heat/sound insulation comparison

[erniecarpet@...]

Thank you, Ralph. Like you, I have done lots of generator compartments and
way too many dog houses. If there was a way to spray something on that would
resist and or repel oil, heat and noise, I'm all for it. It sure would beat
climbing into a generator compartment, for sure.

Ernie Ekberg
83 PT40
Livingston, Montana



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Ralph L. Fullenwider]

Good Sunday to everyone:

While a spirited exchange of information tends to further knowledge of up
grades and parts, this is one side I will attempt to expound on, but not
with the db ratings or density factors, I do not have that information and
it is superfluous really, in an after the fact sort of way.

What I would like to send out is the experience of use and quality of sound
and heat insulation, having re done several dog houses and gen sets.

1. Original wafered or honey comb foam insulation with barrier.
a. No question, the sound deadening quality it the best. that is a plus
b. Installation ease, comparable
c. Down side, does not resist oil impregnation nor the effects of heat
deterioration, which is the reason for replacement in the first place. Will
have to repeat installation in 5 to 7 years. ( that is an estimate only)

2. Foam with sound barrier with mylar and self sticking back ( such as
Steven Birtles offers)
a. Sound deadening quality is acceptable in most cases, though certainly
not as good as the wafered foam.
b. Mylar facing does resist oil and heat added to a good sound deadening
with the barrier.
c. installation is comparable but not much room for placement error.
Once stuck you don't move it. Also sealed with either mylar tape or the
meatal a/c and heating ducting type ( best)

3. Foam with sound barrier and mylar, (such as from JC Whitney)
a. Sound quality as 2 above
b. Mylar facing, the same as 2 above
c. Installation has one more step with using a spray adhesive on both
surfaces, allowed to dry to tacky then placement. This is where 2 and 3
differ. There is room for placement error as the spray adhesive allows for
slight movement after placement.

All three above need to have screws and washers added to the overhead in
the gen set compartments to help hold it in place because of the weight of
the materials used.

I did not mention the Lizzard skin material in the above because I have
never used it, but Hank has had it done and knowing Hank and his experience
in Bird's, I trust his experience.

Also I did not mention the cost factor, this is something each individual
must research on his own. As does the material that is going to be used to
do the job. I have used 1,2 and 3 above and my personal preference is the
mylar faced material coupled with the ability to seal all the seams to
repel weather, heat and noise. Certainly there are compromises that need to
be addressed. Again that is on the individual to think about when picking
materials.

Hope this helps a little, and the above is what experience has taught me.

Safe travels,

Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma

[dspithaler@...]

I just finished my genny compartment with the insulation from Stephen. It
was a real job without taking the genny out. I did had the rad & fan out & it
still was a job. I did my engine compartment last summer & am satisfied with
it. It was easy compared to the genny compartment. It sure makes a big
difference compared to the dirty waffle. I always had it on me while checking
tranny
& engine fluids. I did use some screws just in case
Don
89 SP 36'
Butler, PA


My genset compartment. I used the insulation from Steve Birtles and added
Weldwood contact cement to the peal and stick backing and the plywood surface.
You get one shot at it. I trimmed it with aluminum tape. It was applied to a
clean surface. I did not use screws. It has not sagged

Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40
Niceville, FL





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Henry Jay Hannigan]

---RALPH:
Thanks nfor your valued comments. It is a slow Sunday morning in
Vegas so I can Chat a little more.

The bucket of "lizard skin" I put on the FC was more expensive than
two sheets of the lead stuff at the Marine store..
two sheets about $210
one bucket about $250

I now regret I did not have a DB meter to test
the ..before ..and ..after sound..........but it sure seemed much
better to me in heat AND sound.....trouble with the FC, it seemed
like all the sound after applying the "lizard" seemed to come from
the front........NOT from the doghouse......
I truly believe application helped both....
One more thing...I see "lizard skin" sells a bucket of heat proof
stuff and a bucket of soundproof stuff.....ok to say stuff...no
need to sound fancey right?

Anyway, when I return from Australia next May, I am going to apply
BOTH buckets SOUND & HEAT...and I will try to do a db sound analysis
of BEFORE and AFTER ....then I will be able to report to the Forum
with actual on the job results...until then gang...all we can do
is..get along and talk about it......
Anyone want to come to Australia? We have a small house and are
willing to talk with any Forum member who wants to come to Melbourne
as we would be willing to put you all up for a week or so to get you
started on your tour..no charge....u can email me privately...we can
pick you up at the Melbourne airport..we live in a small town of
4000 people about 100 klicks from Melbourne...Australia is a must
place to see before going to the box!

LOL
Hank Hannigan
90SP36...we r keeping it
80FC31 for sale now in VEGAS

In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
wrote:
>
> Good Sunday to everyone:
>
> While a spirited exchange of information tends to further
knowledge of up
> grades and parts, this is one side I will attempt to expound on,
but not
> with the db ratings or density factors, I do not have that
information and
> it is superfluous really, in an after the fact sort of way.
>
> What I would like to send out is the experience of use and quality
of sound
> and heat insulation, having re done several dog houses and gen
sets.
>
> 1. Original wafered or honey comb foam insulation with barrier.
> a. No question, the sound deadening quality it the best. that
is a plus
> b. Installation ease, comparable
> c. Down side, does not resist oil impregnation nor the effects
of heat
> deterioration, which is the reason for replacement in the first
place. Will
> have to repeat installation in 5 to 7 years. ( that is an estimate
only)
>
> 2. Foam with sound barrier with mylar and self sticking back (
such as
> Steven Birtles offers)
> a. Sound deadening quality is acceptable in most cases, though
certainly
> not as good as the wafered foam.
> b. Mylar facing does resist oil and heat added to a good sound
deadening
> with the barrier.
> c. installation is comparable but not much room for placement
error.
> Once stuck you don't move it. Also sealed with either mylar tape
or the
> meatal a/c and heating ducting type ( best)
>
> 3. Foam with sound barrier and mylar, (such as from JC Whitney)
> a. Sound quality as 2 above
> b. Mylar facing, the same as 2 above
> c. Installation has one more step with using a spray adhesive
on both
> surfaces, allowed to dry to tacky then placement. This is where 2
and 3
> differ. There is room for placement error as the spray adhesive
allows for
> slight movement after placement.
>
> All three above need to have screws and washers added to the
overhead in
> the gen set compartments to help hold it in place because of the
weight of
> the materials used.
>
> I did not mention the Lizzard skin material in the above because I
have
> never used it, but Hank has had it done and knowing Hank and his
experience
> in Bird's, I trust his experience.
>
> Also I did not mention the cost factor, this is something each
individual
> must research on his own. As does the material that is going to be
used to
> do the job. I have used 1,2 and 3 above and my personal preference
is the
> mylar faced material coupled with the ability to seal all the
seams to
> repel weather, heat and noise. Certainly there are compromises
that need to
> be addressed. Again that is on the individual to think about when
picking
> materials.
>
> Hope this helps a little, and the above is what experience has
taught me.
>
> Safe travels,
>
> Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
>

[Leroy Eckert]

My genset compartment. I used the insulation from Steve Birtles and added
Weldwood contact cement to the peal and stick backing and the plywood surface.
You get one shot at it. I trimmed it with aluminum tape. It was applied to a
clean surface. I did not use screws. It has not sagged

Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40
Niceville, FL



----- Original Message -----
From: Ralph L. Fullenwider
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2006 1:26 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] heat/sound insulation comparison


Good Sunday to everyone:

While a spirited exchange of information tends to further knowledge of up
grades and parts, this is one side I will attempt to expound on, but not
with the db ratings or density factors, I do not have that information and
it is superfluous really, in an after the fact sort of way.

What I would like to send out is the experience of use and quality of sound
and heat insulation, having re done several dog houses and gen sets.

1. Original wafered or honey comb foam insulation with barrier.
a. No question, the sound deadening quality it the best. that is a plus
b. Installation ease, comparable
c. Down side, does not resist oil impregnation nor the effects of heat
deterioration, which is the reason for replacement in the first place. Will
have to repeat installation in 5 to 7 years. ( that is an estimate only)

2. Foam with sound barrier with mylar and self sticking back ( such as
Steven Birtles offers)
a. Sound deadening quality is acceptable in most cases, though certainly
not as good as the wafered foam.
b. Mylar facing does resist oil and heat added to a good sound deadening
with the barrier.
c. installation is comparable but not much room for placement error.
Once stuck you don't move it. Also sealed with either mylar tape or the
meatal a/c and heating ducting type ( best)

3. Foam with sound barrier and mylar, (such as from JC Whitney)
a. Sound quality as 2 above
b. Mylar facing, the same as 2 above
c. Installation has one more step with using a spray adhesive on both
surfaces, allowed to dry to tacky then placement. This is where 2 and 3
differ. There is room for placement error as the spray adhesive allows for
slight movement after placement.

All three above need to have screws and washers added to the overhead in
the gen set compartments to help hold it in place because of the weight of
the materials used.

I did not mention the Lizzard skin material in the above because I have
never used it, but Hank has had it done and knowing Hank and his experience
in Bird's, I trust his experience.

Also I did not mention the cost factor, this is something each individual
must research on his own. As does the material that is going to be used to
do the job. I have used 1,2 and 3 above and my personal preference is the
mylar faced material coupled with the ability to seal all the seams to
repel weather, heat and noise. Certainly there are compromises that need to
be addressed. Again that is on the individual to think about when picking
materials.

Hope this helps a little, and the above is what experience has taught me.

Safe travels,

Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Dan Darst]

I have limited experience, but based on it, I can vouch for number 3. Did it
6 months ago when checking/setting valve clearances. Noise reduction was
good. Based on one inch thick material and the tightness of fit, I would
doubt there is enough room for two inch stuff.

Ralph, I tried to adjust placement, no chance, tore the foam. Besides
relying on the sticky to hold it on the sides of the dog house over time,
also used a 1/8" by 1" aluminum strap and existing hardware attaching around
the doghouse about 3" down from the top of the side being careful not to
sqeeze the material much.

dandarst86fc35rbhuntleyil.


>From: "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
>Reply-To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
>To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] heat/sound insulation comparison
>Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2006 13:26:04 -0500
>
>Good Sunday to everyone:
>
>While a spirited exchange of information tends to further knowledge of up
>grades and parts, this is one side I will attempt to expound on, but not
>with the db ratings or density factors, I do not have that information and
>it is superfluous really, in an after the fact sort of way.
>
>What I would like to send out is the experience of use and quality of sound
>and heat insulation, having re done several dog houses and gen sets.
>
>1. Original wafered or honey comb foam insulation with barrier.
> a. No question, the sound deadening quality it the best. that is a plus
> b. Installation ease, comparable
> c. Down side, does not resist oil impregnation nor the effects of heat
>deterioration, which is the reason for replacement in the first place. Will
>have to repeat installation in 5 to 7 years. ( that is an estimate only)
>
>2. Foam with sound barrier with mylar and self sticking back ( such as
>Steven Birtles offers)
> a. Sound deadening quality is acceptable in most cases, though
>certainly
>not as good as the wafered foam.
> b. Mylar facing does resist oil and heat added to a good sound
>deadening
>with the barrier.
> c. installation is comparable but not much room for placement error.
>Once stuck you don't move it. Also sealed with either mylar tape or the
>meatal a/c and heating ducting type ( best)
>
>3. Foam with sound barrier and mylar, (such as from JC Whitney)
> a. Sound quality as 2 above
> b. Mylar facing, the same as 2 above
> c. Installation has one more step with using a spray adhesive on both
>surfaces, allowed to dry to tacky then placement. This is where 2 and 3
>differ. There is room for placement error as the spray adhesive allows for
>slight movement after placement.
>
>All three above need to have screws and washers added to the overhead in
>the gen set compartments to help hold it in place because of the weight of
>the materials used.
>
>I did not mention the Lizzard skin material in the above because I have
>never used it, but Hank has had it done and knowing Hank and his experience
>in Bird's, I trust his experience.
>
>Also I did not mention the cost factor, this is something each individual
>must research on his own. As does the material that is going to be used to
>do the job. I have used 1,2 and 3 above and my personal preference is the
>mylar faced material coupled with the ability to seal all the seams to
>repel weather, heat and noise. Certainly there are compromises that need to
>be addressed. Again that is on the individual to think about when picking
>materials.
>
>Hope this helps a little, and the above is what experience has taught me.
>
>Safe travels,
>
>Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
>Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
>

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[dspithaler@...]

Hank If you ever get under there isn't much room between the top of the
fan housing & the roof oof the compartment. I modified the back end of my
tray by cutting the back out & welding an angle on it to support the bottom
when I put it back on. I then took the rad out the back & then the fan squirrel
cage out to make room to work. I had the rad cleaned & checked out also. If I
ever have trouble with the rad now I can take it out a lot easer. I kept
the genny slid out to be able to sit up under the coach. If you want to
disconnect the fuel lines & the power cords you could put a jack under it &
take the
whole tray out . That would be the way to do it. I don't think you could do
it without doing one or the other just not enough room under there. I have
never seen the lizard skin & don't know how much of a mess it makes but I
don't think I would lie putting it on over top of the engine
LOL
Don
89 SP 36'
Butler, PA
---


DON:
I'M GOING TO DO MY GENNY NEXT YEAR AND PLAN to paint "lizard skin"
soundproofing first and then "lizard skin" heat proofing on top of
that...I hope it is an easier job than yours.

LOL
Hank Hannigan
90SP36
80FC31 for sale in Vegas






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Henry Jay Hannigan]

---DON:
I'M GOING TO DO MY GENNY NEXT YEAR AND PLAN to paint "lizard skin"
soundproofing first and then "lizard skin" heat proofing on top of
that...I hope it is an easier job than yours.

LOL
Hank Hannigan
90SP36
80FC31 for sale in Vegas

WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, dspithaler@... wrote:
>
> I just finished my genny compartment with the insulation from
Stephen. It
> was a real job without taking the genny out. I did had the rad &
fan out & it
> still was a job. I did my engine compartment last summer & am
satisfied with
> it. It was easy compared to the genny compartment. It sure makes
a big
> difference compared to the dirty waffle. I always had it on me
while checking tranny
> & engine fluids. I did use some screws just in case
> Don
> 89 SP 36'
> Butler, PA
>
>
> My genset compartment. I used the insulation from Steve Birtles
and added
> Weldwood contact cement to the peal and stick backing and the
plywood surface.
> You get one shot at it. I trimmed it with aluminum tape. It was
applied to a
> clean surface. I did not use screws. It has not sagged
>
> Leroy Eckert
> 1990 WB-40
> Niceville, FL
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[pattypape]

Hey Don,


Great project, Good to hear you are ready for Winter.
I hear the step works tooooooooooo.
Will you be attending the RATS Rally????

Bill 88 FC Michigan


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, dspithaler@... wrote:
>
>
> Hank If you ever get under there isn't much room between the
top of the
> fan housing & the roof oof the compartment. I modified the back
end of my
> tray by cutting the back out & welding an angle on it to support
the bottom
> when I put it back on. I then took the rad out the back & then
the fan squirrel
> cage out to make room to work. I had the rad cleaned & checked
out also. If I
> ever have trouble with the rad now I can take it out a lot
easer. I kept
> the genny slid out to be able to sit up under the coach. If you
want to
> disconnect the fuel lines & the power cords you could put a jack
under it & take the
> whole tray out . That would be the way to do it. I don't think
you could do
> it without doing one or the other just not enough room under
there. I have
> never seen the lizard skin & don't know how much of a mess it
makes but I
> don't think I would lie putting it on over top of the engine
> LOL
> Don
> 89 SP 36'
> Butler,
PA

> ---
>
>
> DON:
> I'M GOING TO DO MY GENNY NEXT YEAR AND PLAN to paint "lizard
skin"
> soundproofing first and then "lizard skin" heat proofing on top
of
> that...I hope it is an easier job than yours.
>
> LOL
> Hank Hannigan
> 90SP36
> 80FC31 for sale in Vegas
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Henry Jay Hannigan]

---HEY DON:
THANKS for the radiator comments..I'm not looking forward to
insulating the radiator etc. and have been under there checking it
out. your comments are appreciated and i'll probably be contacting
you again when we return from Australia in May or so.
As for putting "lizard skin" OVER the engine, I put it on the
doghouse of my 80FC31 and it is fine. It sticks well with no
problem. The costency is about the same as the "mud" you put on
drywall. I wore out three large brushes putting on one 2 gallon
bucket of the stuff...regardless of the comments recieved, I really
like the "lizard skin." Before I put it in the rtadiator
compartment, I am going to do a ...db......sound
test..before...and...after...ao I can report some real data to the
Forum.

Thanks for responding Don.
PS..know anyone who wants a cherry 1980FC31???
Rgards,
Hank Hannigan
90SP36..keeping it
80FC31..selling it in Vegas($30,000 I pay air fare)

WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, dspithaler@... wrote:
>
>
> Hank If you ever get under there isn't much room between the
top of the
> fan housing & the roof oof the compartment. I modified the back
end of my
> tray by cutting the back out & welding an angle on it to support
the bottom
> when I put it back on. I then took the rad out the back & then
the fan squirrel
> cage out to make room to work. I had the rad cleaned & checked
out also. If I
> ever have trouble with the rad now I can take it out a lot
easer. I kept
> the genny slid out to be able to sit up under the coach. If you
want to
> disconnect the fuel lines & the power cords you could put a jack
under it & take the
> whole tray out . That would be the way to do it. I don't think
you could do
> it without doing one or the other just not enough room under
there. I have
> never seen the lizard skin & don't know how much of a mess it
makes but I
> don't think I would lie putting it on over top of the engine
> LOL
> Don
> 89 SP 36'
> Butler,
PA

> ---
>
>
> DON:
> I'M GOING TO DO MY GENNY NEXT YEAR AND PLAN to paint "lizard
skin"
> soundproofing first and then "lizard skin" heat proofing on top
of
> that...I hope it is an easier job than yours.
>
> LOL
> Hank Hannigan
> 90SP36
> 80FC31 for sale in Vegas
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>