Low voltage out of Genset

[one_dusty_hoot]

Fluke is good. Well maybe you have gone about
as far as you can without detailed instructions.
I looked at what information I had on the Onan
8.0 DKD for troubleshooting to see if there was
anything there that might help you, NADA!

Might very well be the printed circuit board.
I would NOT adjust the transformer taps.

Bob Janes '87FC35 Greenville, SC

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Alan Johnson"
wrote:
>
> Bob,
>
>
>
> Thanks for your help. I should have mentioned that the voltage
readings I
> posted are at the circuit breaker box using a Fluke multimeter. I
took the
> box cover off and measured the volts coming into the main circuit
breakers.
>
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
one_dusty_hoot
> Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 10:57 AM
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Low voltage out of Genset
>
>
>
> Alan, the generator is holding the rpm very well,
> +/- a half cycle, can't get much better than that.
>
> Increasing the speed from 1800 rpm may increase
> your voltage slightly but at the same time all
> AC components like to run on 60 cps, not 65-70,
> whatever it would take, and you would have excess
> heating of the AC motors as well.
>
> Your coach meters indicate they are correct by
> measuring the incoming shore power at 120 VAC.
>
> It is now necessary to measure the voltage by
> a meter other than the coach meters. You need
> to know if the output voltage at the genset is
> the same as what you have read and noted.
>
> If it is the same, then it's generator output V.
> It it is higher, then it's a voltage drop between
> the genset and coach meters.
>
> If it is the same, meaning the generator output
> is low, I don't know the cause. I read that this
> generator did not have brushes and if so they
> cannot be the problem.
>
> If the voltage is higher then you will have to
> trace the lines from the generator to the
> trasfer switch, the common point where you did
> get 120 VAC shore power.
>
> Sorry, this is as far as I can help you.
>
> Bob Janes, '87FC35 Greenville, sc
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@
> yahoogroups.com, "Alan"
> wrote:
> >
> > Ok, here are my findings so far.
> >
> > 1. Engine RPMs - right at 1800 (I bought a vibration tach, as
> > suggested.)
> > 2. Frequency stays right between 59.5 and 60.5 whether under
heavy
> > load or not.
> >
> > Leg 1 Leg 2
> > ------ ------
> > No (very little) load 108v 108v
> > Front a/c only 104.5 110
> > Both a/c's on 104 101.5
> > Rear a/c only 100 91 (a/c compressor is having
> > trouble running)
> >
> > When on shore power I've got right at 120v. On the generator, I'm
> > obviously low on voltage all the time, but do these different
> > readings tell you guys anything? Do I just need to up the rpms,
or
> > will that mess up my frequency??
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Alan Johnson
> > 87FC35
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ 40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, "Alan"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > My 87FC35 has a 8.0 kW genset. I am getting low voltage out of
> it
> > > (around 95 volts). On my last onan genset (77 GMC - carbed
gas),
> > > this was a common problem and was simply corrected by
increasing
> > > RPMs. (If this is the fix, how do I adjust idle speed? This
> fuel
> > > injection isn't as intuitive for me as I've been a carburetor
> guy.)
> > >
> > > I found an installation manual for the genset and it says to
> > adjust
> > > some "taps" on a transformer regulator. It also says "output
> > > frequency is determined by engine speed and normally does not
> > > require adjustment." I'm not exactly sure what it means
> > by "output
> > > frequency". Is that voltage??
> > >
> > > Is this problem more complicated than adjusting the RPMs? Maybe
> I
> > > don't have one of the Onan manuals..?? I have a parts manual
and
> > an
> > > installation manual.
> > >
> > > I have searched the forums and did not find a post that seemed
to
> > > address my situation. Let me know if I missed it.
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance,
> > > Alan Johnson
> > > 87FC35
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[one_dusty_hoot]

Alan, All that I know of don't.

"Does anyone else have
one of these 8.0 DKDs that don't pull out?"

Ask, does anyone have a 31, 33, 35 that does?

Aside from that there all (2) squirrel cage fans
for cooling that are back in there somewhere, needing
attention, plus a radiator lying horizontal which
possibly has clogged tubes, and maybe some hose that
should be changed. Bill Pape has blazed the
trail on his '88 which is now in first class
condition.

Personally, I would make the assumption that all
voltages at one time were set up correctly and
that wear didn't cause the voltages to be low,
something failed, or, changed value.

Bob Janes '87FC35 Greenville, SC

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Alan Johnson"
wrote:
>
> All,
>
>
>
> Here was my latest test. Under the sink going in to the
Generator/Shore/Off
> switch, I found the wire that is apparently directly from the
generator. It
> is only hot when the gen is running and it is hot regardless of how
the
> switch is set. (It is hot when the Generator/Shore/Off switch is
set to
> OFF.) I tested the voltages on those wires with my Fluke
multimeter. With
> the genset running, I get the same results there as I do at the
input side
> of the Main breakers.
>
>
>
> Based on what you guys are telling me, I think these are possibly my
> problems.
>
> 1. Regulator needs to be adjusted. (probably my best case
scenario).
> Manual mentions that, but not much help on where the regulator is,
or how to
> adjust it.
> 2. Circuit board problem (or regulator problem)
> 3. A corroded/faulty neutral right at the generator itself.
>
>
>
> My biggest disappointment when I was looking at this BB, was that
the genset
> is NOT on a tray. :-( .And low, I'm already feeling the pain from
that. I
> can't tell where the power comes out of the genset. Does anyone
else have
> one of these 8.0 DKDs that don't pull out?
>
>
>
> Are there any last suggestions before I take this in for service?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alan Johnson
>
> 87FC35
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of John Suter
> Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 1:42 PM
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Low voltage out of Genset
>
>
>
> Alan,
>
> To Ralph's points (circuit board/regulator issues),
> the fact that the voltage drop appears excessively
> large when using the rear air, I would add the
> possibility of corroded/faulty neutral generator feed
> line. If you are sufficiently, technically,
> electrically-capable, you could run an additional
> temporary/parallel neutral to the rear air from the
> gen using #8 or so, to rule in/out the neutral
> problem. Don't try this if you have the least doubt
> about your capabilities, however.
>
> In your case, the "no load" rise from 108 - 108 to
> 104.5 - 110 under rear air load, is probably not
> significant enough to signal stator/rotor problems;
> Were it 90 - 130 or greater, I might have concern.
>
> Do not allow the rear compressor to run any longer
> than is absolute minimum time necessary to check the
> readings, or damage may result, and avoid any
> microwave or other electronics when 90v or below.
>
> John
>
> --- "Ralph L. Fullenwider" 40swbell.net> net>
> wrote:
>
> > Alan:
> >
> > You have gotten some good advice on this. Do not
> > increase the RMS changing
> > the freq. It sounds like you have corroded
> > connections or weak breakers on
> > the gen set. Start by checking the voltage at the
> > breakers, the input side
> > then the out put. If the voltage drop is not found
> > there, check the
> > connections in the electrical box (should be just
> > inside the gen
> > compartment in the upper corner). Of course the
> > voltage being read at the
> > meters does go through shunts and those reporting
> > wire connections could be
> > corroded as well. With the readings below, your gent
> > set sounds like it is
> > fine. I do remember 2 occasions, after checking the
> > input side of the
> > breakers on the gen set, that the voltage was low
> > there and had to replace
> > the circuit board on one, and the regulator on the
> > other, which took care
> > of the problem in both cases.
> >
> > Safe travels,
> >
> > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> > http://home. <http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm>
> swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm
> >
> > At 04:38 AM 8/23/2006 +0000, you wrote:
> > >Ok, here are my findings so far.
> > >
> > >1. Engine RPMs - right at 1800 (I bought a
> > vibration tach, as
> > >suggested.)
> > >2. Frequency stays right between 59.5 and 60.5
> > whether under heavy
> > >load or not.
> > >
> > > Leg 1 Leg 2
> > > ------ ------
> > >No (very little) load 108v 108v
> > >Front a/c only 104.5 110
> > >Both a/c's on 104 101.5
> > >Rear a/c only 100 91 (a/c
> > compressor is having
> > >trouble running)
> > >
> > >When on shore power I've got right at 120v. On the
> > generator, I'm
> > >obviously low on voltage all the time, but do these
> > different
> > >readings tell you guys anything? Do I just need to
> > up the rpms, or
> > >will that mess up my frequency??
> > >
> > >Thanks!
> > >Alan Johnson
> > >87FC35
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
> __________________________________________________
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> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Gardner Yeaw]

Ernie,
My 78 does not have a generator slide either. I kind of wish it did so I
could get to things a little easier.

Gardner
78FC33

-----Original Message-----
From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of erniecarpet@...
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 8:06 PM
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Low voltage out of Genset

Alan, I thought all generators were on a slide. Looks like I learned
something new today.

Ernie Ekberg
83 PT40
Livingston, Montana

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Wilhelmus Schreurs]

Alan:
I doubt it very much if your neutral is the problem, if it were, your voltage
would not be the same on each leg when you load one leg down, like turning on
one air conditioner. I would think that you would see a much larger discrepency
than what you are describing.
I too would look at your regulator for adjustment, but remember to have the
generator up to full speed, with no load.

Bill
84FC35SB
Terrrace, B.C.


Alan Johnson wrote: All,

Here was my latest test. Under the sink going in to the Generator/Shore/Off
switch, I found the wire that is apparently directly from the generator. It
is only hot when the gen is running and it is hot regardless of how the
switch is set. (It is hot when the Generator/Shore/Off switch is set to
OFF.) I tested the voltages on those wires with my Fluke multimeter. With
the genset running, I get the same results there as I do at the input side
of the Main breakers.

Based on what you guys are telling me, I think these are possibly my
problems.

1. Regulator needs to be adjusted. (probably my best case scenario).
Manual mentions that, but not much help on where the regulator is, or how to
adjust it.
2. Circuit board problem (or regulator problem)
3. A corroded/faulty neutral right at the generator itself.

My biggest disappointment when I was looking at this BB, was that the genset
is NOT on a tray. :-( .And low, I'm already feeling the pain from that. I
can't tell where the power comes out of the genset. Does anyone else have
one of these 8.0 DKDs that don't pull out?

Are there any last suggestions before I take this in for service?

Thanks,

Alan Johnson

87FC35

_____

From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of John Suter
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 1:42 PM
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Low voltage out of Genset

Alan,

To Ralph's points (circuit board/regulator issues),
the fact that the voltage drop appears excessively
large when using the rear air, I would add the
possibility of corroded/faulty neutral generator feed
line. If you are sufficiently, technically,
electrically-capable, you could run an additional
temporary/parallel neutral to the rear air from the
gen using #8 or so, to rule in/out the neutral
problem. Don't try this if you have the least doubt
about your capabilities, however.

In your case, the "no load" rise from 108 - 108 to
104.5 - 110 under rear air load, is probably not
significant enough to signal stator/rotor problems;
Were it 90 - 130 or greater, I might have concern.

Do not allow the rear compressor to run any longer
than is absolute minimum time necessary to check the
readings, or damage may result, and avoid any
microwave or other electronics when 90v or below.

John

--- "Ralph L. Fullenwider" net>
wrote:

> Alan:
>
> You have gotten some good advice on this. Do not
> increase the RMS changing
> the freq. It sounds like you have corroded
> connections or weak breakers on
> the gen set. Start by checking the voltage at the
> breakers, the input side
> then the out put. If the voltage drop is not found
> there, check the
> connections in the electrical box (should be just
> inside the gen
> compartment in the upper corner). Of course the
> voltage being read at the
> meters does go through shunts and those reporting
> wire connections could be
> corroded as well. With the readings below, your gent
> set sounds like it is
> fine. I do remember 2 occasions, after checking the
> input side of the
> breakers on the gen set, that the voltage was low
> there and had to replace
> the circuit board on one, and the regulator on the
> other, which took care
> of the problem in both cases.
>
> Safe travels,
>
> Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> http://home. <http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm>
swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm
>
> At 04:38 AM 8/23/2006 +0000, you wrote:
> >Ok, here are my findings so far.
> >
> >1. Engine RPMs - right at 1800 (I bought a
> vibration tach, as
> >suggested.)
> >2. Frequency stays right between 59.5 and 60.5
> whether under heavy
> >load or not.
> >
> > Leg 1 Leg 2
> > ------ ------
> >No (very little) load 108v 108v
> >Front a/c only 104.5 110
> >Both a/c's on 104 101.5
> >Rear a/c only 100 91 (a/c
> compressor is having
> >trouble running)
> >
> >When on shore power I've got right at 120v. On the
> generator, I'm
> >obviously low on voltage all the time, but do these
> different
> >readings tell you guys anything? Do I just need to
> up the rpms, or
> >will that mess up my frequency??
> >
> >Thanks!
> >Alan Johnson
> >87FC35
> >
> >
> >
>
>

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[John Suter]

Alan,

> It
> is only hot when the gen is running and it is hot
> regardless of how the
> switch is set. (It is hot when the
> Generator/Shore/Off switch is set to
> OFF.) I tested the voltages on those wires with my
> Fluke multimeter.

I assume you disconnected the shore power to
complete this test to eliminate the possibility you
would read voltage other than gen provided.

Be veeeery careful, as the fact you are able to
measure voltage with the disconnect switch off may
indicate you are measuring a neutral wire that is
being backfed from some other source, or the
disconnect switch itself has become faulty and is
passing current, or you are not measuring the leg(s)
you believe. The measured wire might be used for
metering, wherein it would drive an independent volt
meter somewhere, whether or not the power source is
coupled to anything else thru your disconnect.

Understand your digital Fluke meter presents a very
light resistive load so it can measure voltage;
however, the same measurement position, when coupled
with an appliance resistive load might drop the
voltage reading to zero on the meter, although the
full voltage could be present.

John Suter



--- Alan Johnson wrote:

> All,
>
>
>
> Here was my latest test. Under the sink going in to
> the Generator/Shore/Off
> switch, I found the wire that is apparently directly
> from the generator. It
> is only hot when the gen is running and it is hot
> regardless of how the
> switch is set. (It is hot when the
> Generator/Shore/Off switch is set to
> OFF.) I tested the voltages on those wires with my
> Fluke multimeter. With
> the genset running, I get the same results there as
> I do at the input side
> of the Main breakers.
>
>
>
> Based on what you guys are telling me, I think these
> are possibly my
> problems.
>
> 1. Regulator needs to be adjusted. (probably my
> best case scenario).
> Manual mentions that, but not much help on where the
> regulator is, or how to
> adjust it.
> 2. Circuit board problem (or regulator problem)
> 3. A corroded/faulty neutral right at the generator
> itself.
>
>
>
> My biggest disappointment when I was looking at this
> BB, was that the genset
> is NOT on a tray. :-( .And low, I'm already
> feeling the pain from that. I
> can't tell where the power comes out of the genset.
> Does anyone else have
> one of these 8.0 DKDs that don't pull out?
>
>
>
> Are there any last suggestions before I take this in
> for service?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alan Johnson
>
> 87FC35
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
> Of John Suter
> Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 1:42 PM
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Low voltage out
> of Genset
>
>
>
> Alan,
>
> To Ralph's points (circuit board/regulator issues),
> the fact that the voltage drop appears excessively
> large when using the rear air, I would add the
> possibility of corroded/faulty neutral generator
> feed
> line. If you are sufficiently, technically,
> electrically-capable, you could run an additional
> temporary/parallel neutral to the rear air from the
> gen using #8 or so, to rule in/out the neutral
> problem. Don't try this if you have the least doubt
> about your capabilities, however.
>
> In your case, the "no load" rise from 108 - 108 to
> 104.5 - 110 under rear air load, is probably not
> significant enough to signal stator/rotor problems;
> Were it 90 - 130 or greater, I might have concern.
>
> Do not allow the rear compressor to run any longer
> than is absolute minimum time necessary to check the
> readings, or damage may result, and avoid any
> microwave or other electronics when 90v or below.
>
> John
>
> --- "Ralph L. Fullenwider" > net>
> wrote:
>
> > Alan:
> >
> > You have gotten some good advice on this. Do not
> > increase the RMS changing
> > the freq. It sounds like you have corroded
> > connections or weak breakers on
> > the gen set. Start by checking the voltage at the
> > breakers, the input side
> > then the out put. If the voltage drop is not found
> > there, check the
> > connections in the electrical box (should be just
> > inside the gen
> > compartment in the upper corner). Of course the
> > voltage being read at the
> > meters does go through shunts and those reporting
> > wire connections could be
> > corroded as well. With the readings below, your
> gent
> > set sounds like it is
> > fine. I do remember 2 occasions, after checking
> the
> > input side of the
> > breakers on the gen set, that the voltage was low
> > there and had to replace
> > the circuit board on one, and the regulator on the
> > other, which took care
> > of the problem in both cases.
> >
> > Safe travels,
> >
> > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> > http://home.
> <http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm>
> swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm
> >
> > At 04:38 AM 8/23/2006 +0000, you wrote:
> > >Ok, here are my findings so far.
> > >
> > >1. Engine RPMs - right at 1800 (I bought a
> > vibration tach, as
> > >suggested.)
> > >2. Frequency stays right between 59.5 and 60.5
> > whether under heavy
> > >load or not.
> > >
> > > Leg 1 Leg 2
> > > ------ ------
> > >No (very little) load 108v 108v
> > >Front a/c only 104.5 110
> > >Both a/c's on 104 101.5
> > >Rear a/c only 100 91 (a/c
> > compressor is having
> > >trouble running)
> > >
> > >When on shore power I've got right at 120v. On
> the
> > generator, I'm
> > >obviously low on voltage all the time, but do
> these
> > different
> > >readings tell you guys anything? Do I just need
> to
> > up the rpms, or
> > >will that mess up my frequency??
> > >
> > >Thanks!
> > >Alan Johnson
> > >87FC35
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail. <http://mail.yahoo.com> yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>


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[Alan Johnson]

All,



Here's an update. I went by Parker Power Systems here in Dallas today to
pick up a service manual (I drove the coach over there just in case I could
get someone to help me.) .More of us should go in the APU business. They
are all backed up 3-4 weeks before they can work on something.



Anyway, one of the guys there was really helpful. He came out and spent
about 30 minutes on my genset. I have an Onan model "DKD". He said even
when the were new they were always a little low on the voltage. But since
mine was running around 59.5 hertz, that we should bump it up to 61 hertz.
So he did. We increased the rpms slightly till it was putting out right
around 61 hertz. That seemed to give me a significant boost in volts. I
think it will put me around 110-115v. I say "I think" because I haven't
finished tightening everything up and then re-checking voltages under
different loads.



Hopefully this will be the end of this issue. I'll send out another update
just to let everyone know for sure.



Thanks for all your help.



Alan Johnson

87FC35







_____

From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of John Suter
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 10:59 AM
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Low voltage out of Genset



Alan,

> It
> is only hot when the gen is running and it is hot
> regardless of how the
> switch is set. (It is hot when the
> Generator/Shore/Off switch is set to
> OFF.) I tested the voltages on those wires with my
> Fluke multimeter.

I assume you disconnected the shore power to
complete this test to eliminate the possibility you
would read voltage other than gen provided.

Be veeeery careful, as the fact you are able to
measure voltage with the disconnect switch off may
indicate you are measuring a neutral wire that is
being backfed from some other source, or the
disconnect switch itself has become faulty and is
passing current, or you are not measuring the leg(s)
you believe. The measured wire might be used for
metering, wherein it would drive an independent volt
meter somewhere, whether or not the power source is
coupled to anything else thru your disconnect.

Understand your digital Fluke meter presents a very
light resistive load so it can measure voltage;
however, the same measurement position, when coupled
with an appliance resistive load might drop the
voltage reading to zero on the meter, although the
full voltage could be present.

John Suter

--- Alan Johnson usa.com>
wrote:

> All,
>
>
>
> Here was my latest test. Under the sink going in to
> the Generator/Shore/Off
> switch, I found the wire that is apparently directly
> from the generator. It
> is only hot when the gen is running and it is hot
> regardless of how the
> switch is set. (It is hot when the
> Generator/Shore/Off switch is set to
> OFF.) I tested the voltages on those wires with my
> Fluke multimeter. With
> the genset running, I get the same results there as
> I do at the input side
> of the Main breakers.
>
>
>
> Based on what you guys are telling me, I think these
> are possibly my
> problems.
>
> 1. Regulator needs to be adjusted. (probably my
> best case scenario).
> Manual mentions that, but not much help on where the
> regulator is, or how to
> adjust it.
> 2. Circuit board problem (or regulator problem)
> 3. A corroded/faulty neutral right at the generator
> itself.
>
>
>
> My biggest disappointment when I was looking at this
> BB, was that the genset
> is NOT on a tray. :-( .And low, I'm already
> feeling the pain from that. I
> can't tell where the power comes out of the genset.
> Does anyone else have
> one of these 8.0 DKDs that don't pull out?
>
>
>
> Are there any last suggestions before I take this in
> for service?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alan Johnson
>
> 87FC35
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: WanderlodgeForum@
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:WanderlodgeForum@
yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
> Of John Suter
> Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 1:42 PM
> To: WanderlodgeForum@
yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Low voltage out
> of Genset
>
>
>
> Alan,
>
> To Ralph's points (circuit board/regulator issues),
> the fact that the voltage drop appears excessively
> large when using the rear air, I would add the
> possibility of corroded/faulty neutral generator
> feed
> line. If you are sufficiently, technically,
> electrically-capable, you could run an additional
> temporary/parallel neutral to the rear air from the
> gen using #8 or so, to rule in/out the neutral
> problem. Don't try this if you have the least doubt
> about your capabilities, however.
>
> In your case, the "no load" rise from 108 - 108 to
> 104.5 - 110 under rear air load, is probably not
> significant enough to signal stator/rotor problems;
> Were it 90 - 130 or greater, I might have concern.
>
> Do not allow the rear compressor to run any longer
> than is absolute minimum time necessary to check the
> readings, or damage may result, and avoid any
> microwave or other electronics when 90v or below.
>
> John
>
> --- "Ralph L. Fullenwider" > net>
> wrote:
>
> > Alan:
> >
> > You have gotten some good advice on this. Do not
> > increase the RMS changing
> > the freq. It sounds like you have corroded
> > connections or weak breakers on
> > the gen set. Start by checking the voltage at the
> > breakers, the input side
> > then the out put. If the voltage drop is not found
> > there, check the
> > connections in the electrical box (should be just
> > inside the gen
> > compartment in the upper corner). Of course the
> > voltage being read at the
> > meters does go through shunts and those reporting
> > wire connections could be
> > corroded as well. With the readings below, your
> gent
> > set sounds like it is
> > fine. I do remember 2 occasions, after checking
> the
> > input side of the
> > breakers on the gen set, that the voltage was low
> > there and had to replace
> > the circuit board on one, and the regulator on the
> > other, which took care
> > of the problem in both cases.
> >
> > Safe travels,
> >
> > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> > http://home.
> <http://home. <http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm>
swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm>
> swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm
> >
> > At 04:38 AM 8/23/2006 +0000, you wrote:
> > >Ok, here are my findings so far.
> > >
> > >1. Engine RPMs - right at 1800 (I bought a
> > vibration tach, as
> > >suggested.)
> > >2. Frequency stays right between 59.5 and 60.5
> > whether under heavy
> > >load or not.
> > >
> > > Leg 1 Leg 2
> > > ------ ------
> > >No (very little) load 108v 108v
> > >Front a/c only 104.5 110
> > >Both a/c's on 104 101.5
> > >Rear a/c only 100 91 (a/c
> > compressor is having
> > >trouble running)
> > >
> > >When on shore power I've got right at 120v. On
> the
> > generator, I'm
> > >obviously low on voltage all the time, but do
> these
> > different
> > >readings tell you guys anything? Do I just need
> to
> > up the rpms, or
> > >will that mess up my frequency??
> > >
> > >Thanks!
> > >Alan Johnson
> > >87FC35
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
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