Basic trailer wiring for a guy that's definitely not smarter then a 5th Grader.

[bubblerboy64]

Boys, I got a problem. I've got my toad wired up for flat towing.
The car is done correctly because I pulled it up behind my Tahoe and
had the wife run thru the lights and everything works great when its
plugged into the Tahoe. I put extra lights in the lenses with double
filaments in the bulbs Its a basic four wire connection. One ground,
one running lights and one each for the turn signals and brakes.

Here is what I have correct. The running lights to the brown lead
I can get the turn signals to work as long as I don't hook up the
brake lights. I can get the brake lights to work if I don't have the
turn signals wired in. When I go to wire the turn signals and the
brakes to the common lead (according to the directions) I seem to be
having problems. This bus has separate lights for the brakes and turn
signals. The top light is turn signal only the lower light is brakes
only and they all come on when the head lights are on (I assume there
are two filament bulbs in each light) one is wired to the running
lights and the other is to either the brake light or the turn signal
depending on whether its an upper or lower light.

I have isolated a hot wire off of each turn signal, a hot wire off of
the running lights and a hot wire for the brake lights. How do I
wire the brake lights into the yellow and green wires which are
common leads(with the turn signals) to the toad? Maybe my problem
is I need two hot wires for the brakes one off of the right side and
one off the left side of the bus. In other words maybe I am crossing
the right side lights with the left side lights when I've been wiring
in the brakes? Maybe I answered my own question? See if you think
this is my problem and let me know. I've worked a little too long on
this and I'm brain dead today.

Confused? I sure am. Thanks

John Heckman
central Pa
1973 FC

[jim riordan]

I have a 2007 suburban, they wired the truck in a complicated way. Instead of trying to figure out the seperate brake and signal situation on the sub, I just usedbrake lights bulbs for all inputs from coach. used diodes on all three wires. Four wire left & right signalsand brake lamps yellow and green.and the brownthe running lights. I elimated one brown wire from sub. White ground So all input from coach go to only brake bulb no add bulbs. brown 1 input from sub one from coach to combined running out to tail lights..

Jim Riordan

88 WBWL XXV

772-260-1328

bubblerboy64 wrote:

Boys, I got a problem. I've got my toad wired up for flat towing.
The car is done correctly because I pulled it up behind my Tahoe and
had the wife run thru the lights and everything works great when its
plugged into the Tahoe. I put extra lights in the lenses with double
filaments in the bulbs Its a basic four wire connection. One ground,
one running lights and one each for the turn signals and brakes.

Here is what I have correct. The running lights to the brown lead
I can get the turn signals to work as long as I don't hook up the
brake lights. I can get the brake lights to work if I don't have the
turn signals wired in. When I go to wire the turn signals and the
brakes to the common lead (according to the directions) I seem to be
having problems. This bus has separate lights
for the brakes and turn
signals. The top light is turn signal only the lower light is brakes
only and they all come on when the head lights are on (I assume there
are two filament bulbs in each light) one is wired to the running
lights and the other is to either the brake light or the turn signal
depending on whether its an upper or lower light.

I have isolated a hot wire off of each turn signal, a hot wire off of
the running lights and a hot wire for the brake lights. How do I
wire the brake lights into the yellow and green wires which are
common leads(with the turn signals) to the toad? Maybe my problem
is I need two hot wires for the brakes one off of the right side and
one off the left side of the bus. In other words maybe I am crossing
the right side lights with the left side lights when I've been wiring
in the brakes? Maybe I answered my own question? See if you think
this is my problem and let me know. I've
worked a little too long on
this and I'm brain dead today.

Confused? I sure am. Thanks

John Heckman
central Pa
1973 FC

[bubblerboy64]

I didn't mention that the problem when I combined the turn signal and
brake lights was that it stopped the turn signals from flashing in
the bus. Perhaps that is what the diode is for? Any ways I am
missing some piece of the puzzle. I have the extra bulbs already in
the lenses so I am pretty much commited to that method. There is
something different in the bus over a newer car. The Toad is set up
correctly. If I was towing the car behind the Tahoe I'd be good to
go the problem is in the bus, something is different. I know this is
difficult to figure without being there, but I appreciate the effort.
I may just have to get "professional help" on this one. But the
diode may be what I need. What does the diode do? Keeps the current
from flowing back? Maybe a diode on each of the turnsignal and brake
lights is what is needed? I am close here I think if I can just get
that last piece of the puzzle to fit. Help some one. I hate to give
up and call "uncle".
John Heckman
central Pa
1973 FC





>
> I have a 2007 suburban, they wired the truck in a complicated way.
Instead of trying to figure out the seperate brake and signal
situation on the sub, I just used brake lights bulbs for all inputs
from coach. used diodes on all three wires. Four wire left & right
signals and brake lamps yellow and green.and the brown the running
lights. I elimated one brown wire from sub. White ground So all input
from coach go to only brake bulb no add bulbs. brown 1 input from sub
one from coach to combined running out to tail lights..
>
> Jim Riordan
> 88 WBWL XXV
> 772-260-1328
>
> bubblerboy64 wrote:
> Boys, I got a problem. I've got my toad wired up for flat
towing.
> The car is done correctly because I pulled it up behind my Tahoe
and
> had the wife run thru the lights and everything works great when
its
> plugged into the Tahoe. I put extra lights in the lenses with
double
> filaments in the bulbs Its a basic four wire connection. One
ground,
> one running lights and one each for the turn signals and brakes.
>
> Here is what I have correct. The running lights to the brown lead
> I can get the turn signals to work as long as I don't hook up the
> brake lights. I can get the brake lights to work if I don't have
the
> turn signals wired in. When I go to wire the turn signals and the
> brakes to the common lead (according to the directions) I seem to
be
> having problems. This bus has separate lights for the brakes and
turn
> signals. The top light is turn signal only the lower light is
brakes
> only and they all come on when the head lights are on (I assume
there
> are two filament bulbs in each light) one is wired to the running
> lights and the other is to either the brake light or the turn
signal
> depending on whether its an upper or lower light.
>
> I have isolated a hot wire off of each turn signal, a hot wire off
of
> the running lights and a hot wire for the brake lights. How do I
> wire the brake lights into the yellow and green wires which are
> common leads(with the turn signals) to the toad? Maybe my problem
> is I need two hot wires for the brakes one off of the right side
and
> one off the left side of the bus. In other words maybe I am
crossing
> the right side lights with the left side lights when I've been
wiring
> in the brakes? Maybe I answered my own question? See if you think
> this is my problem and let me know. I've worked a little too long
on
> this and I'm brain dead today.
>
> Confused? I sure am. Thanks
>
> John Heckman
> central Pa
> 1973 FC
>

[Gregory OConnor]

Some Cars have taillights that warn the driver that a bulb is out
by turning off the dash lights . some cars recognize a brake light
and turn on an electric vacumn pump thinking some one hit the
brakes. when the Bus sends a 'turn on light light signal to the
toad, the toad might be sending signals to other things in the toad
that is pusing amps from the car battery back at the bus. Even if
you isolate it with a diode (electrical backflow valve)you still
have signals and battery consumption in the toad.

Diodes as an electrical backflow device suck. A LED is a diode
(light emitting diode) that by chance glows. you send power in one
leg called the anode and it can only pass to the other leg the
cathode or K or the side with the thin stripe (remember out the
stipped ass). power wont flow the otherway.
Often the problem is with amber turn signal units (Puller or toad)
which have a seperate wire for brake and turn mixed with a unit that
has the brake light share the turn signal wire. My 94pt has Volvo
taillights which are 4 wire.

When I had problems hooking up my LandRover toad, someone suggested
I use diodes. I would use handsignals or trade the LandRover in for
a volvo with matching taillights before I installed diodes. The
problem with diodes is they crap out ;if you get a trailer
short ;blow a bulb ;spark the connector, etc.

GregoryO'Connor



--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bubblerboy64"
wrote:
>
> I didn't mention that the problem when I combined the turn signal
and
> brake lights was that it stopped the turn signals from flashing in
> the bus. Perhaps that is what the diode is for? Any ways I am
> missing some piece of the puzzle. I have the extra bulbs already
in
> the lenses so I am pretty much commited to that method. There is
> something different in the bus over a newer car. The Toad is set
up
> correctly. If I was towing the car behind the Tahoe I'd be good
to
> go the problem is in the bus, something is different. I know this
is
> difficult to figure without being there, but I appreciate the
effort.
> I may just have to get "professional help" on this one. But the
> diode may be what I need. What does the diode do? Keeps the
current
> from flowing back? Maybe a diode on each of the turnsignal and
brake
> lights is what is needed? I am close here I think if I can just
get
> that last piece of the puzzle to fit. Help some one. I hate to
give
> up and call "uncle".
> John Heckman
> central Pa
> 1973 FC
>
>
>
>
>
> >
> > I have a 2007 suburban, they wired the truck in a complicated
way.
> Instead of trying to figure out the seperate brake and signal
> situation on the sub, I just used brake lights bulbs for all
inputs
> from coach. used diodes on all three wires. Four wire left & right
> signals and brake lamps yellow and green.and the brown the running
> lights. I elimated one brown wire from sub. White ground So all
input
> from coach go to only brake bulb no add bulbs. brown 1 input from
sub
> one from coach to combined running out to tail lights..
> >
> > Jim Riordan
> > 88 WBWL XXV
> > 772-260-1328
> >
> > bubblerboy64 wrote:
> > Boys, I got a problem. I've got my toad wired up for
flat
> towing.
> > The car is done correctly because I pulled it up behind my Tahoe
> and
> > had the wife run thru the lights and everything works great when
> its
> > plugged into the Tahoe. I put extra lights in the lenses with
> double
> > filaments in the bulbs Its a basic four wire connection. One
> ground,
> > one running lights and one each for the turn signals and brakes.
> >
> > Here is what I have correct. The running lights to the brown lead
> > I can get the turn signals to work as long as I don't hook up
the
> > brake lights. I can get the brake lights to work if I don't have
> the
> > turn signals wired in. When I go to wire the turn signals and
the
> > brakes to the common lead (according to the directions) I seem
to
> be
> > having problems. This bus has separate lights for the brakes and
> turn
> > signals. The top light is turn signal only the lower light is
> brakes
> > only and they all come on when the head lights are on (I assume
> there
> > are two filament bulbs in each light) one is wired to the
running
> > lights and the other is to either the brake light or the turn
> signal
> > depending on whether its an upper or lower light.
> >
> > I have isolated a hot wire off of each turn signal, a hot wire
off
> of
> > the running lights and a hot wire for the brake lights. How do I
> > wire the brake lights into the yellow and green wires which are
> > common leads(with the turn signals) to the toad? Maybe my
problem
> > is I need two hot wires for the brakes one off of the right side
> and
> > one off the left side of the bus. In other words maybe I am
> crossing
> > the right side lights with the left side lights when I've been
> wiring
> > in the brakes? Maybe I answered my own question? See if you
think
> > this is my problem and let me know. I've worked a little too
long
> on
> > this and I'm brain dead today.
> >
> > Confused? I sure am. Thanks
> >
> > John Heckman
> > central Pa
> > 1973 FC
> >
>

[bubblerboy64]

OK no diodes. Keep in mind that 1) the toad electrics are not
involved. I put two bulbs (drilled thru the back of the light
fictures and glued 'm in) and ran wirers to them. It would be like
having magnetic lights stuck to the car. No connections made to the
toad accept a ground. 2) everything works when the car is connected
to another vehicle. The problem is in the bus. It has to do with
connecting the hot lead from the brake lights to the hot wire from
the turn signals. It's something stupid simple that I am overlooking.
Or plain don't understand. I wonder if its the flasher unit? It has
enough power to flash both the lights on the toad and the bus but
when you add the brake it shuts down. Hmmm
John Heckman
central Pa
1973 FC
>
> Some Cars have taillights that warn the driver that a bulb is out
> by turning off the dash lights . some cars recognize a brake light
> and turn on an electric vacumn pump thinking some one hit the
> brakes. when the Bus sends a 'turn on light light signal to the
> toad, the toad might be sending signals to other things in the toad
> that is pusing amps from the car battery back at the bus. Even if
> you isolate it with a diode (electrical backflow valve)you still
> have signals and battery consumption in the toad.
>
> Diodes as an electrical backflow device suck. A LED is a diode
> (light emitting diode) that by chance glows. you send power in one
> leg called the anode and it can only pass to the other leg the
> cathode or K or the side with the thin stripe (remember out the
> stipped ass). power wont flow the otherway.
> Often the problem is with amber turn signal units (Puller or toad)
> which have a seperate wire for brake and turn mixed with a unit
that
> has the brake light share the turn signal wire. My 94pt has Volvo
> taillights which are 4 wire.
>
> When I had problems hooking up my LandRover toad, someone suggested
> I use diodes. I would use handsignals or trade the LandRover in for
> a volvo with matching taillights before I installed diodes. The
> problem with diodes is they crap out ;if you get a trailer
> short ;blow a bulb ;spark the connector, etc.
>
> GregoryO'Connor
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bubblerboy64"
> wrote:
> >
> > I didn't mention that the problem when I combined the turn signal
> and
> > brake lights was that it stopped the turn signals from flashing
in
> > the bus. Perhaps that is what the diode is for? Any ways I am
> > missing some piece of the puzzle. I have the extra bulbs already
> in
> > the lenses so I am pretty much commited to that method. There is
> > something different in the bus over a newer car. The Toad is set
> up
> > correctly. If I was towing the car behind the Tahoe I'd be good
> to
> > go the problem is in the bus, something is different. I know
this
> is
> > difficult to figure without being there, but I appreciate the
> effort.
> > I may just have to get "professional help" on this one. But the
> > diode may be what I need. What does the diode do? Keeps the
> current
> > from flowing back? Maybe a diode on each of the turnsignal and
> brake
> > lights is what is needed? I am close here I think if I can just
> get
> > that last piece of the puzzle to fit. Help some one. I hate to
> give
> > up and call "uncle".
> > John Heckman
> > central Pa
> > 1973 FC
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I have a 2007 suburban, they wired the truck in a complicated
> way.
> > Instead of trying to figure out the seperate brake and signal
> > situation on the sub, I just used brake lights bulbs for all
> inputs
> > from coach. used diodes on all three wires. Four wire left &
right
> > signals and brake lamps yellow and green.and the brown the
running
> > lights. I elimated one brown wire from sub. White ground So all
> input
> > from coach go to only brake bulb no add bulbs. brown 1 input from
> sub
> > one from coach to combined running out to tail lights..
> > >
> > > Jim Riordan
> > > 88 WBWL XXV
> > > 772-260-1328
> > >
> > > bubblerboy64 wrote:
> > > Boys, I got a problem. I've got my toad wired up for
> flat
> > towing.
> > > The car is done correctly because I pulled it up behind my
Tahoe
> > and
> > > had the wife run thru the lights and everything works great
when
> > its
> > > plugged into the Tahoe. I put extra lights in the lenses with
> > double
> > > filaments in the bulbs Its a basic four wire connection. One
> > ground,
> > > one running lights and one each for the turn signals and
brakes.
> > >
> > > Here is what I have correct. The running lights to the brown
lead
> > > I can get the turn signals to work as long as I don't hook up
> the
> > > brake lights. I can get the brake lights to work if I don't
have
> > the
> > > turn signals wired in. When I go to wire the turn signals and
> the
> > > brakes to the common lead (according to the directions) I seem
> to
> > be
> > > having problems. This bus has separate lights for the brakes
and
> > turn
> > > signals. The top light is turn signal only the lower light is
> > brakes
> > > only and they all come on when the head lights are on (I assume
> > there
> > > are two filament bulbs in each light) one is wired to the
> running
> > > lights and the other is to either the brake light or the turn
> > signal
> > > depending on whether its an upper or lower light.
> > >
> > > I have isolated a hot wire off of each turn signal, a hot wire
> off
> > of
> > > the running lights and a hot wire for the brake lights. How do
I
> > > wire the brake lights into the yellow and green wires which are
> > > common leads(with the turn signals) to the toad? Maybe my
> problem
> > > is I need two hot wires for the brakes one off of the right
side
> > and
> > > one off the left side of the bus. In other words maybe I am
> > crossing
> > > the right side lights with the left side lights when I've been
> > wiring
> > > in the brakes? Maybe I answered my own question? See if you
> think
> > > this is my problem and let me know. I've worked a little too
> long
> > on
> > > this and I'm brain dead today.
> > >
> > > Confused? I sure am. Thanks
> > >
> > > John Heckman
> > > central Pa
> > > 1973 FC
> > >
> >
>

[Pete Masterson]

That might be a good guess. Get a heavy duty flasher to replace the one you have and see. They're not particularly expensive (if BB used a standard flasher). There are some new electronic models that handle higher voltage.

The other thought is that on a '73, I don't believe that you have a relay based lighting system unless it was retrofitted along the way. You may simply be running out of sufficient voltage in the long wire runs to the lights.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 17, 2008, at 2:15 AM, bubblerboy64 wrote:

<snip> I wonder if its the flasher unit? It has 

enough power to flash both the lights on the toad and the bus but 

when you add the brake it shuts down. Hmmm  

John Heckman

central Pa

1973 FC