Chassis heat problems

[Don Bradner]

Well, it is back to the drawing board. The valve has been removed and replaced,
and the voltage tested. What I learned:

The valve up front is a normally-open valve, closed by power coming from the
timing circuit. Plus 12 volts is fed down to the valve, then back through
another wire to (somewhere) that gets power to the #12 relay. When the relay is
powered, there is no power to the circulation pump or the Sporlan valve.

So, power on, both valves are closed, one by the presence of power, the other by
the absence of power, and the pump is off.

When the valve was re-installed I left the power connection off, so the valve
was open (bench test had shown it working, and it was left in the open
position). When the key was turned on, the Sporlan opened, and the pump ran
continuously. The pump never faltered, but nothing in the system got even warm
to the touch (outside temp in the 40s, engine about 160).

I pulled the top of the pump off and managed to lose about 4 gallons of coolant
in the process - certainly the supply side of the pump is unobstructed! Replaced
the gasket and reassembled, after ascertaining that the pump runs well and there
is no damage to any of the impellor blades.

Both gate valves are wide open, which I assume is the correct setting (and I
presume they should have been closed before I messed with the pump!)

Looking for new possiblities, if anyone has any ideas.

Don Bradner
90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
Eureka, CA

On 3/15/2008 at 5:52 AM Gregory OConnor wrote:

>If you cant remove the valve maybe try and bypass it to see that
>that is the problem first???? KevinMk did that with a remote air
>regulator or somthing????
>GregoryO'Connor
>94ptRomolandCa
>
>--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
> wrote:
>>
>> My concern is that the front valve may be the plug in the loop, if
>it is not opening. Temperature of the engine is not an issue - I ran
>it at idle today up to about 160 so that I would have it warm enough
>to be sure to feel the heat. All lines stayed cold, including the
>top of the pump, until I allowed the pump to run open via the
>dismantled Sporlan. Only took a couple of quarts of coolant spilled
>to heat up everything through the pump to the valve.
>>
>> On 3/15/2008 at 4:25 AM Gregory OConnor wrote:
>>
>> >Could be the pump works when not held against a closed loop????
>maybe
>> >the return line is simply plugged up. or your fan is staying on,
>and
>> >the detroit isnt getting hot??
>> >
>> >The camera trick is one CurtS taught me to do. I have even taken
>10
>> >meg picks of part labels then was able to read them on the
>computer
>> >screen.
>> >
>> >When you look at all the controls and appliances exposed to the
>> >weather on these rigs it is a wonder that anything works.
>> >
>> >GregoryO'Connor
>> >94ptRomolandCa
>>
>
>
>
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