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cmillsap · (This post was last modified: 03-14-2015 00:20 by cmillsap.)

(03-13-2015 18:56)RetDA Wrote: I have been plagued with my Microphor Microflush LF 210 flapper not closing completely. I decided the 22 yo OEM flapper gasket needed replacing. Contacted Sue Mullaney at Mullaney & Associates (http://www.edmullaney.com) and ordered a couple of new gaskets (part #27207). Pretty neat upgrade - about 1/4 " thick, and have some stout adhesive on the back. Installation fairly easy:

1.) shut water and compressor off 2.) bleed air from compressor tank 3.) using fingernails, small screwdriver or needlenose pliers remove old gasket 4.) clean 22 years worth of nastiness from the flapper, the flange the gasket fits in and the groove where the flapper seals in the toilet 5.) using a hair dryer thoroughly dry the flapper 6.) peel tape from back of the new gasket and carefully fit in the flange on the flapper.

Bingo - new gasket, no more toilet water leaking. May be old hat to you gurus, but quite a feat to this techno challenged retire lawyer.

Way to go, Tommy. No "Guru" could have done it any better. Smile

Chuck

davidbrady · 03-14-2015, 12:27

Thanks Tommy, we appreciate the tip. It's good to know that Sue is carrying on with the family business. My p-bus uses a headhunter toilet so I'm currently (temporarily???) out of the Microphor world. The headhunter toilet poses its own set of special challenges. For those interested, the headhunter toilet is a macerating design. It's super simple but it relies on some critical check valves and if those valves start leaking, evidenced by a diminishing bowl water level, it could mean that toilet water is draining back into the fresh water tank! Eek! Sigh! Every toilet seems to be somewhat cursed! LOL! Smile

GregOConnor · 04-21-2015, 01:02

(03-14-2015 12:27)davidbrady Wrote: Thanks Tommy, we appreciate the tip. It's good to know that Sue is carrying on with the family business. My p-bus uses a headhunter toilet so I'm currently (temporarily???) out of the Microphor world. The headhunter toilet poses its own set of special challenges. For those interested, the headhunter toilet is a macerating design. It's super simple but it relies on some critical check valves and if those valves start leaking, evidenced by a diminishing bowl water level, it could mean that toilet water is draining back into the fresh water tank! Eek! Sigh! Every toilet seems to be somewhat cursed! LOL!

David, not sure if you are serious about the back flush but this is one of my fears with an unfamiliar system. the new to me air operated toilet in my lxi has issues. I need to undo PO re engineering and make sure the plumbing code safe measures are followed

In my 94 there is a atmospheric vacuum breaker in line with the tank flush system that I believe vents sewer fumes into the wall of the coach where the device is located. I often thought of removing it but have fear of the impact if there is an issue. one problem with AVB devices is they vent by default when not pressurized
http://www.portlandonline.com/shared/cfm...m?id=28176

Are there atmospheric vacuum breaker devices in the LXi that I need to make sure are inplace?

GregOConnor · 04-22-2015, 03:33

I just rebuilt my Thomas 12 volt compressor. Rob R of Wog clued me in to zoro.com. to find the correct kit you need to first look up the Thomas pump model on graingers.com then use the grainger part number to find the rebuild kit oOn zoro
I am surprised that the 120 volt Gast compressor did not pressurize the small tank used for the toilet and slide seal. I decided to remove a check valve and allow the Gast to fill the toilet/seal tank. I wonder if this now becomes part of my dot air system? I may need to add a protection valve where the check valve was. I not liking the need to maintain air pressure to flush.

davidbrady · (This post was last modified: 04-22-2015 12:34 by davidbrady.)

Greg,

There should be a vacuum break right on the air/water separator but it may depend on what toilet you have. (You may have said earlier, but I'm too lazy to look back, lol). In my LXi there was a general plumbing vacuum break buried beneath a removable panel inside my hallway closet mounted on the wall. In both cases there should be a trap downstream to block fumes. The issue with my Headhunter toilet is there's no air gap between the fresh water and the blackwater in the toilet bowl. The pressurized fresh water enters below the bowl water line, macerating style. The microphor toilets that I've worked with have an air gap so there's no way for black water to back flow into the fresh water tank. HTH's

GregOConnor · 04-22-2015, 13:09

This is one of the reasons I never shut off my 12 volt water pump. The hope is to keep back flush out of the lines. The other reason is to keep air out. I just finished a hardscape project for a retired engineer. I set up an excavator to keep him busy and away from my work, he got bored and decided to test irrigation that ran under the hardscape. He capped all the lines on the 2 inch to do a leak test prior to flatwork and blew out the city meter.
I am thinking about replacing the toilet with a gravity flow model and just use fish oil in my diet. Way too much consideration to flush one of these units for me.

(04-22-2015 12:34)davidbrady Wrote: Greg,

There should be a vacuum break right on the air/water separator but it may depend on what toilet you have. (You may have said earlier, but I'm too lazy to look back, lol). In my LXi there was a general plumbing vacuum break buried beneath a removable panel inside my hallway closet mounted on the wall. In both cases there should be a trap downstream to block fumes. The issue with my Headhunter toilet is there's no air gap between the fresh water and the blackwater in the toilet bowl. The pressurized fresh water enters below the bowl water line, macerating style. The microphor toilets that I've worked with have an air gap so there's no way for black water to back flow into the fresh water tank. HTH's

cmillsap · (This post was last modified: 04-24-2015 13:40 by cmillsap.)

(04-22-2015 13:09)GregOConnor Wrote: This is one of the reasons I never shut off my 12 volt water pump. The hope is to keep back flush out of the lines. The other reason is to keep air out. I just finished a hardscape project for a retired engineer. I set up an excavator to keep him busy and away from my work, he got bored and decided to test irrigation that ran under the hardscape. He capped all the lines on the 2 inch to do a leak test prior to flatwork and blew out the city meter.
I am thinking about replacing the toilet with a gravity flow model and just use fish oil in my diet. Way too much consideration to flush one of these units for me.

(04-22-2015 12:34)davidbrady Wrote: Greg,

There should be a vacuum break right on the air/water separator but it may depend on what toilet you have. (You may have said earlier, but I'm too lazy to look back, lol). In my LXi there was a general plumbing vacuum break buried beneath a removable panel inside my hallway closet mounted on the wall. In both cases there should be a trap downstream to block fumes. The issue with my Headhunter toilet is there's no air gap between the fresh water and the blackwater in the toilet bowl. The pressurized fresh water enters below the bowl water line, macerating style. The microphor toilets that I've worked with have an air gap so there's no way for black water to back flow into the fresh water tank. HTH's

Greg, before you settle for a gravity flow toilet, you might want to consider another option. I think there is some horizontal plumbing in an LXi that makes a gravity flow toilet not to work efficiently. This is the toilet model I have in my LXi. I think it is made by Thetford. I'm presently away from my bus but I will be back Monday. If this interests you, I can get you more specifics then.

This toilet works excellent. It has a lite flush and a heavy flush operation with the push of a button. The electric controls go to sleep after a period of non-use.
It seems so unnecessary to have to deal with all the pneumatics associated with the Microphors.

timetravelers · 04-24-2015, 16:00

After putting the second rebuild kit into out Microphor, putting O rings in and out, re-lubing, talking to the tech at Mullaney, I purchased a new control assy with a 2 year warranty for $300. Also put a new water regulator valve in the water bay for the toilet line, and the toilet now has worked flawlessly for almost a year. Since we are full time, it has constant use.

Microphor needs 60 psi air and 30 psi water.

I checked out Headhunter and Thetford for a full replacement, and was ready, but the new control has solved the problem. Still like the low water usage of the Microphor for dry camping.

GregOConnor · 04-24-2015, 16:40

Please send me the model, I have the unit working good now but the compressor comes on every 2 hours because now the tanks are tied together and the dot system is getting charged by the 12 v Thomas
[/quote]

Greg, before you settle for a gravity flow toilet, you might want to consider another option. I think there is some horizontal plumbing in an LXi that makes a gravity flow toilet not to work efficiently. This is the toilet model I have in my LXi. I think it is made by Thetford. I'm presently away from my bus but I will be back Monday. If this interests you, I can get you more specifics then.

This toilet works excellent. It has a lite flush and a heavy flush operation with the push of a button. The electric controls go to sleep after a period of non-use.
It seems so unnecessary to have to deal with all the pneumatics associated with the Microphors.
[/quote]

davidbrady · 04-24-2015, 17:36

Greg,

There should be a check valve preventing your Thomas compressor from airing up your dot system. My LXi had one but BB plumbed it in backwards. The fix could be as simple as reversing the check valve.

I had 10 years of great service from my Microphor LF219. I rebuilt the air/water sequencer once. I found that Morey is right about the pressures. Sometime the microphor would do a bidet splash upon flushing. That was easily fixed by turning down the water volume at the domestic fresh water manifold. In fact, the best way to adjust the bowl water level is by making fine adjustments at the water manifold.

But, having said all this. I love my fully electric Vantare. Once upon a time Vantare went on a mission to eliminate air powered devices. (Too many customers complaining about air leaks). Electric motors seem to be more reliable, simpler, and tend to have better motion control. My dump valves, pocket doors, door locks, toilet, slide air seal, and more, are all electric.