Overheating 3208 in a 90SP36

[Scott]

Jim,I realize you are asking a specific person a question but let me
share an experiance with you. I to had a blown head gasket in our
3208T. I replaced both heads, gaskets etc. I also noted that my boost
did not register what I thought it should (+/-15) so I asked the CAT
guys to check it very closely. They hooked up a meter (mercury
manometer I think) to check for sure. It turns out my dash guage is
off it kinda "flutters". They assured me the turbp was spooling up
and working the way it should. Could you guage be off as well?

All I know is the coach runs much better than when we bought it. I
can push it to a over 70mph but I NEVER drive it that fast. (fast
don't last, offshore experiences) It was imperitive to me to have the
motor set up correctly to CAT specs, no telling who was in there
before. After, new heads, valve lash, fuel pump check to see if it
was opening fully, rpm set to factory specs etc etc. The coach runs
great now.

ScottB
86FC35RB 4 SALE
SC

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Jim" wrote:
>
> I built and installed a custom made transmission cooler by using
two six
> foot long 3/4" inside diameter fined heat exchanger tubes. I built
brackets
> and stacked the tubes vertically aft of the transmission on the
passenger
> side of the frame. It works so well I think the transmission helps
cool the
> main radiator. I am going to BAJA for a few days, when I get back I
will
> post a picture.
>
> I had overheating problems on the old engine so I put a
radiator
> spray system, water injection into the pressure side of the intake
manifold,
> and an auxiliary radiator mounted amidships between the frame with a
> thermostatically controlled electric fan. The radiator cools the
water
> circulated to the water heater, or the chassis heaters before
returning to
> the engine. Although all these things helped, I still would see
temperatures
> over 200 degrees and would have to use all means available to keep
from
> overheating. It turned out I had overlooked the main problem. I
bought the
> coach with 5000 miles on a fresh rebuilt 3208. It turned out I had
either a
> blown head gasket or a crack somewhere because I was getting
exhaust gases
> in the radiator. This is one thing that is guaranteed to cause
overheating.
>
> I do have a question for Jeff though, I just installed a
complete
> 3208 250hp drop in my 82 FC and it runs very cool, yet I am only
getting 9
> PSI of boost. Is there something that is set to low on the engine
from RIVA
> or did Ernie's coach have some tricks done to it? If so what magic
might I
> do to get the boost up to 15psi without using propane, or turning
the
> country side black?
>
> Thanks for any help
>
> Jim
> 1982 FCRB
> Yorba Linda, CA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Eric Johnson
> Sent: Friday, August 11, 2006 7:51 PM
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Overheating 3208 in a 90SP36
>
> Hi Jeff,
> Thanks for the information. If I understand you correctly, Ernie's
bird had
> the additional
> cooler tied into the oil line returning from the radiator on the
way back to
> the
> transmission. If this is so, you wouldn't need as big an air cooler
since
> you aren't taking
> on the whole cooling load from the radiator. Is that right?
> Regards, Eric
> 84FC35SBWL2
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> , "Jeff Miller"

> wrote:
> >
> > The turbo engine could use a tranny cooler in more extreme
> > conditions, but I felt that the cooler installation in Ernie's
> > old 'bird, an air/oil cooler on the bottom surface of the RF
> > compartment with a rock-guard was an excellent addition on the
outlet
> > of the radiator-cooler. With the 250hp, 4.63:1 gears, towing, and
a
> > lead-foot I never saw alarming temperatures in that rig running
15psi
> > boost on any mountain I could find. The airflow under that
> > compartment is excellent, and high-pressure (high-density),
enough
> > that you'll notice the foam insulation is eroded away on those
> > compartments in many coaches. The air there is pressurized by the
air
> > trying to get around the front of the moving coach, and having to
> > squeeze between the ground and bumper. The differential in speed
> > between the coach and the road makes the air quite turbulent,
also
> > good for cooling.
> >
> > Try synthetic fluids also, most people on RV forums agree that it
> > runs cooler in automatic transmissions.
> >
> > - Jeff Miller
> > in Holland, MI
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> , "Eric Johnson"

> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello Ernie & Company,
> > > I appreciate all the suggestions on installing a separate
> > transmission cooler. From the
> > > website Tom recommended as cooler source they recommend a two
pass
> > cooler w/
> > > dimensions of 22"X24"X1-1/2" plus a fan. There is quite a bit
of
> > space in between frame
> > > rails about 1/2 way back if you mount it in a horizontal
> > orientation above the drive shaft
> > > and in front of retarder. Don't understand comments about the
> > rediline compartment.
> > > You guys thinking to cut the compartment walls away and use the
> > space for the cooler?
> > > Regards, Eric
> > > 84FC35SBWL2
> > >
> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> , erniecarpet@ wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I believe the rediline was still in my FC. That is an
excellent
> > place for
> > > > another air intake and you Cat would love you for the
> > modification.
> > > >
> > > > Ernie Ekberg
> > > > 83 PT40
> > > > Livingston, Montana
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> >
>