Power steering modifications 82 FC 35

[davidkerryedwards]

I've almost completed some power steering modifications to my 82 FC 35. I've
posted
some pictures in the photo section. It was leaking when I bought it and an
examination of
the blue box shows it's had a long history of leaks throughout its life. The
last person to
replace the suction hose used metal reinforced hose. Not a good idea since it
is harder to
get a tight seal with a hoseclamp on that kind of hose.
I've added a new reservoir, a cooler and upgraded the hoses. I used high
temperature
hoses. Aeroquip FC 332-10 rated for much higher temperature than the originals.
I added
a new reservoir ($25 on Ebay) from same manufacturer as original. Twice the
capacity,
vented top with dipstick plus a sight glass. The fittings are 1/2 pipe on the
reservoir. On
the original which is still as it came from the factory as far as I know, the
1/2pipe was
bushed down to 3/8 with a 3/8 45 degree brass elbow at the outlet. This
needlessly
restricted the flow thru the outlet. I went to 1/2 pipe for everything. I'd
recommend that
even if you don't change the reservoir, when putting on new hoses, get rid of
that bushing
and the 3/8 fittings. You want full flow as much as possible with no
restrictions. Had to
move the reservoir slightly to the right to get it under the highest part of the
doghouse.

I added a cooler under the first compartment behind the left front wheel. My
power
steering fluid was running way too hot (around 220 degrees) as measured with an
infrared
thermometer. This is hard on everything. So I added the cooler to solve the
problem. It
also helped me in rerouting the return hose which had previously run about 1
inch above
the exhaust portion of the aftermarket turbocharger. Very bad idea. Whoever
installed
the turbo should have moved the hose.
I also sheathed the suction hose in firesleeve from the reservoir to the pump.
The suction
hose runs right in the left frame rail a few inches from the exhaust manifold.
Another less
than ideal situation. The firesleeve should reduce the amount of heat the fluid
picks up on
the way to the pump.
Access to the return hose is through the floor under the steering wheel. Also,
on mine, no
need to remove the battery tray for access from below. There is a sheet metal
back to the
battery tray. Once this is removed, it is not hard to access the return line
from below to
run a new one. You can see the return line on the outside of the outer frame
rail thru the
battery compartment once the sheet metal back is removed.
I ran the return line back along the outer frame with the other wires/hoses to
the cooler
and then from the cooler back on the inside of the inner frame rail to the
reservoir.
Double clamped all hoses and used new barbs where I could. No way that I could
find to
remove the barb on the pump.
I've got a slight leak at a fitting at the cooler so I need to remove the hose
and retighten it
but everthing else seems fine. Had been sitting unstarted since October since I
had
everything apart and couldn't do anything while the Bird was surrounded by
snowdrifts.
Started on 1st compression stroke once I got it back together yesterday.
Power steering seems much better, less noise. I used synthetic blend power
steering fluid
when I put it back together. I think the restriction in the line from the
bushing may have
been starving the pump perhaps.
I'll let you know if everything works well once I get some miles on it.

Kerry
82 Fc 35 Denver

[davidkerryedwards]

Drove it for the first time today since the modifications. When it tested it
prior to
modifications the power steering reservoir was running around 220 degrees after
the
drive. Today it was 114 degrees, a huge improvement. The air temperature was
about 35
degrees lower today than when I tested it prior to modification but the engine
temperature
was the same. So initially, the results are extremely promising. Keeping that
fluid
temperature down is better for the whole power steering system.

Kerry
82 Fc 35
Denver

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "davidkerryedwards"
wrote:
>
> I've almost completed some power steering modifications to my 82 FC 35. I've
posted
> some pictures in the photo section. It was leaking when I bought it and an
examination
of
> the blue box shows it's had a long history of leaks throughout its life. The
last person to
> replace the suction hose used metal reinforced hose. Not a good idea since it
is harder
to
> get a tight seal with a hoseclamp on that kind of hose.
> I've added a new reservoir, a cooler and upgraded the hoses. I used high
temperature
> hoses. Aeroquip FC 332-10 rated for much higher temperature than the
originals. I
added
> a new reservoir ($25 on Ebay) from same manufacturer as original. Twice the
capacity,
> vented top with dipstick plus a sight glass. The fittings are 1/2 pipe on the
reservoir.
On
> the original which is still as it came from the factory as far as I know, the
1/2pipe was
> bushed down to 3/8 with a 3/8 45 degree brass elbow at the outlet. This
needlessly
> restricted the flow thru the outlet. I went to 1/2 pipe for everything. I'd
recommend
that
> even if you don't change the reservoir, when putting on new hoses, get rid of
that
bushing
> and the 3/8 fittings. You want full flow as much as possible with no
restrictions. Had to
> move the reservoir slightly to the right to get it under the highest part of
the doghouse.
>
> I added a cooler under the first compartment behind the left front wheel. My
power
> steering fluid was running way too hot (around 220 degrees) as measured with
an
infrared
> thermometer. This is hard on everything. So I added the cooler to solve the
problem. It
> also helped me in rerouting the return hose which had previously run about 1
inch
above
> the exhaust portion of the aftermarket turbocharger. Very bad idea. Whoever
installed
> the turbo should have moved the hose.
> I also sheathed the suction hose in firesleeve from the reservoir to the pump.
The
suction
> hose runs right in the left frame rail a few inches from the exhaust manifold.
Another
less
> than ideal situation. The firesleeve should reduce the amount of heat the
fluid picks up
on
> the way to the pump.
> Access to the return hose is through the floor under the steering wheel.
Also, on mine,
no
> need to remove the battery tray for access from below. There is a sheet metal
back to
the
> battery tray. Once this is removed, it is not hard to access the return line
from below to
> run a new one. You can see the return line on the outside of the outer frame
rail thru
the
> battery compartment once the sheet metal back is removed.
> I ran the return line back along the outer frame with the other wires/hoses to
the cooler
> and then from the cooler back on the inside of the inner frame rail to the
reservoir.
> Double clamped all hoses and used new barbs where I could. No way that I
could find to
> remove the barb on the pump.
> I've got a slight leak at a fitting at the cooler so I need to remove the hose
and retighten
it
> but everthing else seems fine. Had been sitting unstarted since October since
I had
> everything apart and couldn't do anything while the Bird was surrounded by
snowdrifts.
> Started on 1st compression stroke once I got it back together yesterday.
> Power steering seems much better, less noise. I used synthetic blend power
steering
fluid
> when I put it back together. I think the restriction in the line from the
bushing may have
> been starving the pump perhaps.
> I'll let you know if everything works well once I get some miles on it.
>
> Kerry
> 82 Fc 35 Denver
>