Refrigerator help needed.

[ttikalsky]

The refrigerator is not cooling when operating on gas. It works fine
when hooked up to electricity. I pulled the burner out and cleaned
it, reinstalled. I also removed the vent cover on the roof to verify
there was no blockage. I also brushed the fins while the roof cover
was off. I have the wind shield off and the flame is all blue and
looks to be burning the full length of the flame tube. The
refrigerator is a Dometic RM1300. How long should it take to begin
cooling? Are there other things to check? There is also a fan behind
the refrigerator and when I turn the fan on at the galley panel should
the fan be spinning or is thermostatically controlled?

Troy, Waconia MN
1983 FC33

[Ralph L. Fullenwider]

Hi Troy:

It is time to clean the flue tube of rust and soot and also clean the
baffle that hangs in the flue tube.
Open the anti flame blow out cap on top of the flue tube. You will see a
bent wire hanging on the inside of the tube, pull the baffle out taking
care not to disturb the bend in the wire and wire brush the baffle. Then
you need a flue tube brush to clean the tube with. Sort of like running a
brush down the barrel of a rifle to clean it.
The baffle makes the rising heat swirl to evenly distribute the heat in the
proper proportions and the built up scale inside the tube prevents the heat
from causing the ammonia/water to boil at the proper temp causing the super
heated gas to rise to the evaporator and the water to separate and flow
back to the chamber.

It heats on electric because the heat transfer is to the out side of the
flue tube causing the above reaction.

Safe travels,

Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm



At 03:27 AM 8/10/2005 +0000, you wrote:
>The refrigerator is not cooling when operating on gas. It works fine
>when hooked up to electricity. I pulled the burner out and cleaned
>it, reinstalled. I also removed the vent cover on the roof to verify
>there was no blockage. I also brushed the fins while the roof cover
>was off. I have the wind shield off and the flame is all blue and
>looks to be burning the full length of the flame tube. The
>refrigerator is a Dometic RM1300. How long should it take to begin
>cooling? Are there other things to check? There is also a fan behind
>the refrigerator and when I turn the fan on at the galley panel should
>the fan be spinning or is thermostatically controlled?
>
>Troy, Waconia MN
>1983 FC33

[ttikalsky]

That worked! Thanks Ralph.

How about the refrigerator cooling fan, mounted behind the fridge. Is
the fan thermostatically controlled?


Troy, Waconia MN
1983 FC33



--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
wrote:
> Hi Troy:
>
> It is time to clean the flue tube of rust and soot and also clean
the
> baffle that hangs in the flue tube.
> Open the anti flame blow out cap on top of the flue tube. You will
see a
> bent wire hanging on the inside of the tube, pull the baffle out
taking
> care not to disturb the bend in the wire and wire brush the baffle.
Then
> you need a flue tube brush to clean the tube with. Sort of like
running a
> brush down the barrel of a rifle to clean it.
> The baffle makes the rising heat swirl to evenly distribute the heat
in the
> proper proportions and the built up scale inside the tube prevents
the heat
> from causing the ammonia/water to boil at the proper temp causing
the super
> heated gas to rise to the evaporator and the water to separate and
flow
> back to the chamber.
>
> It heats on electric because the heat transfer is to the out side of
the
> flue tube causing the above reaction.
>
> Safe travels,
>
> Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm
>
>
>
> At 03:27 AM 8/10/2005 +0000, you wrote:
> >The refrigerator is not cooling when operating on gas. It works
fine
> >when hooked up to electricity. I pulled the burner out and cleaned
> >it, reinstalled. I also removed the vent cover on the roof to
verify
> >there was no blockage. I also brushed the fins while the roof
cover
> >was off. I have the wind shield off and the flame is all blue and
> >looks to be burning the full length of the flame tube. The
> >refrigerator is a Dometic RM1300. How long should it take to begin
> >cooling? Are there other things to check? There is also a fan
behind
> >the refrigerator and when I turn the fan on at the galley panel
should
> >the fan be spinning or is thermostatically controlled?
> >
> >Troy, Waconia MN
> >1983 FC33

[Curt Sprenger]

With the frig. full of food, the setting all the way cold, and operating
for more than a day, what should the temperature be inside the frig?

Curt Sprenger 1987 PT38, Anaheim Hills, Calif.


ttikalsky wrote:

> That worked! Thanks Ralph.
>
> How about the refrigerator cooling fan, mounted behind the fridge. Is
> the fan thermostatically controlled?
>
>
> Troy, Waconia MN
> 1983 FC33
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
> wrote:
> > Hi Troy:
> >
> > It is time to clean the flue tube of rust and soot and also clean
> the
> > baffle that hangs in the flue tube.
> > Open the anti flame blow out cap on top of the flue tube. You will
> see a
> > bent wire hanging on the inside of the tube, pull the baffle out
> taking
> > care not to disturb the bend in the wire and wire brush the baffle.
> Then
> > you need a flue tube brush to clean the tube with. Sort of like
> running a
> > brush down the barrel of a rifle to clean it.
> > The baffle makes the rising heat swirl to evenly distribute the heat
> in the
> > proper proportions and the built up scale inside the tube prevents
> the heat
> > from causing the ammonia/water to boil at the proper temp causing
> the super
> > heated gas to rise to the evaporator and the water to separate and
> flow
> > back to the chamber.
> >
> > It heats on electric because the heat transfer is to the out side of
> the
> > flue tube causing the above reaction.
> >
> > Safe travels,
> >
> > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> > http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm
> >
> >
> >
> > At 03:27 AM 8/10/2005 +0000, you wrote:
> > >The refrigerator is not cooling when operating on gas. It works
> fine
> > >when hooked up to electricity. I pulled the burner out and cleaned
> > >it, reinstalled. I also removed the vent cover on the roof to
> verify
> > >there was no blockage. I also brushed the fins while the roof
> cover
> > >was off. I have the wind shield off and the flame is all blue and
> > >looks to be burning the full length of the flame tube. The
> > >refrigerator is a Dometic RM1300. How long should it take to begin
> > >cooling? Are there other things to check? There is also a fan
> behind
> > >the refrigerator and when I turn the fan on at the galley panel
> should
> > >the fan be spinning or is thermostatically controlled?
> > >
> > >Troy, Waconia MN
> > >1983 FC33
>
>
>
>
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>

[pattypape]

Curt,
This is just a guess, But I think it should be about 40 degrees,
Until the outside ambient temp reaches over 80/85. The amonia frig
can only reduce the temp about 40 to 50 degrees.
It may not be as efficient at 90/95 outside degrees.

Bill 88 FC

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Curt Sprenger
wrote:
> With the frig. full of food, the setting all the way cold, and
operating
> for more than a day, what should the temperature be inside the
frig?
>
> Curt Sprenger 1987 PT38, Anaheim Hills, Calif.
>
>
> ttikalsky wrote:
>
> > That worked! Thanks Ralph.
> >
> > How about the refrigerator cooling fan, mounted behind the
fridge. Is
> > the fan thermostatically controlled?
> >
> >
> > Troy, Waconia MN
> > 1983 FC33
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
> > wrote:
> > > Hi Troy:
> > >
> > > It is time to clean the flue tube of rust and soot and also
clean
> > the
> > > baffle that hangs in the flue tube.
> > > Open the anti flame blow out cap on top of the flue tube. You
will
> > see a
> > > bent wire hanging on the inside of the tube, pull the baffle
out
> > taking
> > > care not to disturb the bend in the wire and wire brush the
baffle.
> > Then
> > > you need a flue tube brush to clean the tube with. Sort of like
> > running a
> > > brush down the barrel of a rifle to clean it.
> > > The baffle makes the rising heat swirl to evenly distribute
the heat
> > in the
> > > proper proportions and the built up scale inside the tube
prevents
> > the heat
> > > from causing the ammonia/water to boil at the proper temp
causing
> > the super
> > > heated gas to rise to the evaporator and the water to separate
and
> > flow
> > > back to the chamber.
> > >
> > > It heats on electric because the heat transfer is to the out
side of
> > the
> > > flue tube causing the above reaction.
> > >
> > > Safe travels,
> > >
> > > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > > Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> > > http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > At 03:27 AM 8/10/2005 +0000, you wrote:
> > > >The refrigerator is not cooling when operating on gas. It
works
> > fine
> > > >when hooked up to electricity. I pulled the burner out and
cleaned
> > > >it, reinstalled. I also removed the vent cover on the roof to
> > verify
> > > >there was no blockage. I also brushed the fins while the roof
> > cover
> > > >was off. I have the wind shield off and the flame is all
blue and
> > > >looks to be burning the full length of the flame tube. The
> > > >refrigerator is a Dometic RM1300. How long should it take to
begin
> > > >cooling? Are there other things to check? There is also a
fan
> > behind
> > > >the refrigerator and when I turn the fan on at the galley
panel
> > should
> > > >the fan be spinning or is thermostatically controlled?
> > > >
> > > >Troy, Waconia MN
> > > >1983 FC33
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-------
> > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
> >
> > * Visit your group "WanderlodgeForum
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web.
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of
> > Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
> >
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-------
> >

[Curt Sprenger]

Thanks Bill. Our frig. operates at 40 degrees in 80/85 degree weather.

Curt Sprenger 1987 PT38, Anaheim Hills, Calif.

pattypape wrote:

> Curt,
> This is just a guess, But I think it should be about 40 degrees,
> Until the outside ambient temp reaches over 80/85. The amonia frig
> can only reduce the temp about 40 to 50 degrees.
> It may not be as efficient at 90/95 outside degrees.
>
> Bill 88 FC
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Curt Sprenger
> wrote:
> > With the frig. full of food, the setting all the way cold, and
> operating
> > for more than a day, what should the temperature be inside the
> frig?
> >
> > Curt Sprenger 1987 PT38, Anaheim Hills, Calif.
> >
>

[Bruce Morris]

Curt, when I was a Hospital Corpsman we used to have to check the refrigerator
temps and they had to be 41 degrees F or lower to meet food safety standards.
So as long as they are below 41 degrees you should be OK.

Bruce Morris (919)872-7635
Webmaster - Wanderlodge Owners Online
1983 WL FC35RB

FMCA: 7142s Ham Radio: KI4ME
Vietnam Vet - 1966-67 'Doc' (Navy Corpsman) 3rd MarDiv.


> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Curt Sprenger
> wrote:
> > With the frig. full of food, the setting all the way cold, and
> operating
> > for more than a day, what should the temperature be inside the
> frig?
> >
> > Curt Sprenger 1987 PT38, Anaheim Hills, Calif.
> >
>



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Curt Sprenger]

Thanks Bruce. The thermometer in our frig. reads 40/41 degrees so I'm
going to be happy with that for now. It's s cheap thermometer so
accuracy is questionable.

Curt Sprenger 1987 PT38, Anaheim Hills, Calif.



Bruce Morris wrote:

> Curt, when I was a Hospital Corpsman we used to have to check the
> refrigerator temps and they had to be 41 degrees F or lower to meet
> food safety standards.
> So as long as they are below 41 degrees you should be OK.
>
> Bruce Morris (919)872-7635
> Webmaster - Wanderlodge Owners Online
> 1983 WL FC35RB
>
> FMCA: 7142s Ham Radio: KI4ME
> Vietnam Vet - 1966-67 'Doc' (Navy Corpsman) 3rd MarDiv.
>
>
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Curt Sprenger
> > wrote:
> > > With the frig. full of food, the setting all the way cold, and
> > operating
> > > for more than a day, what should the temperature be inside the
> > frig?
> > >
> > > Curt Sprenger 1987 PT38, Anaheim Hills, Calif.
> > >
> >
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS Recreational vehicles Wanderlodge Automotive
> maintenance
> Recreational vehicle dealer Used recreational vehicles
> Automotive radiators
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
> a.. Visit your group "WanderlodgeForum" on the web.
>
> b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> WanderlodgeForum-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> Service.
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>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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>
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[Ralph L. Fullenwider]

Curt:

The freezer should be between 0F and 9F. The lower compartment should be
between 34F and 39F. Remember to leave air gaps between food stuffs so air
can circulate.

Safe travels,

Ralph
Ralph's RV Solutions
http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index


At 08:14 AM 8/11/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>With the frig. full of food, the setting all the way cold, and operating
>for more than a day, what should the temperature be inside the frig?
>
>Curt Sprenger 1987 PT38, Anaheim Hills, Calif.
>
>

[Ralph L. Fullenwider]

Good to hear, Troy. The fan should have a thermostat on it inline should
come on about 95F or so, that is give or take.

Safe travels,

Ralph

At 02:13 PM 8/11/2005 +0000, you wrote:
>That worked! Thanks Ralph.
>
>How about the refrigerator cooling fan, mounted behind the fridge. Is
>the fan thermostatically controlled?
>
>
>Troy, Waconia MN
>1983 FC33
>
>
>