New Building

[Howard O. Truitt]

I'm getting ready to build a storage building for my 86 8V92 PT40. The
previous owner had kept it in a barn on his farm. I would appreciate
some advise on the concrete pad. I plan on building a 16'x56' building
with 14'x14' roll up doors on each end. I had one builder say to
compact the dirt well and pour 4" of 2000# concrete with fiber the
other says I need to pour 6" of 3000# concrete with wire.
I also plan on putting in a 42" wide by 42" deep by 12' long service
pit.
I would appreciate your imput.
Howard Truitt
Camilla, Ga.
86 8V92 PT40

[ronmarabito2002]

In order to recommend the slab thickness, type concrete and
reinforcing, it is necessary to know the soil characteristics in the
area. I definitely would not use 2000 psi concrete. That's just
about good enough for a sidewalk, but not for a Bird. There should be
detailed soil information available from your county agent.

R.E. (Ron) Marabito, Dallas, TX 92WB40
Architect, retired.

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Howard O. Truitt"
wrote:
>
> I'm getting ready to build a storage building for my 86 8V92 PT40.
The
> previous owner had kept it in a barn on his farm. I would appreciate
> some advise on the concrete pad. I plan on building a 16'x56'
building
> with 14'x14' roll up doors on each end. I had one builder say to
> compact the dirt well and pour 4" of 2000# concrete with fiber the
> other says I need to pour 6" of 3000# concrete with wire.
> I also plan on putting in a 42" wide by 42" deep by 12' long service
> pit.
> I would appreciate your imput.
> Howard Truitt
> Camilla, Ga.
> 86 8V92 PT40
>

[Wallace Craig]

We just put in a metal building with a 20 x 60 floor of 6" concrete with rebar;
its only about 5 months old but no cracks as yet. The soil here is almost total
sand and the builder swears that it would hold our 40' PT; which we have now
replaced with a 95 WBWL42 which is heavier by several # and I'm sure glad for
the 6" concrete. Only time will tell if its enough. Also put in water and
septic which is handy. Best luck
Wallace Craig
95WLWB42
Azle, Texas

"Howard O. Truitt" wrote:
I'm getting ready to build a storage building for my 86 8V92 PT40. The
previous owner had kept it in a barn on his farm. I would appreciate
some advise on the concrete pad. I plan on building a 16'x56' building
with 14'x14' roll up doors on each end. I had one builder say to
compact the dirt well and pour 4" of 2000# concrete with fiber the
other says I need to pour 6" of 3000# concrete with wire.
I also plan on putting in a 42" wide by 42" deep by 12' long service
pit.
I would appreciate your imput.
Howard Truitt
Camilla, Ga.
86 8V92 PT40








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[Blair]

At 03:05 PM 11/18/2005, you wrote:
>I'm getting ready to build a storage building for my 86 8V92 PT40. The
>previous owner had kept it in a barn on his farm. I would appreciate
>some advise on the concrete pad. I plan on building a 16'x56' building
>with 14'x14' roll up doors on each end. I had one builder say to
>compact the dirt well

Then lay down a layer of black plastic to prevent moisture lost while the
'cret is hardening.

>and pour 4" of 2000# concrete with fiber
No way.... he's nuts and
you can't get a good finish with fiber. leave it out

> the
>other says I need to pour 6" of 3000# concrete with wire.

Six inches with # 6 or #8 rebar on a minimum of 16" on center. You could
add the wire
Your mix should be a minimum of six sack with 3/4 minimum rock.
The day after your pour, have them "Cut" the shrinkage lines.

Blair in Oregon

>I also plan on putting in a 42" wide by 42" deep by 12' long service
>pit.
>I would appreciate your imput.
>Howard Truitt
>Camilla, Ga.
>86 8V92 PT40
>
>
>
>
>
>
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[Robert Johannesen]

Hi Howard,
I have built three buildings for my Birds. Actually, I over-engineer my
workshops so the Bluebird will fit inside.
First, I would be sure whatever plans you put together meet or exceed
any applicable codes. I always went to meet the building inspectors and they
have always been very helpful when they realize that you want to do it "really
right". You pay your taxes, let them answer some of your questions. (Spoken by a
career gov't employee!)
I built my own forms and used a pier and beam design with the anchor
bolts for steel members cast in the concrete pour. This building (my last one)
had 3/4" x 24" anchor bolts for the mid span columns. For rebar I used #3
(3/8") on 14 inch centers everywhere the Bird would not be sitting. For the
"vehicle lane" I used #5 on 6" centers just in case I had several jackstands
instead of eight tires holding the weight. The beams around the perimeter have
#4 rebar 6" apart horizontally and vertically. I used a "keylock metal
screed-type partition" for all my joints with the rebar actually passing thru
it. I used 3000 PSI concrete at least 6 " thick.
But, the best suggestion I can make is to be sure you put conduit (1
1/2" or 2") from the load center to all over the shop. I have it running to the
center of each wall, 12" from each corner, to each column, and whereevr you can
imagine you'll have an appliance or machine. Also consider several floor drains.
I made three 12" X 12" boxes in the floor with a drain and a hose bib in each
one. Also, you might put a 50 Amp receptical at each end of the building so you
could plug it in, no matter which way you pull it in. I am still adding circuits
and still have some empty conduit.
If you are going to put a service pit (I really wish I had!) countersink
waterproof lights and recepticals in the walls and put several drains in the
floor (with sediment baskets). That way you can use a pressure washer in the
pit and easily clean it up when you are finished. Also, put a 3"X3" steel angle
around the edge to keep things from rolling in the pit. You could also put a 2"
ledge inside so you could put in framed sections of expanded metal to keep us
old blisters from stumbling into the pit! If you did several 3 foot sections
they would be easy to lift or slide over each other. You could probably get away
with steps in only one end that would allow you to go down under the rear end as
part of your normal "preflight". Your idea of having it 12 feet long is good
because most of what your are going to be working on or looking at is in the
rear. You can swing it around to grease the front and check the brakes and
generator.
See how easy it is to get friends to help you spend money!!!

"Howard O. Truitt" wrote:
I'm getting ready to build a storage building for my 86 8V92 PT40. The
previous owner had kept it in a barn on his farm. I would appreciate
some advise on the concrete pad. I plan on building a 16'x56' building
with 14'x14' roll up doors on each end. I had one builder say to
compact the dirt well and pour 4" of 2000# concrete with fiber the
other says I need to pour 6" of 3000# concrete with wire.
I also plan on putting in a 42" wide by 42" deep by 12' long service
pit.
I would appreciate your imput.
Howard Truitt
Camilla, Ga.
86 8V92 PT40






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[Gregory OConnor]

Howard, like blair said slow cure is key. You can spray a curing
membrane over the slab after it is finished. I demo concrete and get
to look at the underside of failed concrete. thickness is not as
important as subgrade prep. One thing overlooked by the crew pouring
the concrete is lines in the sand under the slab. often the subgrade
is raked smooth but the rebar(reinforcement rod) makes a imprint in
the sand that has the same effect as a joint atop of the slab. The
slab will crack at the imprint all the way up to the surface. One
other point overlooked is keeping the rebar center or atleast 2
inches off the subgrade. I would have the finishers Green saw cut
joints on the slab inplace of tool finishing joints. Tool joints are
wide and in the way of creepers and rollaway tool boxes. Fiber works
great but it takes awhile for the fuzz to sweep off the surface. But
if it does crack and you have rebar it wont move up or apart.

Gregory O'Connor
94pt40
Cracked concrete is Beautiful $

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Blair wrote:
>
> At 03:05 PM 11/18/2005, you wrote:
> >I'm getting ready to build a storage building for my 86 8V92 PT40.
The
> >previous owner had kept it in a barn on his farm. I would
appreciate
> >some advise on the concrete pad. I plan on building a 16'x56'
building
> >with 14'x14' roll up doors on each end. I had one builder say to
> >compact the dirt well
>
> Then lay down a layer of black plastic to prevent moisture lost
while the
> 'cret is hardening.
>
> >and pour 4" of 2000# concrete with fiber
> No way.... he's nuts and
> you can't get a good finish with fiber. leave it out
>
> > the
> >other says I need to pour 6" of 3000# concrete with wire.
>
> Six inches with # 6 or #8 rebar on a minimum of 16" on center. You
could
> add the wire
> Your mix should be a minimum of six sack with 3/4 minimum rock.
> The day after your pour, have them "Cut" the shrinkage lines.
>
> Blair in Oregon
>
> >I also plan on putting in a 42" wide by 42" deep by 12' long
service
> >pit.
> >I would appreciate your imput.
> >Howard Truitt
> >Camilla, Ga.
> >86 8V92 PT40
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >SPONSORED LINKS
> ><http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?
t=ms&k=Recreational+vehicles&w1=Recreational+vehicles&w2=Wanderlodge&w
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[dspithaler@...]

One thing in the cold frozen north is to have good drainage away from
underneath your slab. With water under the slab & freezing it will lift & crack
the slab. I know you don't have that problem in GA but we do in PA.
Don
89 SP 36'
Butler, PA


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[John Suter]

Hi Howard,

I wish I had more time this morning to detail what
not to do, but the archives should contain our
exploits over some 20 years with the wonderful
"concrete busters" we all call, Birds. As you are
located not far, you are welcome to come and see our
lastest "professionally engineered" drive, before
potentially costly mistakes, and before we replace
about 75% of the 9 year old reinforced concrete we
will have to replace before we could ever sell our
property.

We had two previous "problems" so had latest
designed by "professional engineers." Used 3,000lb
concrete with specified aggregate, fiberglass
reinforced (and we poured cylinders and had them
tested to keep all honest), #2 rebar "tied" at every
joint on 6" centers, raised on "bridges," 6" thick at
drive center with footers 18" deep and 12" wide at
edges with expansion joints every 20'. Lasted maybe 4
years.

Ground prep included about 12" of sand, gravel
compacted etc - if we do it again, I'd spend a ton
more on the underlayment and have it at least 24", as
I believe the concrete top has considerably less to do
with success of the endeavor. Any curves, make inside
radius at least 90' and 18' wide at the overhang
without trees or shrubs at ground level for Bird
overhang (at least we got all curves correct).

John & Amy Suter
Jacksonville, FL



--- "Howard O. Truitt" wrote:

> I'm getting ready to build a storage building for my
> 86 8V92 PT40. The
> previous owner had kept it in a barn on his farm. I
> would appreciate
> some advise on the concrete pad. I plan on building
> a 16'x56' building
> with 14'x14' roll up doors on each end. I had one
> builder say to
> compact the dirt well and pour 4" of 2000# concrete
> with fiber the
> other says I need to pour 6" of 3000# concrete with
> wire.
> I also plan on putting in a 42" wide by 42" deep by
> 12' long service
> pit.
> I would appreciate your imput.
> Howard Truitt
> Camilla, Ga.
> 86 8V92 PT40
>
>
>
>
>




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[Blair]

> One thing overlooked by the crew pouring
>the concrete is lines in the sand under the slab. often the subgrade
>is raked smooth but the rebar(reinforcement rod) makes a imprint in
>the sand that has the same effect as a joint atop of the slab. The
>slab will crack at the imprint all the way up to the surface.


Now that is interesting! Never heard that one, but is makes sense. When
I built my garage we
used 3/4 minus vibrated and compacted dead smooth. A friend works for a
large construction
company and had some rebar left over from a bridge job. We double matted
3/4 and 1 inch
rebar four inches apart vertically and12 in on center horizontally. The
floor is a minimum of 8-9
inches thick and was properly cured. I can put the Cat in and not
worry. One other point,
make sure your rebar is at least two inches below the finished surface to
also prevent cracks.
blair in Oregon


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Richard Hayden]

I built mine with 6" and fiberglass strands in the concrete. The builder
thought that 4" would be just fine. They said that they "didn't do steel".
This was done in 2003 and to date NO CRACKS. It is a 34x44 foot building with a
14x14 door. We are located in Western WA. I compacted the site with the BB we
had at the time a '81 31' FC, about 28000#. We now have a '87 PT38, much more
weight. Good luck, you'll enjoy the "Birdhouse". That what we call ours.

Dick Hayden -
----- Original Message -----
From: Howard O. Truitt
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, November 18, 2005 4:05 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] New Building


I'm getting ready to build a storage building for my 86 8V92 PT40. The
previous owner had kept it in a barn on his farm. I would appreciate
some advise on the concrete pad. I plan on building a 16'x56' building
with 14'x14' roll up doors on each end. I had one builder say to
compact the dirt well and pour 4" of 2000# concrete with fiber the
other says I need to pour 6" of 3000# concrete with wire.
I also plan on putting in a 42" wide by 42" deep by 12' long service
pit.
I would appreciate your imput.
Howard Truitt
Camilla, Ga.
86 8V92 PT40






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