Coach Batts overcharging

[Ralph L. Fullenwider]

Glad to hear it is resolved. A problem like this one is not an easy find as
it can be so many things. Excellent find, Fred.

Safe travels,

Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
"84FC35 "Ruff Diamond"
Duncan, Oklahoma

At 06:09 AM 11/25/2010 -0700, you wrote:


>Hi Folks,
>We have resolved our problem with coach overcharging the batteries.
>The "auxillary battery solenoid" was the fault of the issue.This solenoid
>is located adjacent to the battery selector switch on the "firewall curb
>side" just above the battery bank.
>The part I replaced was not identical in appearance to the original,but
>had the same purpose.A rather easy change for anyone to get done.
>We used a universal continuous duty marine insulated base solenoid
>available at any parts store.The part number on the one I used was a Cole
>Hersee 24117 costing about $40.00. Also a number 24059 is the same
>solenoid without the plastic coating and much less money but still the
>same quality.
>In order to use these solenoids,the small wire terminals need to be
>replaced to fit the larger diameter studs,
> (10-32 instead of 8-32)
>I am happy to get this issue done and will be able to get over to Southern
>California late next week.
>Thank you all for the help and ideas you shared in order for me to
>eliminate many circumstances.
>
>
>Fred & Jeanne Hulse
>Morristown,Arizona
>97 WLWB41

[Ron Thompson]

Thanks for posting the resolution to your overcharging problem. I will certainly remember your fix and have filed your resolution in my RV repair problem folder. You never know when I might get the same problem. Was the problem that it would not close or was it that it was closed all the time. Important to understand the problem. Ron Thompson -Waller, Tx. 1995 WLWB 42' (cockyfox@...) --- On Thu, 11/25/10, Ralph L. Fullenwider wrote: From: Ralph L. Fullenwider Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Coach Batts overcharging To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Date: Thursday, November 25, 2010, 9:26 AM Glad to hear it is resolved. A problem like this one is not an easy find as it can be so many things. Excellent find, Fred. Safe travels, Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider "84FC35 "Ruff Diamond" Duncan, Oklahoma At 06:09 AM 11/25/2010 -0700, you wrote: >Hi Folks, >We have resolved our problem with coach overcharging the batteries. >The "auxillary battery solenoid" was the fault of the issue.This solenoid >is located adjacent to the battery selector switch on the "firewall curb >side" just above the battery bank. >The part I replaced was not identical in appearance to the original,but >had the same purpose.A rather easy change for anyone to get done. >We used a universal continuous duty marine insulated base solenoid >available at any parts store.The part number on the one I used was a Cole >Hersee 24117 costing about $40.00. Also a number 24059 is the same >solenoid without the plastic coating and much less money but still the >same quality. >In order to use these solenoids,the small wire terminals need to be >replaced to fit the larger diameter studs, > (10-32 instead of 8-32) >I am happy to get this issue done and will be able to get over to Southern >California late next week. >Thank you all for the help and ideas you shared in order for me to >eliminate many circumstances. > > >Fred & Jeanne Hulse >Morristown,Arizona >97 WLWB41

[Fred Hulse]

Thanks for your aid, Ralph,

This is the kind of episode that reminds us of our friends here that are so willing to help and advise in any instance.

My information bank just grew another volume!!

Fred

[Fred Hulse]



Hi Ron,

To simplify the issue,

The ammeter on the dash pegged to 300+ amps

The voltmeter for the coach pegged to 25+ volts

The voltmeter for the engine showed 12+ volts.

After the fact, I conclude that the solenoid was sending all the power from the alternator to the coach bank of batteries and allowing nothing to the engine batteries.

After testing I found my engine batteries were all but dead.

This also did not allow the jumper feature to operate.

Thank you Ron for your input.

Fred & Jeanne Hulse
Morristown,Arizona
97 WLWB41

[freewill2008]

Fred - this is where geography and a very different coach from mine limit the
ability to help. I can give some general ideas.

One thought: Brand new components can be bad. Have you put a volt meter right
on the alternator + terminal? What does it read? If it is 20+ volts, look for
another regulator.

Unless you measure 20+ volts right at the alternator, the new regulator is doing
its job. In a 12V system, the charge voltage might be as high as 14.5, and the
resting battery voltage can be as high as 12.8. You you must ask yourself where
20+ volts comes from.

As I understand it, you have house and engine battery sets. Each battery set
should be grounded to the chassis, as are the coach components. There is a
total voltage potential of 25+ volts between the 2 battery banks. If a volt
meter somehow measures the total voltage potential across both battery banks
because a ground is missing somewhere along the line, you could see 20+ volts on
the meter. This same fault could possibly make the regulator think maximum
charge is needed, resulting in the high current reading.

Try reading from the + terminal of one battery set to the + terminal of the
other. Is the voltage above 12.8 resting or 14.5 with the alternator turning?
If so, there is most likely a bad ground that has eluded you. It is even
possible that the ground problem is internal to some component.

That is the view from 10,000 feet. The devil is in the details of how your
coach is wired. I think that a person with diagrams in front of them or someone
with extensive experience with your coach's electrical system is needed to take
this further.

It is late and I could be totally wrong. I often am

Bob Griesel

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hulse" wrote:
>
> Ground problem would make sense,
> but I am out of ground points to check!
> I don't know where else to look for grounds but will enjoy any suggestions.
> Thanks Bob
>
> Fred
>

[freewill2008]

Great that the problem is solved. I'd like to se the circuit diagrams to try
and learn how a system with no more than 14+ volts available can show 20+ volts
on a system volt meter. Fred - maybe your coach has created electrical
perpetual motion and solved the world's energy problems? )

Bob Griesel '84 FC31 WLII

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hulse" wrote:
>
> Hi Ron,
> To simplify the issue,
> The ammeter on the dash pegged to 300+ amps
> The voltmeter for the coach pegged to 25+ volts
> The voltmeter for the engine showed 12+ volts.
> After the fact, I conclude that the solenoid was sending all the power from
the alternator to the coach bank of batteries and allowing nothing to the engine
batteries.
> After testing I found my engine batteries were all but dead.
> This also did not allow the jumper feature to operate.
> Thank you Ron for your input.
> Fred & Jeanne Hulse
> Morristown,Arizona
> 97 WLWB41
>

[freewill2008]

Nice going Yahoo!! This post is from 4 days ago!!

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "freewill2008" wrote:
>
> Fred - this is where geography and a very different coach from mine limit the
ability to help. I can give some general ideas.
>
> One thought: Brand new components can be bad. Have you put a volt meter
right on the alternator + terminal? What does it read? If it is 20+ volts,
look for another regulator.
>
> Unless you measure 20+ volts right at the alternator, the new regulator is
doing its job. In a 12V system, the charge voltage might be as high as 14.5,
and the resting battery voltage can be as high as 12.8. You you must ask
yourself where 20+ volts comes from.
>
> As I understand it, you have house and engine battery sets. Each battery set
should be grounded to the chassis, as are the coach components. There is a
total voltage potential of 25+ volts between the 2 battery banks. If a volt
meter somehow measures the total voltage potential across both battery banks
because a ground is missing somewhere along the line, you could see 20+ volts on
the meter. This same fault could possibly make the regulator think maximum
charge is needed, resulting in the high current reading.
>
> Try reading from the + terminal of one battery set to the + terminal of the
other. Is the voltage above 12.8 resting or 14.5 with the alternator turning?
If so, there is most likely a bad ground that has eluded you. It is even
possible that the ground problem is internal to some component.
>
> That is the view from 10,000 feet. The devil is in the details of how your
coach is wired. I think that a person with diagrams in front of them or someone
with extensive experience with your coach's electrical system is needed to take
this further.
>
> It is late and I could be totally wrong. I often am
>
> Bob Griesel
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hulse" wrote:
> >
> > Ground problem would make sense,
> > but I am out of ground points to check!
> > I don't know where else to look for grounds but will enjoy any suggestions.
> > Thanks Bob
> >
> > Fred
> >
>

[Fred Hulse]

Hi Bob

I forgot to tell everyone I use a voltage fertilizer in the batteries.

Seriously, we can go over the drawings at Quartzsite,if you like.

Thanks for your help,

Fred & Jeanne Hulse
Morristown,Arizona
97 WLWB41

[Ernie Ekberg]

Ok, Fred, what's a "voltage fertilizer?? Ernie Ekberg 83 PT40 Weatherford, Tx 76086 817-475-3991 www.ernieekbergflooring.net --- On Fri, 11/26/10, Fred Hulse wrote: From: Fred Hulse Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Coach Batts overcharging To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Date: Friday, November 26, 2010, 2:01 PM Hi Bob I forgot to tell everyone I use a voltage fertilizer in the batteries. Seriously, we can go over the drawings at Quartzsite,if you like. Thanks for your help, Fred & Jeanne Hulse Morristown,Arizona 97 WLWB41

[Fred Hulse]



Just kidding, Ernie

Fred