Cross reference for Hydraulic fan filter o-ring

[sfedeli3]

Has anyone ever been able to cross reference a match for the Hi Pressure O-ring
that is used on the hydraulic fan canister filter? The bluebird part number that
I have is BB #2137024.

Shane Fedeli
85PT40
Hershey, PA

[Fred Hulse]

Shane

I think you are looking for the sealing ring for the canister that holds the hydraulic filter.

If so in the back of the WIX/Napa filter catalog are some gaskets/o-rings listed back ther by dimension,not having mine apart and measuring as best I could # 15114 may be what you need but there are others around the same size, but smaller or larger.

I can't see who made that tank to get more information.

Fred & Jeanne Hulse
Morristown Arizona
1997 Wanderlodge WLWB41

[Eric Perplies]

Hello Shane. Coach Craft in Columbus, GA lost mine. BB told me they didn't
have a part number. I couldn't find a correct o-ring. I ended up making my own
o-rings. After 2 years of trying different diameter 0-rings, I gave up on
trying to get a o-ring to work. It almost works, but not quite. As you
probably know, the cross section of the proper seal looks like a mountain.
Glenn Rogers at BB eventually dug up the right part. Sorry I can't be of more
help.

If I had to use an o-ring again I would supplement the fit with a tube of
silicone gasket sealer. Not an elegant solution but may work.

Good luck. If you do find the manufacturer of the canister or a source for the
gasket please broadcast it.

Happy trails,

Eric Perplies
currently in New Haven, IN
96' 42' WBWL

[sfedeli3]

Fred, Hugh and others who replied-- thanks very much for the helpful hints. Tom
Sorrentino and I decided to do the job yesterday to see how it all went together
and learn what we could. For those of you who have the mid-80's PT chassis and
Hydraulic fan setup, the filter gasket that we're talking about sits in a
valley, just above the threads, on the top of the long, spin-on bowl that is
mounted to the frame near the fan. The bowl is/was made by Parker Filtration.
Tom has an '87 with an 8V92 and I have an '85 with a 6V92. Aside from being in
different locations, the bowl and filter assemblies were identical. Tom's is
located in the tag axle wheel well- Mine was located behind the fan motor and a
little higher up on the frame rail. The filter bowl is made of an aluminum alloy
and has fine threads that could easily be damaged if you aren't careful when you
re-attach the filter bowl. The O-Ring on mine appeared to be original. Tom's was
changed by a PO in 1997. Both o-rings were in decent shape and we re-used them.
I'm going to get new ones from Bluebird of Pittsburgh. They had 3 new o-rings on
the shelf. When they arrive, I will take one to a hydraulic shop in Harrisburg
and see if they can match it up in the Parker-Hannifin catalog. When I get some
cross-reference numbers, I'll post them here and on the other Wanderlodge sites.

Shane Fedeli
85PT40
Hershey, PA

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hulse" wrote:
>
> Shane
> I think you are looking for the sealing ring for the canister that holds the
hydraulic filter.
> If so in the back of the WIX/Napa filter catalog are some gaskets/o-rings
listed back ther by dimension,not having mine apart and measuring as best I
could # 15114 may be what you need but there are others around the same size,
but smaller or larger.
> I can't see who made that tank to get more information.
> Fred & Jeanne Hulse
> Morristown Arizona
> 1997 Wanderlodge WLWB41
>

[Gregory OConnor]

when I refit unions that require orings and gaskets I always coat the
gasket-ring with grease. that way when you torque them down they wont stretch ,
only compress. one problem I did notice was if you put too much grease in a
track for the oring it can blow out the ring while it compresses. I wonder if
oil or soap is a better solution. the hard part about placing orings is when
they are to be prefitted around a shaft and it is hard to tell that you did not
twist them while passing over threads of the shaft. twisting them distorts the
rubber and will cause the ring to fail (I have learned)

On aluminum pieces the threads seem to always be fine. I wonder if that is to
reduce the damage to the threads from over tightening. I have a Mustang
skidsteer that is under warranty contract and serviced by the dealer on site.
The tech recently replaced the two hydrolic filters which were also mounted on
alumnium. Without explanation the tech directed me to only tighten the filters
to stop any chance for leaking and draw a reference line on the filter to the
mounting base. one filter is the return and one under pressure. both are one
piece throw away.

On some hydrolic charge pumps you can find an inline steel filter fitted in the
out port of the pump.
http://www.tallonhydraulics.com/store/im...0140-4.jpg
not that simple but they look like a mini catalitic converter on the inside
and capture the big pump damage particles from getting to the motors and rams
(fan and steering control). They are servicable. problem with them is there is
no bypass and when they clog they will strain the engin rpm. On a tractor the
pump is a major % of the HP consumed and strain is a clue. On a minor hp
consumable charge pump it will take out the pump. On some of the old stuff I
buy I have noticed this filter shade tree installed after market and I always
just remove them. They are often installed after a system failure when an
unserviced hydraulic filter plugged and fluid went bypass crapping out all the
hydraulic appliances. Problem with this filter on a small charge pump like the
fan or a dumptruck liftram pump is the HP to run is minimal compared to engine
output and operator has no clue of an issue. the fluid sits in the running pump
and heats up untill it cooks the pump.

The point you make with the cross threading danger with the filter is good.
many of the mounting bases for filters are unique to the application. It is best
to look for the trajectory of the filter prior to removal to see the angle.
when they are way off angle it is easy to notice and refit. When they are only
slightly off assumed angle is when you end up fumbling and in danger of cross
threading (I have learned).

Greg ofTim&Greg
94ptca
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "sfedeli3" <sfedeli3@...> wrote:
>
> Fred, Hugh and others who replied-- thanks very much for the helpful hints.
Tom Sorrentino and I decided to do the job yesterday to see how it all went
together and learn what we could. For those of you who have the mid-80's PT
chassis and Hydraulic fan setup, the filter gasket that we're talking about sits
in a valley, just above the threads, on the top of the long, spin-on bowl that
is mounted to the frame near the fan. The bowl is/was made by Parker Filtration.
Tom has an '87 with an 8V92 and I have an '85 with a 6V92. Aside from being in
different locations, the bowl and filter assemblies were identical. Tom's is
located in the tag axle wheel well- Mine was located behind the fan motor and a
little higher up on the frame rail. The filter bowl is made of an aluminum alloy
and has fine threads that could easily be damaged if you aren't careful when you
re-attach the filter bowl. The O-Ring on mine appeared to be original. Tom's was
changed by a PO in 1997. Both o-rings were in decent shape and we re-used them.
I'm going to get new ones from Bluebird of Pittsburgh. They had 3 new o-rings on
the shelf. When they arrive, I will take one to a hydraulic shop in Harrisburg
and see if they can match it up in the Parker-Hannifin catalog. When I get some
cross-reference numbers, I'll post them here and on the other Wanderlodge sites.
>
> Shane Fedeli
> 85PT40
> Hershey, PA
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hulse" wrote:
> >
> > Shane
> > I think you are looking for the sealing ring for the canister that holds the
hydraulic filter.
> > If so in the back of the WIX/Napa filter catalog are some gaskets/o-rings
listed back ther by dimension,not having mine apart and measuring as best I
could # 15114 may be what you need but there are others around the same size,
but smaller or larger.
> > I can't see who made that tank to get more information.
> > Fred & Jeanne Hulse
> > Morristown Arizona
> > 1997 Wanderlodge WLWB41
> >
>

[p_a_lazar]

Greg,

Your comment about using grease on O rings (in moderation) is good, but I would
suggest strongly that you use silicone grease as not all O rings are nitrile and
there can be a chemical reaction between petroleum based products and some
rubber compounds (also, speaking from experience )

Paul
97wb43
Silver Spring, MD

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor" wrote:
>
> when I refit unions that require orings and gaskets I always coat the
gasket-ring with grease. that way when you torque them down they wont stretch ,
only compress. one problem I did notice was if you put too much grease in a
track for the oring it can blow out the ring while it compresses. I wonder if
oil or soap is a better solution. the hard part about placing orings is when
they are to be prefitted around a shaft and it is hard to tell that you did not
twist them while passing over threads of the shaft. twisting them distorts the
rubber and will cause the ring to fail (I have learned)
>
> On aluminum pieces the threads seem to always be fine. I wonder if that is to
reduce the damage to the threads from over tightening. I have a Mustang
skidsteer that is under warranty contract and serviced by the dealer on site.
The tech recently replaced the two hydrolic filters which were also mounted on
alumnium. Without explanation the tech directed me to only tighten the filters
to stop any chance for leaking and draw a reference line on the filter to the
mounting base. one filter is the return and one under pressure. both are one
piece throw away.
>
> On some hydrolic charge pumps you can find an inline steel filter fitted in
the out port of the pump.
> http://www.tallonhydraulics.com/store/im...0140-4.jpg
> not that simple but they look like a mini catalitic converter on the inside
and capture the big pump damage particles from getting to the motors and rams
(fan and steering control). They are servicable. problem with them is there is
no bypass and when they clog they will strain the engin rpm. On a tractor the
pump is a major % of the HP consumed and strain is a clue. On a minor hp
consumable charge pump it will take out the pump. On some of the old stuff I
buy I have noticed this filter shade tree installed after market and I always
just remove them. They are often installed after a system failure when an
unserviced hydraulic filter plugged and fluid went bypass crapping out all the
hydraulic appliances. Problem with this filter on a small charge pump like the
fan or a dumptruck liftram pump is the HP to run is minimal compared to engine
output and operator has no clue of an issue. the fluid sits in the running pump
and heats up untill it cooks the pump.
>
> The point you make with the cross threading danger with the filter is good.
many of the mounting bases for filters are unique to the application. It is best
to look for the trajectory of the filter prior to removal to see the angle.
when they are way off angle it is easy to notice and refit. When they are only
slightly off assumed angle is when you end up fumbling and in danger of cross
threading (I have learned).
>
> Greg ofTim&Greg
> 94ptca
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "sfedeli3" <sfedeli3@> wrote:
> >
> > Fred, Hugh and others who replied-- thanks very much for the helpful hints.
Tom Sorrentino and I decided to do the job yesterday to see how it all went
together and learn what we could. For those of you who have the mid-80's PT
chassis and Hydraulic fan setup, the filter gasket that we're talking about sits
in a valley, just above the threads, on the top of the long, spin-on bowl that
is mounted to the frame near the fan. The bowl is/was made by Parker Filtration.
Tom has an '87 with an 8V92 and I have an '85 with a 6V92. Aside from being in
different locations, the bowl and filter assemblies were identical. Tom's is
located in the tag axle wheel well- Mine was located behind the fan motor and a
little higher up on the frame rail. The filter bowl is made of an aluminum alloy
and has fine threads that could easily be damaged if you aren't careful when you
re-attach the filter bowl. The O-Ring on mine appeared to be original. Tom's was
changed by a PO in 1997. Both o-rings were in decent shape and we re-used them.
I'm going to get new ones from Bluebird of Pittsburgh. They had 3 new o-rings on
the shelf. When they arrive, I will take one to a hydraulic shop in Harrisburg
and see if they can match it up in the Parker-Hannifin catalog. When I get some
cross-reference numbers, I'll post them here and on the other Wanderlodge sites.
> >
> > Shane Fedeli
> > 85PT40
> > Hershey, PA
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hulse" wrote:
> > >
> > > Shane
> > > I think you are looking for the sealing ring for the canister that holds
the hydraulic filter.
> > > If so in the back of the WIX/Napa filter catalog are some gaskets/o-rings
listed back ther by dimension,not having mine apart and measuring as best I
could # 15114 may be what you need but there are others around the same size,
but smaller or larger.
> > > I can't see who made that tank to get more information.
> > > Fred & Jeanne Hulse
> > > Morristown Arizona
> > > 1997 Wanderlodge WLWB41
> > >
> >
>

[Stephen Birtles]

Dow 111


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "p_a_lazar" wrote:
>
> Greg,
>
> Your comment about using grease on O rings (in moderation) is good, but I
would suggest strongly that you use silicone grease as not all O rings are
nitrile and there can be a chemical reaction between petroleum based products
and some rubber compounds (also, speaking from experience )
>
> Paul
> 97wb43
> Silver Spring, MD
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor" wrote:
> >
> > when I refit unions that require orings and gaskets I always coat the
gasket-ring with grease. that way when you torque them down they wont stretch ,
only compress. one problem I did notice was if you put too much grease in a
track for the oring it can blow out the ring while it compresses. I wonder if
oil or soap is a better solution. the hard part about placing orings is when
they are to be prefitted around a shaft and it is hard to tell that you did not
twist them while passing over threads of the shaft. twisting them distorts the
rubber and will cause the ring to fail (I have learned)
> >
> > On aluminum pieces the threads seem to always be fine. I wonder if that is
to reduce the damage to the threads from over tightening. I have a Mustang
skidsteer that is under warranty contract and serviced by the dealer on site.
The tech recently replaced the two hydrolic filters which were also mounted on
alumnium. Without explanation the tech directed me to only tighten the filters
to stop any chance for leaking and draw a reference line on the filter to the
mounting base. one filter is the return and one under pressure. both are one
piece throw away.
> >
> > On some hydrolic charge pumps you can find an inline steel filter fitted in
the out port of the pump.
> > http://www.tallonhydraulics.com/store/im...0140-4.jpg
> > not that simple but they look like a mini catalitic converter on the
inside and capture the big pump damage particles from getting to the motors and
rams (fan and steering control). They are servicable. problem with them is
there is no bypass and when they clog they will strain the engin rpm. On a
tractor the pump is a major % of the HP consumed and strain is a clue. On a
minor hp consumable charge pump it will take out the pump. On some of the old
stuff I buy I have noticed this filter shade tree installed after market and I
always just remove them. They are often installed after a system failure when an
unserviced hydraulic filter plugged and fluid went bypass crapping out all the
hydraulic appliances. Problem with this filter on a small charge pump like the
fan or a dumptruck liftram pump is the HP to run is minimal compared to engine
output and operator has no clue of an issue. the fluid sits in the running pump
and heats up untill it cooks the pump.
> >
> > The point you make with the cross threading danger with the filter is
good. many of the mounting bases for filters are unique to the application. It
is best to look for the trajectory of the filter prior to removal to see the
angle. when they are way off angle it is easy to notice and refit. When they
are only slightly off assumed angle is when you end up fumbling and in danger of
cross threading (I have learned).
> >
> > Greg ofTim&Greg
> > 94ptca
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "sfedeli3" <sfedeli3@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Fred, Hugh and others who replied-- thanks very much for the helpful
hints. Tom Sorrentino and I decided to do the job yesterday to see how it all
went together and learn what we could. For those of you who have the mid-80's PT
chassis and Hydraulic fan setup, the filter gasket that we're talking about sits
in a valley, just above the threads, on the top of the long, spin-on bowl that
is mounted to the frame near the fan. The bowl is/was made by Parker Filtration.
Tom has an '87 with an 8V92 and I have an '85 with a 6V92. Aside from being in
different locations, the bowl and filter assemblies were identical. Tom's is
located in the tag axle wheel well- Mine was located behind the fan motor and a
little higher up on the frame rail. The filter bowl is made of an aluminum alloy
and has fine threads that could easily be damaged if you aren't careful when you
re-attach the filter bowl. The O-Ring on mine appeared to be original. Tom's was
changed by a PO in 1997. Both o-rings were in decent shape and we re-used them.
I'm going to get new ones from Bluebird of Pittsburgh. They had 3 new o-rings on
the shelf. When they arrive, I will take one to a hydraulic shop in Harrisburg
and see if they can match it up in the Parker-Hannifin catalog. When I get some
cross-reference numbers, I'll post them here and on the other Wanderlodge sites.
> > >
> > > Shane Fedeli
> > > 85PT40
> > > Hershey, PA
> > >
> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hulse" wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Shane
> > > > I think you are looking for the sealing ring for the canister that holds
the hydraulic filter.
> > > > If so in the back of the WIX/Napa filter catalog are some
gaskets/o-rings listed back ther by dimension,not having mine apart and
measuring as best I could # 15114 may be what you need but there are others
around the same size, but smaller or larger.
> > > > I can't see who made that tank to get more information.
> > > > Fred & Jeanne Hulse
> > > > Morristown Arizona
> > > > 1997 Wanderlodge WLWB41
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

[Ernie Ekberg]

Stephen, what is Dow 111 ??? Ernie Ekberg 83PT40 Wanderlodge Weatherford, Tx 817-475-3991 http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/erni...gandrepair --- On Sun, 8/16/09, Stephen Birtles wrote: From: Stephen Birtles Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Cross reference for Hydraulic fan filter o-ring To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, August 16, 2009, 1:18 PM Dow 111 --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "p_a_lazar" wrote: > > Greg, > > Your comment about using grease on O rings (in moderation) is good, but I would suggest strongly that you use silicone grease as not all O rings are nitrile and there can be a chemical reaction between petroleum based products and some rubber compounds (also, speaking from experience ) > > Paul > 97wb43 > Silver Spring, MD > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "Gregory OConnor" wrote: > > > > when I refit unions that require orings and gaskets I always coat the gasket-ring with grease. that way when you torque them down they wont stretch , only compress. one problem I did notice was if you put too much grease in a track for the oring it can blow out the ring while it compresses. I wonder if oil or soap is a better solution. the hard part about placing orings is when they are to be prefitted around a shaft and it is hard to tell that you did not twist them while passing over threads of the shaft. twisting them distorts the rubber and will cause the ring to fail (I have learned) > > > > On aluminum pieces the threads seem to always be fine. I wonder if that is to reduce the damage to the threads from over tightening. I have a Mustang skidsteer that is under warranty contract and serviced by the dealer on site. The tech recently replaced the two hydrolic filters which were also mounted on alumnium. Without explanation the tech directed me to only tighten the filters to stop any chance for leaking and draw a reference line on the filter to the mounting base. one filter is the return and one under pressure. both are one piece throw away. > > > > On some hydrolic charge pumps you can find an inline steel filter fitted in the out port of the pump. > > http://www.tallonhy draulics. com/store/ images/100_ 0140-4.jpg > > not that simple but they look like a mini catalitic converter on the inside and capture the big pump damage particles from getting to the motors and rams (fan and steering control). They are servicable. problem with them is there is no bypass and when they clog they will strain the engin rpm. On a tractor the pump is a major % of the HP consumed and strain is a clue. On a minor hp consumable charge pump it will take out the pump. On some of the old stuff I buy I have noticed this filter shade tree installed after market and I always just remove them. They are often installed after a system failure when an unserviced hydraulic filter plugged and fluid went bypass crapping out all the hydraulic appliances. Problem with this filter on a small charge pump like the fan or a dumptruck liftram pump is the HP to run is minimal compared to engine output and operator has no clue of an issue. the fluid sits in the running pump and heats up untill it cooks the pump. > > > > The point you make with the cross threading danger with the filter is good. many of the mounting bases for filters are unique to the application. It is best to look for the trajectory of the filter prior to removal to see the angle. when they are way off angle it is easy to notice and refit. When they are only slightly off assumed angle is when you end up fumbling and in danger of cross threading (I have learned). > > > > Greg ofTim&Greg > > 94ptca > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "sfedeli3" <sfedeli3@> wrote: > > > > > > Fred, Hugh and others who replied-- thanks very much for the helpful hints. Tom Sorrentino and I decided to do the job yesterday to see how it all went together and learn what we could. For those of you who have the mid-80's PT chassis and Hydraulic fan setup, the filter gasket that we're talking about sits in a valley, just above the threads, on the top of the long, spin-on bowl that is mounted to the frame near the fan. The bowl is/was made by Parker Filtration. Tom has an '87 with an 8V92 and I have an '85 with a 6V92. Aside from being in different locations, the bowl and filter assemblies were identical. Tom's is located in the tag axle wheel well- Mine was located behind the fan motor and a little higher up on the frame rail. The filter bowl is made of an aluminum alloy and has fine threads that could easily be damaged if you aren't careful when you re-attach the filter bowl. The O-Ring on mine appeared to be original. Tom's was changed by a PO in 1997. Both o-rings were in decent shape and we re-used them. I'm going to get new ones from Bluebird of Pittsburgh. They had 3 new o-rings on the shelf. When they arrive, I will take one to a hydraulic shop in Harrisburg and see if they can match it up in the Parker-Hannifin catalog. When I get some cross-reference numbers, I'll post them here and on the other Wanderlodge sites. > > > > > > Shane Fedeli > > > 85PT40 > > > Hershey, PA > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "Fred Hulse" wrote: > > > > > > > > Shane > > > > I think you are looking for the sealing ring for the canister that holds the hydraulic filter. > > > > If so in the back of the WIX/Napa filter catalog are some gaskets/o-rings listed back ther by dimension,not having mine apart and measuring as best I could # 15114 may be what you need but there are others around the same size, but smaller or larger. > > > > I can't see who made that tank to get more information. > > > > Fred & Jeanne Hulse > > > > Morristown Arizona > > > > 1997 Wanderlodge WLWB41 > > > > > > > > > >

[Stephen Birtles]

a very good silicone grease we use it on valves
Stephen 77fc35



--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Ernie Ekberg wrote:
>
> Stephen, what is Dow 111 ???
>
>
> Ernie Ekberg
> 83PT40
> Wanderlodge
> Weatherford, Tx 817-475-3991
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/erni...gandrepair
>
> --- On Sun, 8/16/09, Stephen Birtles wrote:
>
>
> From: Stephen Birtles
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Cross reference for Hydraulic fan filter
o-ring
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sunday, August 16, 2009, 1:18 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Dow 111
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "p_a_lazar" wrote:
> >
> > Greg,
> >
> > Your comment about using grease on O rings (in moderation) is good, but I
would suggest strongly that you use silicone grease as not all O rings are
nitrile and there can be a chemical reaction between petroleum based products
and some rubber compounds (also, speaking from experience )
> >
> > Paul
> > 97wb43
> > Silver Spring, MD
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "Gregory OConnor" wrote:
> > >
> > > when I refit unions that require orings and gaskets I always coat the
gasket-ring with grease. that way when you torque them down they wont stretch ,
only compress. one problem I did notice was if you put too much grease in a
track for the oring it can blow out the ring while it compresses. I wonder if
oil or soap is a better solution. the hard part about placing orings is when
they are to be prefitted around a shaft and it is hard to tell that you did not
twist them while passing over threads of the shaft. twisting them distorts the
rubber and will cause the ring to fail (I have learned)
> > >
> > > On aluminum pieces the threads seem to always be fine. I wonder if that is
to reduce the damage to the threads from over tightening. I have a Mustang
skidsteer that is under warranty contract and serviced by the dealer on site.
The tech recently replaced the two hydrolic filters which were also mounted on
alumnium. Without explanation the tech directed me to only tighten the filters
to stop any chance for leaking and draw a reference line on the filter to the
mounting base. one filter is the return and one under pressure. both are one
piece throw away.
> > >
> > > On some hydrolic charge pumps you can find an inline steel filter fitted
in the out port of the pump.
> > > http://www.tallonhy draulics. com/store/ images/100_ 0140-4.jpg
> > > not that simple but they look like a mini catalitic converter on the
inside and capture the big pump damage particles from getting to the motors and
rams (fan and steering control). They are servicable. problem with them is there
is no bypass and when they clog they will strain the engin rpm. On a tractor the
pump is a major % of the HP consumed and strain is a clue. On a minor hp
consumable charge pump it will take out the pump. On some of the old stuff I buy
I have noticed this filter shade tree installed after market and I always just
remove them. They are often installed after a system failure when an unserviced
hydraulic filter plugged and fluid went bypass crapping out all the hydraulic
appliances. Problem with this filter on a small charge pump like the fan or a
dumptruck liftram pump is the HP to run is minimal compared to engine output and
operator has no clue of an issue. the fluid sits in the running pump and heats
up untill it cooks the
> pump.
> > >
> > > The point you make with the cross threading danger with the filter is
good. many of the mounting bases for filters are unique to the application. It
is best to look for the trajectory of the filter prior to removal to see the
angle. when they are way off angle it is easy to notice and refit. When they are
only slightly off assumed angle is when you end up fumbling and in danger of
cross threading (I have learned).
> > >
> > > Greg ofTim&Greg
> > > 94ptca
> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "sfedeli3" <sfedeli3@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Fred, Hugh and others who replied-- thanks very much for the helpful
hints. Tom Sorrentino and I decided to do the job yesterday to see how it all
went together and learn what we could. For those of you who have the mid-80's PT
chassis and Hydraulic fan setup, the filter gasket that we're talking about sits
in a valley, just above the threads, on the top of the long, spin-on bowl that
is mounted to the frame near the fan. The bowl is/was made by Parker Filtration.
Tom has an '87 with an 8V92 and I have an '85 with a 6V92. Aside from being in
different locations, the bowl and filter assemblies were identical. Tom's is
located in the tag axle wheel well- Mine was located behind the fan motor and a
little higher up on the frame rail. The filter bowl is made of an aluminum alloy
and has fine threads that could easily be damaged if you aren't careful when you
re-attach the filter bowl. The O-Ring on mine appeared to be original. Tom's was
changed by a
> PO in 1997. Both o-rings were in decent shape and we re-used them. I'm going
to get new ones from Bluebird of Pittsburgh. They had 3 new o-rings on the
shelf. When they arrive, I will take one to a hydraulic shop in Harrisburg and
see if they can match it up in the Parker-Hannifin catalog. When I get some
cross-reference numbers, I'll post them here and on the other Wanderlodge sites.
> > > >
> > > > Shane Fedeli
> > > > 85PT40
> > > > Hershey, PA
> > > >
> > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "Fred Hulse" wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Shane
> > > > > I think you are looking for the sealing ring for the canister that
holds the hydraulic filter.
> > > > > If so in the back of the WIX/Napa filter catalog are some
gaskets/o-rings listed back ther by dimension,not having mine apart and
measuring as best I could # 15114 may be what you need but there are others
around the same size, but smaller or larger.
> > > > > I can't see who made that tank to get more information.
> > > > > Fred & Jeanne Hulse
> > > > > Morristown Arizona
> > > > > 1997 Wanderlodge WLWB41
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

[Ernie Ekberg]

thanks, where would you get that? Ernie Ekberg 83PT40 Wanderlodge Weatherford, Tx 817-475-3991 http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/erni...gandrepair --- On Sun, 8/16/09, Stephen Birtles wrote: From: Stephen Birtles Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Cross reference for Hydraulic fan filter o-ring To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, August 16, 2009, 2:14 PM a very good silicone grease we use it on valves Stephen 77fc35 --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, Ernie Ekberg wrote: > > Stephen, what is Dow 111 ??? > > > Ernie Ekberg > 83PT40 > Wanderlodge > Weatherford, Tx 817-475-3991 > http://autos. groups.yahoo. com/group/ erniesremodeling andrepair > > --- On Sun, 8/16/09, Stephen Birtles wrote: > > > From: Stephen Birtles > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Cross reference for Hydraulic fan filter o-ring > To: WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com > Date: Sunday, August 16, 2009, 1:18 PM > > > > > > > Dow 111 > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "p_a_lazar" wrote: > > > > Greg, > > > > Your comment about using grease on O rings (in moderation) is good, but I would suggest strongly that you use silicone grease as not all O rings are nitrile and there can be a chemical reaction between petroleum based products and some rubber compounds (also, speaking from experience ) > > > > Paul > > 97wb43 > > Silver Spring, MD > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "Gregory OConnor" wrote: > > > > > > when I refit unions that require orings and gaskets I always coat the gasket-ring with grease. that way when you torque them down they wont stretch , only compress. one problem I did notice was if you put too much grease in a track for the oring it can blow out the ring while it compresses. I wonder if oil or soap is a better solution. the hard part about placing orings is when they are to be prefitted around a shaft and it is hard to tell that you did not twist them while passing over threads of the shaft. twisting them distorts the rubber and will cause the ring to fail (I have learned) > > > > > > On aluminum pieces the threads seem to always be fine. I wonder if that is to reduce the damage to the threads from over tightening. I have a Mustang skidsteer that is under warranty contract and serviced by the dealer on site. The tech recently replaced the two hydrolic filters which were also mounted on alumnium. Without explanation the tech directed me to only tighten the filters to stop any chance for leaking and draw a reference line on the filter to the mounting base. one filter is the return and one under pressure. both are one piece throw away. > > > > > > On some hydrolic charge pumps you can find an inline steel filter fitted in the out port of the pump. > > > http://www.tallonhy draulics. com/store/ images/100_ 0140-4.jpg > > > not that simple but they look like a mini catalitic converter on the inside and capture the big pump damage particles from getting to the motors and rams (fan and steering control). They are servicable. problem with them is there is no bypass and when they clog they will strain the engin rpm. On a tractor the pump is a major % of the HP consumed and strain is a clue. On a minor hp consumable charge pump it will take out the pump. On some of the old stuff I buy I have noticed this filter shade tree installed after market and I always just remove them. They are often installed after a system failure when an unserviced hydraulic filter plugged and fluid went bypass crapping out all the hydraulic appliances. Problem with this filter on a small charge pump like the fan or a dumptruck liftram pump is the HP to run is minimal compared to engine output and operator has no clue of an issue. the fluid sits in the running pump and heats up untill it cooks the > pump. > > > > > > The point you make with the cross threading danger with the filter is good. many of the mounting bases for filters are unique to the application. It is best to look for the trajectory of the filter prior to removal to see the angle. when they are way off angle it is easy to notice and refit. When they are only slightly off assumed angle is when you end up fumbling and in danger of cross threading (I have learned). > > > > > > Greg ofTim&Greg > > > 94ptca > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "sfedeli3" <sfedeli3@> wrote: > > > > > > > > Fred, Hugh and others who replied-- thanks very much for the helpful hints. Tom Sorrentino and I decided to do the job yesterday to see how it all went together and learn what we could. For those of you who have the mid-80's PT chassis and Hydraulic fan setup, the filter gasket that we're talking about sits in a valley, just above the threads, on the top of the long, spin-on bowl that is mounted to the frame near the fan. The bowl is/was made by Parker Filtration. Tom has an '87 with an 8V92 and I have an '85 with a 6V92. Aside from being in different locations, the bowl and filter assemblies were identical. Tom's is located in the tag axle wheel well- Mine was located behind the fan motor and a little higher up on the frame rail. The filter bowl is made of an aluminum alloy and has fine threads that could easily be damaged if you aren't careful when you re-attach the filter bowl. The O-Ring on mine appeared to be original. Tom's was changed by a > PO in 1997. Both o-rings were in decent shape and we re-used them. I'm going to get new ones from Bluebird of Pittsburgh. They had 3 new o-rings on the shelf. When they arrive, I will take one to a hydraulic shop in Harrisburg and see if they can match it up in the Parker-Hannifin catalog. When I get some cross-reference numbers, I'll post them here and on the other Wanderlodge sites. > > > > > > > > Shane Fedeli > > > > 85PT40 > > > > Hershey, PA > > > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "Fred Hulse" wrote: > > > > > > > > > > Shane > > > > > I think you are looking for the sealing ring for the canister that holds the hydraulic filter. > > > > > If so in the back of the WIX/Napa filter catalog are some gaskets/o-rings listed back ther by dimension,not having mine apart and measuring as best I could # 15114 may be what you need but there are others around the same size, but smaller or larger. > > > > > I can't see who made that tank to get more information. > > > > > Fred & Jeanne Hulse > > > > > Morristown Arizona > > > > > 1997 Wanderlodge WLWB41 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >