Dometic Refrigerator Tips

[Eric Johnson]

Thanks Tom,
I guess the toaster is one of the options the original buyer of this WL2 decided
they could
live without so I don't have one. Think a new fan will help along the lines of
Ralph's and
Curt's suggestions.
Regards, Eric
84FC35SBWL2

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Tom Warner wrote:
>
> Just a thought but if you have the optional
> toaster that extends into the refrigerator cavity
> from the left sidewall of the kiitchen it
> restricts the smooth flow of air from the outside
> panel up thru the cooling coils to the roof vent.
> Take it out as I did and it makes a big difference.
>
> Tom Warner
> Vernon Center,NY
> 1985 PT 40
>
>
> At 06:50 PM 8/21/2006, you wrote:
> >Replacement Fan...Over a year ago I bought a surplus computer fan,
> >$4.00, and installed it using a household thermostat. It's set to run
> >when temp. gets to 90 degrees. It's still working, and quiet too.
> >
> >Curt Sprenger 1987 PT38, Anaheim Hills, Calif.
> >
> >
> >
> >Eric Johnson wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Ralph,
> > > Thanks for the information. It seems the unit came back from the dead
> > > after I shut off the
> > > 12 vdc to the back of the coach and then put it back in service. It
> > > took a long time to cool
> > > back down but then we keep having 100+ºF days which doesn't help. I
> > > don't think the fan
> > > located in the outside compartment is working anymore. Got any info on
> > > a good
> > > replacement for this fan? Is it on a thermostat or should it run when
> > > I flip the switch in the
> > > panel next to the kitchen sink, regardless of temperature? Better
> > > circulation through there
> > > might improve cooling on these hot days.
> > > Regards, Eric in San Antonio
> > > 84FC35SBWL2
> > >
> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > > , "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hello Eric:
> > > >
> > > > Lets explore some basic troubleshooting on this one.
> > > >
> > > > First, the button at the bottom that was red, now green, after
> > > resetting is
> > > > for the LP only. Your refer, if not on automatic needs to be
> > > switched over
> > > > to LP at the eye brow of (panel) of the refer.
> > > > 12 vdc
> > > > Now, no matter if on ac or lp, the refer board still needs 12 vdc to
> > > power
> > > > it up. So you need to check to be sure there is 12 vdc at the terminal
> > > > strip in the out side refer compartment. The terminal strip is at
> > > the base
> > > > of the refer just under the circuit board. If 12 vdc is present,
> > > there are
> > > > 2 or 3 fuses on the circuit board that needs to be checked.
> > > >
> > > > 110 vac
> > > > Next, you need to ohm out the 110vac heater located beside the
> > > boiler tube
> > > > on the right. Find the wiring and trace to where the connectors are.
> > > making
> > > > sure power is off, undo the connectors and measure ohms across the 2
> > > > wires. You should read between 1.2 and 4 ohms, or a reading other
> > > than 0.
> > > > if the meter reads 0 then the heater is bad, replace it. If it ohms
> > > out,
> > > > then re connect the wires, apply 110 vac power, turn on the refer to
> > > manual
> > > > ac, then check for 110 vac at the connections going to the heater. The
> > > > boiler tube should be very warm to the touch or you can feel the insert
> > > > tube on the side of the boiler to see if it is getting hot.
> > > >
> > > > Lp.
> > > > Switch the eye brow to manual lp and you should hear a click click
> > > click of
> > > > the igniter/re igniter trying to ignite the lp flame. go out and
> > > make sure
> > > > it lights, you may have to remove the cover plate to see the flame
> > > or use a
> > > > mirror.
> > > >
> > > > If the AC heater is getting hot and the boiler tube is becoming
> > > warm, in 3
> > > > to 4 hours you should be able to feel the shelf plate in the refer
> > > getting
> > > > cold. If it remains warm or hot, then the coil unit of the refer is
> > > blocked
> > > > and time for a new unit.
> > > >
> > > > If you need a new unit. There was a recall on Norcold units, due to
> > > fires
> > > > starting, so be sure to check that model and serial numbers if you go
> > > > Norcold. Most techs and RV repair places are reluctant to even work on
> > > > Norcolds right now because of law suites.
> > > >
> > > > Personal I still think the Dometic is a better unit, but that is
> > > like tires
> > > > and insurance, everyone has their own ideas.
> > > >
> > > > Start with the voltage check and take it one step at a time.
> > > >
> > > > Safe travels,
> > > >
> > > > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > > > Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> > > > http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm
> > > <http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm>
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > > , "Eric Johnson"
> > > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Our original Dometic refrigerator has mysteriously quit cooling
> > > > > > while on shore power. I
> > > > > > > opened the door and found it was warm inside. Checked the light
> > > > > > at the bottom and it was
> > > > > > > showing red. I turned the unit off, waited awhile, turned it back
> > > > > > on and the light was green.
> > > > > > > Checked it a couple of hours later and still no cooling.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Any ideas on what might be the problem? I had the circuit board
> > > > > > replaced about 5 years ago
> > > > > > > and it has worked great ever since. Could it be I need a new
> > > > > > board again?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Thanks in advance for any help, suggestions.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Regards, Eric in San Antonio
> > > > > > > 84FC35SBWL2
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

[Eric Johnson]

Thanks Howard,
I think I'll try a couple of the computer cooling fans like Curt used. I've
found a good
source for these locally at Altex. They come from China, like just about
everything else,
but are well made and cheap. I looked at what Camping World has and agree there
are
better choices out there.
Regards, Eric
84FC35SBWL2
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Howard O. Truitt" wrote:
>
> Eric,
> BB has a replacement for the fan. They were reasonable on price compared to
Camping
World. It is a heavy built fan not a light plastic one.
> Howard Truitt
> Camilla, Ga.
> 86 PT40
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Eric Johnson
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 6:01 PM
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Dometic Refrigerator Tips
>
>
> Hi Ralph,
> Thanks for the information. It seems the unit came back from the dead after
I shut off
the
> 12 vdc to the back of the coach and then put it back in service. It took a
long time to
cool
> back down but then we keep having 100+ºF days which doesn't help. I don't
think the
fan
> located in the outside compartment is working anymore. Got any info on a
good
> replacement for this fan? Is it on a thermostat or should it run when I flip
the switch in
the
> panel next to the kitchen sink, regardless of temperature? Better
circulation through
there
> might improve cooling on these hot days.
> Regards, Eric in San Antonio
> 84FC35SBWL2
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
wrote:
> >
> > Hello Eric:
> >
> > Lets explore some basic troubleshooting on this one.
> >
> > First, the button at the bottom that was red, now green, after resetting
is
> > for the LP only. Your refer, if not on automatic needs to be switched over
> > to LP at the eye brow of (panel) of the refer.
> > 12 vdc
> > Now, no matter if on ac or lp, the refer board still needs 12 vdc to power
> > it up. So you need to check to be sure there is 12 vdc at the terminal
> > strip in the out side refer compartment. The terminal strip is at the base
> > of the refer just under the circuit board. If 12 vdc is present, there are
> > 2 or 3 fuses on the circuit board that needs to be checked.
> >
> > 110 vac
> > Next, you need to ohm out the 110vac heater located beside the boiler tube
> > on the right. Find the wiring and trace to where the connectors are.
making
> > sure power is off, undo the connectors and measure ohms across the 2
> > wires. You should read between 1.2 and 4 ohms, or a reading other than 0.
> > if the meter reads 0 then the heater is bad, replace it. If it ohms out,
> > then re connect the wires, apply 110 vac power, turn on the refer to
manual
> > ac, then check for 110 vac at the connections going to the heater. The
> > boiler tube should be very warm to the touch or you can feel the insert
> > tube on the side of the boiler to see if it is getting hot.
> >
> > Lp.
> > Switch the eye brow to manual lp and you should hear a click click click
of
> > the igniter/re igniter trying to ignite the lp flame. go out and make sure
> > it lights, you may have to remove the cover plate to see the flame or use
a
> > mirror.
> >
> > If the AC heater is getting hot and the boiler tube is becoming warm, in 3
> > to 4 hours you should be able to feel the shelf plate in the refer getting
> > cold. If it remains warm or hot, then the coil unit of the refer is
blocked
> > and time for a new unit.
> >
> > If you need a new unit. There was a recall on Norcold units, due to fires
> > starting, so be sure to check that model and serial numbers if you go
> > Norcold. Most techs and RV repair places are reluctant to even work on
> > Norcolds right now because of law suites.
> >
> > Personal I still think the Dometic is a better unit, but that is like
tires
> > and insurance, everyone has their own ideas.
> >
> > Start with the voltage check and take it one step at a time.
> >
> > Safe travels,
> >
> > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> > http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm
> >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Johnson"
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Our original Dometic refrigerator has mysteriously quit cooling
> > > > while on shore power. I
> > > > > opened the door and found it was warm inside. Checked the light
> > > > at the bottom and it was
> > > > > showing red. I turned the unit off, waited awhile, turned it back
> > > > on and the light was green.
> > > > > Checked it a couple of hours later and still no cooling.
> > > > >
> > > > > Any ideas on what might be the problem? I had the circuit board
> > > > replaced about 5 years ago
> > > > > and it has worked great ever since. Could it be I need a new
> > > > board again?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks in advance for any help, suggestions.
> > > > >
> > > > > Regards, Eric in San Antonio
> > > > > 84FC35SBWL2
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
>
>
> Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.10.9/416 - Release Date: 8/10/2006
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Tom Warner]

A couple of things will help. make sure that the
air that comes thru the side panel has to enter
thru the coils in the back. You can do this by
inserting another spacer between the outside
inner wall and the coils as close to the coils as
possible. Then make sure the fan pulls the cool
air up thru the coils and out the top vent. This will maximize the cooling.

Tom Warner
Vernon Center,NY
1985 PT 40


At 07:54 AM 8/22/2006, you wrote:
>Thanks Tom,
>I guess the toaster is one of the options the
>original buyer of this WL2 decided they could
>live without so I don't have one. Think a new
>fan will help along the lines of Ralph's and
>Curt's suggestions.
>Regards, Eric
>84FC35SBWL2
>
>--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Tom Warner wrote:
> >
> > Just a thought but if you have the optional
> > toaster that extends into the refrigerator cavity
> > from the left sidewall of the kiitchen it
> > restricts the smooth flow of air from the outside
> > panel up thru the cooling coils to the roof vent.
> > Take it out as I did and it makes a big difference.
> >
> > Tom Warner
> > Vernon Center,NY
> > 1985 PT 40
> >
> >
> > At 06:50 PM 8/21/2006, you wrote:
> > >Replacement Fan...Over a year ago I bought a surplus computer fan,
> > >$4.00, and installed it using a household thermostat. It's set to run
> > >when temp. gets to 90 degrees. It's still working, and quiet too.
> > >
> > >Curt Sprenger 1987 PT38, Anaheim Hills, Calif.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >Eric Johnson wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hi Ralph,
> > > > Thanks for the information. It seems the unit came back from the dead
> > > > after I shut off the
> > > > 12 vdc to the back of the coach and then put it back in service. It
> > > > took a long time to cool
> > > > back down but then we keep having 100+ºF days which doesn't help. I
> > > > don't think the fan
> > > > located in the outside compartment is working anymore. Got any info on
> > > > a good
> > > > replacement for this fan? Is it on a thermostat or should it run when
> > > > I flip the switch in the
> > > > panel next to the kitchen sink, regardless of temperature? Better
> > > > circulation through there
> > > > might improve cooling on these hot days.
> > > > Regards, Eric in San Antonio
> > > > 84FC35SBWL2
> > > >
> > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > > > , "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hello Eric:
> > > > >
> > > > > Lets explore some basic troubleshooting on this one.
> > > > >
> > > > > First, the button at the bottom that was red, now green, after
> > > > resetting is
> > > > > for the LP only. Your refer, if not on automatic needs to be
> > > > switched over
> > > > > to LP at the eye brow of (panel) of the refer.
> > > > > 12 vdc
> > > > > Now, no matter if on ac or lp, the refer board still needs 12 vdc to
> > > > power
> > > > > it up. So you need to check to be sure
> there is 12 vdc at the terminal
> > > > > strip in the out side refer compartment. The terminal strip is at
> > > > the base
> > > > > of the refer just under the circuit board. If 12 vdc is present,
> > > > there are
> > > > > 2 or 3 fuses on the circuit board that needs to be checked.
> > > > >
> > > > > 110 vac
> > > > > Next, you need to ohm out the 110vac heater located beside the
> > > > boiler tube
> > > > > on the right. Find the wiring and trace to where the connectors are.
> > > > making
> > > > > sure power is off, undo the connectors and measure ohms across the 2
> > > > > wires. You should read between 1.2 and 4 ohms, or a reading other
> > > > than 0.
> > > > > if the meter reads 0 then the heater is bad, replace it. If it ohms
> > > > out,
> > > > > then re connect the wires, apply 110 vac power, turn on the refer to
> > > > manual
> > > > > ac, then check for 110 vac at the
> connections going to the heater. The
> > > > > boiler tube should be very warm to the
> touch or you can feel the insert
> > > > > tube on the side of the boiler to see if it is getting hot.
> > > > >
> > > > > Lp.
> > > > > Switch the eye brow to manual lp and you should hear a click click
> > > > click of
> > > > > the igniter/re igniter trying to ignite the lp flame. go out and
> > > > make sure
> > > > > it lights, you may have to remove the cover plate to see the flame
> > > > or use a
> > > > > mirror.
> > > > >
> > > > > If the AC heater is getting hot and the boiler tube is becoming
> > > > warm, in 3
> > > > > to 4 hours you should be able to feel the shelf plate in the refer
> > > > getting
> > > > > cold. If it remains warm or hot, then the coil unit of the refer is
> > > > blocked
> > > > > and time for a new unit.
> > > > >
> > > > > If you need a new unit. There was a recall on Norcold units, due to
> > > > fires
> > > > > starting, so be sure to check that model and serial numbers if you go
> > > > > Norcold. Most techs and RV repair
> places are reluctant to even work on
> > > > > Norcolds right now because of law suites.
> > > > >
> > > > > Personal I still think the Dometic is a better unit, but that is
> > > > like tires
> > > > > and insurance, everyone has their own ideas.
> > > > >
> > > > > Start with the voltage check and take it one step at a time.
> > > > >
> > > > > Safe travels,
> > > > >
> > > > > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > > > > Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> > > > > http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm
> > > > <http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm>
> > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > > > , "Eric Johnson"
> > > > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Our original Dometic refrigerator has mysteriously quit cooling
> > > > > > > while on shore power. I
> > > > > > > > opened the door and found it was warm inside. Checked the light
> > > > > > > at the bottom and it was
> > > > > > > > showing red. I turned the unit
> off, waited awhile, turned it back
> > > > > > > on and the light was green.
> > > > > > > > Checked it a couple of hours later and still no cooling.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Any ideas on what might be the problem? I had the circuit board
> > > > > > > replaced about 5 years ago
> > > > > > > > and it has worked great ever since. Could it be I need a new
> > > > > > > board again?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Thanks in advance for any help, suggestions.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Regards, Eric in San Antonio
> > > > > > > > 84FC35SBWL2
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

[Curt Sprenger]

Another thing that helps to lower the frig. temp. is to place one or two
battery powered squirrel cage units inside the frig. to circulate the
air. I have the wireless temperature thingy and find that the frig.
temperature is cooler by at least 6 degrees using those fans vs. no
fans. I have seen days when the frig. temp. is 34 degrees when it's 90
degrees outside. Days with little door opening the temp. gets even
cooler, as low as 29 degrees.

Camping World sells the squirrel cage fans, about $16.00. They operate
for 30 days on 2 "D" cell batteries.

Curt Sprenger 1987 PT38, Anaheim Hills, Calif.



Tom Warner wrote:

> A couple of things will help. make sure that the
> air that comes thru the side panel has to enter
> thru the coils in the back. You can do this by
> inserting another spacer between the outside
> inner wall and the coils as close to the coils as
> possible. Then make sure the fan pulls the cool
> air up thru the coils and out the top vent. This will maximize the
> cooling.
>
> Tom Warner
> Vernon Center,NY
> 1985 PT 40
>
> At 07:54 AM 8/22/2006, you wrote:
> >Thanks Tom,
> >I guess the toaster is one of the options the
> >original buyer of this WL2 decided they could
> >live without so I don't have one. Think a new
> >fan will help along the lines of Ralph's and
> >Curt's suggestions.
> >Regards, Eric
> >84FC35SBWL2
> >
> >--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> , Tom Warner
> wrote:
> > >
> > > Just a thought but if you have the optional
> > > toaster that extends into the refrigerator cavity
> > > from the left sidewall of the kiitchen it
> > > restricts the smooth flow of air from the outside
> > > panel up thru the cooling coils to the roof vent.
> > > Take it out as I did and it makes a big difference.
> > >
> > > Tom Warner
> > > Vernon Center,NY
> > > 1985 PT 40
> > >
> > >
> > > At 06:50 PM 8/21/2006, you wrote:
> > > >Replacement Fan...Over a year ago I bought a surplus computer fan,
> > > >$4.00, and installed it using a household thermostat. It's set to run
> > > >when temp. gets to 90 degrees. It's still working, and quiet too.
> > > >
> > > >Curt Sprenger 1987 PT38, Anaheim Hills, Calif.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Eric Johnson wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Hi Ralph,
> > > > > Thanks for the information. It seems the unit came back from
> the dead
> > > > > after I shut off the
> > > > > 12 vdc to the back of the coach and then put it back in
> service. It
> > > > > took a long time to cool
> > > > > back down but then we keep having 100+ºF days which doesn't
> help. I
> > > > > don't think the fan
> > > > > located in the outside compartment is working anymore. Got any
> info on
> > > > > a good
> > > > > replacement for this fan? Is it on a thermostat or should it
> run when
> > > > > I flip the switch in the
> > > > > panel next to the kitchen sink, regardless of temperature? Better
> > > > > circulation through there
> > > > > might improve cooling on these hot days.
> > > > > Regards, Eric in San Antonio
> > > > > 84FC35SBWL2
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
>
> > > > > , "Ralph L.
> Fullenwider"
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Hello Eric:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Lets explore some basic troubleshooting on this one.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > First, the button at the bottom that was red, now green, after
> > > > > resetting is
> > > > > > for the LP only. Your refer, if not on automatic needs to be
> > > > > switched over
> > > > > > to LP at the eye brow of (panel) of the refer.
> > > > > > 12 vdc
> > > > > > Now, no matter if on ac or lp, the refer board still needs
> 12 vdc to
> > > > > power
> > > > > > it up. So you need to check to be sure
> > there is 12 vdc at the terminal
> > > > > > strip in the out side refer compartment. The terminal strip
> is at
> > > > > the base
> > > > > > of the refer just under the circuit board. If 12 vdc is present,
> > > > > there are
> > > > > > 2 or 3 fuses on the circuit board that needs to be checked.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > 110 vac
> > > > > > Next, you need to ohm out the 110vac heater located beside the
> > > > > boiler tube
> > > > > > on the right. Find the wiring and trace to where the
> connectors are.
> > > > > making
> > > > > > sure power is off, undo the connectors and measure ohms
> across the 2
> > > > > > wires. You should read between 1.2 and 4 ohms, or a reading
> other
> > > > > than 0.
> > > > > > if the meter reads 0 then the heater is bad, replace it. If
> it ohms
> > > > > out,
> > > > > > then re connect the wires, apply 110 vac power, turn on the
> refer to
> > > > > manual
> > > > > > ac, then check for 110 vac at the
> > connections going to the heater. The
> > > > > > boiler tube should be very warm to the
> > touch or you can feel the insert
> > > > > > tube on the side of the boiler to see if it is getting hot.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Lp.
> > > > > > Switch the eye brow to manual lp and you should hear a click
> click
> > > > > click of
> > > > > > the igniter/re igniter trying to ignite the lp flame. go out and
> > > > > make sure
> > > > > > it lights, you may have to remove the cover plate to see the
> flame
> > > > > or use a
> > > > > > mirror.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > If the AC heater is getting hot and the boiler tube is becoming
> > > > > warm, in 3
> > > > > > to 4 hours you should be able to feel the shelf plate in the
> refer
> > > > > getting
> > > > > > cold. If it remains warm or hot, then the coil unit of the
> refer is
> > > > > blocked
> > > > > > and time for a new unit.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > If you need a new unit. There was a recall on Norcold units,
> due to
> > > > > fires
> > > > > > starting, so be sure to check that model and serial numbers
> if you go
> > > > > > Norcold. Most techs and RV repair
> > places are reluctant to even work on
> > > > > > Norcolds right now because of law suites.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Personal I still think the Dometic is a better unit, but that is
> > > > > like tires
> > > > > > and insurance, everyone has their own ideas.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Start with the voltage check and take it one step at a time.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Safe travels,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > > > > > Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> > > > > > http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm
> <http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm>
> > > > > <http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm
> <http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm>>
> > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
>
> > > > > , "Eric Johnson"
>
> > > > > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Our original Dometic refrigerator has mysteriously
> quit cooling
> > > > > > > > while on shore power. I
> > > > > > > > > opened the door and found it was warm inside. Checked
> the light
> > > > > > > > at the bottom and it was
> > > > > > > > > showing red. I turned the unit
> > off, waited awhile, turned it back
> > > > > > > > on and the light was green.
> > > > > > > > > Checked it a couple of hours later and still no cooling.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Any ideas on what might be the problem? I had the
> circuit board
> > > > > > > > replaced about 5 years ago
> > > > > > > > > and it has worked great ever since. Could it be I need
> a new
> > > > > > > > board again?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Thanks in advance for any help, suggestions.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Regards, Eric in San Antonio
> > > > > > > > > 84FC35SBWL2
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>