Coolant Pressure Control Cap

[Curt Sprenger]

Coolant Pressure Control Cap...the 92 series manual recommends all
series 92 on-highway vehicle engines use a minimum 9 psi control cap.
My radiator cap is a 7 psi. Is this a Bluebird change? What are others
using? Should I be concerned? The engine temperature runs at about 185
to 195.

--
Curt Sprenger
1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
Anaheim Hills, Calif.

[Leroy Eckert]

Curt:
My cap is 13psi, was on the coach when I purchased it and it's still there. I
changed my fan control alarmstat to 190 degrees and my temperature range now in
winter is 180-190. I expect 190 constant with the chassis a/c on in summer. We
will see when it gets hot.

Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
Niceville, FL


----- Original Message -----
From: Curt Sprenger
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com ; wanderlodge@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2007 10:20 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Coolant Pressure Control Cap


Coolant Pressure Control Cap...the 92 series manual recommends all
series 92 on-highway vehicle engines use a minimum 9 psi control cap.
My radiator cap is a 7 psi. Is this a Bluebird change? What are others
using? Should I be concerned? The engine temperature runs at about 185
to 195.

--
Curt Sprenger
1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
Anaheim Hills, Calif.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Ron & Patty]

Curt,

The discrepancy between the manual and what BB does came up
previously. Due to the application being a motorhome, BB engineers
may (may) have determined the 7PSI is correct. Seems most folks have
a 7PSI cap on a 92. We have 7PSI, and temps run 190 – 195, and is
acceptable. I'd say your temps seem to be right on.

Ron, No. California
85PT36



--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Curt Sprenger
wrote:
>
> Coolant Pressure Control Cap...the 92 series manual recommends all
> series 92 on-highway vehicle engines use a minimum 9 psi control
> cap. My radiator cap is a 7 psi.
> Curt Sprenger
> 1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
> Anaheim Hills, Calif.

[birdboat45]

Leroy i also would like to change my fan switch to a 190,i changed
mine two years ago to a 195 its all i could find.If you have a part
number or the source it would be good. Thanks
Jack Jones
87 Pt 40
East Tn 27 and snowing

[Fred Hulse]

My theory about the 7 lb. cap is the coach heating system is tied into the
cooling system and Blue Bird has used that pressure to protect the other systems
in the coach,let alone miles of heater hose!
Fred & Jeanne Hulse
Morristown Arizona
1997 Wanderlodge WLWB41

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Leroy Eckert]

Your theory may be totally correct.

My understand of cap pressure values, the higher the pressure, the higher the
boiling point. Assuming BB used top quality hoses and I believe they did I have
some trouble differentiating between the bus and my Cummins SLT 3/4 ton PU, when
it comes to cap pressure. My diesel truck heating system is tied to the cooling
system and it has a factory 15psi cap. My bus has a 13psi cap that I did not
install and over the past 3 years all has been good. The DD service manual says
7-9 psi. I give up, maybe.

Over the past few months I have been making small changes to the cooling system
in my bus. I am taking chances, testing them on my bus, in an effort to reduce
overall temperatures in the engine, transmission, retarder and engine oil. I
have changed the Alarmstat, which operates the hydraulic fan to 190 degrees from
195 degrees.
I will not know the full extent this change until summer, but so far it is
working.

Before I decided to make the change I consulted with DD approved shops and BB.
I was not satisfied with the answers sooooo, I pressed on.

The DD manual says to be careful not to have cooling system components operate
out of sequence because the result will be overheating. At this point in my
testing I have concluded the foregoing to mean, the cooling fan, the engine
thermostats, and the alarmstat, primarily because I do not know of any other
cooling affected components other than the cap.

Before I embarked upon my mission, I was told that temperature cycling was the
result of the engine thermostats cycling. Unfortunately, I cannot force that to
happen and I have tried. I have driven the coach in temperatures of below 32
degrees with the fan override on and my water temperature gauge stabilizes at
about 170 degrees, the engine thermostat value. In other words, it doesn't move
once stabilized, so the engine thermostats are not cycling(possibly). If they
are it is happening so quickly that it does not register on the temp guage or
they partially close and shut down the water flow to hold the constant
temperature. I cannot see them work. When I turn the fan override off the
temperature begins to cycle off the Alarmstat between 180-190 degrees.

All of this fits the DD published coolant Series 92 publication in my
possession. Why BB dedided on a 195 degree Alarmstat, only BB knows and they
aren't talking, because I have asked. I simply does not make sense to force the
temperatures to the outer limit of DD specifications, ;and that is what happens
in summer. Heat is our enemy and I have been able to reduce the heat.

Most likely, I will change my cap to 9psi sometime in the summer and see if that
makes any difference. My guess is it will not simply because keeping the engine
cooling system within temperature specifications precludes any real need for the
cap to blow off.

I like my drive train component temps now.

Engine Oil-215
Water Temp-Cycles between 180-190
Transmission Temp- 170
Retarder Temp- 220
All recorded in flat conditions at cruise speed of 68 mph, pulling a 20ft
trailer w/car.

I do not suggest you try anything unless you fully understand your system, I'm
simply reporting what I did.
The foregoing presumes that all system components are in proper working order.

My next project is to install MH's water injection system so when I climb the
mountains next summer I'll have a water flood just in case.

Alright, fire away, I have Redneck engineering paperwork on this one. LOL lol,
lol

Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
Niceville, FL



----- Original Message -----
From: Fred Hulse
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 11:44 AM
Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Coolant Pressure Control Cap


My theory about the 7 lb. cap is the coach heating system is tied into the
cooling system and Blue Bird has used that pressure to protect the other systems
in the coach,let alone miles of heater hose!
Fred & Jeanne Hulse
Morristown Arizona
1997 Wanderlodge WLWB41

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Bob & Carol Howald`]

Leroy: If you want to increase the cooling of your 8V-92 you
could install a 4" air scoup behind the radiator opening to help
catch the air and redirect it into the radiator. I did this on a 6V-
92. I had it made out of stainless steel it had nice curve to it to
help capture the air. It worked well. Bob
93pt40--Bunker Hill, Illinois....Soon to be back in Jackson,Wy.



wrote:
>
> Your theory may be totally correct.
>
> My understand of cap pressure values, the higher the pressure, the
higher the boiling point. Assuming BB used top quality hoses and I
believe they did I have some trouble differentiating between the bus
and my Cummins SLT 3/4 ton PU, when it comes to cap pressure. My
diesel truck heating system is tied to the cooling system and it has
a factory 15psi cap. My bus has a 13psi cap that I did not install
and over the past 3 years all has been good. The DD service manual
says 7-9 psi. I give up, maybe.
>
> Over the past few months I have been making small changes to the
cooling system in my bus. I am taking chances, testing them on my
bus, in an effort to reduce overall temperatures in the engine,
transmission, retarder and engine oil. I have changed the Alarmstat,
which operates the hydraulic fan to 190 degrees from 195 degrees.
> I will not know the full extent this change until summer, but so
far it is working.
>
> Before I decided to make the change I consulted with DD approved
shops and BB. I was not satisfied with the answers sooooo, I pressed
on.
>
> The DD manual says to be careful not to have cooling system
components operate out of sequence because the result will be
overheating. At this point in my testing I have concluded the
foregoing to mean, the cooling fan, the engine thermostats, and the
alarmstat, primarily because I do not know of any other cooling
affected components other than the cap.
>
> Before I embarked upon my mission, I was told that temperature
cycling was the result of the engine thermostats cycling.
Unfortunately, I cannot force that to happen and I have tried. I
have driven the coach in temperatures of below 32 degrees with the
fan override on and my water temperature gauge stabilizes at about
170 degrees, the engine thermostat value. In other words, it doesn't
move once stabilized, so the engine thermostats are not cycling
(possibly). If they are it is happening so quickly that it does not
register on the temp guage or they partially close and shut down the
water flow to hold the constant temperature. I cannot see them
work. When I turn the fan override off the temperature begins to
cycle off the Alarmstat between 180-190 degrees.
>
> All of this fits the DD published coolant Series 92 publication in
my possession. Why BB dedided on a 195 degree Alarmstat, only BB
knows and they aren't talking, because I have asked. I simply does
not make sense to force the temperatures to the outer limit of DD
specifications, ;and that is what happens in summer. Heat is our
enemy and I have been able to reduce the heat.
>
> Most likely, I will change my cap to 9psi sometime in the summer
and see if that makes any difference. My guess is it will not simply
because keeping the engine cooling system within temperature
specifications precludes any real need for the cap to blow off.
>
> I like my drive train component temps now.
>
> Engine Oil-215
> Water Temp-Cycles between 180-190
> Transmission Temp- 170
> Retarder Temp- 220
> All recorded in flat conditions at cruise speed of 68 mph, pulling
a 20ft trailer w/car.
>
> I do not suggest you try anything unless you fully understand your
system, I'm simply reporting what I did.
> The foregoing presumes that all system components are in proper
working order.
>
> My next project is to install MH's water injection system so when I
climb the mountains next summer I'll have a water flood just in case.
>
> Alright, fire away, I have Redneck engineering paperwork on this
one. LOL lol, lol
>
> Leroy Eckert
> 1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
> Niceville, FL
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Fred Hulse
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 11:44 AM
> Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Coolant Pressure Control Cap
>
>
> My theory about the 7 lb. cap is the coach heating system is tied
into the cooling system and Blue Bird has used that pressure to
protect the other systems in the coach,let alone miles of heater hose!
> Fred & Jeanne Hulse
> Morristown Arizona
> 1997 Wanderlodge WLWB41
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Bob & Carol Howald`]

Leroy: I also installed what was or is called a swamp cooler
on the radiator. It took water from the potable water tank and thru a
pump and fittings it sprayed water on the radiator on demand. I had
the control at the driver panel. It had about four or five different
settings that sprayed water at timed rates. I would rate it about 5
on a scale of 1 to 10. I really never used it much. The best
procedure was to turn the fan on before the climb and adjust speed
and rpm with a lower gear and just sit and enjoy the ride up the
pass. One draw back might be that if your using really hard
water that you will get a mineral build up on the fin's of the
radiator rather quickly.(hard to get off).
worked for me..sort-of..??;;;;; Bob 93pt-40
'
>
>
> Leroy: If you want to increase the cooling of your 8V-92 you
> could install a 4" air scoup behind the radiator opening to help
> catch the air and redirect it into the radiator. I did this on a 6V-
> 92. I had it made out of stainless steel it had nice curve to it to
> help capture the air. It worked well. Bob
> 93pt40--Bunker Hill, Illinois....Soon to be back in Jackson,Wy.
>
>
>
> wrote:
> >
> > Your theory may be totally correct.
> >
> > My understand of cap pressure values, the higher the pressure,
the
> higher the boiling point. Assuming BB used top quality hoses and I
> believe they did I have some trouble differentiating between the
bus
> and my Cummins SLT 3/4 ton PU, when it comes to cap pressure. My
> diesel truck heating system is tied to the cooling system and it
has
> a factory 15psi cap. My bus has a 13psi cap that I did not install
> and over the past 3 years all has been good. The DD service manual
> says 7-9 psi. I give up, maybe.
> >
> > Over the past few months I have been making small changes to the
> cooling system in my bus. I am taking chances, testing them on my
> bus, in an effort to reduce overall temperatures in the engine,
> transmission, retarder and engine oil. I have changed the
Alarmstat,
> which operates the hydraulic fan to 190 degrees from 195 degrees.
> > I will not know the full extent this change until summer, but so
> far it is working.
> >
> > Before I decided to make the change I consulted with DD approved
> shops and BB. I was not satisfied with the answers sooooo, I
pressed
> on.
> >
> > The DD manual says to be careful not to have cooling system
> components operate out of sequence because the result will be
> overheating. At this point in my testing I have concluded the
> foregoing to mean, the cooling fan, the engine thermostats, and the
> alarmstat, primarily because I do not know of any other cooling
> affected components other than the cap.
> >
> > Before I embarked upon my mission, I was told that temperature
> cycling was the result of the engine thermostats cycling.
> Unfortunately, I cannot force that to happen and I have tried. I
> have driven the coach in temperatures of below 32 degrees with the
> fan override on and my water temperature gauge stabilizes at about
> 170 degrees, the engine thermostat value. In other words, it
doesn't
> move once stabilized, so the engine thermostats are not cycling
> (possibly). If they are it is happening so quickly that it does
not
> register on the temp guage or they partially close and shut down
the
> water flow to hold the constant temperature. I cannot see them
> work. When I turn the fan override off the temperature begins to
> cycle off the Alarmstat between 180-190 degrees.
> >
> > All of this fits the DD published coolant Series 92 publication
in
> my possession. Why BB dedided on a 195 degree Alarmstat, only BB
> knows and they aren't talking, because I have asked. I simply does
> not make sense to force the temperatures to the outer limit of DD
> specifications, ;and that is what happens in summer. Heat is our
> enemy and I have been able to reduce the heat.
> >
> > Most likely, I will change my cap to 9psi sometime in the summer
> and see if that makes any difference. My guess is it will not
simply
> because keeping the engine cooling system within temperature
> specifications precludes any real need for the cap to blow off.
> >
> > I like my drive train component temps now.
> >
> > Engine Oil-215
> > Water Temp-Cycles between 180-190
> > Transmission Temp- 170
> > Retarder Temp- 220
> > All recorded in flat conditions at cruise speed of 68 mph,
pulling
> a 20ft trailer w/car.
> >
> > I do not suggest you try anything unless you fully understand
your
> system, I'm simply reporting what I did.
> > The foregoing presumes that all system components are in proper
> working order.
> >
> > My next project is to install MH's water injection system so when
I
> climb the mountains next summer I'll have a water flood just in
case.
> >
> > Alright, fire away, I have Redneck engineering paperwork on this
> one. LOL lol, lol
> >
> > Leroy Eckert
> > 1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
> > Niceville, FL
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Fred Hulse
> > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 11:44 AM
> > Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Coolant Pressure Control Cap
> >
> >
> > My theory about the 7 lb. cap is the coach heating system is
tied
> into the cooling system and Blue Bird has used that pressure to
> protect the other systems in the coach,let alone miles of heater
hose!
> > Fred & Jeanne Hulse
> > Morristown Arizona
> > 1997 Wanderlodge WLWB41
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>

[Leroy Eckert]

Thanks, I totally agree, that is an option. I have determined that air flow
and fan cycling design determines water temperature, and water temperature
affects all the other drive train components. Of course, there are other
factors such as chassis a/c condenser location. While I have never incurred
overheating problems I simply do not understand why I need to run a very
expensive engine in the top of the published temperature range. And I have not
been able to obtain a definitive answer from BB or any approved DD shop I have
contacted. So, I pressed on.
It is not a dragster you know?

I know, H/P rob , but that argument doesn't work in my case, because the fan is
gonna cycle at 195 degrees or 190 degrees, except when you pull the mountain, at
which time you need all the cooling you can get. That 5 degree variance means a
bunch in cooling the other components.

Mine is also different because it is a Royale conversion. That is why I am very
careful when offering advise. Many components are not in the standard location,
and wiring does not match BB schematics most of the time. However, I have very
few problems. They did a fine job.

Thanks again, and Jackson, WY is a beautiful place. Hope to get there in the
bus in summer.

Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
Niceville, FL






----- Original Message -----
From: Bob & Carol Howald`
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 8:38 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Coolant Pressure Control Cap



Leroy: If you want to increase the cooling of your 8V-92 you
could install a 4" air scoup behind the radiator opening to help
catch the air and redirect it into the radiator. I did this on a 6V-
92. I had it made out of stainless steel it had nice curve to it to
help capture the air. It worked well. Bob
93pt40--Bunker Hill, Illinois....Soon to be back in Jackson,Wy.

wrote:
>
> Your theory may be totally correct.
>
> My understand of cap pressure values, the higher the pressure, the
higher the boiling point. Assuming BB used top quality hoses and I
believe they did I have some trouble differentiating between the bus
and my Cummins SLT 3/4 ton PU, when it comes to cap pressure. My
diesel truck heating system is tied to the cooling system and it has
a factory 15psi cap. My bus has a 13psi cap that I did not install
and over the past 3 years all has been good. The DD service manual
says 7-9 psi. I give up, maybe.
>
> Over the past few months I have been making small changes to the
cooling system in my bus. I am taking chances, testing them on my
bus, in an effort to reduce overall temperatures in the engine,
transmission, retarder and engine oil. I have changed the Alarmstat,
which operates the hydraulic fan to 190 degrees from 195 degrees.
> I will not know the full extent this change until summer, but so
far it is working.
>
> Before I decided to make the change I consulted with DD approved
shops and BB. I was not satisfied with the answers sooooo, I pressed
on.
>
> The DD manual says to be careful not to have cooling system
components operate out of sequence because the result will be
overheating. At this point in my testing I have concluded the
foregoing to mean, the cooling fan, the engine thermostats, and the
alarmstat, primarily because I do not know of any other cooling
affected components other than the cap.
>
> Before I embarked upon my mission, I was told that temperature
cycling was the result of the engine thermostats cycling.
Unfortunately, I cannot force that to happen and I have tried. I
have driven the coach in temperatures of below 32 degrees with the
fan override on and my water temperature gauge stabilizes at about
170 degrees, the engine thermostat value. In other words, it doesn't
move once stabilized, so the engine thermostats are not cycling
(possibly). If they are it is happening so quickly that it does not
register on the temp guage or they partially close and shut down the
water flow to hold the constant temperature. I cannot see them
work. When I turn the fan override off the temperature begins to
cycle off the Alarmstat between 180-190 degrees.
>
> All of this fits the DD published coolant Series 92 publication in
my possession. Why BB dedided on a 195 degree Alarmstat, only BB
knows and they aren't talking, because I have asked. I simply does
not make sense to force the temperatures to the outer limit of DD
specifications, ;and that is what happens in summer. Heat is our
enemy and I have been able to reduce the heat.
>
> Most likely, I will change my cap to 9psi sometime in the summer
and see if that makes any difference. My guess is it will not simply
because keeping the engine cooling system within temperature
specifications precludes any real need for the cap to blow off.
>
> I like my drive train component temps now.
>
> Engine Oil-215
> Water Temp-Cycles between 180-190
> Transmission Temp- 170
> Retarder Temp- 220
> All recorded in flat conditions at cruise speed of 68 mph, pulling
a 20ft trailer w/car.
>
> I do not suggest you try anything unless you fully understand your
system, I'm simply reporting what I did.
> The foregoing presumes that all system components are in proper
working order.
>
> My next project is to install MH's water injection system so when I
climb the mountains next summer I'll have a water flood just in case.
>
> Alright, fire away, I have Redneck engineering paperwork on this
one. LOL lol, lol
>
> Leroy Eckert
> 1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
> Niceville, FL
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Fred Hulse
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 11:44 AM
> Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Coolant Pressure Control Cap
>
>
> My theory about the 7 lb. cap is the coach heating system is tied
into the cooling system and Blue Bird has used that pressure to
protect the other systems in the coach,let alone miles of heater hose!
> Fred & Jeanne Hulse
> Morristown Arizona
> 1997 Wanderlodge WLWB41
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Leroy Eckert]

'
Good idea. I have plenty of room to install a back up distilled water tank for
that purpose just in case. You never know when you might need some help. I
would be easy to do.

Thanks,

Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
Niceville, FL



----- Original Message -----
From: Bob & Carol Howald`
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 9:02 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Coolant Pressure Control Cap




Leroy: I also installed what was or is called a swamp cooler
on the radiator. It took water from the potable water tank and thru a
pump and fittings it sprayed water on the radiator on demand. I had
the control at the driver panel. It had about four or five different
settings that sprayed water at timed rates. I would rate it about 5
on a scale of 1 to 10. I really never used it much. The best
procedure was to turn the fan on before the climb and adjust speed
and rpm with a lower gear and just sit and enjoy the ride up the
pass. One draw back might be that if your using really hard
water that you will get a mineral build up on the fin's of the
radiator rather quickly.(hard to get off).
worked for me..sort-of..??;;;;; Bob 93pt-40
'
>
>
> Leroy: If you want to increase the cooling of your 8V-92 you
> could install a 4" air scoup behind the radiator opening to help
> catch the air and redirect it into the radiator. I did this on a 6V-
> 92. I had it made out of stainless steel it had nice curve to it to
> help capture the air. It worked well. Bob
> 93pt40--Bunker Hill, Illinois....Soon to be back in Jackson,Wy.
>
>
>
> wrote:
> >
> > Your theory may be totally correct.
> >
> > My understand of cap pressure values, the higher the pressure,
the
> higher the boiling point. Assuming BB used top quality hoses and I
> believe they did I have some trouble differentiating between the
bus
> and my Cummins SLT 3/4 ton PU, when it comes to cap pressure. My
> diesel truck heating system is tied to the cooling system and it
has
> a factory 15psi cap. My bus has a 13psi cap that I did not install
> and over the past 3 years all has been good. The DD service manual
> says 7-9 psi. I give up, maybe.
> >
> > Over the past few months I have been making small changes to the
> cooling system in my bus. I am taking chances, testing them on my
> bus, in an effort to reduce overall temperatures in the engine,
> transmission, retarder and engine oil. I have changed the
Alarmstat,
> which operates the hydraulic fan to 190 degrees from 195 degrees.
> > I will not know the full extent this change until summer, but so
> far it is working.
> >
> > Before I decided to make the change I consulted with DD approved
> shops and BB. I was not satisfied with the answers sooooo, I
pressed
> on.
> >
> > The DD manual says to be careful not to have cooling system
> components operate out of sequence because the result will be
> overheating. At this point in my testing I have concluded the
> foregoing to mean, the cooling fan, the engine thermostats, and the
> alarmstat, primarily because I do not know of any other cooling
> affected components other than the cap.
> >
> > Before I embarked upon my mission, I was told that temperature
> cycling was the result of the engine thermostats cycling.
> Unfortunately, I cannot force that to happen and I have tried. I
> have driven the coach in temperatures of below 32 degrees with the
> fan override on and my water temperature gauge stabilizes at about
> 170 degrees, the engine thermostat value. In other words, it
doesn't
> move once stabilized, so the engine thermostats are not cycling
> (possibly). If they are it is happening so quickly that it does
not
> register on the temp guage or they partially close and shut down
the
> water flow to hold the constant temperature. I cannot see them
> work. When I turn the fan override off the temperature begins to
> cycle off the Alarmstat between 180-190 degrees.
> >
> > All of this fits the DD published coolant Series 92 publication
in
> my possession. Why BB dedided on a 195 degree Alarmstat, only BB
> knows and they aren't talking, because I have asked. I simply does
> not make sense to force the temperatures to the outer limit of DD
> specifications, ;and that is what happens in summer. Heat is our
> enemy and I have been able to reduce the heat.
> >
> > Most likely, I will change my cap to 9psi sometime in the summer
> and see if that makes any difference. My guess is it will not
simply
> because keeping the engine cooling system within temperature
> specifications precludes any real need for the cap to blow off.
> >
> > I like my drive train component temps now.
> >
> > Engine Oil-215
> > Water Temp-Cycles between 180-190
> > Transmission Temp- 170
> > Retarder Temp- 220
> > All recorded in flat conditions at cruise speed of 68 mph,
pulling
> a 20ft trailer w/car.
> >
> > I do not suggest you try anything unless you fully understand
your
> system, I'm simply reporting what I did.
> > The foregoing presumes that all system components are in proper
> working order.
> >
> > My next project is to install MH's water injection system so when
I
> climb the mountains next summer I'll have a water flood just in
case.
> >
> > Alright, fire away, I have Redneck engineering paperwork on this
> one. LOL lol, lol
> >
> > Leroy Eckert
> > 1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
> > Niceville, FL
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Fred Hulse
> > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 11:44 AM
> > Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Coolant Pressure Control Cap
> >
> >
> > My theory about the 7 lb. cap is the coach heating system is
tied
> into the cooling system and Blue Bird has used that pressure to
> protect the other systems in the coach,let alone miles of heater
hose!
> > Fred & Jeanne Hulse
> > Morristown Arizona
> > 1997 Wanderlodge WLWB41
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>





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