Door repairs

[Pete Masterson]

Rattles ... yes, I have 'em... Lots of 'em ...

The previous owner obviously had gone to some trouble chasing after rattles as I've found bits of foam tape on edges of window blinds, and extra leg installed under the dining table (good job, I didn't realize it was an extra until I pulled the table out to install the new flooring), and other efforts noticed on close inspection. However, dishes and other things in cabinets -- and the cabinets themselves -- along with basement items and many other things all can vibrate and rattle.

I'm not particularly pleased to find the occasional screw or washer laying on the floor -- having fallen from who knows where! 

But, so long as I can turn up the volume on the radio sufficiently, the rattling isn't too bothersome. 

The one variable I've noticed is that prevailing winds can affect the rattles/wind noises. If the wind is generally from the right, one set of windows sings is song of joy ... wind from another direction will set up a different tune. While our car is generally one of the least noisy -- I've grown accustomed to the songs of the road sung by my 'bird and I often consider the comment of a more experienced RVer who reminded me, it's like having a Richter 8 earthquake in your home each time you drive the coach...

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 13, 2008, at 10:10 AM, David Brady wrote:

Let us know what you find out Pete. I assume that the plastic channel was
installed by Peninsula. It's possible that it was added later by BlueBird. Sure
does work. To cinch the screen I use a pen, or similarly skinny object, and
shift the plastic channel towards the rear of the bus. The channel then rides
up on the curvature of the window, at the corner, and forces the screen
upward "clamping" it into the window. My windows are silent. No high
pitch tones either. The trouble with this fix, as with any rattle fix, is that
we've just peeled the onion; i.e, those rattling screens cover up a lot of
other noises that you didn't know existed.

David Brady


Pete Masterson wrote:

That sounds like exactly what I need. There's a lot of rattling going on with a couple of the windows. But I also get wind noise (high-pitched whistle). Due to the age of my windows, the sealing simply seems to be worn down. It hadn't occurred to me before, but I'll contact Peninsula Glass and see if they have any ideas on how to renew the weather stripping.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 13, 2008, at 9:42 AM, David Brady wrote:

What makes noise on my side windows are the screens - they rattle
over bumps. I found that Penisula Glass put a plastic channel at the
base of my screens that slides in another extruded channel in the
window frame. The plastic piece is a few inches shorter than the window
frame. It's purpose is to cinch the screen into the extruded window
frame to prevent rattling. It works. If you don't have such an item,
you can probably get it from Peninsula. It's a simple matter to pop
out the screen, seat the plastic channel, and re-insert the screen.

David Brady,
'02 LXi, NC

Pete Masterson wrote:

I actually only replaced the outside edge, top and bottom but not the hinge-edge of the weather stripping. The hinge edge was more bother, so I put it off. I then noticed that the wind noise I was getting had gone away.

I also got rid of some wind noises in the door window by installing some weather stripping there, too. I used a kind of 'fur' stuff -- stiff fibers about 1/16" long that stick up from a 3/16" sticky tape.

I have a bit of similar wind noise from the driver's side window as well. Installing a bunch more of the fur-stuff is on my to do list. 

These kinds of things are endless -- I have several of the other windows that need troubleshooting for rattles and wind noise as well. Difficulty there is that it helps to be able to sit/stand near the window and experiment to find exactly where the noise/air leak is coming from. I can't do that while I'm driving. Wife won't drive the bus. So I need to wait for a day when there's gale force winds blowing so I can fiddle with the windows while parked... (We don't get many of those days around here.)

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 13, 2008, at 6:46 AM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

The most annoying noise resulting from wind at the entry door comes 

from atop the passanger seat. 1- opening up the airvent pressurizes 

the cab enough to keep air from entering.(close rear windows also) 2-

Saying "What,,, What,,,, What,,," is effective in reduction of seat 

noise.  I don't get the 'skin the cat anology' but these are two of 

those other ways.

Less weather strip is needed at the hinge side.  too much will lift 

the hinge and soon distort.  hollow strips seem to seal better with 

less pressure but when you distort the mechanics, you end up needing 

newspaper sticking out the jam. 

GregoryO'Connor

94ptRomolandCa

 --- In "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com", David Brady "dmb993@..." 

wrote:

Yes, that piano hinge doesn't help. It was okay on a school bus

(with 2 doors meeting in the center), but it's not quite good 

enough

on a single door motorhome. What we need is a true automotive

style door hinge, which pulls the door out away from the vehicle

rather than a piano hinge which severely pinches the weather 

stripping

adjacent to the hinge. Alas, we're probably stuck with it.

David

'02 LXi, NC

Pete Masterson wrote:

I've examined the door geometry very closely. It doesn't seem 

like 

there's any real solution -- it appears to be a "feature" (as in 

"that's not a bug, it's an undocumented feature")... When my 

weather 

stripping was failing, the door was easier to close, but then 

there 

were some air leaks and wind noise. Once I renewed the weather 

strip 

(with a profile that was quite similar to the original) then the 

door 

was a bit harder to close, but the air leaks and wind noise was 

gone. 

I've adjusted to it and have become accustomed to using a firm 

hand 

when closing the door. It's not really an excessive amount of 

force, 

but it is rather more than is required for most vehicles. I 

chalk it 

up to being a Blue Bird quirk.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>

On Jun 12, 2008, at 6:48 PM, brad barton wrote:

Pete, 

That is exactly what happens on mine.  Very frustrating.  Also 

no 

real way that anyone knows of to adjust it.

Brad Barton 00LXiDFW bbartonwx@... <"bbartonwx"@...>

    ------------------------------------------------------------

------------

    To: "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com"

    <"WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com">

    From: aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>

    Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 09:56:22 -0700

    Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Door repairs

    I'll note that the door on my coach must be shut with 

authority

    (like you mean it) or the automotive-type lock won't latch

    properly. This was the situation with the original weather

    stripping and with the weather stripping I installed. Once 

the

    automotive latch is properly activated, then the dead bolt 

lines

    up properly. 

    If you try to open the door with the dead bolt locked, then 

when

    the automotive latch releases, the pressure on the dead 

bolt is

    sufficient that the solenoid won't move it. Depending on 

which

    side of the door you're on, you either have to pull or push 

on

    the door to relieve the pressure on the dead bolt, then the

    solenoid will through the bolt.

    Pete Masterson

    '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

    El Sobrante CA

    aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>

    On Jun 11, 2008, at 8:22 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

        Ryan, when I use the keyless on my '94 I have to push 

on the

        door to 

        line up the deadbolt. This is all done blind folded as 

I cant

        see or 

        feel what is going on in the jamb.  I think someone 

replaced the 

        seal with a too ambitious foam/rubber  product. fat 

seals endup 

        causing the door operator to slam and place a hard turn 

on the 

        lock.  One other issue is that the door on my 94 is 

alumnium and 

        swells more than the steel frame in the sun. just some 

things to 

        consider with your project

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[David Brady]

Let us know what you find out Pete. I assume that the plastic channel
was

installed by Peninsula. It's possible that it was added later by
BlueBird. Sure

does work. To cinch the screen I use a pen, or similarly skinny object,
and

shift the plastic channel towards the rear of the bus. The channel then
rides

up on the curvature of the window, at the corner, and forces the screen

upward "clamping" it into the window. My windows are silent. No high

pitch tones either. The trouble with this fix, as with any rattle fix,
is that

we've just peeled the onion; i.e, those rattling screens cover up a lot
of

other noises that you didn't know existed.



David Brady





Pete Masterson wrote:

That sounds like exactly what I need. There's a lot of rattling
going on with a couple of the windows. But I also get wind noise
(high-pitched whistle). Due to the age of my windows, the sealing
simply seems to be worn down. It hadn't occurred to me before, but I'll
contact Peninsula Glass and see if they have any ideas on how to
renew the weather stripping.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 13, 2008, at 9:42 AM, David Brady wrote:

What makes noise on my side windows are the
screens - they rattle

over bumps. I found that Penisula Glass put a plastic channel at the

base of my screens that slides in another extruded channel in the

window frame. The plastic piece is a few inches shorter than the window

frame. It's purpose is to cinch the screen into the extruded window

frame to prevent rattling. It works. If you don't have such an item,

you can probably get it from Peninsula. It's a simple matter to pop

out the screen, seat the plastic channel, and re-insert the screen.



David Brady,

'02 LXi, NC



Pete Masterson wrote:

I actually only replaced the outside edge, top and bottom but
not the hinge-edge of the weather stripping. The hinge edge was more
bother, so I put it off. I then noticed that the wind noise I was
getting had gone away.

I also got rid of some wind noises in the door window by
installing some weather stripping there, too. I used a kind of 'fur'
stuff -- stiff fibers about 1/16" long that stick up from a 3/16"
sticky tape.

I have a bit of similar wind noise from the driver's side
window as well. Installing a bunch more of the fur-stuff is on my to do
list. 

These kinds of things are endless -- I have several of the
other windows that need troubleshooting for rattles and wind noise as
well. Difficulty there is that it helps to be able to sit/stand near
the window and experiment to find exactly where the noise/air leak is
coming from. I can't do that while I'm driving. Wife won't drive the
bus. So I need to wait for a day when there's gale force winds blowing
so I can fiddle with the windows while parked... (We don't get many of
those days around here.)

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 13, 2008, at 6:46 AM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

The most annoying noise resulting from wind at the entry
door comes 

from atop the passanger seat. 1- opening up the airvent
pressurizes 

the cab enough to keep air from entering.(close rear
windows also) 2-

Saying "What,,, What,,,, What,,," is effective in
reduction of seat 

noise.  I
don't get the 'skin the cat anology' but these are two of 

those other ways.

Less weather strip is needed at the hinge side.  too much will lift 

the hinge and soon distort.  hollow strips seem to seal
better with 

less pressure but when you distort the mechanics, you end
up needing 

newspaper sticking out the jam. 

GregoryO'Connor

94ptRomolandCa

 --- In "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com",
David Brady "dmb993@..." 

wrote:

Yes, that piano hinge doesn't help. It was okay on a
school bus

(with 2 doors meeting in the center), but it's not quite
good 

enough

on a single door motorhome. What we need is a true
automotive

style door hinge, which pulls the door out away from the
vehicle

rather than a piano hinge which severely pinches the
weather 

stripping

adjacent to the hinge. Alas, we're probably stuck with
it.

David

'02 LXi, NC

Pete Masterson wrote:

I've examined the door geometry very closely. It
doesn't seem 

like 

there's any real solution -- it appears to be a
"feature" (as in 

"that's not a bug, it's an undocumented feature")...
When my 

weather 

stripping was failing, the door was easier to close,
but then 

there 

were some air leaks and wind noise. Once I renewed the
weather 

strip 

(with a profile that was quite similar to the
original) then the 

door 

was a bit harder to close, but the air leaks and wind
noise was 

gone. 

I've adjusted to it and have become accustomed to
using a firm 

hand 

when closing the door. It's not really an excessive
amount of 

force, 

but it is rather more than is required for most
vehicles. I 

chalk it 

up to being a Blue Bird quirk.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>

On Jun 12, 2008, at 6:48 PM, brad barton wrote:

Pete, 

That is exactly what happens on mine.  Very frustrating.  Also 

no 

real way that anyone knows of to adjust it.

Brad Barton 00LXiDFW bbartonwx@... <"bbartonwx"@...>

    ------------------------------------------------------------

------------

    To: "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com"

    <"WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com">

    From:
aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>

    Date:
Thu, 12 Jun 2008 09:56:22 -0700

    Subject:
Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Door repairs

    I'll
note that the door on my coach must be shut with 

authority

    (like
you mean it) or the automotive-type lock won't latch

    properly.
This was the situation with the original weather

    stripping
and with the weather stripping I installed. Once 

the

    automotive
latch is properly activated, then the dead bolt 

lines

    up
properly. 

    If
you try to open the door with the dead bolt locked, then 

when

    the
automotive latch releases, the pressure on the dead 

bolt is

    sufficient
that the solenoid won't move it. Depending on 

which

    side
of the door you're on, you either have to pull or push 

on

    the
door to relieve the pressure on the dead bolt, then the

    solenoid
will through the bolt.

    Pete
Masterson

    '95
Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

    El
Sobrante CA

    aeonix1@...
<"aeonix1"@...>

    On
Jun 11, 2008, at 8:22 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

        Ryan,
when I use the keyless on my '94 I have to push 

on the

        door
to 

        line
up the deadbolt. This is all done blind folded as 

I cant

        see
or 

        feel
what is going on in the jamb.  I
think someone 

replaced the 

        seal
with a too ambitious foam/rubber  product.
fat 

seals endup 

        causing
the door operator to slam and place a hard turn 

on the 

        lock.  One other issue is that the
door on my 94 is 

alumnium and 

        swells
more than the steel frame in the sun. just some 

things to 

        consider
with your project

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[Ryan Wright]

On Fri, Jun 13, 2008 at 8:29 AM, Pete Masterson wrote:
>
> I also got rid of some wind noises in the door window by installing some
> weather stripping there, too. I used a kind of 'fur' stuff -- stiff fibers
> about 1/16" long that stick up from a 3/16" sticky tape.

I did the same thing last year and I think it was at your suggestion,
Pete. Only cost me a couple of bucks and half an hour's worth of my
time to do the door & driver's windows and made a huge difference.
Really quieted things down.

-Ryan
'86 PT-40 8V92

[Leroy Eckert]

Boy, you got that right. Reality sets in every day it seems. We are leaving tomorrow to attend a memorial service for my wife's father. While it was not unexpected it still ain't fun. It is a reminder that life is short, we should use the coach as much as possible, because the number will pop up at any time. My father sat me down 50 years ago and said, "If you live a long life you will experience one or more funerals, if not it is a mute point." I think he was right. The wife is doing well under the circumstances. Leroy Eckert 1990 WB-40 Royale Dahlonega, GA Royale Conversion Still reality based --- On Thu, 6/12/08, George Burke wrote: From: George Burke Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Door repairs To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Date: Thursday, June 12, 2008, 10:41 PM Leroy, Welcome to the club. When it all comes down to it, we are all pretty much Whacko. Also don't worry about hearing voices from time to time. A friend once told me that the time to WORRY is when you no longer hear them! LOL!!! George Burke 1977 FC31 Charlotte On Tue, Jun 10, 2008 at 9:20 PM, Leroy Eckert <"jwasnewski@yahoo.com"> wrote: As usual I am on the outside looking in on the lock deal but that is ok. I do not use mine even though it works because I am very catastrophic failure or natural disaster superstitious. I have a home fire escape plan which has a basement in a two story home with two exit doors other than the garage. In addition I have 6 smoke detectors. In a building in case of fire do not use the elevator use the stairs. In the bus, in case of fire the auto remote lock will not work. There is only one way out except for the windows and the sooner you are out the better. I keep a mini sledge in the bedroom just in case, to hell with depending on the windows to slide even though they do. You just cannot be to careful. Leroy Eckert 1990 WB-40 Royale Dahlonega, GA Smoke N Mirrors Whacko and hear voices from time to time. Ryan Wright <"ryanpwright@gmail.com"> wrote: Two questions, 1. Where can I get a new door seal? Mine is old and falling apart. 2. Any tips on getting the remote lock to work reliably? Mine works sporadically. Sometimes it's fine, other times it just refuses. Can't be the switch because both the dash switches and the bedroom switch work (or don't) at the same time. I want to install a keyless entry, but need to make the door lock work reliably first. Thank you, -Ryan '86 PT-40 8V92

[Jack and Liz Pearce]

Howdy, Pete.

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson wrote:
>
> I actually only replaced the outside edge, top and bottom but not the
> hinge-edge of the weather stripping. The hinge edge was more bother,
> so I put it off. I then noticed that the wind noise I was getting had
> gone away.
>
> I also got rid of some wind noises in the door window by installing
> some weather stripping there, too. I used a kind of 'fur' stuff --
> stiff fibers about 1/16" long that stick up from a 3/16" sticky tape.
================================================================================​===
This "fur" stuff is what I need for our door window. What is the name of it and where did you get it?

TIA,
Jack Pearce
1993 WLWB 40 ft.
Summering in Buena Vista, CO

[Pete Masterson]

I was afraid someone would ask... I found it in the weather stripping department of my local hardware store (Orchard Supply Hardware). They have a variety of rubber, felt, vinyl, and 'furry-looking' weather stripping on adhesive backing -- usually in rolls in square boxes or plastic packs. 

I no longer have the original package of the furry stuff -- but I have a few inches left over. Since it's used for windows and a lot of other things, I'd imagine that Lowes or Home Depot would have something similar. The stuff I used was tan in color, but I've seen it in white and black in the past. It was in a display with the various rubber and felt general weather strip products.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 13, 2008, at 4:03 PM, Jack and Liz Pearce wrote:

Howdy, Pete.

<snip>

This "fur" stuff is what I need for our door window. What is the name of it  and where did you get it?

TIA,
Jack Pearce
1993 WLWB 40 ft.
Summering in Buena Vista, CO
  

[Pete Masterson]

Entry door and basement doors are operated with electric solenoids. I shudder to think that BB used air to drive the locks on the LXI.... especially since the 'air step' has proved to be so durable...

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 13, 2008, at 6:31 PM, David Brady wrote:

Do you non-LXi owners have air locks on your door?

David
'02 LXi, NC

Pete Masterson wrote:

I actually only replaced the outside edge, top and bottom but not the hinge-edge of the weather stripping. The hinge edge was more bother, so I put it off. I then noticed that the wind noise I was getting had gone away.

I also got rid of some wind noises in the door window by installing some weather stripping there, too. I used a kind of 'fur' stuff -- stiff fibers about 1/16" long that stick up from a 3/16" sticky tape.

I have a bit of similar wind noise from the driver's side window as well. Installing a bunch more of the fur-stuff is on my to do list. 

These kinds of things are endless -- I have several of the other windows that need troubleshooting for rattles and wind noise as well. Difficulty there is that it helps to be able to sit/stand near the window and experiment to find exactly where the noise/air leak is coming from. I can't do that while I'm driving. Wife won't drive the bus. So I need to wait for a day when there's gale force winds blowing so I can fiddle with the windows while parked... (We don't get many of those days around here.)

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 13, 2008, at 6:46 AM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

The most annoying noise resulting from wind at the entry door comes 

from atop the passanger seat. 1- opening up the airvent pressurizes 

the cab enough to keep air from entering.(close rear windows also) 2-

Saying "What,,, What,,,, What,,," is effective in reduction of seat 

noise.  I don't get the 'skin the cat anology' but these are two of 

those other ways.

Less weather strip is needed at the hinge side.  too much will lift 

the hinge and soon distort.  hollow strips seem to seal better with 

less pressure but when you distort the mechanics, you end up needing 

newspaper sticking out the jam. 

GregoryO'Connor

94ptRomolandCa

 --- In "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com", David Brady "dmb993@..." 

wrote:

Yes, that piano hinge doesn't help. It was okay on a school bus

(with 2 doors meeting in the center), but it's not quite good 

enough

on a single door motorhome. What we need is a true automotive

style door hinge, which pulls the door out away from the vehicle

rather than a piano hinge which severely pinches the weather 

stripping

adjacent to the hinge. Alas, we're probably stuck with it.

David

'02 LXi, NC

Pete Masterson wrote:

I've examined the door geometry very closely. It doesn't seem 

like 

there's any real solution -- it appears to be a "feature" (as in 

"that's not a bug, it's an undocumented feature")... When my 

weather 

stripping was failing, the door was easier to close, but then 

there 

were some air leaks and wind noise. Once I renewed the weather 

strip 

(with a profile that was quite similar to the original) then the 

door 

was a bit harder to close, but the air leaks and wind noise was 

gone. 

I've adjusted to it and have become accustomed to using a firm 

hand 

when closing the door. It's not really an excessive amount of 

force, 

but it is rather more than is required for most vehicles. I 

chalk it 

up to being a Blue Bird quirk.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>

On Jun 12, 2008, at 6:48 PM, brad barton wrote:

Pete, 

That is exactly what happens on mine.  Very frustrating.  Also 

no 

real way that anyone knows of to adjust it.

Brad Barton 00LXiDFW bbartonwx@... <"bbartonwx"@...>

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    To: "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com"

    <"WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com">

    From: aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>

    Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 09:56:22 -0700

    Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Door repairs

    I'll note that the door on my coach must be shut with 

authority

    (like you mean it) or the automotive-type lock won't latch

    properly. This was the situation with the original weather

    stripping and with the weather stripping I installed. Once 

the

    automotive latch is properly activated, then the dead bolt 

lines

    up properly. 

    If you try to open the door with the dead bolt locked, then 

when

    the automotive latch releases, the pressure on the dead 

bolt is

    sufficient that the solenoid won't move it. Depending on 

which

    side of the door you're on, you either have to pull or push 

on

    the door to relieve the pressure on the dead bolt, then the

    solenoid will through the bolt.

    Pete Masterson

    '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

    El Sobrante CA

    aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>

    On Jun 11, 2008, at 8:22 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

        Ryan, when I use the keyless on my '94 I have to push 

on the

        door to 

        line up the deadbolt. This is all done blind folded as 

I cant

        see or 

        feel what is going on in the jamb.  I think someone 

replaced the 

        seal with a too ambitious foam/rubber  product. fat 

seals endup 

        causing the door operator to slam and place a hard turn 

on the 

        lock.  One other issue is that the door on my 94 is 

alumnium and 

        swells more than the steel frame in the sun. just some 

things to 

        consider with your project

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[David Brady]

Do you non-LXi owners have air locks on your door?



David

'02 LXi, NC



Pete Masterson wrote:

I actually only replaced the outside edge, top and bottom but not
the hinge-edge of the weather stripping. The hinge edge was more
bother, so I put it off. I then noticed that the wind noise I was
getting had gone away.

I also got rid of some wind noises in the door window by
installing some weather stripping there, too. I used a kind of 'fur'
stuff -- stiff fibers about 1/16" long that stick up from a 3/16"
sticky tape.

I have a bit of similar wind noise from the driver's side window
as well. Installing a bunch more of the fur-stuff is on my to do list. 

These kinds of things are endless -- I have several of the other
windows that need troubleshooting for rattles and wind noise as well.
Difficulty there is that it helps to be able to sit/stand near the
window and experiment to find exactly where the noise/air leak is
coming from. I can't do that while I'm driving. Wife won't drive the
bus. So I need to wait for a day when there's gale force winds blowing
so I can fiddle with the windows while parked... (We don't get many of
those days around here.)

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 13, 2008, at 6:46 AM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

The most annoying noise resulting from wind at the entry door
comes 

from atop the passanger seat. 1- opening up the airvent
pressurizes 

the cab enough to keep air from entering.(close rear windows
also) 2-

Saying "What,,, What,,,, What,,," is effective in reduction of
seat 

noise.  I don't
get the 'skin the cat anology' but these are two of 

those other ways.

Less weather strip is needed at the hinge side.  too much will lift 

the hinge and soon distort. 
hollow strips seem to seal better with 

less pressure but when you distort the mechanics, you end up
needing 

newspaper sticking out the jam. 

GregoryO'Connor

94ptRomolandCa

 --- In "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com",
David Brady "dmb993@..." 

wrote:

Yes, that piano hinge doesn't help. It was okay on a school
bus

(with 2 doors meeting in the center), but it's not quite good 

enough

on a single door motorhome. What we need is a true automotive

style door hinge, which pulls the door out away from the
vehicle

rather than a piano hinge which severely pinches the weather 

stripping

adjacent to the hinge. Alas, we're probably stuck with it.

David

'02 LXi, NC

Pete Masterson wrote:

I've examined the door geometry very closely. It doesn't
seem 

like 

there's any real solution -- it appears to be a "feature"
(as in 

"that's not a bug, it's an undocumented feature")... When
my 

weather 

stripping was failing, the door was easier to close, but
then 

there 

were some air leaks and wind noise. Once I renewed the
weather 

strip 

(with a profile that was quite similar to the original)
then the 

door 

was a bit harder to close, but the air leaks and wind
noise was 

gone. 

I've adjusted to it and have become accustomed to using a
firm 

hand 

when closing the door. It's not really an excessive amount
of 

force, 

but it is rather more than is required for most vehicles. I 

chalk it 

up to being a Blue Bird quirk.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>

On Jun 12, 2008, at 6:48 PM, brad barton wrote:

Pete, 

That is exactly what happens on mine.  Very frustrating.  Also 

no 

real way that anyone knows of to adjust it.

Brad Barton 00LXiDFW bbartonwx@... <"bbartonwx"@...>

    ------------------------------------------------------------

------------

    To: "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com"

    <"WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com">

    From:
aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>

    Date:
Thu, 12 Jun 2008 09:56:22 -0700

    Subject:
Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Door repairs

    I'll
note that the door on my coach must be shut with 

authority

    (like
you mean it) or the automotive-type lock won't latch

    properly.
This was the situation with the original weather

    stripping
and with the weather stripping I installed. Once 

the

    automotive
latch is properly activated, then the dead bolt 

lines

    up
properly. 

    If you
try to open the door with the dead bolt locked, then 

when

    the
automotive latch releases, the pressure on the dead 

bolt is

    sufficient
that the solenoid won't move it. Depending on 

which

    side of
the door you're on, you either have to pull or push 

on

    the door
to relieve the pressure on the dead bolt, then the

    solenoid
will through the bolt.

    Pete
Masterson

    '95 Blue
Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

    El
Sobrante CA

    aeonix1@...
<"aeonix1"@...>

    On Jun
11, 2008, at 8:22 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

        Ryan,
when I use the keyless on my '94 I have to push 

on the

        door
to 

        line
up the deadbolt. This is all done blind folded as 

I cant

        see
or 

        feel
what is going on in the jamb.  I
think someone 

replaced the 

        seal
with a too ambitious foam/rubber  product.
fat 

seals endup 

        causing
the door operator to slam and place a hard turn 

on the 

        lock.  One other issue is that the
door on my 94 is 

alumnium and 

        swells
more than the steel frame in the sun. just some 

things to 

        consider
with your project

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Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1500 - Release
Date: 

6/12/2008 4:58 PM

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[Don Bradner]

In a similar discussion in May of last year I posted:

The product used was "Ace Pile Weatherstrip" number 52210. 3/16H pile, 1/4W,
adhesive back. 17 feet was $10 at a large Ace in Kelso, WA.

On 6/13/2008 at 6:16 PM Pete Masterson wrote:

>I was afraid someone would ask... I found it in the weather stripping
>department of my local hardware store (Orchard Supply Hardware). They
>have a variety of rubber, felt, vinyl, and 'furry-looking' weather
>stripping on adhesive backing -- usually in rolls in square boxes or
>plastic packs.
>
>I no longer have the original package of the furry stuff -- but I
>have a few inches left over. Since it's used for windows and a lot of
>other things, I'd imagine that Lowes or Home Depot would have
>something similar. The stuff I used was tan in color, but I've seen
>it in white and black in the past. It was in a display with the
>various rubber and felt general weather strip products.
>
>Pete Masterson
>'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
>El Sobrante CA
>aeonix1@...
>
>
>
>On Jun 13, 2008, at 4:03 PM, Jack and Liz Pearce wrote:
>
>> Howdy, Pete.
>>
>> <snip>
>>
>> This "fur" stuff is what I need for our door window. What is the
>> name of it and where did you get it?
>>
>> TIA,
>> Jack Pearce
>> 1993 WLWB 40 ft.
>> Summering in Buena Vista, CO
>>

[David Brady]

That's fascinating! No wonder you guys are all complaining about

loud air noise around your entry way door. BB fixed this in '99

with the air-lock door. (I know Leroy is gonna love this...). My

entry way door has an air solenoid at the top on the non-hinge

side that propels a steel wedge thru a slot on the top of the door.

Every now and then I ask my wife why the door is making soooo

muuuuch noise, only to realize I forgot to engage the air-lock. I

thought, surely those wonderful, and "superior", Wanderlodges of

yesteryear have air-locks, cause this contraption completely wreaks

of yesterdays-style solutions; I thought it was standard Wanderlodge

fare. Silly me. Go get one, they work. I engage it, it slams down

with an authoritative "clunk" and my door is cinched close to the

steel coach body - no noise. I assume if I lose air the lock
dissengages,

yikes, I better test that!



David Brady

'02 LXi, NC



Pete Masterson wrote:

Entry door and basement doors are operated with electric
solenoids. I shudder to think that BB used air to drive the locks on
the LXI.... especially since the 'air step' has proved to be so
durable...

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 13, 2008, at 6:31 PM, David Brady wrote:

Do you non-LXi owners have air locks on your
door?



David

'02 LXi, NC



Pete Masterson wrote:

I actually only replaced the outside edge, top and bottom but
not the hinge-edge of the weather stripping. The hinge edge was more
bother, so I put it off. I then noticed that the wind noise I was
getting had gone away.

I also got rid of some wind noises in the door window by
installing some weather stripping there, too. I used a kind of 'fur'
stuff -- stiff fibers about 1/16" long that stick up from a 3/16"
sticky tape.

I have a bit of similar wind noise from the driver's side
window as well. Installing a bunch more of the fur-stuff is on my to do
list. 

These kinds of things are endless -- I have several of the
other windows that need troubleshooting for rattles and wind noise as
well. Difficulty there is that it helps to be able to sit/stand near
the window and experiment to find exactly where the noise/air leak is
coming from. I can't do that while I'm driving. Wife won't drive the
bus. So I need to wait for a day when there's gale force winds blowing
so I can fiddle with the windows while parked... (We don't get many of
those days around here.)

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 13, 2008, at 6:46 AM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

The most annoying noise resulting from wind at the entry
door comes 

from atop the passanger seat. 1- opening up the airvent
pressurizes 

the cab enough to keep air from entering.(close rear
windows also) 2-

Saying "What,,, What,,,, What,,," is effective in
reduction of seat 

noise.  I
don't get the 'skin the cat anology' but these are two of 

those other ways.

Less weather strip is needed at the hinge side.  too much will lift 

the hinge and soon distort.  hollow strips seem to seal
better with 

less pressure but when you distort the mechanics, you end
up needing 

newspaper sticking out the jam. 

GregoryO'Connor

94ptRomolandCa

 --- In "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com",
David Brady "dmb993@..." 

wrote:

Yes, that piano hinge doesn't help. It was okay on a
school bus

(with 2 doors meeting in the center), but it's not quite
good 

enough

on a single door motorhome. What we need is a true
automotive

style door hinge, which pulls the door out away from the
vehicle

rather than a piano hinge which severely pinches the
weather 

stripping

adjacent to the hinge. Alas, we're probably stuck with
it.

David

'02 LXi, NC

Pete Masterson wrote:

I've examined the door geometry very closely. It
doesn't seem 

like 

there's any real solution -- it appears to be a
"feature" (as in 

"that's not a bug, it's an undocumented feature")...
When my 

weather 

stripping was failing, the door was easier to close,
but then 

there 

were some air leaks and wind noise. Once I renewed the
weather 

strip 

(with a profile that was quite similar to the
original) then the 

door 

was a bit harder to close, but the air leaks and wind
noise was 

gone. 

I've adjusted to it and have become accustomed to
using a firm 

hand 

when closing the door. It's not really an excessive
amount of 

force, 

but it is rather more than is required for most
vehicles. I 

chalk it 

up to being a Blue Bird quirk.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>

On Jun 12, 2008, at 6:48 PM, brad barton wrote:

Pete, 

That is exactly what happens on mine.  Very frustrating.  Also 

no 

real way that anyone knows of to adjust it.

Brad Barton 00LXiDFW bbartonwx@... <"bbartonwx"@...>

    ------------------------------------------------------------

------------

    To: "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com"

    <"WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com">

    From:
aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>

    Date:
Thu, 12 Jun 2008 09:56:22 -0700

    Subject:
Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Door repairs

    I'll
note that the door on my coach must be shut with 

authority

    (like
you mean it) or the automotive-type lock won't latch

    properly.
This was the situation with the original weather

    stripping
and with the weather stripping I installed. Once 

the

    automotive
latch is properly activated, then the dead bolt 

lines

    up
properly. 

    If
you try to open the door with the dead bolt locked, then 

when

    the
automotive latch releases, the pressure on the dead 

bolt is

    sufficient
that the solenoid won't move it. Depending on 

which

    side
of the door you're on, you either have to pull or push 

on

    the
door to relieve the pressure on the dead bolt, then the

    solenoid
will through the bolt.

    Pete
Masterson

    '95
Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

    El
Sobrante CA

    aeonix1@...
<"aeonix1"@...>

    On
Jun 11, 2008, at 8:22 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

        Ryan,
when I use the keyless on my '94 I have to push 

on the

        door
to 

        line
up the deadbolt. This is all done blind folded as 

I cant

        see
or 

        feel
what is going on in the jamb.  I
think someone 

replaced the 

        seal
with a too ambitious foam/rubber  product.
fat 

seals endup 

        causing
the door operator to slam and place a hard turn 

on the 

        lock.  One other issue is that the
door on my 94 is 

alumnium and 

        swells
more than the steel frame in the sun. just some 

things to 

        consider
with your project

----------------------------------------------------------------

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social 

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Checked by AVG. 

Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1500 -
Release Date: 

6/12/2008 4:58 PM

------------------------------------

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    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WanderlodgeForum/

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Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1500 - Release Date: 6/12/2008 4:58 PM

No virus found in this incoming message.

Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1500 - Release Date: 6/12/2008 4:58 PM