electrical problems

[denny heck]

Back air works, center air works, from air does not. 110 lights in
bathroom does not work,outlets in the kitchen, some work. 12volts works
fine in kitchen and bathroom. is there any breakers in the back,
bedroom. by theway it a 1989 bluebird 38'. breaker box in the back
bedroom right side. it seems it started went the elec contractor wire
in a temp. service. more power on one leg then on the other side in the
front right of gauges. shut it down and rewire it then both legs ran
120. does any one have a wiring dig. for a 1989 120volt-220. thanks


denny

[Don Bradner]

I've experienced two serious electrical problems on our current trip. I'm hoping
the second problem (solved) was the cause of the first, but I can't get my head
around exactly how it would be, so I'm hoping someone with more RV electrical
experience than I have will have a clue. I will rest easier if I know what
caused the first problem.

The first problem I talked about here earlier, but will run through for clarity:

With a lot of draw going on, I had the 50-amp breaker on the park pole blow,
plus the main inside breakers, plus the breaker for the inverter. Power was lost
on the inverter circuit, and did not return when breakers were turned back on
with reduced draw. The inverter, a ProSine 2.0, is toast - burnt components
obvious when opening the case. I removed the inverter and wired input/output
together for power on the inverted circuit when on park power, and bought a
small charger to keep the batteries up while parked.

Xantrex sent out a new ProSine 2.0 (half-price, well out-of-warranty) and I will
get it tomorrow. I've been worrying about hooking it up without knowing what
caused the failure.

Problem number 2: Yesterday I moved, and on arrival at a park in Ogallala the
50-amp park breaker blew as soon as turned on. After turning off the internal
main breakers I was able to get the park breaker to hold after one more failure.
The breaker was "spongy" so I wasn't sure if it was just weak. Turning on the
main breakers inside worked fine.

Moved again today, and the problem repeated except that nothing would make it
work. In trying various things I found that my 30/50 cord worked fine.

So, I took the coach connector apart and found:

Screw for black wire fell out, and was quite black on the end. White and Red
attached, but screw not tight. Green was not attached at all - screw all the way
in, and wire laid across the top. Contacting case, but who knows how well.

It is amazing I had power at all. I cut the end off and rebuilt the connector,
and had no problem turning on the power.

It would seem to be an odd coincidence if problem one was not caused by problem
two, but since the ProSine 2.0 should in theory work regardless of what occurs
on the input side I'm not sure what the connection is. Anybody have thoughts on
this?

Don Bradner
90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
Posting today by satellite from Grand Island, Nebraska
My location: http://www.bbirdmaps.com/user2.cfm?user=1

[bubblerboy64]

Don, I know so little about this I shouldn't even comment but do you
think you were shorting across to the ground wire? You know we tend
to grab those plugs and pull and tug on them and if a wire gets loose
it can't be a good thing. Could the problem have started by plugging
into a socket that was shorted which damaged the male end of your
power cord resulting in the problem with the inverter. People have
been know to drive off having there bus plugged into the electrical
connection. If they do that and do damage how many of them would
stop and tell the owner of the camp? I guess we take our chances
everytime we plug into a strange hookup when you think about it.

John Heckman
central Pa
1973 FC
>
> I've experienced two serious electrical problems on our current
trip. I'm hoping the second problem (solved) was the cause of the
first, but I can't get my head around exactly how it would be, so I'm
hoping someone with more RV electrical experience than I have will
have a clue. I will rest easier if I know what caused the first
problem.
>
> The first problem I talked about here earlier, but will run through
for clarity:
>
> With a lot of draw going on, I had the 50-amp breaker on the park
pole blow, plus the main inside breakers, plus the breaker for the
inverter. Power was lost on the inverter circuit, and did not return
when breakers were turned back on with reduced draw. The inverter, a
ProSine 2.0, is toast - burnt components obvious when opening the
case. I removed the inverter and wired input/output together for
power on the inverted circuit when on park power, and bought a small
charger to keep the batteries up while parked.
>
> Xantrex sent out a new ProSine 2.0 (half-price, well out-of-
warranty) and I will get it tomorrow. I've been worrying about
hooking it up without knowing what caused the failure.
>
> Problem number 2: Yesterday I moved, and on arrival at a park in
Ogallala the 50-amp park breaker blew as soon as turned on. After
turning off the internal main breakers I was able to get the park
breaker to hold after one more failure. The breaker was "spongy" so I
wasn't sure if it was just weak. Turning on the main breakers inside
worked fine.
>
> Moved again today, and the problem repeated except that nothing
would make it work. In trying various things I found that my 30/50
cord worked fine.
>
> So, I took the coach connector apart and found:
>
> Screw for black wire fell out, and was quite black on the end.
White and Red attached, but screw not tight. Green was not attached
at all - screw all the way in, and wire laid across the top.
Contacting case, but who knows how well.
>
> It is amazing I had power at all. I cut the end off and rebuilt the
connector, and had no problem turning on the power.
>
> It would seem to be an odd coincidence if problem one was not
caused by problem two, but since the ProSine 2.0 should in theory
work regardless of what occurs on the input side I'm not sure what
the connection is. Anybody have thoughts on this?
>
> Don Bradner
> 90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
> Posting today by satellite from Grand Island, Nebraska
> My location: http://www.bbirdmaps.com/user2.cfm?user=1
>

[Gregory OConnor]

May be you can install a 10 amp breaker inline ( like the ac power
box???) for each Prosine. I wonder if the problem that caused the
prosine failure is the connection issue you found and the prosine is
the result. You might want to read thru this link, it may have some
answers???? (look at "open neutral")

http://www.myrv.us/electric/

Greg
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
wrote:
>
> I've experienced two serious electrical problems on our current
trip. I'm hoping the second problem (solved) was the cause of the
first, but I can't get my head around exactly how it would be, so
I'm hoping someone with more RV electrical experience than I have
will have a clue. I will rest easier if I know what caused the first
problem.
>
> The first problem I talked about here earlier, but will run
through for clarity:
>
> With a lot of draw going on, I had the 50-amp breaker on the park
pole blow, plus the main inside breakers, plus the breaker for the
inverter. Power was lost on the inverter circuit, and did not return
when breakers were turned back on with reduced draw. The inverter, a
ProSine 2.0, is toast - burnt components obvious when opening the
case. I removed the inverter and wired input/output together for
power on the inverted circuit when on park power, and bought a small
charger to keep the batteries up while parked.
>
> Xantrex sent out a new ProSine 2.0 (half-price, well out-of-
warranty) and I will get it tomorrow. I've been worrying about
hooking it up without knowing what caused the failure.
>
> Problem number 2: Yesterday I moved, and on arrival at a park in
Ogallala the 50-amp park breaker blew as soon as turned on. After
turning off the internal main breakers I was able to get the park
breaker to hold after one more failure. The breaker was "spongy" so
I wasn't sure if it was just weak. Turning on the main breakers
inside worked fine.
>
> Moved again today, and the problem repeated except that nothing
would make it work. In trying various things I found that my 30/50
cord worked fine.
>
> So, I took the coach connector apart and found:
>
> Screw for black wire fell out, and was quite black on the end.
White and Red attached, but screw not tight. Green was not attached
at all - screw all the way in, and wire laid across the top.
Contacting case, but who knows how well.
>
> It is amazing I had power at all. I cut the end off and rebuilt
the connector, and had no problem turning on the power.
>
> It would seem to be an odd coincidence if problem one was not
caused by problem two, but since the ProSine 2.0 should in theory
work regardless of what occurs on the input side I'm not sure what
the connection is. Anybody have thoughts on this?
>
> Don Bradner
> 90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
> Posting today by satellite from Grand Island, Nebraska
> My location: http://www.bbirdmaps.com/user2.cfm?user=1
>

[Gardner Yeaw]

Don,
The loose wires would likely result in a voltage drop. The burned
end on the balck wire proves that it was getting very hot and this is
an indication that it was drawing a high current through a poor
connection. This will produce heat and a drop in voltage.

I am only making an educated guess here, but when the Xantrex
sensed the shore line voltage it would engage the bypass relay. As
soon as it did, current would flow, the voltage would drop, and the
Xantrex would sense this and possably switch to invert mode. Now with
no load on the shore line, the voltage would come back up and the
cycle would repeat. So it is possable the Xantrex was switching in
and out of invert mode at a rapid pace, and that could easily result
in a failure.

Gardner
83FC35

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
wrote:
>
> I've experienced two serious electrical problems on our current
trip. I'm hoping the second problem (solved) was the cause of the
first, but I can't get my head around exactly how it would be, so I'm
hoping someone with more RV electrical experience than I have will
have a clue. I will rest easier if I know what caused the first
problem.
>
> The first problem I talked about here earlier, but will run through
for clarity:
>
> With a lot of draw going on, I had the 50-amp breaker on the park
pole blow, plus the main inside breakers, plus the breaker for the
inverter. Power was lost on the inverter circuit, and did not return
when breakers were turned back on with reduced draw. The inverter, a
ProSine 2.0, is toast - burnt components obvious when opening the
case. I removed the inverter and wired input/output together for
power on the inverted circuit when on park power, and bought a small
charger to keep the batteries up while parked.
>
> Xantrex sent out a new ProSine 2.0 (half-price, well out-of-
warranty) and I will get it tomorrow. I've been worrying about
hooking it up without knowing what caused the failure.
>
> Problem number 2: Yesterday I moved, and on arrival at a park in
Ogallala the 50-amp park breaker blew as soon as turned on. After
turning off the internal main breakers I was able to get the park
breaker to hold after one more failure. The breaker was "spongy" so I
wasn't sure if it was just weak. Turning on the main breakers inside
worked fine.
>
> Moved again today, and the problem repeated except that nothing
would make it work. In trying various things I found that my 30/50
cord worked fine.
>
> So, I took the coach connector apart and found:
>
> Screw for black wire fell out, and was quite black on the end.
White and Red attached, but screw not tight. Green was not attached
at all - screw all the way in, and wire laid across the top.
Contacting case, but who knows how well.
>
> It is amazing I had power at all. I cut the end off and rebuilt the
connector, and had no problem turning on the power.
>
> It would seem to be an odd coincidence if problem one was not
caused by problem two, but since the ProSine 2.0 should in theory
work regardless of what occurs on the input side I'm not sure what
the connection is. Anybody have thoughts on this?
>
> Don Bradner
> 90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
> Posting today by satellite from Grand Island, Nebraska
> My location: http://www.bbirdmaps.com/user2.cfm?user=1
>

[Curt Sprenger]

Don,

Great Post...Everyone...All of us with our older coaches need to do what Don just did, check our coach connectors. I'll add that we should also check our shore cord coach ends.

.On Thu, Aug 28, 2008 at 5:34 PM, Don Bradner <"bluethunder@arcatapet.com"> wrote:

I've experienced two serious electrical problems on our current trip. I'm hoping the second problem (solved) was the cause of the first, but I can't get my head around exactly how it would be, so I'm hoping someone with more RV electrical experience than I have will have a clue. I will rest easier if I know what caused the first problem.



The first problem I talked about here earlier, but will run through for clarity:



With a lot of draw going on, I had the 50-amp breaker on the park pole blow, plus the main inside breakers, plus the breaker for the inverter. Power was lost on the inverter circuit, and did not return when breakers were turned back on with reduced draw. The inverter, a ProSine 2.0, is toast - burnt components obvious when opening the case. I removed the inverter and wired input/output together for power on the inverted circuit when on park power, and bought a small charger to keep the batteries up while parked.



Xantrex sent out a new ProSine 2.0 (half-price, well out-of-warranty) and I will get it tomorrow. I've been worrying about hooking it up without knowing what caused the failure.



Problem number 2: Yesterday I moved, and on arrival at a park in Ogallala the 50-amp park breaker blew as soon as turned on. After turning off the internal main breakers I was able to get the park breaker to hold after one more failure. The breaker was "spongy" so I wasn't sure if it was just weak. Turning on the main breakers inside worked fine.



Moved again today, and the problem repeated except that nothing would make it work. In trying various things I found that my 30/50 cord worked fine.



So, I took the coach connector apart and found:



Screw for black wire fell out, and was quite black on the end. White and Red attached, but screw not tight. Green was not attached at all - screw all the way in, and wire laid across the top. Contacting case, but who knows how well.



It is amazing I had power at all. I cut the end off and rebuilt the connector, and had no problem turning on the power.



It would seem to be an odd coincidence if problem one was not caused by problem two, but since the ProSine 2.0 should in theory work regardless of what occurs on the input side I'm not sure what the connection is. Anybody have thoughts on this?



Don Bradner

90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"

Posting today by satellite from Grand Island, Nebraska

My location: www.bbirdmaps.com/user2.cfm?user=1

--
Curt Sprenger
1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
Anaheim Hills, CA

[Juergen]

Would it not be possible that with the loose wires in the connector, you could actually put 250 volts into the coach, remember that when you put your 50 amp cord in, you first shut off the circuit breakers so as to prevent an accidental 250 voltage input in case one ground wire makes no connection? A brief 250 volt shock will blow most electric things to bits. Remember there are 2 110 volt wires with each has its own return, if one return is not in contact, 250 V will hit and BOOOM. Possible?? Juergen in PA 1991 WLSP36 --- On Thu, 8/28/08, Don Bradner wrote: From: Don Bradner Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Electrical problems To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Date: Thursday, August 28, 2008, 8:34 PM I've experienced two serious electrical problems on our current trip. I'm hoping the second problem (solved) was the cause of the first, but I can't get my head around exactly how it would be, so I'm hoping someone with more RV electrical experience than I have will have a clue. I will rest easier if I know what caused the first problem. The first problem I talked about here earlier, but will run through for clarity: With a lot of draw going on, I had the 50-amp breaker on the park pole blow, plus the main inside breakers, plus the breaker for the inverter. Power was lost on the inverter circuit, and did not return when breakers were turned back on with reduced draw. The inverter, a ProSine 2.0, is toast - burnt components obvious when opening the case. I removed the inverter and wired input/output together for power on the inverted circuit when on park power, and bought a small charger to keep the batteries up while parked. Xantrex sent out a new ProSine 2.0 (half-price, well out-of-warranty) and I will get it tomorrow. I've been worrying about hooking it up without knowing what caused the failure. Problem number 2: Yesterday I moved, and on arrival at a park in Ogallala the 50-amp park breaker blew as soon as turned on. After turning off the internal main breakers I was able to get the park breaker to hold after one more failure. The breaker was "spongy" so I wasn't sure if it was just weak. Turning on the main breakers inside worked fine. Moved again today, and the problem repeated except that nothing would make it work. In trying various things I found that my 30/50 cord worked fine. So, I took the coach connector apart and found: Screw for black wire fell out, and was quite black on the end. White and Red attached, but screw not tight. Green was not attached at all - screw all the way in, and wire laid across the top. Contacting case, but who knows how well. It is amazing I had power at all. I cut the end off and rebuilt the connector, and had no problem turning on the power. It would seem to be an odd coincidence if problem one was not caused by problem two, but since the ProSine 2.0 should in theory work regardless of what occurs on the input side I'm not sure what the connection is. Anybody have thoughts on this? Don Bradner 90 PT40 "Blue Thunder" Posting today by satellite from Grand Island, Nebraska My location: http://www.bbirdmaps. com/user2. cfm?user= 1

[Gary Smith]

While I have some minor disagreements with some of what Juergen said (there is only one common wire in the cable, two hot, and one ground), with loose wires, it is possible you crossed the two 120v hot lines, providing the high voltage he suggests. I believe the whole problem was caused by the poor connections, Don. Not sure how the ProSine should react to 240v hitting it, but could well weld some contacts, as you found.

Gary

SOB

----- Original Message -----

From: "duesenmaschine@yahoo.com"

To: "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com"

Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 8:27 AM

Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Electrical problems

Would it not be possible that with the loose wires in the connector, you could actually put 250 volts into the coach, remember that when you put your 50 amp cord in, you first shut off the circuit breakers so as to prevent an accidental 250 voltage input in case one ground wire makes no connection? A brief 250 volt shock will blow most electric things to bits. Remember there are 2 110 volt wires with each has its own return, if one return is not in contact, 250 V will hit and BOOOM. Possible?? Juergen in PA 1991 WLSP36 --- On Thu, 8/28/08, Don Bradner arcatapet.com> wrote: From: Don Bradner arcatapet.com> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Electrical problems To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Date: Thursday, August 28, 2008, 8:34 PM I've experienced two serious electrical problems on our current trip. I'm hoping the second problem (solved) was the cause of the first, but I can't get my head around exactly how it would be, so I'm hoping someone with more RV electrical experience than I have will have a clue. I will rest easier if I know what caused the first problem. The first problem I talked about here earlier, but will run through for clarity: With a lot of draw going on, I had the 50-amp breaker on the park pole blow, plus the main inside breakers, plus the breaker for the inverter. Power was lost on the inverter circuit, and did not return when breakers were turned back on with reduced draw. The inverter, a ProSine 2.0, is toast - burnt components obvious when opening the case. I removed the inverter and wired input/output together for power on the inverted circuit when on park power, and bought a small charger to keep the batteries up while parked. Xantrex sent out a new ProSine 2.0 (half-price, well out-of-warranty) and I will get it tomorrow. I've been worrying about hooking it up without knowing what caused the failure. Problem number 2: Yesterday I moved, and on arrival at a park in Ogallala the 50-amp park breaker blew as soon as turned on. After turning off the internal main breakers I was able to get the park breaker to hold after one more failure. The breaker was "spongy" so I wasn't sure if it was just weak. Turning on the main breakers inside worked fine. Moved again today, and the problem repeated except that nothing would make it work. In trying various things I found that my 30/50 cord worked fine. So, I took the coach connector apart and found: Screw for black wire fell out, and was quite black on the end. White and Red attached, but screw not tight. Green was not attached at all - screw all the way in, and wire laid across the top. Contacting case, but who knows how well. It is amazing I had power at all. I cut the end off and rebuilt the connector, and had no problem turning on the power. It would seem to be an odd coincidence if problem one was not caused by problem two, but since the ProSine 2.0 should in theory work regardless of what occurs on the input side I'm not sure what the connection is. Anybody have thoughts on this? Don Bradner 90 PT40 "Blue Thunder" Posting today by satellite from Grand Island, Nebraska My location: http://www.bbirdmaps. com/user2. cfm?user= 1

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[Don Bradner]

I may not have been clear: It was the coach end of the shore cord, not the
connector that is part of the coach. The pole end is a molded connector, but the
coach end is not; don't know if that is original?

There is a plastic ring cinched down to the cord, just behind the connector. I
never gave it much thought, but now I wonder why that is there. It lends itself
to be the point that is grabbed to pull the connector out, but that puts strain
on the wires in the connector. Clearly I should grab the connector body to pull
it out, not the wires.

On 8/28/2008 at 8:31 PM Curt Sprenger wrote:

>Don,
>
>Great Post...Everyone...All of us with our older coaches need to do what
>Don
>just did, check our coach connectors. I'll add that we should also check
>our
>shore cord coach ends.
>
>.On Thu, Aug 28, 2008 at 5:34 PM, Don Bradner
>wrote:
>
>> I've experienced two serious electrical problems on our current trip.
>> I'm hoping the second problem (solved) was the cause of the first, but I
>> can't get my head around exactly how it would be, so I'm hoping someone
>with
>> more RV electrical experience than I have will have a clue. I will rest
>> easier if I know what caused the first problem.
>>
>> The first problem I talked about here earlier, but will run through for
>> clarity:
>>
>> With a lot of draw going on, I had the 50-amp breaker on the park pole
>> blow, plus the main inside breakers, plus the breaker for the inverter.
>> Power was lost on the inverter circuit, and did not return when breakers
>> were turned back on with reduced draw. The inverter, a ProSine 2.0, is
>toast
>> - burnt components obvious when opening the case. I removed the inverter
>and
>> wired input/output together for power on the inverted circuit when on
>park
>> power, and bought a small charger to keep the batteries up while parked.
>>
>> Xantrex sent out a new ProSine 2.0 (half-price, well out-of-warranty)
>and I
>> will get it tomorrow. I've been worrying about hooking it up without
>knowing
>> what caused the failure.
>>
>> Problem number 2: Yesterday I moved, and on arrival at a park in Ogallala
>> the 50-amp park breaker blew as soon as turned on. After turning off the
>> internal main breakers I was able to get the park breaker to hold after
>one
>> more failure. The breaker was "spongy" so I wasn't sure if it was just
>weak.
>> Turning on the main breakers inside worked fine.
>>
>> Moved again today, and the problem repeated except that nothing would
>make
>> it work. In trying various things I found that my 30/50 cord worked fine.
>>
>> So, I took the coach connector apart and found:
>>
>> Screw for black wire fell out, and was quite black on the end. White and
>> Red attached, but screw not tight. Green was not attached at all - screw
>all
>> the way in, and wire laid across the top. Contacting case, but who knows
>how
>> well.
>>
>> It is amazing I had power at all. I cut the end off and rebuilt the
>> connector, and had no problem turning on the power.
>>
>> It would seem to be an odd coincidence if problem one was not caused by
>> problem two, but since the ProSine 2.0 should in theory work regardless
>of
>> what occurs on the input side I'm not sure what the connection is.
>Anybody
>> have thoughts on this?
>>
>> Don Bradner
>> 90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
>> Posting today by satellite from Grand Island, Nebraska
>> My location: http://www.bbirdmaps.com/user2.cfm?user=1
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>--
>Curt Sprenger
>1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
>Anaheim Hills, CA

[bubblerboy64]

The 30 amp cord is pretty much a standard 110 with a funny plug on it
then? I knew that 220 was essentially two 110 hot wires but did not
know that the 50 was similar. Having been in a RV store not long ago
I noticed they had a featured item up near the check out a 50 amp
plug with a distinct pull handle on it. I think they also had 30amp
plugs similar. Didn't impress me at the time nearly as much as it
does now. I don't have 50 amps into my coach but I learned
something. I also did not realize the risk involved in the battery
campartments. I was informed last year at the Maxton rally about
that. I guess the low voltage stuff can be rather nasty as well.
Perhaps some one will review and explain what the risk with the low
voltage. Does make a rather nasty spark if you short the positive
against the metal I know that. All kinds of ways a fellow can get
hurt. I was up on the roof of my bird this morning and I was VERY
careful. I remember seeing Don's X rays. I don't much like it up
there but once a year I go up to check it over and see that all is
well. Lets see. The thing can crush you, electrocute you, you can
fall off, and then there is the road risk. I guess we can say it can
get you coming and going as well as a couple ways in between.

John Heckman
central Pa
1973 FC



>
> I may not have been clear: It was the coach end of the shore cord,
not the connector that is part of the coach. The pole end is a molded
connector, but the coach end is not; don't know if that is original?
>
> There is a plastic ring cinched down to the cord, just behind the
connector. I never gave it much thought, but now I wonder why that is
there. It lends itself to be the point that is grabbed to pull the
connector out, but that puts strain on the wires in the connector.
Clearly I should grab the connector body to pull it out, not the
wires.
>
> On 8/28/2008 at 8:31 PM Curt Sprenger wrote:
>
> >Don,
> >
> >Great Post...Everyone...All of us with our older coaches need to
do what
> >Don
> >just did, check our coach connectors. I'll add that we should also
check
> >our
> >shore cord coach ends.
> >
> >.On Thu, Aug 28, 2008 at 5:34 PM, Don Bradner
> >wrote:
> >
> >> I've experienced two serious electrical problems on our
current trip.
> >> I'm hoping the second problem (solved) was the cause of the
first, but I
> >> can't get my head around exactly how it would be, so I'm hoping
someone
> >with
> >> more RV electrical experience than I have will have a clue. I
will rest
> >> easier if I know what caused the first problem.
> >>
> >> The first problem I talked about here earlier, but will run
through for
> >> clarity:
> >>
> >> With a lot of draw going on, I had the 50-amp breaker on the
park pole
> >> blow, plus the main inside breakers, plus the breaker for the
inverter.
> >> Power was lost on the inverter circuit, and did not return when
breakers
> >> were turned back on with reduced draw. The inverter, a ProSine
2.0, is
> >toast
> >> - burnt components obvious when opening the case. I removed the
inverter
> >and
> >> wired input/output together for power on the inverted circuit
when on
> >park
> >> power, and bought a small charger to keep the batteries up while
parked.
> >>
> >> Xantrex sent out a new ProSine 2.0 (half-price, well out-of-
warranty)
> >and I
> >> will get it tomorrow. I've been worrying about hooking it up
without
> >knowing
> >> what caused the failure.
> >>
> >> Problem number 2: Yesterday I moved, and on arrival at a park in
Ogallala
> >> the 50-amp park breaker blew as soon as turned on. After turning
off the
> >> internal main breakers I was able to get the park breaker to
hold after
> >one
> >> more failure. The breaker was "spongy" so I wasn't sure if it
was just
> >weak.
> >> Turning on the main breakers inside worked fine.
> >>
> >> Moved again today, and the problem repeated except that nothing
would
> >make
> >> it work. In trying various things I found that my 30/50 cord
worked fine.
> >>
> >> So, I took the coach connector apart and found:
> >>
> >> Screw for black wire fell out, and was quite black on the end.
White and
> >> Red attached, but screw not tight. Green was not attached at
all - screw
> >all
> >> the way in, and wire laid across the top. Contacting case, but
who knows
> >how
> >> well.
> >>
> >> It is amazing I had power at all. I cut the end off and rebuilt
the
> >> connector, and had no problem turning on the power.
> >>
> >> It would seem to be an odd coincidence if problem one was not
caused by
> >> problem two, but since the ProSine 2.0 should in theory work
regardless
> >of
> >> what occurs on the input side I'm not sure what the connection
is.
> >Anybody
> >> have thoughts on this?
> >>
> >> Don Bradner
> >> 90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
> >> Posting today by satellite from Grand Island, Nebraska
> >> My location: http://www.bbirdmaps.com/user2.cfm?user=1
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >--
> >Curt Sprenger
> >1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
> >Anaheim Hills, CA
>