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kart02 · 01-08-2018, 09:39

Hi guys, my name is Mike I live in Southern Oregon.
I'm fairly new to the Wanderlodge. I have already fallen in love with it! I have a 92 WB 3907. When I purchased it I went through the entire air system. Now I need some electrical help. I had the Diode go bad for the tag axel(Fixed)
I now have a problem with the landing lights. Dashboard has both driver and passenger side LED lights on. Rear passenger side landing light was on (I Disconnected it) any ideas where to start troubleshooting?
Just got home from a 1800 mile trip to find out stairs were down the last 100 miles or so, light in stair case will not shut off when door is closed. I have no schematics for the stair system. Can anyone help me out? One big help would be where are the rear 12v panels located? Previous owner has changed to much for my comfort. I'm in the process of restoring 12v electrical System back to BB specs. Anything I should be aware of as far as that's concerned?

Mike
Grants Pass, Or.

***Arcticdude*** · 01-08-2018, 14:31

Mike,

Welcome to the forum! Take a look at the document library: http://wanderlodgegurus.com/misc.php?page=library

This will at least get you started. Start with the "years" at the bottom. As there might be a problem with the current 92 pages (they wouldn't load for me), use the 93 instead. Shouldn't be too much different.

Next to the passenger seat is a switch for the stair light(s). Did that get turned on inadvertently? As far as the stairs being down, do they work at all?

On my 96, the rear 12V panels are all in the rearmost closet, but that's if have a cross bed. On the bottom of the driver's side is a removable panel in the floor that just lifts up and along the rear wall is a panel that's screwed in place. The smaller panel in the floor is where most of the usual stuff is.

As far as changing back, that may or may not be the right thing to do. Unfortunately, you've got to figure out why the changes were made. They could be potential improvements.

kart02 · 01-08-2018, 20:16

Thanks John,

Stairs are not operating at all at the moment. Thanks for the 12v locations in the rear, I do have a side bed that is against the driver side. I'll take a look when I get home tonight.

Mike
Grants Pass, OR.

***Arcticdude*** · 01-09-2018, 00:58

You've got a stair switch on the lower right area of the main dash that keeps the stairs out. I don't believe it's supposed to work when in gear, but given your statement about wiring, it's possible that it doesn't function as originally intended.

kart02 · 01-11-2018, 08:26

The switch on dash was working correctly untill our final stent home. The red light telling me the stairs were down along with the staircase light didn't come on until a truck driver gave me a honk and I pulled over to see what was going on.
The previous owner changed over to a Webasco heater. He left the Primus thermostat and did some re-wiring to that system. Thankfully he's marked on the few schematics what he changed.
Thanks for the 93 idea. That's much more then I had.
I'll start working on it this weekend.

Thanks for your help,

Mike
Grants Pass, OR.
.

Urnie-Medie · 03-08-2018, 23:26

On my 2001 LXi all of the four flood lights were out. I started to replace and it is quite a job - but I got them in. They all work now except the drivers side rear (the drivers side front works)
There is no power in the rubber holder for the flood. Does anybody have a suggestion on where to start trying to see where the problem is? There must be a connection somewhere that connects the front to the rear.

Thanks
Urnie

***mbulriss*** · 03-09-2018, 00:38

Urnie,

All 4 on my 2001 are out also but that task is way down the list of things to do. I looked at it casually and it didn’t seem that bad after having done all 4 on my 1991 WB. Any tips or part numbers would be appreciated to save time.

Those things are in a high dirt and corrosion location. On my 91, I did have one connector that was corroded so bad that I couldn’t get a voltage reading. I ended up soaking it in a small plastic bag of vinegar overnite and it cleaned up and started giving me power on the test light so that was a good outcome. The first thing I might suggest if you haven’t already tried is to use a test light to go back a few inches on the wires and see if you get power on the wires. If you’re lucky it may just be the connector end.

FWIW and good luck. Let us know the outcome please.

Thanks,

Urnie-Medie · 03-12-2018, 20:32

I looked into the issue further and checked to see if there was any corrosion on the connections - there was none. I started to try and trace the wire and the first thing I did was to take the test light and clip each terminal one at a time and with the other end touch the wheel rim - I was surprised when I found power. I started to remove the rubber holder - but felt in behind and the area is open. There was the wire and connector and one of the wires was not in the connector. I will rewire this but it should solve the problem.

Thanks
Urnie

***mbulriss*** · 03-13-2018, 21:12

Urnie,

Glad to hear it will be an easy fix. Did they just unscrew and pop out? What part number and source on the replacements?

Thanks.

Urnie-Medie · 03-13-2018, 23:50

Behind the rubber bulb holder there was an automotive type two prong connector. You can reach the connector by just going between the rear tires and reached behind. Very reachable without taking anything off. I just purchased some aftermarket connectors and will install them and make sure they are wired correctly and tied up to keep them in a safe position.