Muffler Removal

[cmillsap]

The boys at Redlands Rv are replacing the muffler on my LXi. They are telling me that they would need to remove some of the goat railing to remove the preforated plate. They are under the impression that the muffler has to be removed from the top. I was not aware that the muffler could not be removed from the bottom. They are saying the preforated plate cannot be removed without removing the goat rail

They are asking me to allow them to cut the railing and repair it. Otherwise they would have to remove a long section of the goat rail.
I don't want to do that if it isn't necessary.
Will someone comfirm that the muffler has to be removed from the top?
Or Please explain the procedure on how best to replace the muffler.

EDIT! Edit! They sent me a photo of the preforated plate. It is not the goat rails! It is the corrugated walkway running over about 4"s of the preforated plate. Should I let them cut out a section of the corrugated walkway or is thery another way to get the preeforated plate off so they can get to the top muffler hanger?

[davidbrady]

They're right Chuck, the muffler needs to come out the top. I pulled mine out the bottom but only after first removing the radiator and charge air cooler.

[cmillsap]

Heres a photo showing the walkway over the access plate

[davidbrady]

Chuck,

That's right the perforated plate is slightly obscured by the corrugated walkway. I'd let them notch a section out of the walkway. They should be able to do that easily with an angle grinder or a skill saw with a cutting blade for aluminum.

While in there have them grind off a sliver of the perforated plate so it's not rubbing up against your exhaust stack. :-)

[cmillsap]

(06-13-2013 19:24)davidmbrady Wrote:  Chuck,

That's right the perforated plate is slightly obscured by the corrugated walkway. I'd let them notch a section out of the walkway. They should be able to do that easily with an angle grinder or a skill saw with an cutting blade for aluminum.

While there in there have them grind off a sliver of the perforated plate so it's not rubbing up against your exhaust stack. :-)

That's what we're doing. Thanks again David.
What this "exercise" tells me, David, is that it probably is the original muffler that we're replacing. After 13 years, it needed to be done.

[davidbrady]

Good deduction! 13 years out of an aluminized muffler ain't bad! That notch in the gangway should've been factory installed!

Chuck, if you get a chance. I'd really appreciate some more details on the S60 oil cooler seal repair. Maybe you can talk to the mechanic? Thanks!

[cmillsap]

(06-13-2013 19:56)davidmbrady Wrote:  Good deduction! 13 years out of an aluminized muffler ain't bad! That notch in the gangway should've been factory installed!

Chuck, if you get a chance. I'd really appreciate some more details on the S60 oil cooler seal repair. Maybe you can talk to the mechanic? Thanks!

David, I did speak to Rolando again about the procedure they used to replace the o-rings and gaskets. He said he would put the repair Kit's part # and source on the invoice so I can provide that info to you also.

Regarding the removal & replacement method. As I said earlier, he had to clear some space to get to some bolts from the top by unbolting the air conditioner compressor from the engine. He did not detatch the coolant lines. Then he went under the coach and was able to finish removing the oil cooler from the underside of the engine compartment. He removed the oil cooler completely, determined the leak trail was from a worn o-ring. Cleaned the oil cooler in a bath tank, re-installed the 2 gaskets and 3 o-rings (3 diferent sizes) and reversed the procedure. This particular Mechanic is a fairly small man with 20 years of diesel experience. His smaller size was definately an asset. That's about all the details I have but I will speak directly to the mechanic tomorrow or Monday when I pick up the coach. New PTO & pump is not insatalled yet as we're waiting on the pump to be made. We will do that week after next.

Rolando has been on wanderlodgegurus.com and knows who you are.

He's an excellent,professional, patient & knowledgeable person at his job. He would not mind explaining the details of the mechanics procedure used to repair the oil cooler leak to you first hand.

http://www.redlandstruckservice.com

Here is Rolando's e-mail address. rolando@redlandstruckservice.com
Ph: 888.249.0124.

[davidbrady]

Thanks Chuck,

That helps a bunch. Fantastic news that he was able to completely remove the oil cooler with minimal disassembly. I'll definitely give Rolando a call. Thanks again! :-)

[cmillsap]

The mechanics are suggesting using Flex pipe in place of the pipe slip union which should be OK?

The muffler chase walls have no insulation on them. Is this the way BB did them originally. While the muffler is out, should I have the walls insulated with the same insulation that covers the engine bay surfaces or is it not needed?

[davidbrady]

It's looking good Chuck!

Yes, definitely go with flexpipe, the original double-ball socket flex never worked very well. It develops rust which prevents movement and it inevitably leaks where the cup and ball sockets overlap.

I wouldn't insulate the engine walls. If you open a cabinet in the interior you'll see that BB covered the exterior of the chase with blow-on expandable insulation. With no insulation there will be an air gap between the muffler and the interior walls of the chase. After a hot run the chimney that the air gap creates allows for efficient ventilation and cooling of your engine compartment. I've been on my roof after a hot run and the wind (convection currents) blows out the top of the chase as if there's a fan running!