

> >

> > No virus found in this incoming message.

> > Checked by AVG.

> > Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1500 - Release
Date:

6/12/2008 4:58 PM

> >

>

No virus found in this incoming message.

Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1500 - Release Date: 6/12/2008 4:58 PM

[Pete Masterson]

I actually only replaced the outside edge, top and bottom but not the hinge-edge of the weather stripping. The hinge edge was more bother, so I put it off. I then noticed that the wind noise I was getting had gone away.

I also got rid of some wind noises in the door window by installing some weather stripping there, too. I used a kind of 'fur' stuff -- stiff fibers about 1/16" long that stick up from a 3/16" sticky tape.

I have a bit of similar wind noise from the driver's side window as well. Installing a bunch more of the fur-stuff is on my to do list. 

These kinds of things are endless -- I have several of the other windows that need troubleshooting for rattles and wind noise as well. Difficulty there is that it helps to be able to sit/stand near the window and experiment to find exactly where the noise/air leak is coming from. I can't do that while I'm driving. Wife won't drive the bus. So I need to wait for a day when there's gale force winds blowing so I can fiddle with the windows while parked... (We don't get many of those days around here.)

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 13, 2008, at 6:46 AM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

The most annoying noise resulting from wind at the entry door comes 

from atop the passanger seat. 1- opening up the airvent pressurizes 

the cab enough to keep air from entering.(close rear windows also) 2-

Saying "What,,, What,,,, What,,," is effective in reduction of seat 

noise.  I don't get the 'skin the cat anology' but these are two of 

those other ways.

Less weather strip is needed at the hinge side.  too much will lift 

the hinge and soon distort.  hollow strips seem to seal better with 

less pressure but when you distort the mechanics, you end up needing 

newspaper sticking out the jam. 

GregoryO'Connor

94ptRomolandCa

 --- In "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com", David Brady  

wrote:

Yes, that piano hinge doesn't help. It was okay on a school bus

(with 2 doors meeting in the center), but it's not quite good 

enough

on a single door motorhome. What we need is a true automotive

style door hinge, which pulls the door out away from the vehicle

rather than a piano hinge which severely pinches the weather 

stripping

adjacent to the hinge. Alas, we're probably stuck with it.

David

'02 LXi, NC

Pete Masterson wrote:

I've examined the door geometry very closely. It doesn't seem 

like 

there's any real solution -- it appears to be a "feature" (as in 

"that's not a bug, it's an undocumented feature")... When my 

weather 

stripping was failing, the door was easier to close, but then 

there 

were some air leaks and wind noise. Once I renewed the weather 

strip 

(with a profile that was quite similar to the original) then the 

door 

was a bit harder to close, but the air leaks and wind noise was 

gone. 

I've adjusted to it and have become accustomed to using a firm 

hand 

when closing the door. It's not really an excessive amount of 

force, 

but it is rather more than is required for most vehicles. I 

chalk it 

up to being a Blue Bird quirk.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>

On Jun 12, 2008, at 6:48 PM, brad barton wrote:

Pete, 

That is exactly what happens on mine.  Very frustrating.  Also 

no 

real way that anyone knows of to adjust it.

Brad Barton 00LXiDFW bbartonwx@... <"bbartonwx"@...>

    ------------------------------------------------------------

------------

    To: "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com"

    <"WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com">

    From: aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>

    Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 09:56:22 -0700

    Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Door repairs

    I'll note that the door on my coach must be shut with 

authority

    (like you mean it) or the automotive-type lock won't latch

    properly. This was the situation with the original weather

    stripping and with the weather stripping I installed. Once 

the

    automotive latch is properly activated, then the dead bolt 

lines

    up properly. 

    If you try to open the door with the dead bolt locked, then 

when

    the automotive latch releases, the pressure on the dead 

bolt is

    sufficient that the solenoid won't move it. Depending on 

which

    side of the door you're on, you either have to pull or push 

on

    the door to relieve the pressure on the dead bolt, then the

    solenoid will through the bolt.

    Pete Masterson

    '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

    El Sobrante CA

    aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>

    On Jun 11, 2008, at 8:22 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

        Ryan, when I use the keyless on my '94 I have to push 

on the

        door to 

        line up the deadbolt. This is all done blind folded as 

I cant

        see or 

        feel what is going on in the jamb.  I think someone 

replaced the 

        seal with a too ambitious foam/rubber  product. fat 

seals endup 

        causing the door operator to slam and place a hard turn 

on the 

        lock.  One other issue is that the door on my 94 is 

alumnium and 

        swells more than the steel frame in the sun. just some 

things to 

        consider with your project

----------------------------------------------------------------

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Instantly invite friends from Facebook and other social 

networks to 

join you on Windows Live™ Messenger. Invite friends now! 

<https://www.invite2messenger.net/im/?

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Checked by AVG. 

Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1500 - Release Date: 

6/12/2008 4:58 PM

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[Pete Masterson]

That sounds like exactly what I need. There's a lot of rattling going on with a couple of the windows. But I also get wind noise (high-pitched whistle). Due to the age of my windows, the sealing simply seems to be worn down. It hadn't occurred to me before, but I'll contact Peninsula Glass and see if they have any ideas on how to renew the weather stripping.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 13, 2008, at 9:42 AM, David Brady wrote:

What makes noise on my side windows are the screens - they rattle
over bumps. I found that Penisula Glass put a plastic channel at the
base of my screens that slides in another extruded channel in the
window frame. The plastic piece is a few inches shorter than the window
frame. It's purpose is to cinch the screen into the extruded window
frame to prevent rattling. It works. If you don't have such an item,
you can probably get it from Peninsula. It's a simple matter to pop
out the screen, seat the plastic channel, and re-insert the screen.

David Brady,
'02 LXi, NC

Pete Masterson wrote:

I actually only replaced the outside edge, top and bottom but not the hinge-edge of the weather stripping. The hinge edge was more bother, so I put it off. I then noticed that the wind noise I was getting had gone away.

I also got rid of some wind noises in the door window by installing some weather stripping there, too. I used a kind of 'fur' stuff -- stiff fibers about 1/16" long that stick up from a 3/16" sticky tape.

I have a bit of similar wind noise from the driver's side window as well. Installing a bunch more of the fur-stuff is on my to do list. 

These kinds of things are endless -- I have several of the other windows that need troubleshooting for rattles and wind noise as well. Difficulty there is that it helps to be able to sit/stand near the window and experiment to find exactly where the noise/air leak is coming from. I can't do that while I'm driving. Wife won't drive the bus. So I need to wait for a day when there's gale force winds blowing so I can fiddle with the windows while parked... (We don't get many of those days around here.)

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 13, 2008, at 6:46 AM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

The most annoying noise resulting from wind at the entry door comes 

from atop the passanger seat. 1- opening up the airvent pressurizes 

the cab enough to keep air from entering.(close rear windows also) 2-

Saying "What,,, What,,,, What,,," is effective in reduction of seat 

noise.  I don't get the 'skin the cat anology' but these are two of 

those other ways.

Less weather strip is needed at the hinge side.  too much will lift 

the hinge and soon distort.  hollow strips seem to seal better with 

less pressure but when you distort the mechanics, you end up needing 

newspaper sticking out the jam. 

GregoryO'Connor

94ptRomolandCa

 --- In "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com", David Brady "dmb993@..." 

wrote:

Yes, that piano hinge doesn't help. It was okay on a school bus

(with 2 doors meeting in the center), but it's not quite good 

enough

on a single door motorhome. What we need is a true automotive

style door hinge, which pulls the door out away from the vehicle

rather than a piano hinge which severely pinches the weather 

stripping

adjacent to the hinge. Alas, we're probably stuck with it.

David

'02 LXi, NC

Pete Masterson wrote:

I've examined the door geometry very closely. It doesn't seem 

like 

there's any real solution -- it appears to be a "feature" (as in 

"that's not a bug, it's an undocumented feature")... When my 

weather 

stripping was failing, the door was easier to close, but then 

there 

were some air leaks and wind noise. Once I renewed the weather 

strip 

(with a profile that was quite similar to the original) then the 

door 

was a bit harder to close, but the air leaks and wind noise was 

gone. 

I've adjusted to it and have become accustomed to using a firm 

hand 

when closing the door. It's not really an excessive amount of 

force, 

but it is rather more than is required for most vehicles. I 

chalk it 

up to being a Blue Bird quirk.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>

On Jun 12, 2008, at 6:48 PM, brad barton wrote:

Pete, 

That is exactly what happens on mine.  Very frustrating.  Also 

no 

real way that anyone knows of to adjust it.

Brad Barton 00LXiDFW bbartonwx@... <"bbartonwx"@...>

    ------------------------------------------------------------

------------

    To: "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com"

    <"WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com">

    From: aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>

    Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 09:56:22 -0700

    Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Door repairs

    I'll note that the door on my coach must be shut with 

authority

    (like you mean it) or the automotive-type lock won't latch

    properly. This was the situation with the original weather

    stripping and with the weather stripping I installed. Once 

the

    automotive latch is properly activated, then the dead bolt 

lines

    up properly. 

    If you try to open the door with the dead bolt locked, then 

when

    the automotive latch releases, the pressure on the dead 

bolt is

    sufficient that the solenoid won't move it. Depending on 

which

    side of the door you're on, you either have to pull or push 

on

    the door to relieve the pressure on the dead bolt, then the

    solenoid will through the bolt.

    Pete Masterson

    '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

    El Sobrante CA

    aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>

    On Jun 11, 2008, at 8:22 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

        Ryan, when I use the keyless on my '94 I have to push 

on the

        door to 

        line up the deadbolt. This is all done blind folded as 

I cant

        see or 

        feel what is going on in the jamb.  I think someone 

replaced the 

        seal with a too ambitious foam/rubber  product. fat 

seals endup 

        causing the door operator to slam and place a hard turn 

on the 

        lock.  One other issue is that the door on my 94 is 

alumnium and 

        swells more than the steel frame in the sun. just some 

things to 

        consider with your project

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[David Brady]

What makes noise on my side windows are the screens - they rattle

over bumps. I found that Penisula Glass put a plastic channel at the

base of my screens that slides in another extruded channel in the

window frame. The plastic piece is a few inches shorter than the window

frame. It's purpose is to cinch the screen into the extruded window

frame to prevent rattling. It works. If you don't have such an item,

you can probably get it from Peninsula. It's a simple matter to pop

out the screen, seat the plastic channel, and re-insert the screen.



David Brady,

'02 LXi, NC



Pete Masterson wrote:

I actually only replaced the outside edge, top and bottom but not
the hinge-edge of the weather stripping. The hinge edge was more
bother, so I put it off. I then noticed that the wind noise I was
getting had gone away.

I also got rid of some wind noises in the door window by
installing some weather stripping there, too. I used a kind of 'fur'
stuff -- stiff fibers about 1/16" long that stick up from a 3/16"
sticky tape.

I have a bit of similar wind noise from the driver's side window
as well. Installing a bunch more of the fur-stuff is on my to do list. 

These kinds of things are endless -- I have several of the other
windows that need troubleshooting for rattles and wind noise as well.
Difficulty there is that it helps to be able to sit/stand near the
window and experiment to find exactly where the noise/air leak is
coming from. I can't do that while I'm driving. Wife won't drive the
bus. So I need to wait for a day when there's gale force winds blowing
so I can fiddle with the windows while parked... (We don't get many of
those days around here.)

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 13, 2008, at 6:46 AM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

The most annoying noise resulting from wind at the entry door
comes 

from atop the passanger seat. 1- opening up the airvent
pressurizes 

the cab enough to keep air from entering.(close rear windows
also) 2-

Saying "What,,, What,,,, What,,," is effective in reduction of
seat 

noise.  I don't
get the 'skin the cat anology' but these are two of 

those other ways.

Less weather strip is needed at the hinge side.  too much will lift 

the hinge and soon distort. 
hollow strips seem to seal better with 

less pressure but when you distort the mechanics, you end up
needing 

newspaper sticking out the jam. 

GregoryO'Connor

94ptRomolandCa

 --- In "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com",
David Brady "dmb993@..." 

wrote:

Yes, that piano hinge doesn't help. It was okay on a school
bus

(with 2 doors meeting in the center), but it's not quite good 

enough

on a single door motorhome. What we need is a true automotive

style door hinge, which pulls the door out away from the
vehicle

rather than a piano hinge which severely pinches the weather 

stripping

adjacent to the hinge. Alas, we're probably stuck with it.

David

'02 LXi, NC

Pete Masterson wrote:

I've examined the door geometry very closely. It doesn't
seem 

like 

there's any real solution -- it appears to be a "feature"
(as in 

"that's not a bug, it's an undocumented feature")... When
my 

weather 

stripping was failing, the door was easier to close, but
then 

there 

were some air leaks and wind noise. Once I renewed the
weather 

strip 

(with a profile that was quite similar to the original)
then the 

door 

was a bit harder to close, but the air leaks and wind
noise was 

gone. 

I've adjusted to it and have become accustomed to using a
firm 

hand 

when closing the door. It's not really an excessive amount
of 

force, 

but it is rather more than is required for most vehicles. I 

chalk it 

up to being a Blue Bird quirk.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>

On Jun 12, 2008, at 6:48 PM, brad barton wrote:

Pete, 

That is exactly what happens on mine.  Very frustrating.  Also 

no 

real way that anyone knows of to adjust it.

Brad Barton 00LXiDFW bbartonwx@... <"bbartonwx"@...>

    ------------------------------------------------------------

------------

    To: "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com"

    <"WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com">

    From:
aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>

    Date:
Thu, 12 Jun 2008 09:56:22 -0700

    Subject:
Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Door repairs

    I'll
note that the door on my coach must be shut with 

authority

    (like
you mean it) or the automotive-type lock won't latch

    properly.
This was the situation with the original weather

    stripping
and with the weather stripping I installed. Once 

the

    automotive
latch is properly activated, then the dead bolt 

lines

    up
properly. 

    If you
try to open the door with the dead bolt locked, then 

when

    the
automotive latch releases, the pressure on the dead 

bolt is

    sufficient
that the solenoid won't move it. Depending on 

which

    side of
the door you're on, you either have to pull or push 

on

    the door
to relieve the pressure on the dead bolt, then the

    solenoid
will through the bolt.

    Pete
Masterson

    '95 Blue
Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

    El
Sobrante CA

    aeonix1@...
<"aeonix1"@...>

    On Jun
11, 2008, at 8:22 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

        Ryan,
when I use the keyless on my '94 I have to push 

on the

        door
to 

        line
up the deadbolt. This is all done blind folded as 

I cant

        see
or 

        feel
what is going on in the jamb.  I
think someone 

replaced the 

        seal
with a too ambitious foam/rubber  product.
fat 

seals endup 

        causing
the door operator to slam and place a hard turn 

on the 

        lock.  One other issue is that the
door on my 94 is 

alumnium and 

        swells
more than the steel frame in the sun. just some 

things to 

        consider
with your project

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Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1500 - Release
Date: 

6/12/2008 4:58 PM

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