Lighting a toad?

[Ryan Wright]

Hi folks,

I'm pretty well settled on a Blue Ox baseplate, Aventa LX Tow Bar &
SMI Air Force One braking controller for my toad, unless someone here
tells me otherwise. The only thing left to consider is lighting.

Blue Ox recommends a goofy "dual lamp" deal that involves drilling my
taillights and installing secondary bulbs. I understand the logic but
think it's a silly idea and I'm not going to do it. I like all of the
perimeter lighting on my toad and I want the whole thing lit up right.
Does anyone sell a "proper" lighting harness that taps in to the
toad's electrical system? Also would be nice if the coach's alternator
could keep the toad's battery topped off while pulling.

Toad is a Hummer H2. Please, no comments about my choice of vehicle in
this forum. I've heard it all and I don't care. If you want a truck
debate, Wanderlodge_All is the appropriate place.

-Ryan
'86 PT-40 8V92

[Pete Masterson]

I have the same arrangement that you have. Blue Ox Base Plate with the Aventa LX (that had a different name when I bought it) with an SMI braking system. I also had to install an automatic transmission lube pump (from Remco) and since that installation was, I felt, "above my pay grade" -- I had Camping World do the installation.

First, the Blue Ox base plate for my car (Toyota Camry) went on with no trouble as a do it yourself project. Had I known what I was doing, it would have taken considerably less time -- but it was less than 1/2 a day, just the same. Likewise, the SMI braking system (similar to the Air Force One) went in with no serious difficulty, except that it took me a while to figure out routing of some wires/tubes that are unique to each vehicle.(The unit I have is under the driver's seat -- I believe the AF1 fits under the hood.)Again, this was about a 1/2 day project for me.

As part of the installation of the lube pump, Camping World also hooked up the wiring to the toad system. It's sort of a requirement, since there is a power wire from the coach to the lube pump -- and a signal wire from the lube pump to an alarm device by the driver, so the completeumbilicalcord needs to be wired. Diodes are used to keep the coach-supplied signals from interfering with the toad electrical system. Due to the number of wires available, the separate turn signals are combined into the tail lights on the toad -- even though the coach has the "European" style separate signal lamps. With the lube-pump wiring, the umbilical does not have enough pins to carry the 2 extra turn signal wires for the split system.

In use, I've had headaches with the isolation diodes. I've had to replace one twice -- when the diode fails, it then screws up the toad lights even when you're not connected to the coach. In retrospect, if I'd have been able to have a dual bulb set up, that would have been preferred -- and I wouldn't have dropped $200 with the auto repair place, trying to troubleshoot the lighting system (to discover the bad diode). Note that the lights _worked_ when hooked to the coach, but didn't work -- sporadically -- when the car wasn't attached. (I got a 'light bulb out' signal on the dash -- but the bulb tested OK.) Trouble shooting was not obvious, because it didn't occur to me that the diodes might have failed -- at least not they way they did. I've heard it said that the common toad/trailer lighting sold in auto parts stores use rather cheap components that are subject to failure -- so I'd have rather not had those crummy components at all.... (The second failure gave similar symptoms as the first, so I was able to figure it out on my own.)

As for your choice of toads ... I don't think someone driving a 42' long, 48,000 lb RV is in much of a position to criticize your choice. Just be aware, that there are length limitations in some states, so be sure to measure the amount of roadway you use when hooked up. Most states are OK with 65' -- but a few have a 60' maximum -- and a couple have shorter maximums, at least on some roads. My coach and toad (with tow bar connected) are a combined 62'6" in length. The Hummer H2 is almost 17' with the tire carrier on the rear. Surprisingly, that's only a foot or so longer than my Toyota (I thought they were bigger than that...), so you should be able to comply with the maximum length requirement in most states. Depending on the tow bar geometry, you might even 'make' the 60 maximum. (Maximum length rules were found in a "truckers" road atlas -- and states vary in the degree of enforcement applied to RVs.)

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42 (For Sale)

<http://www.aeonix.biz/BBforsale.html>

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Mar 12, 2009, at 2:49 PM, Ryan Wright wrote:

Hi folks,

I'm pretty well settled on a Blue Ox baseplate, Aventa LX Tow Bar &
SMI Air Force One braking controller for my toad, unless someone here
tells me otherwise. The only thing left to consider is lighting.

Blue Ox recommends a goofy "dual lamp" deal that involves drilling my
taillights and installing secondary bulbs. I understand the logic but
think it's a silly idea and I'm not going to do it. I like all of the
perimeter lighting on my toad and I want the whole thing lit up right.
Does anyone sell a "proper" lighting harness that taps in to the
toad's electrical system? Also would be nice if the coach's alternator
could keep the toad's battery topped off while pulling.

Toad is a Hummer H2. Please, no comments about my choice of vehicle in
this forum. I've heard it all and I don't care. If you want a truck
debate, Wanderlodge_All is the appropriate place.

-Ryan
'86 PT-40 8V92

[timvasqz]

My H2 eats up the battery I think it is the electric offroad aircompressor. I
wanted all the lights to light up so I hooked up a toggle to switch between the
toad and no toad. wired the bus signal to the tail lights. full tap and put the
switch in to cut off the path back to the cab of the h2. 16 splices when it is
in toad mode and you apply the brakes and an alarm sounds. I built the
baseplates with $20. worth of steel. installed a M&G brake system. thing still
back there. Building a rack for a couple of quads. to ride ontop. after I finish
the 7 foot high heel shoe for the bus.
Greg ofTim&Greg

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright wrote:
>
> Hi folks,
>
> I'm pretty well settled on a Blue Ox baseplate, Aventa LX Tow Bar &
> SMI Air Force One braking controller for my toad, unless someone here
> tells me otherwise. The only thing left to consider is lighting.
>
> Blue Ox recommends a goofy "dual lamp" deal that involves drilling my
> taillights and installing secondary bulbs. I understand the logic but
> think it's a silly idea and I'm not going to do it. I like all of the
> perimeter lighting on my toad and I want the whole thing lit up right.
> Does anyone sell a "proper" lighting harness that taps in to the
> toad's electrical system? Also would be nice if the coach's alternator
> could keep the toad's battery topped off while pulling.
>
> Toad is a Hummer H2. Please, no comments about my choice of vehicle in
> this forum. I've heard it all and I don't care. If you want a truck
> debate, Wanderlodge_All is the appropriate place.
>
> -Ryan
> '86 PT-40 8V92
>

[Ryan Wright]

Greg,

I'm thinking about powering that compressor, too. I have the air
suspension on my truck and making sure it stays inflated while towing
seems like a good idea.

You might try this Toad-Charge product to keep your battery topped up.
I'm planning on buying one. Basically just a small DC charge
controller for the truck:
http://www.bestconverter.com/Toad-Charge_c_125.html

Can you send me some pictures of your baseplates? I can't even believe
the price on these. No way I'm shelling out five hundred bucks for a
couple pieces of metal... I'll have my buddy weld some up. I can
understand the money for the unibody vehicles that need a complicated,
custom frame looking thing welded up, but the H2's "baseplate" is
nothing more than a couple of tabs and bolts!

-Ryan
'86 PT-40 8V92


On Fri, Mar 13, 2009 at 12:07 AM, timvasqz wrote:
> My H2 eats up the battery I think it is the electric offroad aircompressor.
> I wanted all the lights to light up so I hooked up a toggle to switch
> between the toad and no toad. wired the bus signal to the tail lights. full
> tap and put the switch in to cut off the path back to the cab of the h2. 16
> splices when it is in toad mode and you apply the brakes and an alarm
> sounds. I built the baseplates with $20. worth of steel. installed a M&G
> brake system. thing still back there. Building a rack for a couple of quads.
> to ride ontop. after I finish the 7 foot high heel shoe for the bus.
> Greg ofTim&Greg
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright
> wrote:
>>
>> Hi folks,
>>
>> I'm pretty well settled on a Blue Ox baseplate, Aventa LX Tow Bar &
>> SMI Air Force One braking controller for my toad, unless someone here
>> tells me otherwise. The only thing left to consider is lighting.
>>
>> Blue Ox recommends a goofy "dual lamp" deal that involves drilling my
>> taillights and installing secondary bulbs. I understand the logic but
>> think it's a silly idea and I'm not going to do it. I like all of the
>> perimeter lighting on my toad and I want the whole thing lit up right.
>> Does anyone sell a "proper" lighting harness that taps in to the
>> toad's electrical system? Also would be nice if the coach's alternator
>> could keep the toad's battery topped off while pulling.
>>
>> Toad is a Hummer H2. Please, no comments about my choice of vehicle in
>> this forum. I've heard it all and I don't care. If you want a truck
>> debate, Wanderlodge_All is the appropriate place.
>>
>> -Ryan
>> '86 PT-40 8V92
>>
>
>

[timvasqz]

The engineering is done. if it is a h2 the frame will take the place of the
compression bar that many base plates must have. as the car is being pulled the
arms of the tow bar try and pull together. that is why unibody cars require a
cross bar between mounting points. I didnt want to leave it up to my shade tree
engineering so I followed the plans to a tee. here it is.

http://www.aemfg.com/pdfs/BX4102.pdf

Greg ofTim&Greg



--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright wrote:
>
> Greg,
>
> I'm thinking about powering that compressor, too. I have the air
> suspension on my truck and making sure it stays inflated while towing
> seems like a good idea.
>
> You might try this Toad-Charge product to keep your battery topped up.
> I'm planning on buying one. Basically just a small DC charge
> controller for the truck:
> http://www.bestconverter.com/Toad-Charge_c_125.html
>
> Can you send me some pictures of your baseplates? I can't even believe
> the price on these. No way I'm shelling out five hundred bucks for a
> couple pieces of metal... I'll have my buddy weld some up. I can
> understand the money for the unibody vehicles that need a complicated,
> custom frame looking thing welded up, but the H2's "baseplate" is
> nothing more than a couple of tabs and bolts!
>
> -Ryan
> '86 PT-40 8V92
>
>
> On Fri, Mar 13, 2009 at 12:07 AM, timvasqz wrote:
> > My H2 eats up the battery I think it is the electric offroad aircompressor.
> > I wanted all the lights to light up so I hooked up a toggle to switch
> > between the toad and no toad. wired the bus signal to the tail lights. full
> > tap and put the switch in to cut off the path back to the cab of the h2. 16
> > splices when it is in toad mode and you apply the brakes and an alarm
> > sounds. I built the baseplates with $20. worth of steel. installed a M&G
> > brake system. thing still back there. Building a rack for a couple of quads.
> > to ride ontop. after I finish the 7 foot high heel shoe for the bus.
> > Greg ofTim&Greg
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright
> > wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi folks,
> >>
> >> I'm pretty well settled on a Blue Ox baseplate, Aventa LX Tow Bar &
> >> SMI Air Force One braking controller for my toad, unless someone here
> >> tells me otherwise. The only thing left to consider is lighting.
> >>
> >> Blue Ox recommends a goofy "dual lamp" deal that involves drilling my
> >> taillights and installing secondary bulbs. I understand the logic but
> >> think it's a silly idea and I'm not going to do it. I like all of the
> >> perimeter lighting on my toad and I want the whole thing lit up right.
> >> Does anyone sell a "proper" lighting harness that taps in to the
> >> toad's electrical system? Also would be nice if the coach's alternator
> >> could keep the toad's battery topped off while pulling.
> >>
> >> Toad is a Hummer H2. Please, no comments about my choice of vehicle in
> >> this forum. I've heard it all and I don't care. If you want a truck
> >> debate, Wanderlodge_All is the appropriate place.
> >>
> >> -Ryan
> >> '86 PT-40 8V92
> >>
> >
> >
>

[timvasqz]

I dont think it needs to stay inflated. It lifts the truck up 2 1/2 inches for
cleareance. the dealer told me it was an off road package and I had to pay the
3 grand for it. I just dont understand why you need an offroad package for a
hummer. non of the curbs at our local malls are that high. I pass by the truck
once in a while and can hear the compressor go off. I might have to go to a
hummer forum but dread the retort I will be tempted with there.
Greg ofTim&Greg
. --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright wrote:
>
> Greg,
>
> I'm thinking about powering that compressor, too. I have the air
> suspension on my truck and making sure it stays inflated while towing
> seems like a good idea.
>
> You might try this Toad-Charge product to keep your battery topped up.
> I'm planning on buying one. Basically just a small DC charge
> controller for the truck:
> http://www.bestconverter.com/Toad-Charge_c_125.html
>
> Can you send me some pictures of your baseplates? I can't even believe
> the price on these. No way I'm shelling out five hundred bucks for a
> couple pieces of metal... I'll have my buddy weld some up. I can
> understand the money for the unibody vehicles that need a complicated,
> custom frame looking thing welded up, but the H2's "baseplate" is
> nothing more than a couple of tabs and bolts!
>
> -Ryan
> '86 PT-40 8V92
>
>
> On Fri, Mar 13, 2009 at 12:07 AM, timvasqz wrote:
> > My H2 eats up the battery I think it is the electric offroad aircompressor.
> > I wanted all the lights to light up so I hooked up a toggle to switch
> > between the toad and no toad. wired the bus signal to the tail lights. full
> > tap and put the switch in to cut off the path back to the cab of the h2. 16
> > splices when it is in toad mode and you apply the brakes and an alarm
> > sounds. I built the baseplates with $20. worth of steel. installed a M&G
> > brake system. thing still back there. Building a rack for a couple of quads.
> > to ride ontop. after I finish the 7 foot high heel shoe for the bus.
> > Greg ofTim&Greg
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright
> > wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi folks,
> >>
> >> I'm pretty well settled on a Blue Ox baseplate, Aventa LX Tow Bar &
> >> SMI Air Force One braking controller for my toad, unless someone here
> >> tells me otherwise. The only thing left to consider is lighting.
> >>
> >> Blue Ox recommends a goofy "dual lamp" deal that involves drilling my
> >> taillights and installing secondary bulbs. I understand the logic but
> >> think it's a silly idea and I'm not going to do it. I like all of the
> >> perimeter lighting on my toad and I want the whole thing lit up right.
> >> Does anyone sell a "proper" lighting harness that taps in to the
> >> toad's electrical system? Also would be nice if the coach's alternator
> >> could keep the toad's battery topped off while pulling.
> >>
> >> Toad is a Hummer H2. Please, no comments about my choice of vehicle in
> >> this forum. I've heard it all and I don't care. If you want a truck
> >> debate, Wanderlodge_All is the appropriate place.
> >>
> >> -Ryan
> >> '86 PT-40 8V92
> >>
> >
> >
>