no gas, no hot water

[putneyflash]

I have a 1983 fc-35, I bought after hearing so much about
wanderlodge.
Seems like I have more things not working than i do working.
I have several problems
1. No gas I gave narrowed it down to the sloenid valve, but can't get
it to reset, it won't move at all. Any ideas.?
2. no hot water i have voltage to the junction box, but no amp draw,
any one ever replace an heating element in one of these heaters>
3. someone said run two air intake lines out the front to get cool
intake air and more volume.How?
4. Whats the larest on the backup camera? anyone got one fixed or
replaced recently

thanks for your help
re brake

[Henry Jay Hannigan]

--- Hang in there..experts will answer your questions and help you in
due course. You did right buying a bird over plastic..just takes a
bit of time to de-bug it and then you will have one of the best
coaches that everyone in the campground will envy!!
regards,
Hank Hannigan
90SP36

In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "putneyflash" wrote:
> I have a 1983 fc-35, I bought after hearing so much about
> wanderlodge.
> Seems like I have more things not working than i do working.
> I have several problems
> 1. No gas I gave narrowed it down to the sloenid valve, but can't
get
> it to reset, it won't move at all. Any ideas.?
> 2. no hot water i have voltage to the junction box, but no amp draw,
> any one ever replace an heating element in one of these heaters>
> 3. someone said run two air intake lines out the front to get cool
> intake air and more volume.How?
> 4. Whats the larest on the backup camera? anyone got one fixed or
> replaced recently
>
> thanks for your help
> re brake

[Tom Warner]

1. I assume you mean the solenoid behind the refrigerator that requires
12VDC to set. This solenoid is accessable from the outside access door. .
Check, with a voltmeter there to see if there is 12VDC. If there is 12VDC
there make sure that the LP is turned on in the outside valve near the LP
tank.

2. You can get new heating elements at almost any RV dealers and they are
easy to replace.

3. If your 83FC35 is as crowded as mine there is very little room to run
an additional air scoop. I believe Mike Hohenstein ran one for his.

4. I rebuilt my backup camera and it works fine now. Do you have any idea
which part is bad on yours, the camera or the TV portion. Can you get TV
channels on your TV when the ignition is turned off?

I would be glad to speak to you via phone about your problems as more then
likely I have already been through the problems you are experiencing. Just
send me your phone number off forum.

tom
1982 FC35
Vernon Center,NY

At 01:15 AM 9/4/2005 +0000, you wrote:
>I have a 1983 fc-35, I bought after hearing so much about
>wanderlodge.
>Seems like I have more things not working than i do working.
>I have several problems
>1. No gas I gave narrowed it down to the sloenid valve, but can't get
>it to reset, it won't move at all. Any ideas.?
>2. no hot water i have voltage to the junction box, but no amp draw,
>any one ever replace an heating element in one of these heaters>
>3. someone said run two air intake lines out the front to get cool
>intake air and more volume.How?
>4. Whats the larest on the backup camera? anyone got one fixed or
>replaced recently
>
>thanks for your help
>re brake
>
>
>
>
>
>
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[Ralph L. Fullenwider]

Hello??

The solenoid is controlled by an LP sensor located near the booth or under
the refrigerator. This supplies the 12 vdc to the solenoid valve that shuts
off LP to all your LP systems. You should get a green LED when the button
is pushed, and at times it may sound an alarm if it has not been actuated
in some time. Also it can some times be cleared by blowing a short blast of
air from the lungs into the hole next to the button to clear dust from the
sensor.

Hot water: Even though the 110 VAC breaker is on and you measure voltage
coming out of the panel, that voltage goes to a relay located in a 4x4
electrical junction box, usually under the bed. This relay is a 12 vdc coil
relay and is activated by a hot 12vdc presence on one side and the other
side of the coil goes to a sensor located in the out side of the water
heater and supplies a ground potential when water is present in the pipes.
This ground wire does corrode up and break off from time to time. Point is,
the relay has to be picked up to allow the 110VAC to pass through the
contacts to the ECO and temp sensor then on to the heater coil.

The above is the sequence of operation for that circuit, so next thing to
do is locate the relay, then using am VOM check for 110VAC on the contacts
of the relay, then follow it to the ECO then thermostat and finally the
heater coil. This will tell you exactly where your missing the voltage.
Once you get to the heater coil and you have voltage then you know the
heating element needs replacing and that is not an easy chore in most
cases. If you have an old water heater (original) now may be a good time to
replace it with an Atwood EH-911, 11 gallon unit which will or should drop
right in and some minor plumbing changes made and your set to go.

Safe travels,

Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm

At 01:15 AM 9/4/2005 +0000, you wrote:
>I have a 1983 fc-35, I bought after hearing so much about
>wanderlodge.
>Seems like I have more things not working than i do working.
>I have several problems
>1. No gas I gave narrowed it down to the sloenid valve, but can't get
>it to reset, it won't move at all. Any ideas.?
>2. no hot water i have voltage to the junction box, but no amp draw,
>any one ever replace an heating element in one of these heaters>
>3. someone said run two air intake lines out the front to get cool
>intake air and more volume.How?
>4. Whats the larest on the backup camera? anyone got one fixed or
>replaced recently
>
>thanks for your help
>re brake
>
>

[mbulriss]

By now, you realize that you get a lot more responses when you
actually post your questions on the forum. Doesn't seem fair to
complain until then.

Since you have gotten several answers on the first three questions, I
will comment on the backup camera. You didn't realy indicate what's
wrong, so we'll start at ground zero. As Tom said, do you get a
television picture on the monitor when the key is off, but the monitor
is on? If so, then the monitor is functioning. If not, then it could
be either the tuner section or the tube section, which may be
repairable or not, but more probably time for a whole assembly change
to new system.

Based on the way you phrased your question, I'll assume that the
monitor works on TV but not on the backup camera when the key is on.
You can start debugging from the camera end or monitor end, but the
best first step might be to make sure you have 12V power at the
camera. If not, there's the first problem to fix. Once you have 12v
at the camera, see if you have a picture upfront. If not take the
output feed from the camera directly into the video input of a known
good TV to double check the camera. You will need a twist lock coax
connector (ethernet thin net?) to RCA converter plug for this
connection. Switch the TV to video input and see if you get a picture.
If not, bad camera. You can replace with virtually any 12v powered
camera, B/w or color as you wish - the monitor upfront is a color TV.
One caution on replacing the camera: if you get a very low light
camera with auto iris, you could get "white flaring" when exposed to
very bright sunlight. You then might need a polarizing filter to
allow the auto iris to compensate for the bright sunlight.

If you get a picture directly off the camera test, then you need to
test the coax run from the camera and the tuner input section. At the
front end, you can test the camera input to the tuner section in the
overhead bay over the driver by unscrewing the coax connector from the
camera in the back (that is on the upper right side of the tuner unit)
and directly feeding in a feed from a camcorder. You will need a RCA
to screw on coax converter plug. If you get a picture on the screen
from the camcorder with the key on and the tuner on, then the tuner
portion is OK. If not, then the coax input board on the tuner will
need need repair. Again, this assumes that the TV monitor worked in
the first step.

If everything worked up to now, the it is narrowed down to a bad coax
cable. At this point, you can test the coax run in two ways. You can
hook the camcorder into the camera end of the coax or hook up the
original camera again. Feed the coax end at the tuner into the video
of the small TV you were testing the camera with. Hooking it back up
to the known good monitor is also an option. With everything else
working, it almost has to be a bad coax run. If you get a picture on
this test, then there may have been some corrosion on the connectors
that has now been cleaned off by the various testing. If not, then it
is in fact the coax that is bad and needs to be replaced.

Good luck
Mike Bulriss
83 PT40 "Stagecoach" - For Sale
91 PT40 "Texas Minivan" - currently at Buckhorn Lake Resort in
Kerrville, TX

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "putneyflash"
wrote:
> I have a 1983 fc-35, I bought after hearing so much about
> wanderlodge.
> Seems like I have more things not working than i do working.
> I have several problems
> 1. No gas I gave narrowed it down to the sloenid valve, but can't get
> it to reset, it won't move at all. Any ideas.?
> 2. no hot water i have voltage to the junction box, but no amp draw,
> any one ever replace an heating element in one of these heaters>
> 3. someone said run two air intake lines out the front to get cool
> intake air and more volume.How?
> 4. Whats the larest on the backup camera? anyone got one fixed or
> replaced recently
>
> thanks for your help
> re brake

[Henry Jay Hannigan]

---MIKE:
I see you are a member of the two bird club. I have been there! No
worry..all birds sell, just takes a bit of time. Someone will come
along out of the blue and bam..it will be sold! Good luck.
Hank
90SP36
sold 77FC33 after a bit of time
also...thanks to TOM if reading this.
In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "mbulriss" <mbulriss@y...>
wrote:
> By now, you realize that you get a lot more responses when you
> actually post your questions on the forum. Doesn't seem fair to
> complain until then.
>
> Since you have gotten several answers on the first three
questions, I
> will comment on the backup camera. You didn't realy indicate
what's
> wrong, so we'll start at ground zero. As Tom said, do you get a
> television picture on the monitor when the key is off, but the
monitor
> is on? If so, then the monitor is functioning. If not, then it
could
> be either the tuner section or the tube section, which may be
> repairable or not, but more probably time for a whole assembly
change
> to new system.
>
> Based on the way you phrased your question, I'll assume that the
> monitor works on TV but not on the backup camera when the key is
on.
> You can start debugging from the camera end or monitor end, but the
> best first step might be to make sure you have 12V power at the
> camera. If not, there's the first problem to fix. Once you have
12v
> at the camera, see if you have a picture upfront. If not take the
> output feed from the camera directly into the video input of a
known
> good TV to double check the camera. You will need a twist lock
coax
> connector (ethernet thin net?) to RCA converter plug for this
> connection. Switch the TV to video input and see if you get a
picture.
> If not, bad camera. You can replace with virtually any 12v
powered
> camera, B/w or color as you wish - the monitor upfront is a color
TV.
> One caution on replacing the camera: if you get a very low light
> camera with auto iris, you could get "white flaring" when exposed
to
> very bright sunlight. You then might need a polarizing filter to
> allow the auto iris to compensate for the bright sunlight.
>
> If you get a picture directly off the camera test, then you need to
> test the coax run from the camera and the tuner input section. At
the
> front end, you can test the camera input to the tuner section in
the
> overhead bay over the driver by unscrewing the coax connector from
the
> camera in the back (that is on the upper right side of the tuner
unit)
> and directly feeding in a feed from a camcorder. You will need a
RCA
> to screw on coax converter plug. If you get a picture on the
screen
> from the camcorder with the key on and the tuner on, then the tuner
> portion is OK. If not, then the coax input board on the tuner will
> need need repair. Again, this assumes that the TV monitor worked
in
> the first step.
>
> If everything worked up to now, the it is narrowed down to a bad
coax
> cable. At this point, you can test the coax run in two ways. You
can
> hook the camcorder into the camera end of the coax or hook up the
> original camera again. Feed the coax end at the tuner into the
video
> of the small TV you were testing the camera with. Hooking it back
up
> to the known good monitor is also an option. With everything else
> working, it almost has to be a bad coax run. If you get a
picture on
> this test, then there may have been some corrosion on the
connectors
> that has now been cleaned off by the various testing. If not,
then it
> is in fact the coax that is bad and needs to be replaced.
>
> Good luck
> Mike Bulriss
> 83 PT40 "Stagecoach" - For Sale
> 91 PT40 "Texas Minivan" - currently at Buckhorn Lake Resort in
> Kerrville, TX
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "putneyflash"
> wrote:
> > I have a 1983 fc-35, I bought after hearing so much about
> > wanderlodge.
> > Seems like I have more things not working than i do working.
> > I have several problems
> > 1. No gas I gave narrowed it down to the sloenid valve, but
can't get
> > it to reset, it won't move at all. Any ideas.?
> > 2. no hot water i have voltage to the junction box, but no amp
draw,
> > any one ever replace an heating element in one of these heaters>
> > 3. someone said run two air intake lines out the front to get
cool
> > intake air and more volume.How?
> > 4. Whats the larest on the backup camera? anyone got one fixed
or
> > replaced recently
> >
> > thanks for your help
> > re brake

[mbulriss]

Hank,

Thanks for the encouragement on getting out of the Two Bird Club. I'm
ready to let Guereasko become the new president of the club!

I know you have seen Stagecoach and as someone else told me, the first
person that comes and looks at Stagecoach, it will be gone. I just
listed it about ten days ago on VintageBrds and I have had 4 calls on
it from people that want to come and see it, so I expect it to be gone
soon.

By the way, you need to go to http://photos.yahoo.com/mbulriss where I
have photos on Stagecoach and the new Bird. John Benham says our new
one looks identical to your new SP. Check it out in the photos.

When are we going to see you and Naty at another Lone Star Birds
rally? There's one in October and December, hint, hint.


Mike Bulriss
83 PT40 "Stagecoach" - For Sale
91 PT40 "Texas Minivan" - Looks like Hank's!
at Buckhorn Lake Resort, Kerrville, TX




--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Henry Jay Hannigan"
wrote:
> ---MIKE:
> I see you are a member of the two bird club. I have been there! No
> worry..all birds sell, just takes a bit of time. Someone will come
> along out of the blue and bam..it will be sold! Good luck.
> Hank
> 90SP36
> sold 77FC33 after a bit of time
> also...thanks to TOM if reading this.
> In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "mbulriss" <mbulriss@y...>
> wrote:
> > By now, you realize that you get a lot more responses when you
> > actually post your questions on the forum. Doesn't seem fair to
> > complain until then.
> >
> > Since you have gotten several answers on the first three
> questions, I
> > will comment on the backup camera. You didn't realy indicate
> what's
> > wrong, so we'll start at ground zero. As Tom said, do you get a
> > television picture on the monitor when the key is off, but the
> monitor
> > is on? If so, then the monitor is functioning. If not, then it
> could
> > be either the tuner section or the tube section, which may be
> > repairable or not, but more probably time for a whole assembly
> change
> > to new system.
> >
> > Based on the way you phrased your question, I'll assume that the
> > monitor works on TV but not on the backup camera when the key is
> on.
> > You can start debugging from the camera end or monitor end, but the
> > best first step might be to make sure you have 12V power at the
> > camera. If not, there's the first problem to fix. Once you have
> 12v
> > at the camera, see if you have a picture upfront. If not take the
> > output feed from the camera directly into the video input of a
> known
> > good TV to double check the camera. You will need a twist lock
> coax
> > connector (ethernet thin net?) to RCA converter plug for this
> > connection. Switch the TV to video input and see if you get a
> picture.
> > If not, bad camera. You can replace with virtually any 12v
> powered
> > camera, B/w or color as you wish - the monitor upfront is a color
> TV.
> > One caution on replacing the camera: if you get a very low light
> > camera with auto iris, you could get "white flaring" when exposed
> to
> > very bright sunlight. You then might need a polarizing filter to
> > allow the auto iris to compensate for the bright sunlight.
> >
> > If you get a picture directly off the camera test, then you need to
> > test the coax run from the camera and the tuner input section. At
> the
> > front end, you can test the camera input to the tuner section in
> the
> > overhead bay over the driver by unscrewing the coax connector from
> the
> > camera in the back (that is on the upper right side of the tuner
> unit)
> > and directly feeding in a feed from a camcorder. You will need a
> RCA
> > to screw on coax converter plug. If you get a picture on the
> screen
> > from the camcorder with the key on and the tuner on, then the tuner
> > portion is OK. If not, then the coax input board on the tuner will
> > need need repair. Again, this assumes that the TV monitor worked
> in
> > the first step.
> >
> > If everything worked up to now, the it is narrowed down to a bad
> coax
> > cable. At this point, you can test the coax run in two ways. You
> can
> > hook the camcorder into the camera end of the coax or hook up the
> > original camera again. Feed the coax end at the tuner into the
> video
> > of the small TV you were testing the camera with. Hooking it back
> up
> > to the known good monitor is also an option. With everything else
> > working, it almost has to be a bad coax run. If you get a
> picture on
> > this test, then there may have been some corrosion on the
> connectors
> > that has now been cleaned off by the various testing. If not,
> then it
> > is in fact the coax that is bad and needs to be replaced.
> >
> > Good luck
> > Mike Bulriss
> > 83 PT40 "Stagecoach" - For Sale
> > 91 PT40 "Texas Minivan" - currently at Buckhorn Lake Resort in
> > Kerrville, TX
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "putneyflash"
> > wrote:
> > > I have a 1983 fc-35, I bought after hearing so much about
> > > wanderlodge.
> > > Seems like I have more things not working than i do working.
> > > I have several problems
> > > 1. No gas I gave narrowed it down to the sloenid valve, but
> can't get
> > > it to reset, it won't move at all. Any ideas.?
> > > 2. no hot water i have voltage to the junction box, but no amp
> draw,
> > > any one ever replace an heating element in one of these heaters>
> > > 3. someone said run two air intake lines out the front to get
> cool
> > > intake air and more volume.How?
> > > 4. Whats the larest on the backup camera? anyone got one fixed
> or
> > > replaced recently
> > >
> > > thanks for your help
> > > re brake

[mbulriss]

FYI, there is a bunch of information on 3208 topics in the Files
section of the WandelodgeForum that may be of use to you. There is
one on increasing airflow on a 3208 that you might get some hints for
your airflow question.

Mike Bulriss
83 PT40 "Stagecoach" - For Sale
91 PT40 "Texas Minivan"
on the road in Texas



--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "putneyflash"
wrote:
> I have a 1983 fc-35, I bought after hearing so much about
> wanderlodge.
> Seems like I have more things not working than i do working.
> I have several problems
> 1. No gas I gave narrowed it down to the sloenid valve, but can't get
> it to reset, it won't move at all. Any ideas.?
> 2. no hot water i have voltage to the junction box, but no amp draw,
> any one ever replace an heating element in one of these heaters>
> 3. someone said run two air intake lines out the front to get cool
> intake air and more volume.How?
> 4. Whats the larest on the backup camera? anyone got one fixed or
> replaced recently
>
> thanks for your help
> re brake

[Henry Jay Hannigan]

---MIKE:
Your new coach looks 100times better than mine. I love that dining
couch, always wanted one like that. Yea, John Benham was too kind
about my coach, yours really looks great!
I was also impressed looking at your old coach. You are right, as
soon as someone visits it, they will buy it!!
Sorry about the Texas rally as we will be gone over yonder by
October & December..We really enjoyed the last Texas rally we
attended near Padre Island a few years ago. Heck, I'm part Texan as
I graduated from UT Austin years ago!!! Naty says hello to all the
Texans. She said something about everything being big in Texas. Oh
well good luck on the BIRDS. They both look great.
regards,
Hank
90SP36




In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "mbulriss" <mbulriss@y...>
wrote:
> Hank,
>
> Thanks for the encouragement on getting out of the Two Bird Club.
I'm
> ready to let Guereasko become the new president of the club!
>
> I know you have seen Stagecoach and as someone else told me, the
first
> person that comes and looks at Stagecoach, it will be gone. I just
> listed it about ten days ago on VintageBrds and I have had 4 calls
on
> it from people that want to come and see it, so I expect it to be
gone
> soon.
>
> By the way, you need to go to http://photos.yahoo.com/mbulriss
where I
> have photos on Stagecoach and the new Bird. John Benham says our
new
> one looks identical to your new SP. Check it out in the photos.
>
> When are we going to see you and Naty at another Lone Star Birds
> rally? There's one in October and December, hint, hint.
>
>
> Mike Bulriss
> 83 PT40 "Stagecoach" - For Sale
> 91 PT40 "Texas Minivan" - Looks like Hank's!
> at Buckhorn Lake Resort, Kerrville, TX
>
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Henry Jay Hannigan"
> wrote:
> > ---MIKE:
> > I see you are a member of the two bird club. I have been
there! No
> > worry..all birds sell, just takes a bit of time. Someone will
come
> > along out of the blue and bam..it will be sold! Good luck.
> > Hank
> > 90SP36
> > sold 77FC33 after a bit of time
> > also...thanks to TOM if reading this.
> > In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "mbulriss" <mbulriss@y...>
> > wrote:
> > > By now, you realize that you get a lot more responses when you
> > > actually post your questions on the forum. Doesn't seem fair
to
> > > complain until then.
> > >
> > > Since you have gotten several answers on the first three
> > questions, I
> > > will comment on the backup camera. You didn't realy indicate
> > what's
> > > wrong, so we'll start at ground zero. As Tom said, do you get
a
> > > television picture on the monitor when the key is off, but the
> > monitor
> > > is on? If so, then the monitor is functioning. If not, then
it
> > could
> > > be either the tuner section or the tube section, which may be
> > > repairable or not, but more probably time for a whole assembly
> > change
> > > to new system.
> > >
> > > Based on the way you phrased your question, I'll assume that
the
> > > monitor works on TV but not on the backup camera when the key
is
> > on.
> > > You can start debugging from the camera end or monitor end,
but the
> > > best first step might be to make sure you have 12V power at the
> > > camera. If not, there's the first problem to fix. Once you
have
> > 12v
> > > at the camera, see if you have a picture upfront. If not take
the
> > > output feed from the camera directly into the video input of a
> > known
> > > good TV to double check the camera. You will need a twist
lock
> > coax
> > > connector (ethernet thin net?) to RCA converter plug for this
> > > connection. Switch the TV to video input and see if you get a
> > picture.
> > > If not, bad camera. You can replace with virtually any 12v
> > powered
> > > camera, B/w or color as you wish - the monitor upfront is a
color
> > TV.
> > > One caution on replacing the camera: if you get a very low
light
> > > camera with auto iris, you could get "white flaring" when
exposed
> > to
> > > very bright sunlight. You then might need a polarizing filter
to
> > > allow the auto iris to compensate for the bright sunlight.
> > >
> > > If you get a picture directly off the camera test, then you
need to
> > > test the coax run from the camera and the tuner input
section. At
> > the
> > > front end, you can test the camera input to the tuner section
in
> > the
> > > overhead bay over the driver by unscrewing the coax connector
from
> > the
> > > camera in the back (that is on the upper right side of the
tuner
> > unit)
> > > and directly feeding in a feed from a camcorder. You will
need a
> > RCA
> > > to screw on coax converter plug. If you get a picture on the
> > screen
> > > from the camcorder with the key on and the tuner on, then the
tuner
> > > portion is OK. If not, then the coax input board on the tuner
will
> > > need need repair. Again, this assumes that the TV monitor
worked
> > in
> > > the first step.
> > >
> > > If everything worked up to now, the it is narrowed down to a
bad
> > coax
> > > cable. At this point, you can test the coax run in two ways.
You
> > can
> > > hook the camcorder into the camera end of the coax or hook up
the
> > > original camera again. Feed the coax end at the tuner into the
> > video
> > > of the small TV you were testing the camera with. Hooking it
back
> > up
> > > to the known good monitor is also an option. With everything
else
> > > working, it almost has to be a bad coax run. If you get a
> > picture on
> > > this test, then there may have been some corrosion on the
> > connectors
> > > that has now been cleaned off by the various testing. If not,
> > then it
> > > is in fact the coax that is bad and needs to be replaced.
> > >
> > > Good luck
> > > Mike Bulriss
> > > 83 PT40 "Stagecoach" - For Sale
> > > 91 PT40 "Texas Minivan" - currently at Buckhorn Lake Resort in
> > > Kerrville, TX
> > >
> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "putneyflash"
> > > wrote:
> > > > I have a 1983 fc-35, I bought after hearing so much about
> > > > wanderlodge.
> > > > Seems like I have more things not working than i do working.
> > > > I have several problems
> > > > 1. No gas I gave narrowed it down to the sloenid valve, but
> > can't get
> > > > it to reset, it won't move at all. Any ideas.?
> > > > 2. no hot water i have voltage to the junction box, but no
amp
> > draw,
> > > > any one ever replace an heating element in one of these
heaters>
> > > > 3. someone said run two air intake lines out the front to
get
> > cool
> > > > intake air and more volume.How?
> > > > 4. Whats the larest on the backup camera? anyone got one
fixed
> > or
> > > > replaced recently
> > > >
> > > > thanks for your help
> > > > re brake

[fl_bluebird_1983]

Not sure if it has been said before, but for hot water heater check red
switch at the end of the bed, it must be on. For the additional air
intake check file section for modification pictures.

Thanks
Bruce Campbell
Clearwater, FL
83'FC 35 SB
"Blue Skies"


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "putneyflash"
wrote:
> I have a 1983 fc-35, I bought after hearing so much about
> wanderlodge.
> Seems like I have more things not working than i do working.
> I have several problems
> 1. No gas I gave narrowed it down to the sloenid valve, but can't get
> it to reset, it won't move at all. Any ideas.?
> 2. no hot water i have voltage to the junction box, but no amp draw,
> any one ever replace an heating element in one of these heaters>
> 3. someone said run two air intake lines out the front to get cool
> intake air and more volume.How?
> 4. Whats the larest on the backup camera? anyone got one fixed or
> replaced recently
>
> thanks for your help
> re brake