Time to replace defective and potentially dangerous absorption fridge

[davidbrady]

Corey,

Some folks have reported the discoloration that you see. Other's haven't. I'm confused as to whether it's actually charred wood (pyrolysis) or is it carbon build up from non-ideal or initial combustion mixtures?

[gondolaguy]

(06-28-2013 15:51)davidmbrady Wrote:  Corey,

Some folks have reported the discoloration that you see. Other's haven't. I'm confused as to whether it's actually charred wood (pyrolysis) or is it carbon build up from non-ideal or initial combustion mixtures?

Good question, but I've never seen LP gas carbon, have you? Maybe residue from mud dauber burn off??

[davidbrady]

As far as I know incomplete propane combustion will put off carbon. (I'm don't want to be a pain, just trying to gauge how much at risk the rest of us are). I fully support your choice to swap out to a compressor fridge. Did you see my post (#8) where I linked to Nodine's RF197 conversion?

[gondolaguy]

Cool, glad to make this an issue, but hope it's not. Either way, I needed to make a decision due to the fridge dying. It is possible that is just carbon, I'll look closer when I get back down to the RV. I do believe there is significant risk as there have been definite fires due to this specific refer. I think I'll save my carcass for the eventual class action suit!!

[Arcticdude]

Is this on your 96?

[gondolaguy]

(06-28-2013 18:24)Arcticdude Wrote:  Is this on your 96?

Nope, it's a 2000 LXi

[WarrenM]

Any thoughts among the assembled minds regarding the suitability of the newer refrigerator designs to boon docking? Given the size of the BB house battery bank, is this a tolerable load in an occasional dry camping situation?
Just looking for some real time observations.

Thanks.

[davidbrady]

There's a bunch of answers here on the Samsung Tech Support page.

In short, the RF197 runs on 115V/60Hz/11.6 amps.The refrigerator draws between 0.8 and 4.3 amps depending upon what cycle is active. It can run on a modified sine wave inverter because it rectifies the power to DC. You need to leave 1" on each side of the refrigerator case and 2" above for sufficient air flow for the cooling system to work propery.

For RV real world experience, there's a guy over on the MotorhomeMagazine forum who reports a 12 amp compressor startup current which drops to 1.3A and after a minute down to 1.0A. He says the defrost cycle draws 3.6A for 15 minutes, but he doesn't say how often per day it kicks in. He reports the fridge is able to run overnight on his 150AH battery bank which I assume is limited to 50% depth of discharge.

This wouldn't pose much of a problem for my LXi's electrical system: 6 AGM Lifeline 4D battery bank (1260 AH), 280 Amp Xantrex chargers, 15KW Powertech generator, and 300A 50DN alternator. So for me, boondocking with the RF197 or similar 12V high efficiency residential fridge should be feasible.

[gondolaguy]

I ordered my Samsung from Sears (of all places) to be delivered the the Hendersonville, NC store. It was $1259.99 versus $1499 at Home Depot (Lowes can't get this model). I believe Sears is having a 4th of July sale. I looked at the bigger Samsungs at Lowes and they are slick looking units! I especially like the LED interior lighting.

Yesterday we took the old Dometic apart and learned a bunch that may be helpful. I could not verify if the black charred spots were true heat charring or just off gassing. Could be either, in any case doesn't add confidence.

Start by removing the doors and all the interior racks from the Dometic. Once you remove the Dometic from the wall, it makes sense to take the cooling unit off and remove it from the bus separately, it is more than half the weight of the entire unit and it makes getting the Dometic out the door a breeze. Essentially, you want to remove all the screws you can find inside the fridge then on the backside that are obvious. Also, unclip wires, etc and peel or slice the duct tape that hold the cooling unit in place (this will be obvious to you when you get into the job). When disconnected, the cooling unit comes out as one big, heavy and awkward part. It is easy to maneuver out the door, but be careful to remember it is full of ammonia!!!. Then the empty fridge box is light and narrower and also fits out the door. Here is the hole you are left with...

What is interesting about the cavity for the gas absorption unit, is that it needs to be a completely sealed space. This means there was a lot of extra plywood and silicone used to make the space vent from the bottom. The great news here (in the LXi anyway) is that if you dismantle the "interior box" you will gain about 2" on the sides and 3.5" in the rear. Basically, you have the entire space to the wall with no obstructions. Here are some pics that may help explain. Top empty box removal must be done first in order to easily remove side panels. left side panel removal shows construction of interior box. Close up... Finally, the rear panel is out exposing that there are no serious obstructions in using all of the rear space if needed. I will need to reposition the electrical box in some manner, maybe in the floor. The Samsung will need a little more vertical space, and I have decided I will go up from the existing drawer instead of removing the drawer. Although the Samsung weighs about the same as the Dometic, it doesn't have the screw flanges on the side, so I'll need to be sure the floor will hold all the weight. Perhaps another layer of 1/2" plywood will be a good idea on the floor.

[davidbrady]

Hi Corey,

Thanks for the write up. I'm on the road and can't type much on this Android. (I'll comment more later). Let me know when the Samsung arrives and I'll swing down to Hendersonville to help you get it into the coach.